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TOWNS   of  NEW   ENGLAND 

AND 

(0lti  Cnglantr 

IRELAND  and  SCOTLAND 
Tart  II 


///? 


>. 

^ 

6^3 

O    <U 

o 

is 

TOWNS 

OF 

NEW  ENGLAND 

AND 

©lb  €nglanb, 

IRELAND  and  SCOTLAND 

^  TA  I^T   II  mi 


Connecting   Links    between   Cities   and    Towns 

of  New  England    and   Those  of  the  Same 

Name  in  England,  Ireland  and  Scotland 

Containing  Narratives,  Descriptions, 

and  Many  Views,  some  done 

from  Old  Prints 


Also  much  Matter  pertaining  to 
®i)e  Jf  ounbersi  anb  Settlers;  of  i?ehj  Cnglanb 

and  to  their  Memorials  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic 


Printed  to    Commemorate  The   Tercentenary  of 

THE  LANDING  of  the  PILGRIMS 

ISSUED   BY    THE 

g)tate  Street  ^rusit  Companp 

BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 
MCMXXI 


Copyright  192  i 

BY    THE 

STATE  STREET  TRUST   COMPANY 
BOSTON,  MASS. 


It  was  but  natural  that  the  Lion 
and  the  Unicorn  should  have  been  used 
on  the  Old  State  House  for  decorative  pur- 
poses when  the  building  was  first  erected  before 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.    At  the  time  that 
the  name  of  King  Street  was  changed  to  State  Street, 
the  original  figures  were  destroyed,  being  replaced,  however, 
when  the  building  was  restored  in  1882.    Still  again  there  was 
a  change  due  to  the  fact  that  the  old  wooden  figures  began  to  decay, 
necessitating  the  substitution,  soon  after  1900,  of  the  present  ones,  which 
are  made  of  copper.     The  wooden  Lion  and  Unicorn  now  beautify  a  lawn  in 
Chestnut  Hill,  on  the  outskirts  of  Boston.     The  Lion  and  the  Unicom  are  called 
in  heraldic  terms  "supporters,"  for  the  reason  that  they  are  the  figures  placed  on  either 
side  of  a  coat  of  arms  shield,  suggesting  their  support  of  it.     They  seem  to  have  been  origi- 
nally introduced  by  the  engravers  of  seals  purely  from  an  artistic  point  of  view  to  fill  up  the 
space  between  the  shield  of  arms  and  the  circle  in  which  it  is  usually  set,  but  they  have  nothing 
to  do  with  the  coat  of  arms  itself.     The  Unicorn  is  a  favorite  "supporter"  in  Scottish  heraldry, 
having  first   appeared   about   the  year   1480.     In  1505   it  is   recorded   that   the   Scottish 
Arms  were  supported  by  two  Unicorns.      As  late  as  the  year  1766  the  Unicorn  was 
still  placed  on  the  right,  but  after  the  Union  it  became  the  left  supporter,  the 
Lion  being  the  right  supporter.     The  Unicorn  is,  of  course,  a  fabulous  ani- 
mal.    The  earUest  heraldic  lion  known  is  the  rampant  hon  cf  Flanders, 
which  appeared  in  the  seal  of  Richard  I.     These  two  present  sup- 
porters of  the  shield  of   the  United  Kingdom  were  introduced 
by  King  James  I  of  England  and  VI   of   Scotland  on   his 
accession  to  the  throne  of  England  in  1603  and  hav^e 
remained  unchanged  to  this  day.     Before  this  date, 
however,    supporters    were    constantly    being 
changed.      A   picture   of   the   Old    State 
House,  upon  which  appear  the  Lion 
and  the  Unicom,  is  on  page  39. 


^    UCLA  MAP  LIBRARY 
Rec'd      7  MAR  1973 

No.':  File: 


Edited,  designed  and  printed  by  direction  of 

Walton  Advertising  &"  Printing  Co. 

Boston,  Mass. 


r 
4 

TABLE   OF   CONTENTS  v  .  Q- 


PAGE 

Boston,  Massachusetts 17 

Athol,  Massachusetts 4° 

Attleboro,  Massachusetts 44 

Biddeford,  Maine 5° 

Bramtree,  Massachusetts 52 

Bridgewater,  Massachusetts 55 

Brighton,  Massachusetts 59 

Coventry,  Connecticut 59 

Dover,  Massachusetts 65 

Exeter,  New  Hampshire 69 

Framingham,  Massachusetts 72 

Greenwich,  Connecticut      77 

Haverhill,  Massachusetts 80 

Hull,  Massachusetts 87 

Ipswich,  Massachusetts 89 

Lancaster,  Massachusetts 97 

Lincoln,  Massachusetts 100 

Londonderry,  New  Hampshire 102 

Lynn,  Massachusetts 106 

Maiden,  Massachusetts ii5 

Manchester,  New  Hampshire 118 

Medford,  Massachusetts 123 

Newbury,  Massachusetts 125 

Newcastle,  New  Hampshire i35 

New  London,  Connecticut 138 

Oxford,  Massachusetts 148 

Reading,  Massachusetts 152 

Rowley,  Massachusetts ^55 

Salisbury,  Massachusetts 162 

Sherborn,  Massachusetts 164 

Springfield,  Massachusetts 17° 

Stratford,  Connecticut 176 

Sudbury,  Massachusetts 183 

Taunton,  Massachusetts ^85 

Topsfield,  Massachusetts ^92 

Waltham,  Massachusetts ^94 

Warwick,  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island i97 

Watertown,  Massachusetts 203 

Weymouth,  Massachusetts 205 

Winchester,  Massachusetts 209 

Windsor,  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut 212 

Woburn,  Massachusetts      ^^4 

York,  Maine 218 


ENGLAND, 

showing  by  capital  letters  and  dots  within  the  circles,  location  of  the  English  towns  mentioned  in  Part  I 

and  in  Part  II. 


FOREWORD 

THIS  book,  as  in  the  case  of  Part  I,  has  been  compiled  by  the  State  Street 
Trust  Company  with  the  object  in  view  of  placing  before  the  people  of  New 
England,  in  commemoration  of  the  Tercentenary  of  the  Landing  of  the 
Pilgrims,  information  concerning  those  cities  and  towns  in  New  England  which 
have  been  named  for  places  in  England,  Ireland  and  Scotland.  The  work  en- 
deavors to  relate  the  experiences  of  the  early  settlers,  to  make  clear  the  origin  of 
the  names  of  the  new  communities  and  to  record  the  connecting  links  between 
places  in  the  old  country  and  their  New  England  namesakes.  The  sketches  of  the 
early  history  of  these  cities  and  towns  in  New  England  include  pictures  and  in- 
scriptions of  many  tablets  and  memorials  on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic  which  con- 
nect places  of  the  same  name  in  New  England  and  Great  Britain,  together  with 
many  photographs  and  prints  of  interest. 

The  Trust  Company  has  endeavored  to  include  in  this  volume  the  most  im- 
portant cities  and  towns  in  New  England  which  were  named  after  those  in  England, 
Ireland  and  Scotland  and  which  were  not  included  in  Part  I.  The  places  described 
last  year  were  Plymouth  and  Southampton,  Andover,  Barnstable,  Bath,  Belfast, 
Beverly,  Bristol,  Cambridge,  Chatham,  Chelmsford,  Dartmouth,  New  Bedford 
and  Bedford,  Dedham,  Dorchester,  Dublin,  Falmouth,  Gloucester,  Groton,  Hart- 
ford, Harwich,  Hingham,  Melrose,  Northampton,  Norwich,  Portsmouth  and  Rye, 
Sandwich,  Wareham,  Woodstock,  Worcester  and  Yarmouth. 

There  are  a  few  towns  in  the  New  England  States  which,  for  lack  of  space,  it 
has  been  necessary  to  omit  from  both  Part  I  and  Part  II,  but  we  believe  that  we 
have  described  in  the  two  volumes  most  of  the  important  places  in  New  England 
which  have  connections  with  the  places  in  the  British  Isles  whence  they  derived 
their  names. 

We  have  thought  it  fitting  to  begin  Part  II  with  Boston,  the  other  towns  follow- 
ing alphabetically. 

The  issuance  of  this  book,  which  is  the  seventeenth  annual  publication  of  the 
Company  presenting  a  collection  of  matters  pertaining  to  the  history  of  New 
England,  not  easily  obtainable  in  books  of  reference  now  extant,  is  several  months 


lo  FOREWORD 

ahead  of  the  usual  time  in  order  that  it  may  appear  during  the  season  when  there 
will  be  many  pilgrimages  from  all  parts  of  the  world  to  the  places  in  New  England 
associated  with  the  early  history  of  the  Pilgrims. 

We  repeat  here  that  the  idea  was  suggested  to  us  by  Walter  R.  Whiting,  Esq., 
who  showed  us  several  pamphlets  written  by  Rev.  Louis  C.  Cornish  showing  the 
connecting  links  between  Hingham,  Massachusetts,  and  Hingham,  England. 

The  Company  is  very  grateful  for  the  assistance  given  by  the  Mayors  of 
the  towns  in  the  British  Isles,  heads  of  Museums  and  of  Historical  Societies  who 
contributed  much  valuable  material  but  all  of  whose  names,  unfortunately,  we  do 
not  have. 

The  Trust  Company  wishes  to  give  credit  again  to  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq., 
of  Farnham,  Surrey,  England,  who  gave  such  valuable  assistance  concerning  the 
places  in  Great  Britain  and  who  obtained  most  of  the  pictures  of  points  of  interest 
in  those  towns,  for  without  such  help  as  his  these  two  volumes  could  not  have  been 
compiled. 

The  Trust  Company,  too,  is  indebted  to  the  late  Oscar  Fay  Adams,  who  com- 
piled a  history  of  many  towns  in  Great  Britain  but  who  unfortunately  died  before 
it  could  be  published.  This  material  was  presented  to  us  through  the  kindness  of 
Miss  Abbie  Farwell  Brown  and  Miss  M.  B.  Lazenby.  His  manuscript  was  of  great 
help  in  checking  the  information  concerning  these  towns  across  the  water  and  it  is 
fitting  that  his  work  and  his  name  should  share  in  the  preparation  of  these  two 
publications. 

Thanks  are  due  to  Mayors  of  our  cities.  Selectmen  of  towns,  officials  of  Libraries 
and  Historical  Societies  and  other  residents  of  places  in  New  England  who  have 
forwarded  to  the  Trust  Company  for  examination  letters,  records  (in  many  cases 
original  documents)  and  photographs;  to  these  persons  the  Trust  Company  and 
the  readers  of  this  book  are  especially  indebted.  It  has  been  our  endeavor  to 
remember  all  who  have  assisted  us,  and  we  have  included  these  in  a  list  below. 
There  may  be  others,  however,  who,  through  the  great  volume  of  correspondence, 
may  have  been  overlooked,  and  to  these  persons  the  Trust  Company  offers  both  its 
apologies  and  its  thanks. 

Much  credit  is  due  likewise  to  Perry  Walton,  Esq.,  of  the  Walton  Advertising 
and  Printing  Company,  who  has  assisted  in  compiling  and  arranging  all  our  publica- 
tions for  the  past  sixteen  years,  and  to  his  efficient  staff  which  includes  Josephine 
SulHvan,  Hans  Eberhard,  Mary  N.  Cornell,  Cornelia  Randall,  Ruth  P.  Wedge 
and  William  Bond  Wheelwright.  Thanks  are  also  due  for  the  assistance  given 
by  Mrs.  Louise  Ames  Norman. 

At  the  suggestion  of  a  number  of  readers  of  Part  I  of  this  commemorative 
series,  the  author  of  both  books  has  reluctantly  subscribed  his  name  at  the  end  of 
this  Foreword  and  wishes  at  the  same  time  to  add  that  he  was  assisted  in  their 
preparation  by  Ashton  L.  Carr,  Vice  President  of  the  Trust  Company,  by  Ralph 


FOREWORD  II 

M.  Eastman,  Assistant  to  the  President,  by  Miss  Edith  E.  Olson  of  the  Trust 
Company  staff  and  by  Miss  Florence  H.  Cabot,  now  Mrs.  Herman  H.  Fardelman. 

The  Trust  Company  thanks  the  people  of  New  England  for  the  appreciation 
with  which  Part  I  was  received  and  trusts  this  one,  its  successor,  will  prove  equally 
interesting.  Although  these  books  were  prepared  to  commemorate  the  Tercen- 
tenary of  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  and  are  of  special  interest  to  Americans, 
they  also  appeal  to  the  peoples  of  the  British  Empire.  This  has  been  shown  by 
the  demand  for  Part  I  from  all  parts  of  the  Enghsh-speaking  world,  and  it  is  hoped 
that  these  books  will  cement  a  closer  friendship  between  the  two  nations. 

We  would  hke  again  to  thank  his  Excellency,  Governor  Calvin  Coolidge,  now 
Vice  President  of  the  United  States,  and  his  former  Secretary,  Henry  F.  Long,  Esq., 
and  also  the  many  other  persons  who  helped  us  on  last  year's  book  and  who  were 
thanked  in  the  Foreword  of  Part  I. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  year's  volume  we  are  indebted  especially  to  Hon. 
Andrew  J.  Peters,  Mayor  of  Boston,  and  his  Secretary,  E.  V.  B.  Parke,  Esq.,  who 
helped  us  in  regard  to  Boston.  We  also  wish  to  thank  Rt.  Rev.  Bishop  Lawrence 
for  valuable  help  given  us  in  connection  with  interchanges  between  churches  in  the 
two  countries;  Rev.  WilUam  S.  Key,  formerly  of  Boston,  England;  Charles  F. 
Belden,  Esq.,  Otto  Fleischner,  Esq.,  and  other  officials  and  clerks  of  the  Boston 
Public  Library,  for  untiring  efforts  in  procuring  information  of  value  for  this  book; 
also  Mrs.  Mary  Fifield  King,  Walter  K.  Watkins,  Esq.  and  George  Francis  Dow, 
Esq.,  for  a  number  of  pictures  of  towns  in  Great  Britain. 

The  list  of  those  who  helped  us  on  different  cities  and  towns  is  appended. 

Boston:  Thomas  Tileston  Baldwin,  Abbie  FarweU  Brown,  Rev.  Howard  N.  Brown, 
George  W.  Coleman,  Frederic  H.  Curtiss,  Rev.  William  H.  Dewart,  Henry  H.  Edes,  Rev. 
Prescott  Evarts,  P.  K.  Foley,  J.  Pennington  Gardiner,  Edward  M.  Hartwell,  Rev.  W.  S. 
Key,  Fred  H.  Kimball,  Rt.  Rev.  William  Lawrence,  Rev.  Alexander  Mann,  Robert  Treat 
Paine,  Rev.  Charles  E.  Park,  Charles  F.  Read,  Henry  B.  Sawyer,  Ralph  A.  Stewart, 
Charles  H.  Taylor,  Jr.,  Julius  H.  Tuttle,  Rev.  William  Harman  van  Allen. 

Athol:  Duke  of  AthoU  (Blair  AthoU,  Scotland),  WiUiam  G.  Lord,  Pearl  L.  Mason, 
WiUiam  B.  McSkimmon,  F.  E.  Wing.  Attleboro:  Mrs.  Walter  M.  Kendall,  Walter  0. 
Lochner,  Rev.  Charles  H.  Pennoyer,  Mrs.  Lucinda  F.  Spofiford,  Mrs.  Joseph  L.  Sweet. 

Biddeford:  Walter  H.  Bradley,  Frank  C.  Deering,  Rev.  George  A.  Gordon,  Emma 
Hatch,  E.  L.  Morrill,  Burton  H.  Winslow.  Braintree:  Marion  S.  Arnold,  Mrs.  Carolme 
A.  Bill,  Charles  H.  Taylor,  Jr.     Bridgewater:  Lucia  L.  Christian,  Joshua  E.  Crane. 

Coventry:  William  L.  Higgins,  Mrs.  W.  R.  Thurber. 

Dover:  Clara  P.  Atkmson,  Arthur  G.  Fuller,  C.  H.  Garland,  Corwin  McDowell, 
Augustin  H.  Parker,  Frank  Smith.  .  ,      tj         \r 

Exeter:  Edmund  S.  Boyer,  Miss  Carrie  W.  Byington,  Minnie  T.  Kmght,  Harry  V. 
Lawrence,  Winifred  L.  MacKay,  Dr.  Edward  0.  Otis. 

Framingham:  Nathaniel  L  Bowditch,  Peter  N.  Everett,  John  M.  Merriam. 


12  FOREWORD 

Greenwich:  H.  Ashton  Crosby,  Erwin  Edwards,  Spencer  P.  Mead,  Major  Evelyn 
Wrench,  Dr.  James  F.  Muirhead. 

Haverhill:  PaulE.  Gray,  Daniel M.  Gurteen  (Haverhill,  England),  John  G.  Moulton, 
Leonard' W.  Smith,  C.  S.  Whittier.  Hull:  John  H.  Grout  (American  Consul,  Hull, 
England),  Charles  H,  Pearson,  T.  Sheppard  (Hull,  England). 

Ipswich:  Francis  R.  Appleton,  Joseph  I.  Horton,  Herbert  W.  Mason,  Mrs.  Augustus 
N.  Rantoul,  Augustus  N.  Rantoul,  the  late  T.  Franklin  Waters. 

Lancaster:  Virginia  M.  Keyes,  Mrs.  Nathaniel  Thayer.  Lincoln:  Mrs.  John  P. 
Bowditch,  John  P.  Bowditch,  Moorfield  Storey,  George  G.  Tarbell.  Londonderry: 
A.  E.  Cudworth,  Norreys  Jephson  O'Conor.  Lynn:  John  Albree,  Luther  Atwood,  Major 
Coxon  (Lynn  Regis,  England),  Hon.  Walter  H.  Creamer,  R.  M.  De  Cormis,  Francis 
Gray,  Mrs.  G.  G.  Hammond,  Joseph  F.  Hannan,  B.  N.  Johnson,  Rev.  W.  Appleton 
Lawrence,  Walter  R.  Whiting. 

Malden:  Hon.  Charles  M.  Blodgett,  A.  L.  Clarke  (Maldon,  England),  Dr.  Godfrey 
Ryder,  F.  A.  Shove,  W.  G.  A.  Turner.  Manchester,  New  Hampshire:  E.  Howard 
George,  Alfred  S.  Jewett,  H.  A.  McElwain,  A.  W.  Phinney,  C.  W.  Sutton  (Manchester, 
England),  Miss  F.  Mabel  Winchell.     Medford:  N.  Penrose  Hallowell,  Moses  W.  Mann. 

Newbury:  Miss  Susan  Ilsley  Adams,  Harriette  E.  Jones,  Rev.  Herbert  Edwin  Lom- 
bard, Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse,  Mrs.  F.  S.  Moseley,  J.  B.  Shearer,  Rev.  Arthur  H.  Wright. 
Nevv^castle:  Wallace  Hackett,  WilHam  D.  Turner.  New  London:  M.  M.  Baker,  Miss 
Ehzabeth  Gorton,  P.  Le  Roy  Harwood,  Dr.  J.  F.  Muirhead,  Ernest  E.  Rogers,  Major 
Evelyn  Wrench. 

Oxford:  Everett  Carleton,  William  Arthur  Dupee,  Mrs.  Clara  A.  Fuller,  Dr.  ElHott 
P.  Joslin,  Mrs.  William  B.  Scofield,  Harry  Worcester  Smith,  Benjamin  H.  Stone, 
Stead  W.   Rodgers. 

Reading:  The  late  Solon  Bancroft,  Rev.  J.  J.  Cogan,  Miss  Emma  Florence  Eaton, 
Charles  A.  Loring,  Rev.  Austin  Rice,  Horace  G.  Wadlin.  Rowley:  Charles  F.  Allen, 
Amos  E.  Jewett. 

Salisbury:  Edmund  Chase  Eastman.  Sherborn:  Francis  Bardwell,  Henry  G. 
Vaughan.  Springfield:  W.  F.  Adams,  G.  C.  Baldwin,  Frank  H.  Page.  Stratford: 
Edward  Fox,  Esq.,  J.  P.  (Mayor  of  Stratford-on-Avon,  England),  Miss  Frances  B.  Russell. 
Sudbury:  Mrs.  John  P.  Bowditch,  John  P.  Bowditch,  Rev.  Paul  Revere  Frothingham, 
Frank  F.  Gerry,  J.  V.  Lee,  John  M.  Merriam. 

TXunton:  The  late  Edith  M.  Hodgman,  Frank  Walcott  Hutt,  Edward  Lovering, 
Edward  H.  Temple,  Edwin  A.  Tetlow.     Topsfield:  George  Francis  Dow,  T.  W.  Pierce. 

Waltham:  Thomas  H.  Armstrong,  C.  F.  French,  E.  L.  Sanderson,  Charles  Stone, 
John  H.  Storer,  Rev.  Francis  E.  Webster.  Warwtck:  Herbert  O.  Brigham,  Howard  M. 
Chapin,  H.  R.  Curtis,  Mrs.  H.  W.  Marsh,  H.  W.  Marsh  (Warwick,  England),  Thomas 
S.  Longridge,  Herbert  H.  White.  Watertown:  R.  M.  Saltonstall.  Weymouth:  Judge 
Louis  A.  Cook,  E.  R.  Hastings,  The  Times,  London.  Winchester:  George  H.  Eustis, 
Sinclair  Kennedy,  Librarian  at  Guildhall  Library,  London,  Henry  G.  Lord,  Bowen  Tufts, 
Major  Evelyn  Wrench.  Windsor:  Juha  M.  Clapp,  Gilbert  F.  Davis,  G.  G.  Wilder. 
Woburn:  Judge  Edward  F.  Johnson. 

York:  Mrs.  J.  P.  Bowditch,  A.  M.  Bragdon,  Henry  S.  Burrage,  D.D.  (Historian  of 


FOREWORD  13 

Maine),  Alfred  Johnson,  Edward    C.  Moody,  James  Brown  Thornton,  M.D.,  Sophia 
Turner. 

General:  Rodolphe  L.  Agassiz,  Hon.  Thomas  W.  Bicknell,  Mrs.  Charles  S.  Bird, 
Grace  Blanchard,  Mrs.  AHce  E.  Boynton,  F.  B.  Brightman,  Thomas  G.  Brown,  Howard 
M.  Buck,  Charles  H.  Butler,  Mrs.  George  Leonard  Chaney,  Howard  M.  Chapin,  George 
K.  Clarke,  Luther  Conant,  Rev.  Louis  C.  Cornish,  Mrs.  George  H.  Davis,  Mrs.  Henry 
Dorrance,  Richard  H.  Evans,  Fred  T.  Field,  Redington  Fiske,  George  S.  Godard,  Mrs. 
Albert  L.  Hall,  Henry  M.  Hutchings,  Mrs.  Mmnie  T.  Knight,  Miss  Mabel  E.  Knowlton, 
Willard  P.  Lewis,  C.  D.  Lyons  &  Company,  E.  A.  Marsh,  Louis  L.  Robinson,  Samuel 
Russell,  Robert  B.  Smith,  Louis  E.  Stoddard,  Thomas  Sutton,  J.  B.  Taylor,  Lucien  Thomp- 
son, Hon.  John  J.  Treat,  Walter  K.  Watkins,  George  E.  Watters,  Harold  E.  Watters, 
Miss  Florence  E.  Wheeler,  Elbert  W.  Whitney,  Robert  Whittaker,  Miss  EHzabeth 
Wilkinson. 

In  closing  this  Foreword  we  would  like  to  express  our  belief  that  the  spirit  of  our 
forefathers  so  well  referred  to  in  a  poem  by  John  Pierpont  almost  one  hundred  years 
ago  in  1824,  at  the  PljTnouth  celebration,  wall  always  endure  in  America. 

"The  Pilgrim  Fathers, — where  are  they? 

The  waves  that  brought  them  o'er 
StiU  roll  in  the  bay,  and  throw  their  spray, 

As  they  break  along  the  shore; 
Still  roll  in  the  bay,  as  they  rolled  that  day 

When  the  Mayflower  moored  below. 
When  the  sea  around  was  black  with  storms, 

And  white  the  shore  with  snow. 

The  mists  that  wrapped  the  Pilgrim's  sleep 

Still  brood  upon  the  tide; 
And  the  rocks  yet  keep  their  watch  by  the  deep, 

To  stay  its  waves  of  pride. 
But  the  snow-white  sail  that  he  gave  to  the  gale, 

When  the  heavens  looked  dark,  is  gone ; 
As  an  angel's  wing,  through  an  opening  cloud, 

Is  seen,  and  then  withdrawn. 

The  Pilgrim  exile, — sainted  name! 

The  hill  whose  icy  brow 
Rejoiced,  when  he  came,  in  the  morning's  flame, 

In  the  morning's  flame  burns  now; 
And  the  moon's  cold  light,  as  it  lay  that  night 

On  the  hill-side  and  the  sea, 
StiU  lies  where  he  laid  his  houseless  head; 

But  the  Pilgrim, — where  is  he? 

The  Pilgrim  Fathers  are  at  rest: 

When  Summer  is  throned  on  high. 
And  the  world's  warm  breast  is  in  verdure  dressed, 

Go,  stand  on  the  hill  where  they  lie. 


14  FOREWORD 

The  earliest  ray  of  the  golden  day 

On  that  hallowed  spot  is  cast; 
And  the  evening  sun  as  he  leaves  the  world, 

Looks  kindly  on  that  spot  last. 

The  Pilgrim  spirit  has  not  fled: 

It  walks  in  noon's  broad  light; 
And  it  watches  the  bed  of  the  glorious  dead, 

With  the  holy  stars,  by  night. 
It  watches  the  bed  of  the  brave  who  have  bled, 

And  shall  guard  this  ice-bound  shore 
Till  the  waves  of  the  bay,  where  the  Mayflower  lay. 

Shall  foam  and  freeze  no  more." 

{The  fourth  verse  of  this  ode  was  printed  on  page  2g  of  Part  I.) 

This  poem  was  also  on  the  program  of  the  Tercentennial  Celebration  held  at 
Plymouth,  Massachusetts,  on  December  21,  1920.  On  this  occasion  Governor 
Calvin  Coolidge  of  Massachusetts  sat  in  the  chair  brought  over  by  Governor  Brad- 
ford, which  is  now  owned  by  William  R.  Hedge,  Henry  R.  Hedge  and  their  sister, 
direct  descendants  of  this  early  Governor. 

ALLAN  FORBES, 

President,  State  Street  Trust  Company. 
Boston,  1921. 


On  account  of  the  very  great  interest  that  has  been  expressed  in  this  work, 
both  in  this  country  and  abroad,  arrangements  have  been  made  for  the  publica- 
tion in  book  form  of  this  and  the  earlier  companion  Part. 

The  work  will  be  issued  in  the  early  autumn,  in  two  volumes  substantially 
and  handsomely  bound,  and  will  be  published  by 

G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS 

2  West  45TH  Street,  24  Bedford  Street,  Strand, 

NEW  YORK  CITY.  LONDON. 

The  State  Street  Trust  Company  respectfully  refers  to  Messrs.  Putnam  all 
future  inquiries. 


From  an  engraving  in  the  St.  Bototph  Club,  Boston,  Massachusetts  Kindness  of  the  Governors  of  the  St.  Botolph  Club 

ST.  BOTOLPH'S   CHURCH,  BOSTON,  EXGLAXD 

There  is  also  an  etching  of  this  church  in  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  presented   in  1903  by  William  Har^vood 

of  Boston,  England. 


TOWNS    of   NEW    ENGLAND 

and 

Old  England,  Ireland  and  Scotland 

BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

"St.  Botolph's  Town!     Hither  across  the  plains 
And  fens  of  Lincolnshire,  in  garb  austere, 
There  came  a  Saxon  monk,  and  founded  here 
A  Priory,  pillaged  by  marauding  Danes, 
So  that  thereof  no  vestige  now  remains; 

Only  a  name,  that,  spoken  loud  and  clear, 

And  echoed  in  another  hemisphere, 

Sur\'ives  the  sculptured  walls  and  painted  panes. 

St.  Botolph's  Town!     Far  over  leagues  of  land 

And  leagues  of  sea  looks  forth  its  noble  tower, 

And  far  around  the  chiming  bells  are  heard ; 
So  may  that  sacred  name  forever  stand 

A  landmark,  and  a  symbol  of  the  power 

That  lies  concentred  in  a  single  word." 

T.  BOTOLPH'S  TOWN,  so  well  described  by  Longfellow 
in  these  well-know^n  lines,  and  our  Boston  have  had  many 
interchanges,  one  of  the  most  interesting  being  the  collec- 
tion of  six  seals  of  old  Boston  which  now  hangs  in  the 
Committee  Room  of  the  City  Council  in  our  City  Hall,  a 
present  sent  by  Hon.  Meaburn  Staniland,  Mayor  of  the 
old  tow^n,  at  the  suggestion  of  John  Lewis  Clark,  Esq., 
who  made  a  visit  to  Boston,  England,  in  1849.  Mr.  Clark 
in  a  letter  now  on  file  in  our  City  Hall  gives  an  account  of  this  gift  in  a  commu- 
nication addressed  to  Mayor  John  P.  Bigelow  of  this  city  in  185 1.  The  seals  are 
all  of  the  period  of  Henry  VIII,  when  the  borough  was  incorporated,  and  the 
wooden  frame  was  made  from  one  of  the  original  timbers  of  St.  Botolph's  Church, 
of  which  Rev.  John  Cotton  was  vicar  for  twenty-one  years.  The  frame  bears  the 
following  inscription : — 


i8 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton  Kindness  Hon.  Andrew  J.  Peters,  Mayor  of  Boston,  Massachusetts,  and  E.  V.  B.  Parke,  Esq. 

SMALL  BOX  SENT  IN  1919  TO  HON.  ANDREW  J.  PETERS,  MAYOR  OF  BOSTON,  NEW  ENG- 
LAND, BY  HIS  WORSHIPFUL  A.  COOKE  YARBOROUGH,  MAYOR  OF  OLD   BOSTON 

It  is  made  from  the  railings  that  formed  part  of  the  dock  in  the  old  Guildhall,  where  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
were  tried  in  1607.     The  message  that  came  within  the  box  appears  in  another  illustration. 


TO   THE   CITY   OF   BOSTON,    UNITED   STATES 

FROM 

MEABURN   STANILAND,    ESQUIRE,   MAYOR 

OF   BOSTON,    OLD   ENGLAND,    1849. 

Our  Mayor  gratefully  acknowledged  receipt  of  the  seals  and  at  the  same  time  sent 
some  books  and  reports  of  our  city  to  the  English  city.  Another  interesting  pres- 
ent sent  over  here  in  191 9  to  our  City  Hall  is  an  oak  box  containing  a  scroll  upon 
which  the  Mayor,  Aldermen  and  Burgesses  of  Boston,  England,  congratulate  the 
Mayor  and  Governing  Body  of  our  Boston  on  the  victories  of  the  American  armies 
in  France  and  the  valuable  assistance  given  to  the  Allied  cause  by  the  American 
Navy.  The  EngHsh  officials  also  refer  with  pride  to  the  connection  between  their 
ancient  borough  and  the  capital  of  Massachusetts.  The  plate  on  the  outside  of 
the  box  explains  its  history: — 

To  the  Honourable  Andrew  J.  Peters, 

Mayor  and  to  the  Governing  Body 

of  the  City  of  Boston,  Massachusetts: 
This  box  (which  is  made  from  the  rails  which  formed  a  part  of  the  dock  in 
the  old  Guildhall,  where  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  were  tried  in  the  year  1607) 
with  the  enclosed  address  of  good  fellowship,  is  presented  by  the  Wor- 
shipful the  Mayor  and  Corporation  of  the  Borough  of  Boston,  England. 

A.  Cooke  Yarborough,  Mayor. 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


19 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton 


Kindness  Hon.  Andrew  J.  Peters,  Mayor  oj  Boston,  Massachusetts, 
E.  F.  B.  Parke,  Esq.,  and  E.  M.  Hart-well,  Esq. 


OLD   SEALS  OF   BOSTON,  ENGLAND, 

now  in  the  Committee  Room  of  the  City  Council  in  City  Hall,  Boston,  Massachusetts.  They  are  of 
the  period  of  Henry  VIII  and  were  presented  to  our  city  in  1849  by  Hon.  Meaburn  Staniland,  Mayor 
of  Boston,  England.  The  frame  was  made  from  one  of  the  original  timbers  of  St.  Botolph's  Church, 
Boston,  England. 

Among  other  documents  in  City  Hall  is  a  communication  sent  in  1856  from  old 
Boston  to  our  City  Government  expressing  appreciation  of  the  visit  of  Hon.  Joseph 
Story,  President  of  the  Boston  Common  Council,  who  made  a  visit  to  St.  Botolph's 
Town  the  year  before.  Still  another  document  was  written  in  1865  expressing 
the  sorrow  of  the  people  of  old  Boston  at  the  time  of  the  death  of  Abraham 
Lincoln. 

Another  interchange  of  greetings  occurred  during  the  Mayoralty  of  the  Hon. 
Frederick  O.  Prince  of  our  Boston,  who  invited  the  Mayor  of  the  English  town  to 
be  present  at  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  our  city. 
The  Vicar  of  Boston  at  this  time  wrote: — 

"I  beg  you  to  convey  in  such  way  as  you  deem  most  suitable  my 
most  grateful  acknowledgments  to  those,  who  with  yourself  have  been 
the  cause  of  my  late  invitation,  assuring  them  that  both  as  a  successor 
of  John  Cotton,  one  of  your  honoured  founders,  and  as  an  inhabitant  of 
the  Town  from  which  your  city  takes  its  name,  I  shall  ever  cherish  the 
deepest  interest  in  its  welfare,  both  political  and  religious,  and  desire  the 
blessing  of  Almighty  God  upon  it. 


"    -:..>^' 


i-i     ^^if- 


:>:,._  „  luuUi  to  ntfrr  tu  111?,.— .^^ 


^M-,.. 


n    1  •i(i!H(  .   <!i 


^.•1    ■\rUou,^  on.'   U-   ll,:v   .-.v .(,  .^u  I  .ct    .{    I  I'-V    'Ifc-Jc^ ^ ;.      '      />!  ._ 

;m,^  ,,-'•!  'VM-l   l=,l.,.  H,,^    s<-.    i:.  ,-    lUi  .-■[(<•,    tl.r    an.rfH^uu'  '^ 

of    iL    'flui    .nu-"  I.,;.-,.    CMuu-ruvn.    -vPw..^  tIh-,,,  J.-  iLvV.  CViMfl-nj 

•'t'lSi'     unit    c{  ijCH'i    A^ii-ii-i--  iiun|    iy   <if»f,     Ir   ^'i-mI  on't     fVnru      cuu"'     T,  ? 

wrr.v,„.cMnj   u^ L ^_    .„_„       ^  _        ! 

'^EMt^h'"^      l?^^<nl       If.,-     f,„-,K^.!:.,M    W     flv    t.H-jf,.!.    ^i.>-V,fc,U.,    'Plufu.u/  j        '' 


ya^ffz^-i^^ , ,_ 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton  Kindness  Hon.  Andre^v  J.  Peters,  Mayor  of  Boston,  Massachusetts,  and  E.  F.  B.  Parke,  Esq. 

MESSAGE  FROM  THE  MAYOR  OF  BOSTON,  ENGLAND,  TO   THE  MAYOR  OF  BOSTON, 

MASSACHUSETTS 
It  was  enclosed  in  the  box  shown  in  another  illustration. 


21 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

I  need  hardly  say  that  the  Mother  regards  not  only  with  no  envy  but 
with  honest  pride  of  all  right  minded  parents  the  far  greater  progress 
which  the  daughter  across  the  Atlantic  has  made  and  is  likely  to 
make  ... 

I  have  the  honour  to  remain 

Your  faithful  and  obliged  servant, 

G.  B.  Blenkin,  Vicar  of  Boston.'' 

Soon  after  the  sending  of  the  box  to  City  Hall  our  Public  Library  received  a 
valuable  present  from  St.  Botolph's  Town,  which  was  presented  by  Alfred  J. 
Ogston,  Esq.,  acting  British  Consul  in  Boston,  and  which  was  received  on  behalf 
of  this  city,  by  Hon.  Andrew  J.  Peters,  our  Mayor.  Hon.  George  W.  Coleman, 
President  of  the  City  Council  in  1915,  and  a  member  of  the  Council  in  19 14  and 
1916,  made  a  visit  to  the  old  town  in  19 18  and  while  walking  along  the  river  he 
noticed  part  of  an  ancient  oaken  balustrade  that  once  stood  in  the  Court  Room  of 
the  old  Guildhall  before  which  some  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers,  among  whom  was  Elder 
William  Brewster,  had  appeared  as  prisoners  in  1607.  The  association  of  this 
relic  with  our  city  is  even  more  closely  brought  home  to  us  when  it  is  realized  that 
Richard  Bellingham,  Governor  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony,  held  the  posi- 
tion of  Recorder  of  the  city  of  old  Boston,  doubtless  passing  by  the  railing  many 
times  a  day  during  his  routine  of  business.  Mr,  Coleman  suggested  to  Hon.  A. 
Cooke  Yarborough,  Mayor  of  old  Boston,  that  it  would  be  a  very  fitting  thing  if 
his  town  could  send  the  rail,  which  was  then  being  used  as  a  back-yard  fence  along 
the  river  bank,  to  the  daughter  across  the  Atlantic  and  it  arrived  in  May  of  the 
following  year  and  is  now  one  of  the  most  interesting  relics  owned  by  the  Library, 
standing  on  the  Huntington  Avenue  side  of  the  delivery  room  of  the  central  office 
at  Copley  Square,  the  inscription  on  it  reading: — 

Before  this  railing, 

once  part  of  the  dock 

in  the  Guildhall  of  Boston, 

Lincolnshire, 

stood  on  trial  in  1607 

some  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 


The  gift  of  the  City  of  Boston,  England,  1919. 


Mr.  Ogston  in  presenting  it  said  in  part : — 

"I  have  the  pleasure,  your  Honour,  of  requesting  your  acceptance  of  this  ancient 
railing,  as  a  token  of  the  kindly  and  cordial  feeling  entertained  by  the  City  of  Boston  in 
England  for  the  City  of  Boston  in  New  England,  and  emblematic  of  the  feeling  of  love  and 
esteem  which  exists  between  the  two  nations." 


22 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by 
George  B.  Brayton 


Kindness  Charles  F.  Belden,  Esq., 
and  Otto  Fleischner,  Esq. 


SECTION  OF  RAILING  FROM  THE  GUILD- 
HALL, BOSTON,  ENGLAND, 

once  part  of  the  dock  in  the  Guildhall,  before  which 
some  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  were  tried,  now  an  in- 
teresting relic  in  the  Boston  Pubhc  Library,  Boston, 
Massachusetts.  This  ancient  railing  was  dis- 
covered by  Hon.  George  W.  Coleman,  of  our  city, 
on  a  visit  to  the  mother  town,  and  given  to  our 
Library  by  Hon.  A.  Cooke  Yarborough,  Mayor  of 
old  Boston.  The  presentation,  which  took  place  on 
May  29,  1919,  was  made  by  Alfred  J.  Ogston,  Esq., 
acting  British  Consul  in  Boston,  and  the  relic  ac- 
cepted for  our  City  by  its  Mayor,  Hon.  Andrew 
J.  Peters. 


Mayor  Peters  during  his  address  made 
the  following  remarks: — 

''Standing  here  it  will  serve  as  a  Unk 
between  the  old  days  and  the  new,  mutely 
teaching  the  great  virtue  of  reverence  to 
our  children.  It  will  furnish  a  fresh  bond 
of  attachment  between  ourselves  and  the 
people  of  Boston  in  Lincolnshire.  As  Mayor 
of  the  younger  City  bearing  that  honored 
name,  I  send  back  sympathetic  greetings 
and  warm  appreciation  to  our  kindred  across 
the  ocean  who  have  been  inspired  to  this 
act  of  gracious  courtesy." 

The  First  Church  in  Boston,  on  the 
corner  of  Berkeley  and  Marlborough 
Streets,  contains  so  many  tablets  of  in- 
terest that  they  form  almost  a  history 
in  themselves  of  the  early  days  of  the 
Colony.  The  chief  memorial  is  a  re- 
cumbent statue  of  John  Cotton  which 
was  erected  to  his  memory  by  his  de- 
scendants and  which  was  unveiled  in 
1907.  The  inscription  records  his  birth 
in  Derbyshire,  England,  in  1585,  and  his 
death  in  the  Colony  of  Massachusetts 
Bay  in  1652;  it  also  mentions  that  he 
was  a  fellow  of  Emmanuel  College,  Cam- 
bridge, in  1607,  that  he  was  Vicar  of 
the  Church  of  St.  Botolph,  Boston, 
Lincolnshire,  from  16 12  to  1633,  and 
that  he  was  Teacher  of  the  Boston 
Church  from  1633  to  1652.  The  most 
interesting  feature  of  this  memorial  is 
the  stone  pendant  from  the  east  portal 


of  St.  Botolph's  Church,  which  now 
forms  a  part  of  the  front  of  the  pedestal  upon  which  his  statue  rests.  This 
stone,  which  can  easily  be  identified  in  the  accompanying  cut,  dates  from  the 
beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century  and  doubtless  formed  a  part  of  the  main  en- 
trance during  the  time  Cotton  was  Vicar.  John  Cotton's  body  rests  in  a  big  tomb, 
the  First  Church  Vault,  in  King's  Chapel  Graveyard,  but  no  other  tablet  in  Boston 
commemorates  his  valuable  work  for  the  Colony.  Rev.  Paul  Revere  Frothingham, 
who  is  a  descendant  of  John  Cotton  on  his  mother's  side,  made  the  address  on  the 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


23 


occasion  of  the  dedication  of  this 
monument  and  during  his  address 
referred  to  Cotton's  great  power 
of  application  as  a  student,  evi- 
denced by  a  four-hour  sand  glass 
which  he  turned  over  three  times 
a  day,  whereby  he  figured  his 
working  hours. 

While  on  the  subject  of  Vicar 
Cotton  it  may  be  interesting  to 
mention  that,  a  month  after  sail- 
ing, his  fourth  child  was  born  on 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the 
parents  decided,  therefore,  to  call 
him  "Seaborn,"  presumably  the 
suggestion  having  come  from 
Stephen  Hopkins,  one  of  the  Pil- 
grim Fathers,  who  thirteen  years 
before  had  a  son  born  on  the  out- 
ward voyage  of  the  "Mayflower," 
whom  he  named  "Oceanus." 
John  Cotton's  house  stood  on 
the  upper  part  of  the  present 
site  of  the  Suffolk  Savings  Bank. 

The  people  of  Boston  will 
always  associate  John  Cotton 
with  the  old  town  in  England 
from  which  he  came,  and  they 
will  appreciate  him  as  much  as 
the  inhabitants  of  old  Boston, 
who,  it  is  said,  beheved 


From  a  prim 


Kindntss  Rev.  Charles  E.  Park,  Julius  //.   Tuttle,  Esq., 
and  Henry  H.  Edes ,  Esq. 


MEMORI.\L    TO    JOHN    COTTON    IN    THE    FIRST 
CHURCH,  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 

On  the  pedestal  can  be  seen  an  old  stone  pendant,  dating 
from  the  fourteenth  century,  from  the  east  portal  of  St. 
Botolph's  Church,  Boston,  England,  of  which  Cotton  was 
Vicar  for  twenty-one  years.  Rev.  Paul  Revere  Frothing- 
ham,  a  descendant  of  John  Cotton  on  his  mother's  side, 
made  an  interesting  address  at  the  dedication. 


"The  lantern  of  St.  Botolph's  ceased  to  burn 
When  from  the  portals  of  that  church  he  came 
To  be  a  burning  and  a  shining  light 
Here  in  the  wilderness." 

Another  connecting  link  between  the  two  Bostons  has  been  made  by  the  restora- 
tion of  the  chapel  in  St.  Botolph's,  now  called  Cotton  Chapel,  and  by  a  memorial 
placed  upon  its  walls  to  his  memory,  mainly  through  the  Hberality  of  his  American 
descendants.  Here  is  recorded  a  Latin  inscription  of  his  hfe-work  written  by  Hon. 
Edward  Everett  of  our  city,  whose  wife,  by  the  way,  was  a  descendant  of  John 
Cotton ;  translated  into  EngHsh  it  reads  as  follows : — 


24  BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

"That  here  John  Cotton's  memory  may  survive 
Where  for  so  long  he  laboured  when  alive, 
In  James'  reign — and  Charles's,  ere  it  ceased, — 
A  grave,  skilled,  learned,  earnest  parish  priest; 
Till  from  the  strife  that  tossed  the  Church  of  God 
He  in  a  new  world  sought  a  new  abode, 
To  a  new  England — a  new  Boston — came, 
(That  took  to  honour  him  that  rev'rend  name) 
Fed  the  first  flock  of  Christ  that  gathered  there — 
Till  death  deprived  it  of  its  Shepherd's  care — 
There  well  resolved  all  doubts  of  minds  perplext, 
Whether  with  cares  of  this  world,  or  the  next: 
Two  centuries  five  lustra,  from  the  year 
That  saw  the  exile  leave  his  labours  here. 
His  family,  his  townsmen,  with  delight — 
(Whom  to  the  task  their  English  kin  invite) — 
To  the  fair  fane  he  served  so  well  of  yore. 
His  name,  in  two  worlds  honoured,  thus  restore, 
This  chapel  renovate,  this  tablet  place. 
In  this  the  year  of  man's  recovered  Grace. 
1855" 

The  restoration  of  the  chapel  was  brought  about  chiefly  through  the  help  of  three 
American  citizens,  George  Peabody,  Joshua  Bates  and  Russell  Sturgis,  who  were 
at  that  time  living  in  London.  They  found  that  the  chapel  was  being  used  as  a 
lumber-room  and  that  for  some  time  the  town  fire-engine  had  been  kept  there. 
The  corbels  supporting  the  timber  ceiling  of  Cotton  Chapel  are  carved  with  the 
arms  of  early  colonists  of  New  England. 

The  visitor  to  the  First  Church  in  our  Boston  will  find  tablets  placed  on  its  walls 
to  John  Winthrop,  Thomas  Dudley,  Isaac  Johnson  and  John  Wilson,  all  founders 
of  the  church  and  all  so  well  known  that  they  need  no  description  here.  There  are 
also  other  memorials  to  John  Leverett,  Sir  Henry  Vane,  placed  there  by  one  of 
Vane's  descendants  in  England,  Thomas  Oliver,  Jeremiah  Dummer,  Ezekiel 
Cheever,  John  Davenport,  Simon  and  Anne  Bradstreet  and  Anne  Hutchinson. 
Other  tablets  to  distinguished  citizens  of  this  city  were  erected  later  to  Edward 
Everett,  the  Emersons,  Robert  Treat  Paine,  John  Quincy  Adams,  Rev.  Nathaniel 
L.  Erothingham  and  other  persons  too  numerous  to  mention  here.  A  doorway  has 
also  been  erected  in  the  church  by  the  Colonial  Society  of  Massachusetts  to  the 
memory  of  Governor  Thomas  Hutchinson  "in  grateful  recognition  of  a  long  and 
distinguished  career  of  public  ser\nLce  always  guided  by  a  conscientious  desire  to  be 
loyal  both  to  the  Province  and  to  the  Crown."  The  only  statue  outside  of  the  church 
is  that  of  Governor  John  Winthrop  and  it  is  interesting  to  mention  to  our  readers 
that  a  descendant  of  his  now  lives  in  the  house  directly  opposite  this  Eirst  Church. 

Dr.  Charles  E.  Park,  the  present  minister  of  this  church,  and  Rev.  A.  G.  Peaston, 
of  the  Spain  Lane  Unitarian  Chapel  of  old  Boston,  carried  on  a  correspondence  in 
191 5,  and  parts  of  their  letters  are  here  given: — 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  recent  phot'/^ruph  hy  G.  E.  Hackford.  Boston,  England 


COTTON  CHAPEL    (FORMERLY  CALLED    FOUNDERS   CHAPEL)   IN   ST.   BOTOLPH'S 

CHURCH,  BOSTON,  ENGLAND, 

restored  in  1855  chiefly  through  the  help  of  three  American  citizens  then  living  in  London,  George  Peabody, 
Joshua  Bates  and  Russell  Sturgis.  The  memorial  tablet  to  John  Cotton,  shown  in  another  illustration,  is 
in  this  Chapel. 


"To  THE  Minister  and  Members  or 
THE  First  Church,  Boston,  Mass.  U.S.xA.. 

Dear  Brethren: 

The  celebration  of  a  century  of  peace  between  the  U.S.A.  and  Gt. 
Britain,  which  we  had  hoped  to  commemorate  suitably  this  month, 
affords  us  the  agreeable  privilege  of  greeting  you  with  cordiality  and 
affection.  December  24th,  1814,  will  be  ever  memorable  in  this 
Country,  not  only  for  'ringing  in  the  hundred  years  of  peace,'  but  as  the 
inauguration  of  a  sentiment  of  kinship,  trust  and  good-will,  which  has 
gained  strength  steadily,  and  has  made  a  suggestion  of  armed  conflict 
between  the  two  nations  hterally  unthinkable. 

A.  G.  Peaston,  Minister, 
H.  Barron  Clark,  President, 
F.  KiME,  Secretary." 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS  27 

To  which  Mr,  Park  made  a  reply  which  we  quote  in  part: — 

^'To  THE  Minister  and  Congregation  or  the 
Spain  Lane  Unitarian  Chapel, 
Boston,  Lincolnshire, 

England. 

Dear  Brethren: — 

Your  cordial  communication  having  been  received  and  read  in  Congregation,  we  are 
directed  by  the  First  Church  in  Boston  to  address  you  in  acknowledgment  of  your  letter, 
and  to  assure  you  of  the  Uvely  and  heartfelt  gratification  which  your  friendhness  has 
aroused  in  us. 

We  share  with  you  the  pride  and  pleasure  of  the  thought  that  one  hundred  years  of 
unbroken  peace  have  cemented  the  relations  of  these  two  countries  in  a  union  of  ideals 
and  an  identity  of  sympathies,  which  we  are  emboldened  to  hope  and  believe,  can  never 
again  be  dissolved;  and  these  feelings  we  believe  to  be  by  no  means  peculiar  to  us,  but  to 
be  the  common  property  of  all  true  citizens  of  the  United  States  of  America. 

We  are  deeply  conscious  of  the  significance  of  this  Centennial,  standing,  as  it  does, 
almost  if  not  quite  unique  in  history,  as  the  symbol  of  the  longest  peace  that  has  ever 
existed  between  two  nations  in  such  active  and  constant  intercourse  as  ours;  and  giving 
the  world  a  notable  object  lesson  in  international  comity  and  fellowship.  .  .  . 

The  value  of  our  own  Centennial  is  tragically  accentuated  by  these  momentous  events. 
Our  hopes  and  our  wishes  go  forth  to  you  day  and  night,  that  you  come  to  a  peace,  that 
shall  be  speedy  if  it  may  be,  but  that  shall  be  honorable  at  all  costs.  .  .  . 

On  behalf  of  the  First  Church  in  Boston, 

Charles  E.  Park,  Minister, 
John  W.  Bartol, 

Henry  H.  Edes  for  the  Standing  Committee, 
Jan.  25,  1915.  John  W.  Denny,  Clerks 

The  First  Church  also  sent  over  funds  during  the  war  to  be  used  by  this  church  in 
old  Boston  for  the  relief  of  soldiers'  famihes.  In  1880  Rev.  Dr.  Rufus  Ellis,  min- 
ister of  the  First  Church,  visited  the  old  town  and  brought  back  a  number  of 
presents. 

Another  connecting  link  between  old  Boston  and  this  city  is  a  beautiful  stone 
tracery  of  an  ancient  window  which  was  sent  as  a  present  from  St.  Botolph's  Church 
to  our  Trinity  Church  and  which  is  placed  on  one  side  of  the  cloister  leading  from 
the  Clarendon  Street  entrance.  The  inscription  on  the  plate  nearby  reads  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Part  of  the  original  tracery  from  a  window 

of  the  ancient  Church  of  St.  Botolph,  Boston, 

Lincolnshire,  England,  of  which  John  Cotton 

was  Vicar  for  XXI  years  until  he  came  to 

New  England  in  MDCXXXIH. 

Presented  to  Trinity  Church  by  the 

Reverend  G.  B.  Blenkin,  Vicar  of  St.  Botolph's 

and  placed  here  as  a  precious  memorial  of  the 

Church  of  our  Fathers,  October  MDCCCLXXIX. 

The  fragments  of  this  window  had  been  discarded  in  old  Boston  and  an  American 
visitor,  seeing  them  in  the  corner  of  the  church,  expressed  the  wish  that  they  be  sent 


28 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


over  here  to  Trinity  Church, 
which  was  accomplished  in  the 
year  1879.  There  was  a  friendly 
rivalry  in  our  Boston  as  to 
which  church  should  be  favored 
with  this  gift  from  the  old  city. 
Rev.  Rufus  Ellis,  pastor  of  the 
First  Church,  and,  therefore,  a 
.successor  of  John  Cotton, 
thought  that  his  edifice  was  the 
fitting  place  for  the  tracery  to 
be  installed,  while  Rev.  Phillips 
Brooks  as  rector  of  Trinity 
Church,  the  foremost  Episcopal 
church  of  Boston,  urged  that  the 
gift  was  without  doubt  intended 
for  his  church.  After  several 
pleasant  discussions  it  was  ami- 
cably settled,  and  the  mediaeval 
stone  work  found  a  final  resting- 
place  in  the  cloister  of  Trinity 
Church.  The  Rector  of  Trinity 
at  the  time  of  the  receipt  of  this 
relic  spoke  of  the  great  value 
which  attaches  in  New  England 
to  anything  associated  with  the 
name  of  John  Cotton  and  added : 
''For  ourselves  and  for  the  church 
which  we  represent  we  acknowl- 
edge a  peculiar  gratification  in 
affixing  to  our  new  walls  so  wel- 
come a  reminder  of  our  mother 
country  and  of  our  Mother  Church,  for  whose  prosperity  and  welfare  we  shall 
ever  pray.  .  .  .  The  gift  has  attracted  the  interest  not  only  of  our  own  parishioners, 
but  of  all  our  citizens!" 

Trinity  Church  has  five  pieces  of  communion  silver  given  by  his  "Maj^^.  K. 
George  2"^  by  his  Exc^.  Gov*".  Shirley:  1742,"  and  on  each  one  is  the  English  coat 
of  arms.  There  is  also  in  this  church  a  memorial  to  Rev.  Arthur  Stanley,  Dean  of 
Westminster,  a  great  friend  of  Rev.  Phillips  Brooks,  in  memory  of  the  first  sermon 
he  preached  while  in  America  in  1878.  Rev.  Phillips  Brooks  preached  several  times 
in  St.  Botolph's  Church  and  also  in  Westminster  Abbey,  London.     On  one  occasion 


I'hniiifirupked  by  George  B.  Brayton 

TRACERY  WINDOW  FROM    ST.  BOTOLPH'S  IN  THE 

CLOISTER    OF    TRINITY     CHURCH, 

BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

sent  as  a  present  by  the  Vicar  of  the  English  church.  It  is 
placed  in  the  open  corridor  on  the  Clarendon  Street  side  of 
the  building. 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


29 


when  he  preached  in  St.  Botolph's,  all  the  other 
places  of  worship  in  the  town  were  closed  in 
order  that  their  congregations  might  hear  him. 

King's  Chapel  possessed  for  a  number  of 
years  some  church  silver,  which  Governor 
Hutchinson  exchanged  for  a  new  communion 
service,  the  gift  of  King  George  III,  at  which 
time  he  took  away  the  old  service,  sending 
some  pieces  to  Christ  Church,  Cambridge,  two 
of  which  are  marked,  "The  gift  of  King 
William  and  Queen  Mary  to  ye  Reve'd.  Sam'l 
Myles  for  ye  use  of  their  Maj'ties  Chappell 
in  New  England,  1694."  Other  pieces  were 
sent  to  St.  Paul's  Church,  Newburyport.  King's 
Chapel  was  founded  in  1686  and  the  first 
building  was  the  first  Church  of  England  in 
Boston.  The  corner-stone  of  the  present  build- 
ing was  laid  on  August  11,  1749,  the  architect 
being  Peter  Harrison,  who  was  born  in  Eng- 
land in  1 7 16.  In  191 8  a  tablet  was  placed 
near  the  entrance  of  the  church  in  his  honour 
by  certain  architects  of  Boston.  There  are 
also  many  interesting  tablets  to  the  early  settlers 
and  to  important  members  of  the  congrega- 
tion up  to  the  present  day,  including  such  well- 
known  people  as  OHver  Wendell  Holmes,  Roger 
Wolcott,  Samuel  Appleton,  Charles  P.  Curtis, 
Francis  E.  Foote,  Henry  Wilder  Foote,  Ephraim 
Peabody,  Robert  S.  Peabody,  Thomas  Newton, 
one  of  the  founders  of  the  church,  John  Lowell, 
Kirk  Boott  and  Arthur  T.  Lyman. 

Christ  Church,  which  is  usually  referred  to  as  the  Old  North  Church,  and 
which  is  situated  on  Salem  Street,  once  called  Green  Lane  when  it  was  the  most 
fashionable  thoroughfare  in  Boston,  is  the  possessor  of  two  flagons  bearing  the  royal 
arms  of  King  George  and  among  other  relics  is  the  well-known  "vinegar"  Bible 
also  given  by  this  king. 

The  St.  Botolph  Club  in  our  city  possesses  some  interesting  relics  of  the  mother 
town,  which  are  best  described  by  quoting  from  the  original  records  of  the  Club. 
A  meeting  of  the  members  was  held  on  the  25  th  of  February,  1882,  Francis  Park- 
man,  Esq.,  the  President,  presiding,  at  which  a  letter  was  read  by  the  Secretary, 
parts  of  which  are  here  given : — 


From  a  photograph  Kindness 

Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

MEMORIAL  TABLET  IN   COTTON 

CHAPEL,  ST.  BOTOLPH'S  CHURCH, 

ENGLAND, 

placed  there  in  memory  of  Rev.  John 
Cotton,  by  his  American  descendants 
and  others.  A  Latin  inscription,  written 
by  Hon.  Edward  Everett,  given  in  the 
text  in  EngHsh,  describes  the  placing  of 
this  memorial,  in  the  year  1855. 


3° 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by 
George  B.  Brayton 


Kindness  of  the  Governors 

of  the  St.  Botolph  Club, 

Boston,  Massachusetts 


LOVING  CUP,  FORMERLY  THE  PROPERTY 

OF  THE  CORPORATION  OF  BOSTON, 

ENGLAND, 

presented  to  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  Boston,  Mas- 
sachusetts, by  Rev.  George  E.  Ellis,  whose  nephew, 
Arthur  B.  Ellis,  Esq.,  brought  it  to  this  country. 
It  was  presented  to  the  Club  on  February  25, 
1882,  and  accepted  on  behalf  of  the  Club  by  Francis 
Parkman,  Esq.,  then  President.  The  cup  is  marked 
beneath  the  Borough  Arms,  "Richard  Bell,  Mayor, 
I745-" 


"Dear  Mr.  Parkman: — 

I  herewith — through  you  as  its  Presi- 
dent,— present  to  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  of 
this  City,  a  massive  Silver-Gilt  'Loving 
Cup '  formerly  belonging  to  the  Corporation 
of  our  Mother-town,  Boston,  Lincolnshire, 
England.  The  Cup,  with  other  pieces  of 
Silver-plate  belonging  to  that  Corporation, 
was  sold  by  auction  in  June,  1837,  was  pur- 
chased by  Mr.  Daniel  Jackson,  and  by  him 
bequeathed  to  his  Son,  Mr.  George  Jackson, 
on  whose  death  in  May,  1 881,  it  was  at  the 
disposal  of  his  widow. 

My  nephew,  Mr.  Arthur  B.  Ellis,  being 
in  Boston  last  summer,  and  having  the 
opportunity,  thinking  I  might  wish  to 
possess  the  Cup,  was  allowed  to  bring  it  to 
this  country. 

It  seemed  to  me  that  the  St.  Botolph 
Club  should  fitly  have  the  Cup  in  its  posses- 
sion and  would  value  it  though  it  is  not 
requisite  that  they  should  put  it  to  its  origi- 
nal use.  .  .  . 

George  E.  Ellis." 

On  motion  of  Mr.  Bradford  it  was 

"Voted  that  the  thanks  of  the  Club  be 
tendered  to  the  Rev'd.  Dr.  George  E.  Ellis 
for  his  valuable  gift  of  a  'Loving  Cup,' 
formerly  owned  by  the  Corporation  of  Bos- 
ton, England,  which  is  hereby  gratefully 
accepted  upon  the  conditions  named  in  his 
letter  of  the  22nd  day  of  February,  1882. 

Adjourned,  T.  R.  Sullivan,  Secretary." 


This  cup  is  marked  beneath  the  Borough  Arms,  "Richard  Bell,  Mayor,  1745." 
Three  years  later  the  Club  received  another  valuable  relic  of  old  Boston,  the  gift 
being  made  at  a  special  meeting  of  the  Club  held  on  Monday,  June  22.  The  Presi- 
dent, Francis  Parkman,  Esq.,  called  the  meeting  to  order  and  introduced  to  the 
members  Rev.  William  S.  Key  of  Boston,  England,  who  then  presented  to  the 
Club  on  behalf  of  the  Municipal  Charity  Trustees  of  St.  Botolph's  Town  a  casting, 
or  reproduction,  of  its  Borough  Arms.  On  this  occasion  the  cup  was  filled  and 
passed  round  among  those  present,  who  drank  suitable  toasts  to  the  two  Bostons 
and  to  the  mermaids  that  appear  on  the  shield.  After  an  acceptance  of  the  gift  by 
the  President,  the  following  votes  of  thanks  were  passed  by  the  meeting: — 

"Voted  that  the  cordial  thanks  of  the  St.  Botolph  Club  be  extended 
to  the  Rev.  WiUiam  S.  Key  for  the  kind  efforts  which  he  has  made  in 
securing  this  interesting  gift  for  permanent  exhibition  by  the  Club. 


BOSTON,    MASSACHUSETTS 


31 


Voted  that  we  accept  with  warm  thanks 
the  kind  and  welcome  gift  of  the  Municipal 
Charity  Trustees  of  the  Borough  of  Boston, 
England. 

Voted  that  the  Arms  of  the  Town  of 
St.  Botolph  be  placed  in  our  Club-House  as 
a  memorial  of  Old  Boston  and  a  token  of 
the  cordial  regard  borne  towards  her  by  her 
namesake." 

These  records  are  signed  by  Arthur  B. 
Ellis,  Esq.,  Secretary.  The  discovery 
of  this  relic  and  its  voyage  to  our 
Boston  are  worth  describing.  In  1881 
Rev.  William  -S.  Key  and  two  friends 
of  his,  sons  of  Rev.  Rufus  Ellis,  former 
pastor  of  the  First  Church,  Boston, 
Massachusetts,  while  visiting  the  Town 
Hall  in  old  Boston,  formerly  the  Hall  of 
the  Guild  of  St.  Mary,  where  the  leaders 
of  the  Pilgrim  band  were  confined,  un- 
earthed from  a  pile  of  rubbish  in  the 
basement  the  original  Borough  Arms 
made  of  wood  which  used  to  hang  over 
the  Recorder's  seat  in  the  Hall.  A  year 
later  Mr.  Key  received  an  invitation 
from  his  Worshipful  the  Mayor,  John 
Cabourn  Simonds,  who  for  some  time 
carried  on  an  extensive  business  with 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton  Kindness  nf  thr  (,iu,rnor> 

of  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  Boston,  M.i  luihu^etts 

COAT  OF  ARMS  OF  BOSTON,  ENGLAND 

A  replica  of  the  old  Coat  of  Arms  which  was  dis- 
covered by  Rev.  WiUiam  S.  Key,  in  the  Guildhall 
of  Boston,  England,  where  the  leaders  of  the  Pilgrim 
band  were  tried.  The  original  used  to  hang  over 
the  Recorder's  desk  and  was  unearthed  from  a  pile 
of  rubbish  in  the  basement  of  the  building.  This 
reproduction  was  presented  by  John  Cabourn 
Simonds,  Mayor  of  the  old  town,  the  St.  Botolph 
Club  accepting  it  at  a  meeting  of  the  Club  on  June 
22,  1885.     It  now  hangs  on  the  Club  walls. 


American  firms  in  corn  and  cotton-seed, 

to  attend  a  meeting  of  the  Pilot  Commissioners  to  be  held  in  the  Hall  of  Justice, 
or  Court  Room,  where  Elder  Brewster  and  his  friends  had  been  tried.  The 
people  of  St.  Botolph 's  Town  had  not  known  of  the  existence  of  this  treasure 
and  at  the  meeting  thanked  the  discoverer  and  suggested  that  a  replica  be  made 
in  metal  and  that  it  should  be  presented  to  the  St.  Botolph  Club  in  Boston, 
Massachusetts,  which  organization,  as  the  presiding  officer  expressed  it,  "stands  for 
the  closest  relationship  between  our  own  town  and  its  namesake  beyond  the  Atlan- 
tic." It  was  necessary  to  determine  the  exact  colouring  to  be  used  in  reproducing  the 
various  symbolic  figures  and  this  was  attained  by  a  visit  to  the  Herald's  College  in 
London,  When  finished,  the  Arms  was  exhibited  in  a  window  in  the  market-place 
of  old  Boston,  while  over  the  building  floated  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  the  occasion 
arousing  great  interest.  Upon  its  arrival  at  this  port  the  Custom  House  authori- 
ties were  in  a  quandary  as  to  how  to  classify  it  and  a  charge  would  have  been 


32  BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


®oi?ou0h  >^ip'^   of  lo^ton 

ijic  it  ImoujntUat  this  anrifnt  luuliiiua  wa'i  pmTlia5r6  bij  ifrauk  IBarriscm.(5sqmrp,3.f^.a  rfsiCimt  of  this 
iioiim.frcmi  the  (Soumiors  of  the  ?6ii!iton  (SvmmTnir  §'i'hoiil  jfounDation.anD  bq  him  ronUpyfCi  to  thc/I'^ngoF, 
AlCirrmcu  mi&  ?i3iu"ii«sf5  of  this  IBovciugh.f nv  thric  usf  in  prrprtuitij  anO  through  thr  hbcraliti)  of  thf  inhahitaxits  anD  a 
sub'jtautiol  donation  from  thf  Bootoniau  ^orirtii.l3o!.\tou.iVla'J5arhusett6.t3i.S.  A.a  funb  mao  raisrii  bij  the  ^, 
<llai|ov,  anii  i?xpfn&f&  in  thp  prwcruation  of  the  Itkildinam  rommcmoration  of  the  Eei^n  of  l^is  late  illajestga 

IRinn  ^^;Dluav^  VU.  "  _M 

From  the  Bo<to7iian  Society  Publications  Kindness  C.  F.  Read,  Esq.,  and  Charles  H.  Taylor,  Jr.,  Esq. 

TABLET  IN   GUILDHALL,  BOSTON,  ENGLAND 

recording  the  fact  that  members  of  the  Bostonian  Society,  of  Boston,  Massachusetts,  subscribed  £ioo 

towards  the  restoration  of  this  building. 

levied  had  not  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes,  James  Russell  Lowell  and  Francis  Park- 
man,  President  of  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  persuaded  the  Collector  of  the  Port  to 
release  it.  Both  of  these  presents,  together  with  a  number  of  pictures  of  the  Eng- 
hsh  town,  adorn  the  walls  of  the  St.  Botolph  Club,  which  takes  its  name  from  the 
Patron  Saint  of  the  town.  On  every  seventeenth  of  June  the  Club  has  a  lunch- 
eon to  celebrate  his  birthday.  Members  of  the  Club  sent  funds  some  time  ago  to 
help  defray  expenses  for  repairs  to  St.  Botolph's  Church. 

The  Bostonian  Society,  in  the  Old  State  House,  Boston,  Mass.,  is  proud  of  the 
fact  that  a  tablet  in  the  Guildhall  of  old  Boston  records  that  the  members  of  this 
well-known  society  subscribed  £ioo  in  191 5,  towards  the  restoration  of  this  ancient 
building  and  the  following  letter  of  thanks  was  sent  by  Hon.  James  Eley,  Mayor  of 
Boston,  England,  to  Grenville  H.  Norcross,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Bostonian 
Society: — 

"Your  letter  of  the  22nd  ult.  is  to  hand,  and  I  beg  to  thank  you  for  your  kindly  thought 
of  me.  No  ceremony  with  reference  to  the  preservation  of  the  Guildhall  has  yet  taken 
place.  I  waited  during  last  summer  in  the  hope  that  some  of  your  members  might  be  in 
the  old  country,  and  I  intended  arrangements  whereby  the  completion  of  the  work  and  the 
splendid  generosity  of  the  Bostonian  Society  should  be  recognized  and  placed  on  record. 
However,  I  trust  the  pleasure  is  only  deferred,  and  when  this  terrible  war  is  over,  I  look 
forward  to  something  of  the  kind.  .  .  .  The  country  wall  generally  wait  for  the  victory  and 
deem  no  sacrifice  too  great  to  secure  a  lasting  and  honourable  peace. 

I  am,  Dear  Sir,  very  truly  yours, 

James  Eley." 

The  Bostonian  Society,  which  owns  a  splendid  collection  of  Boston  rehcs  of  the 
old  days,  also  has  on  view  to  the  many  visitors  who  go  there  a  wooden  model  of 
St.  Botolph's  Church  and,  also,  many  attractive  pictures  of  old  Boston.  This 
Society  some  years  ago  sent  to  the  Guildhall  a  large  picture  of  our  Old  State  House. 
While  Hon.  William  Bedford  was  Mayor  of  the  English  Boston,  he  carried  on  an 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


33 


From  a  recent  photograph 


interesting  correspondence  with  the  Bostonian 
Society  and  always  entertained  visitors  from 
this  city.  There  have  been  so  many  visits 
by  our  prominent  citizens  to  the  old  town 
that  it  is  impossible  to  mention  more  than  a 
few.  In  1895,  Hon.  T.  F.  Bayard,  the  first 
Ambassador  to  Great  Britain  from  the  United 
States,  went  to  Boston,  Lincolnshire,  and 
distributed  prizes  at  the  old  grammar  school 
and  while  there  attended  a  banquet  given  in 
his  honour  by  the  Mayor  and  Corporation 
of  the  town.  In  a  speech  Mr.  Bayard  spoke 
as  follows: — 

"This  Boston — this  Boston  of  old  England — 
is  the  mother  and  the  name  giver  of  a  younger 
and  a  stronger  Boston  far  away  across  the  sea. 
And  yet  the  younger  and  the  stronger  Boston, 
the  city  that  holds  perhaps  one  half-million  of 
inhabitants,  owes  so  much,  how  much  cannot  be 
fully  stated  or  measured,  to  the  little  town  of 
twenty  thousand  people  that  preserves  its  exist- 
ence and  holds  its  own  on  this  side  of  the  At- 
lantic." 

In  the  following  year  a  party  of  American 
CongregationaUsts,  chief  of  whom  was  Rev. 
Dr.  Dunning  of  Boston,  landed  in  Plymouth 
and  visited  the  old  town  in  Lincolnshire,  being 
entertained  while  there  by  the  Mayor  and 
other  officials.  Dr.  Dunning  spoke  of  our  city 
and  of  John  Cotton  in  the  following  terms : — 

"Old  Boston  is  our  home,  and  we  feel  that  we  have  come  back  to  the  land  to  which  we 
belong.  It  was  a  Vicar  of  Old  Boston  that  practically  founded  the  city  of  New  Boston. 
I  suppose  we  may  accept  the  opinion  that  the  successors  of  John  Cotton  have  preached  as 
well  as  he  did,  for  we  have  abundant  testimony  that  they  do." 

In  1897  Rt.  Rev.  William  Lawrence,  Bishop  of  Massachusetts,  visited  the  old 

town  and  from  the  pulpit  of  St.  Botolph's  Church  referred  in  these  words  to  the 

ties  that  united  the  two  Bostons: — 

"You  little  realize  what  it  is  for  one  born  in  Boston,  in  the  United  States,  a  citizen  of 
Boston,  the  Bishop  not  only  of  Boston,  but  of  the  State,  of  which  Boston  is  the  capital — 
you  Uttle  realize,  with  what  deep  emotion  he  comes  here  and  looks  in  the  faces  of  you  who 
are  citizens  of  old  Boston,  and  recalls  to  mind  what  the  newer  Boston  owes  to  you,  with 
what  sympathy  it  turns  towards  you,  and  with  what  sincerity  it  tells  you  that  we  are 
brethren — brethren  not  only  in  Christ  and  in  the  Church — but  brethren  in  race,  in  blood, 
in  free  institutions — brethren  as  sons  of  England." 


i 

Kindness 
Jan  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq, 


THE   GUILDHALL,  BOSTON, 
ENGLAND, 

where  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  were  tried.  The 
Bostonian  Society  of  our  Boston  subscribed 
towards  its  restoration  in  19 15  and  a  tablet 
shown  in  another  illustration  records  this 
fact.  The  Boston  Public  Library  is  the  pos- 
sessor of  part  of  the  ancient  raihng  that  came 
from  this  building,  also  shown  in  another  cut. 


34 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph 


Another  visit  was  that  of  Rev.  George  W. 
Shinn,  Rector  of  Grace  Church,  Newton,  who 
journeyed  there  in  1905  to  inspect  the  plan  of 
St.  Botolph's  Church  with  the  idea  that  some 
church  in  this  country  might  copy  the  old 
church  "where  Cotton  served  so  long  and  at 
whose  altars  so  many  of  the  colonists  to 
America  had  worshipped."  In  1909,  on  the 
sexcentenary  of  the  founding  of  St.  Botolph's 
Church,  many  Americans  attended  unofhcially 
the  celebration,  although  the  Mayor  of  our 
city  and  other  distinguished  persons  who  had 
been  invited  were  unable  to  be  present. 

It  has  often  been  supposed  that  our  city 
was  named  by,  or  for,  John  Cotton  but  this  is 
not  so,  as  Cotton  came  to  this  country  three 
years  after  our  city  had  been  changed  from 
Trimountain  to  Boston.  There  have  been 
many  legends  concerning  its  nam.e ;  some  his- 
torians believe  our  Boston  was  so  named  as  a 
compliment  to  Isaac  Johnson  of  old  Boston, 
who  came  here  in  1630;  other  historians  be- 
lieve it  was  so  called  to  encourage  John  Cotton 
to  come  to  this  country  and  assist  the  colony, 
while  Hon.  R.  C.  Winthrop  stated  that  "The 
name  of  Boston  was  especially  dear  to  the 
Massachusetts  colonists  from  its  associations 
with  St.  Botolph's  town  and  this  was  probably 
In  speaking  of  the  early  settlers.  Governor 
Hutchinson  mentioned  that  "Lincolnshire  contributed  greatly  to  the  new  planta- 
tion and  more  of  our  principal  families  derive  their  origin  from  thence  than  from 
any  part  of  England,  unless  the  City  of  London  be  an  exception."  The  writer 
of  "Pilgrim  Fathers  of  New  England"  makes  the  statement  that  "probably 
there  is  no  town  in  England  that  has  sent  forth  so  many  of  its  best  and  worthiest 
citizens  to  the  great  work  of  colonizing  America  than  this  town  of  Boston." 
As  a  proof  of  this  statement,  we  may  mention  the  names  of  some  of  the  early 
settlers  in  our  city  who  lived  in  the  English  Boston  or  nearby:  Isaac  Johnson 
and  John  Humphrey,  brothers-in-law  of  the  third  Earl  of  Lincoln,  who  was  a 
leader  of  the  Puritan  party  and  who  lived  at  Sempringham,  not  far  from  old 
Boston;  Thomas  Dudley  who  was  steward  or  manager  of  the  Earl's  estate 
lived   in  or  near    Boston;    also    Simon    Bradstreet  who  was  a  member  of  his 


Kindness 
Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 


THE  PULPIT  IN  ST.   BOTOLPH'S 
CHURCH,   BOSTON,  ENGLAND, 

from  which  Rev.  John  Cotton  preached  be- 
fore he  came  to  New  England.  He  was  Vicar 
of  this  Enghsh  church  for  twenty-one  years. 
Once  when  Rev.  PhilHps  Brooks  preached 
from  this  pulpit,  all  the  other  churches  in 
old  Boston  were  closed  so  that  the  congrega- 
tions could  listen  to  his  excellent  sermon. 

really  the  reason  for  its  selection." 


BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


35 


household.  To  our  town  also  came  John 
Leverett,  whose  father,  Thomas  Leverett, 
had  been  an  Alderman  of  Boston  in  Lincoln- 
shire; Richard  Bellingham,  who  had  held  the 
position  of  Recorder  there  as  already  men- 
tioned, and  Atherton  Hough,  who  had  been 
Mayor  of  the  city  in  1628.  William  Codding- 
ton,  one  of  the  early  governors  of  Rhode 
Island,  was  born  in  Boston,  England,  in  1601. 
The  English  town,  as  we  have  seen,  furnished, 
therefore,  four  governors  of  Massachusetts 
and  one  of  Rhode  Island. 

Few  places  in  England  possess  a  more 
impressive  history  than  Boston.  Its  records 
go  back  to  the  middle  of  the  seventh  century 
when  Botolf,  a  Saxon  monk,  often  called  "the 
Saint  of  seafaring  men,"  founded  a  monastery 
on  the  site  of  an  inconspicuous  village  called 
Icanhoe  in  654.  The  word  "Boston"  is 
usually  held  to  mean  Botolf 's  ton  (or  town). 
As  early  as  1270  the  form  Botolfston  is  found 
in  an  English  poem  and  in  the  fourteenth 
century  such  names  as  "Botolestone"  and 
" Botolf 's  tune"  occur.  Still  later,  Lambarde, 
about  the  year  1577,  states  that  the  place  was 
then  called  Bostonstow,  though  "commonly 
and  corruptly  called  Boston."  Towards  the 
end  of  the  ninth  century  the  Danes  invaded 
the  place  and  the  followers  of  St.  Botolph  and  his  buildings  were  swept  away.  In 
1309  the  church,  which  tradition  says  was  built  on  wool-packs,  was  rebuilt,  largely 
through  the  efforts  of  Margaret  Tilney,  to  whom  a  memorial  has  been  placed  in  the 
church.  The  tower  which  is  usually  known  as  "Boston  Stump"  can  be  seen  forty 
miles  out  to  sea,  and  the  many  American  visitors  there  are  never  tired  of  speaking 
of  the  impressiveness  of  the  old  church,  with  its  high  tower,  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Witham.  The  church  has  some  peculiar  architectural  features.  It  has  a  narrow 
winding  stone  staircase  composed  of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  steps,  the  exact 
number  of  days  in  a  year;  seven  doors,  being  the  number  of  days  in  a  week;  is  lighted 
by  fifty-two  windows,  the  number  of  weeks  in  a  year.  The  clerestory  roof  is  sup- 
ported on  twelve  massive  stone  columns,  the  number  of  months  in  a  year;  while, 
in  order  to  reach  the  library  located  over  the  South  porch,  which  contains  ofhcial 
relics  of  Rev.  John  Cotton's  family,  among  them  being  the  baptismal  registers  of 


an  enlargement  in  the  St.   Botolph  Clu 
Massachusetts 


Boston, 
Kindness  of  the  Governors  oj  the  St.  Botolph  Club 


FIGURE    OF    ST.    BOTOLPH    ON    ST. 

BOTOLPH'S  CHURCH,  BOSTON, 

ENGLAND 


From  an  old  print  owned  by  Allan  Forbes 

BOSTON,  ENGLAND,  FROM   THE   TOWER  OF  ST.  BOTOLPH'S   CHURCH 


From  an  old  print  engraved  by  j.  IValker  jrom  a  drawing  by  JV.  Brand,  published  lygs,  London 

BOSTON,   ENGLAND 


Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 


BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 


37 


his  children,  the  visitor  has  to 
climb  twenty-four  much  worn 
stone  steps, — the  same  number 
as  the  hours  in  a  day.  To  reach 
the  roof  of  the  chancel  one  must 
climb  sixty  steps,  the  exact  num- 
ber of  minutes  in  an  hour  and 
seconds  in  a  minute.  At  the  left 
as  one  enters  the  door  of  St. 
Botolph's  Church  there  is  a 
heavy  oak  chest,  iron-bound  and 
with  a  heavy  padlock  attached, 
which  is  filled  every  Saturday 
night  with  four-pound  "quar- 
tern" loaves  purchased  out  of 
the  income  derived  from  legacies 
left  by  different  benefactors  who 
made  the  bequests  between  the 
years  1600  and  1755  a. d.  and  on 
Sunday,  at  the  close  of  morning 
service,  the  loaves  are  distributed 
to  a  number  of  deserving  women. 
This  chest  was  discovered  in  the 
belfry  of  the  church  by  Hon. 
Edward  Everett  while  he  was 
Minister  to  England  on  a  trip 
made  to  Boston,  during  which 
he  ascended  the  "Stump,"  or 
tower  of  the  church,  and  espied 
the  chest  from  his  high  position. 
The  Vicar  was  much  surprised 
to  hear  of  his  discovery  and 
immediately  had  it  brought 
down,  thoroughly  overhauled 
and  put  to  its  present  use. 

Boston  is  about  four  miles 
from  the  sea  and  a  lantern  in  the 
top  of  the  tower  formerly  acted 
as  a  guide  to  mariners.  It  was 
this  lamp  in  the  old  tower  that  is 
home  for  the  wilderness  of  New 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  Fred  H.  Kimhall,  Esq. 

STATUE  OF  ANNE  HUTCHINSON  IN  THE    STATE 
HOUSE,  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 

Anne  Hutchinson,  who  was  Anne  Marbury  before  her  mar- 
riage, was  the  daughter  of  a  minister  at  Alford  in  Lincolnshire. 
She  was  the  first  woman  to  be  conspicuously  connected  with 
public  life  and  the  placing  of  her  statue  recently  in  the  State 
Capitol  in  a  sense  marks  the  advent  of  woman  suffrage  in 
Massachusetts.  While  in  our  Boston,  her  opinions  seem  to 
have  been  favored  by  Rev.  John  Cotton. 

said  to  have  ceased  to  burn  when  Cotton  left  his 
England.     Old  Boston  was  once  a  large  seaport 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton 

TABLET  ON  BOSTON  COMMON  RECORDING  ITS  PURCHASE  FROM  WILLIAM  BLACKSTONE, 
FIRST  SETTLER  IN  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 

He  died  in  Attleboro,  Massachusetts,  in  that  part  of  the  city  now  Lonsdale,  Rhode  Island,  a  picture  of  the 
monument  near  his  grave  being  shown  on  page  45. 
This  tablet  stands  near  the  comer  of  Tremont  and  Park  Streets,  the  inscription  reading : — 

In  or  about 

the  year  of  our  Lord 

One  thousand  six  hundred 

thirty  and  four 

the  then  present  inhabitants 

of  sd  Town  of  Boston  of  whom 

the  Honble  John  Winthrop  Esq"" 

Gov"''  of  the  Colony  was  chiefe 

did  treate  and  agree  with 

Mr.  William  Blackstone 

for  the  purchase  of  his 

Estate  and  rights  in  any 

neck  of  Land  called 

Boston 

after  which  purchase  the 

Town  laid  out  a  plan  for 

a  trayning  field  which  ever 

since  and  now  is  used  for 

that  purpose  and  for 

the   feeding  of  cattell 


The  deposition  of  John  Odlin  and  others  concerning 
Common. 


the  sale  of  Blackstone's  land  known  as   Boston 


From  a  photograph  by  George  B.  Bra  ' 

THE   OLD   STATE   HOUSE,   BOSTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

It  stands  at  the  head  of  State  Street,  on  the  site  of  the  original  town-house,  and  has  witnessed  many 
important  historic  events.  The  significance  of  the  Lion  and  the  Unicorn  is  explained  on  the  copyright 
page. 


40  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 

and  in  the  first  part  of  the  fourteenth  century  was  one  of  the  ten  most  important 
ports  of  the  Kingdom,  during  the  reign  of  King  John  even  rivahng  London.  It 
was  made  a  staple  port  in  1369,  being  the  principal  place  in  the  east  of  England 
for  the  export  of  wool  to  Flanders  and  for  the  import  of  woolen  cloth  from  there. 

The  May  Sheep  Fair  is  one  of  the  most  important  yearly  events  held 
in  Boston.  From  early  historic  times  Lincolnshire  has  been  famous  for  the 
number  of  sheep  raised  there  and  for  the  superior  quality  of  the  wool  and 
mutton.  Fabulous  prices  have  been  paid  by  well-known  sheep  herders,  farmers 
and  exporters  for  Lincolnshire  rams  and  ewes,  for  shipment  to  Argentina  and  other 
South  American  countries,  as  well  as  to  AustraHa,  New  Zealand  and  other  parts 
of  the  world,  the  purchase  price  for  one  ram  often  reaching  $5,000.  The  exact 
date  when  the  great  sheep  fair  was  started  is  lost  in  the  mazes  of  early  history, 
but  there  is  a  definite  record  in  the  year  1623,  which  mentions  the  price  of  pens 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  animals  while  on  sale.  The  importance  of  this  fair 
has  steadily  increased  and  at  the  present  time  it  ranks  as  one  of  the  most  important 
in  England,  occasionally  assuming  such  large  proportions  that  at  times  forty 
thousand  sheep  have  been  known  to  change  hands  in  less  than  three  hours.  A 
scene  at  the  fair  is  shown  in  the  frontispiece. 

The  fens  stretched  out  towards  the  sea,  even  after  the  Normans  had  con- 
quered the  territory,  and  it  is  said  that  the  natives  sometimes  went  out  on 
stilts  to  meet  the  foe  in  order  to  be  able  to  retreat  in  safety  across  the  marshes 
to  their  strongholds  after  an  attack.  It  may  be  interesting  to  New  Englanders 
to  know  that  eight  miles  from  the  town  is  a  place  called  "Bunker's  Hill,"  and 
also  that  a  mile  or  so  away  is  a  small  village  called  "New  York"  which 
recalls  the  remark  of  a  New  York  driver  in  "Martin  Chuzzlewit"  who  said 
"it  brought  Old  York  home  to  him  quite  vivid  on  account  of  its  being  so 
exactly  unlike  in  every  respect." 

ATHOL,   MASSACHUSETTS 

THE  Scotch  tartan  of  the  Murray  clan  was  used  in  the  decorations  for  the 
one  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  incorporation  of  the  town  of 
Athol,  Massachusetts,  which  was  named  in  honour  of  Col.  John  Murray 
who  was  the  founder  of  our  town  and  who  gave  it  its  name  for  Blair  Atholl,  his 
native  town  in  Scotland.  At  this  celebration,  which  was  held  in  June  of  the  year 
1 91 2,  the  committee  used  letter  paper  on  which  appeared  in  colours  this  attractive 
tartan.  John  Murray  was  probably  a  distant  relative  of  the  Duke  of  Atholl,  head 
of  the  great  Murray  clan,  but  he  was  not  his  son  as  many  people  have  supposed. 
The  present  Duke,  the  eighth  in  line,  is  a  typical  Highland  Chieftain.  He  served 
in  the  Nile  expedition;  in  the  South  African  War;  commanded  a  Scottish  cavalry 
regiment  in  the  Great  War  and  later  took  part  in  the  fighting  at  Gallipoli.     He  and 


ATHOL,   MASSACHUSETTS 


41 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  F.  E.  Wing.  Esq. 

HIGH    SCHOOL    BUILDING,    ATHOL, 
MASSACHUSETTS, 

showing  the  colours  of  the  Duke  of  AthoU,  of 
Blair  Atholl,  Scotland,  flying  at  half  mast  at 
the  time  of  the  death  of  one  of  the  Dukes  in 
191 7.  The  colours  were  a  present  from  this 
Duke  some  years  before. 


his  family  have  taken  the  greatest  interest 
in  the  Massachusetts  Athol,  which,  by  the 
way,  has  always  been  wrongly  spelled  with 
only  one  "  1. "  The  interchanges  began  in  1 904 
with  an  interesting  correspondence  between 
Lodge  St.  John's  No.  14  of  Dunkeld  (near 
Atholl),  in  Perthshire,  Scotland,  of  which  the 
late  Duke  was  a  member,  and  F.  E.  Wing, 
Esq.,  one  of  Athol 's  foremost  citizens  and 
Worshipful  Master  of  Star  Lodge  in  his  town. 
This  friendship  resulted  during  the  same  year 
in  the  gift  of  a  gavel,  by  the  Duke  of  Atholl, 
to  the  Massachusetts  Lodge,  copied  from  the 
one  used  in  the  Scotch  Lodge  and  made  from 
one  of  the  larch  trees  which  abound  in  the 
Duke's  private  park  and  which  were  planted 
by  the  Duke  himself.  This  gavel  was  pre- 
sented at  one  of  the  meetings  of  the  Lodge 
and  is  still  used  on  all  important  occasions,  the  inscription  thereon  reading  as 

follows: — 

Gavel  made  of  larch  grown  on  the  Atholl  Plantation  Scotland:  pre- 
sented by  John  7th  Duke  of  Atholl  K.  T.  to  the  Star  Lodge  of  Free  and 
Accepted  Masons,  Athol,  Massachusetts,  U.S.A.:  Frank  E.  Wing,  Worship- 
ful Master:  1904. 

During  the  following  year  the  distinguished  Scotchman  was  elected  an  honorary 
member  of  Star  Lodge  and  was  invited  to  visit  the  town  on  several  occasions, 
one  being  the  one  himdred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  Athol.  In  191 1  the  Duke 
sent  Mr.  Wing  a  flag  similar  to  hJs  private  colours  flown  over  his  castle,  the  pattern 
consisting  of  alternate  horizontal  stripes  of  orange  and  black.  It  is  interesting  to 
mention  that  this  flag,  by  order  of  the  Board  of  Selectmen  and  School  Committee, 
was  flown  at  half  mast  from  the  High  School  building  of  our  Athol  when  the  Duke 
died  in  the  year  1917.  At  the  same  time,  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Wing,  the 
Selectmen  sent  the  following  cable  to  the  Duke's  son:  "Town  of  Athol,  Massa- 
chusetts, mourns  death  of  His  Grace,  your  father.  Athol  colors  half  staff  one  week." 
A  reply  cable  in  these  words  was  received  and  entered  upon  the  records  of  Athol: 
"Atholl  men  this  side,  family  and  self,  deeply  touched  that  you  share  in  our  sor- 
row." Cables  were  also  exchanged  in  1914  at  the  time  of  the  Duke's  Jubilee  cele- 
bration of  accession  to  the  title. 

The  Scotch  godmother  of  our  Athol,  a  name  which  is  understood  to  mean 
"pleasant  land,"  is  situated  among  the  hills  of  Perthshire  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Grampian  hills,  the  river  Tay  flowing  through  the  district.     In  the  picturesque 


42 


ATHOL,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  recent  photograph  by  Valentine  6*  Co.,  Dundee,  Scotland  Kindness  Ian  Forbes -Robert  son,  Esq. 

BLAIR  CASTLE,   BLAIR  ATHOLL,   PERTHSHIRE,   SCOTLAND, 

the  residence  of  the  Dukes  of  Atholl.  The  Massachusetts  town  of  Athol  was  named  for  this  Scotch  town  by 
Col.  John  Murray,  who  was  probably  a  distant  relative  of  the  Dukes  of  Atholl,  who  have  always  shown  a 
great  interest  in  the  New  England  town. 


pass  of  Killiecrankie,  nearby,  Claverhouse  fell  in  1689,  though  victorious  over  the 
troops  of  King  WilHam. 

The  Duke  of  Atholl,  grandfather  of  the  present  Duke  and  head  of  the  Murray 
clan,  was  a  great  Scottish  chieftain,  having  the  title  of  Marquess  of  Tullibardine. 
In  1839  for  the  Eglinton  Tournament  he  formed  a  Guard  of  Honour  composed  of 
Atholl  men  in  Highland  uniform  and  armed  with  Lochaber  axes  and  swords,  like 
the  Yeomen  of  the  Guard.  Three  years  later,  on  Queen  Victoria's  first  visit 
to  Scotland,  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  formed  a  Guard  of  Honour  to  her  at 
Dunkeld  and,  in  commemoration  of  the  event,  Her  Majesty  presented  the  Atholl 
Highlanders  with  Colours,  which  was  practically  a  recognition  of  the  body  as  a 
unit,  a  picturesque  rehc  of  bygone  days.  Since  then  they  have  been  armed  with 
rifles.  Drills  are  still  held  for  ceremonial  purposes  and  their  execution  is  said  to 
be  very  fine.  Every  man  of  this  body  who  could  enlist  in  the  Great  War  did  so. 
This  Atholl  "army"  used  to  drill  in  front  of  Blair  Castle  and  is  described  as  speak- 
ing Gaehc  fluently.     It  was  customary  for  it  to  conduct  a  wild  dance  on  driU. 


ATHOL,   MASSACHUSETTS  43 

days,  known  as  the  "Ram's  Reel."     The  thrill  of  the  Atholl  pipes  is  well  described 
in  these  lines  written  by  James  Hogg  of  Perthshire:— 

"A'  the  din  o'  a'  the  drummers 
Canna  rouse  like  Atholl  cummers  [noise  of  the  pipes]. 
When  I'm  dowie,  wet,  or  weary, 
Soon  my  heart  grows  light  and  cheery, 
When  I  hear  the  sprightly  nummers 
O'  my  dear,  my  Atholl  cummers. 
When  the  fickle  lasses  vex  me. 
When  the  cares  o'  life  perplex  me, 
When  I'm  fley'd  wi'  frightfu'  rumors, 
Then  I  cry  for  Atholl  cummers." 

Another  event  of  interest  in  connection  with  this  Scotch  town  was  the  visit  of 
Robert  Bruce  to  Blair  Castle;  his  hosts  enjoyed  his  visit  so  much  and  were  so 
anxious  to  prolong  his  stay,  that  they  sent  a  servant  to  persuade  his  coach- 
man to  remove  a  shoe  from  one  of  the  horses  in  order  to  retard  his  departure. 
At  another  time  King  George  IV  was  a  visitor  to  Scotland;  it  is  said  that  he  ap- 
peared at  a  ball  given  by  the  Duchess  of  Gordon  with  his  shoes  tied  with  silk  rib- 
bons instead  of  the  usual  buckles,  thereby  causing  ruin  to  all  persons  engaged  in 
the  buckle  trade. 

Another  story  is  told  of  two  Scotchmen  who,  having  just  decided  to  fight  a 
duel,  repaired  at  once  to  the  appointed  place.  Upon  reaching  their  destination, 
one  of  them  scribbled  these  words  on  a  card  which  he  handed  to  his  rival:  "Nae th- 
ing should  be  done  in  a  hurry  but  catching  fleas."  The  recipient  of  the  card  burst 
out  laughing  and  the  two  departed  good  friends.  Another  anecdote  is  related  of 
an  old  Scotch  woman,  who,  unfortunately,  had  been  indulging  in  too  much  Hquid 
refreshment.  She  was,  as  a  result,  brought  before  a  magistrate,  who  asked  her  if 
she  knew  where  all  drunkards  go.  "Yes,"  she  replied,  "where  they  get  the  best 
whiskey." 

Colonel  Murray  came  to  America  before  the  Revolution,  setthng  in 
Rutland,  but  when  the  war  broke  out,  his  property  was  seized,  as  he  remained 
loyal  to  the  King.  He  went  to  HaHfax  by  way  of  Boston  with  the  royal  army 
and  became  a  resident  of  St.  John,  New  Brunswick,  where  his  descendants 
still  possess  many  relics  of  his  early  days  in  Athol,  including  the  deeds  to  his 
lands  in  this  town  and  also  in  Rutland  and  Lenox.  There  is  a  portrait  of  him 
in  the  Hazen  family  of  St.  John.  There  was  a  hole  in  this  painting  and  there 
is  a  tradition  in  the  family  that  a  number  of  persons  who  searched  for  the 
Colonel  after  his  flight  from  Massachusetts  became  vexed  because  he  had 
escaped  and  so  pierced  the  canvas  with  their  bayonets,  vowing  they  would  leave 
their  mark  behind  them. 

Athol,  formerly  called  Pequiog,  is  supposed  to  resemble  in  scenery  Blair  Atholl 
and  this  fact  may  have  been  an  added  inducement  to  Colonel  Murray  to  give  his 


44  ATHOL,   MASSACHUSETTS 

new  abode  the  name  of  his  ancestral  home  in  Scotland.  The  township  was  first 
laid  out  in  1732  by  the  General  Court,  the  incorporators  including  the  well-known 
names  of  Oliver,  Lee  and  Lord,  other  early  settlers  being  the  families  of  Field, 
Kendall,  Goddard,  Bancroft,  Fay,  Twichell  and  Wheeler.  Rev.  James  Hum- 
phreys was  the  first  minister  of  the  town  and  he  arrived  on  horseback,  to  assume 
his  new  duties,  with  his  sermons  and  his  goods  in  his  saddle-bags. 


ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS 

A  TTLEBORO,  Massachusetts,  derived  its  name  from  the  market  town 
/\  of  Attleborough,  County  Norfolk,  England,  whence  some  of  the  early 
.X  .\.  inhabitants  of  the  Massachusetts  city  emigrated  to  America,  giving  their 
settlement  this  name  in  remembrance  of  their  native  place.  This  origin  of  the 
name  is  further  confirmed  by  the  fact  that  in  the  English  town  there  is  a  river 
called  Bungay  of  about  the  same  size  as  the  one  of  that  name  in  Attleboro,  Massa- 
chusetts. The  name  of  the  Massachusetts  city  was  formerly  spelled  the  same  as 
the  town  in  England  from  which  it  took  its  name,  but  to  conform,  apparently,  with 
the  American  idea  of  time  saving  and  efficiency  the  final  "ugh"  was  left  off  some 
time  ago. 

The  first  inhabitant  within  the  original  limits  of  Attleboro  was  the  celebrated 
William  Blackstone,  who  was  also  the  first  settler  and  sole  proprietor  of  "  Shawmut," 
now  Boston.  He  was  a  graduate  of  Emmanuel  College,  Cambridge  University, 
and  had  been  a  clergyman  in  England,  emigrating  about  the  year  1625  to  this 
country  that  he  might  enjoy  his  own  religious  opinions  here  unmolested.  He  even 
found  Governor  Winthrop's  colonists  too  mtolerant,  so  he  sought  another  retreat, 
selling  his  right  and  title  to  his  old  home  on  "Blackstone's  Neck,"  as  the  Peninsula 
of  Boston  was  then  called,  to  the  new  inhabitants,  each  one  paying  him  six  shillings 
and  some  of  them  more,  amounting  in  all  to  £30.  With  the  purchase  money  he 
bought  a  "stock  of  cows"  which  he  took  with  him  to  his  new  home  on  the  banks 
of  the  Pawtucket  River,  now  called  Blackstone  River  in  his  honour.  The  Valley 
of  the  Blackstone  has  become  justly  celebrated  as  a  manufacturing  district,  and 
contributes,  by  the  advantages  of  its  water-power,  to  the  wealth  and  industry  of 
New  England.  The  place  where  he  settled  was  within  the  ancient  limits  of  Attle- 
boro, in  that  part  called  "The  Gore,"  now  Cumberland,  Rhode  Island,  where  he 
died  in  1675.  His  house  he  called  "Study  Hall,"  and  the  eminence  on  which  it 
was  built  was  named  "Study  Hill,"  being  so  called  to  this  day.  The  site  of  his 
dwelling  and  grave  is  now  occupied  by  the  Ann  and  Hope  Mill  of  the  Lonsdale 
Company,  there  being  a  monument  in  the  mill  yard  in  line  with  his  grave,  erected 
by  his  descendants  in  1889,  a  picture  of  which  is  shown  on  the  next  page.  Black- 
stone is  best  known  through  his  connection  with  Boston,  though  he  lived  in  the  latter 


ATTLEBORO,  MASSACHUSETTS 


45 


place  but  ten  years  as  compared 
with  forty  years  in  Attleboro. 
He  was  fond  of  study  and  contem- 
plation, and  preached  sometimes 
for  Roger  Williams  at  Providence. 
He  was  also  skillful  in  horticulture 
and  woodcraft,  caring  more  for 
solitude  than  for  society.  The 
Hbrary  of  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
four  volumes  in  his  wilderness 
home  was  remarkable  for  those 
early  days  in  this  country.  He 
was  a  man  of  many  eccentricities 
and  among  other  things  is  recorded 
as  keeping  a  trained  bull  which 
he  is  pictured  as  riding  up  and 
down  the  sandy  shore  of  Charles 
Street  in  Boston.  Later,  after  he 
had  moved  from  the  latter  city, 
he  used  to  visit  his  friends  in 
Providence,  similarly  mounted, 
such  animals  being  used  quite 
frequently  in  those  days  for  carry- 
ing burdens  of  all  kinds. 

The  original  purchaser  of  Attle- 
boro land  was  Captain  Thomas 
Willett,  an  Englishman  who  had 
Hved  with  the  Pilgrims  in  Holland 
and  who  became  the  successor  of 
Miles  Standish  as  the  Commander 
of  the  Military  Company  of  New 
Plymouth.     Captain  Willett  was 

the  best  kind  of  diplomat,  an  able  man  of  justice  who  inspired  confidence  among 
all,  including  the  Indians,  with  whom  he  was  always  on  friendly  terms.  By  authority 
of  the  Court  of  New  Plymouth  in  1666  he  obtained  the  Rehoboth  North  Purchase, 
which  became  Attleboro,  buying  the  land  from  Massasoit's  eldest  son,  Wamsutta, 
who  was  then  the  reigning  sachem  of  Pokanoket.  He  was  honoured  by  selection  as 
organizer  of  the  new  government  after  New  York  had  been  surrendered  by  the 
Dutch,  was  chosen  the  first  English  Mayor  of  the  American  metropolis  and 
re-elected  to  that  position.  He  afterwards  returned  to  Swansea,  near  Attleboro, 
where   he   died  August    11,    1674.     His   great-grandson,    Col.    Marinus  Willett, 


From  a  photograph 

WILLIAM    BLACKSTONE    MEMORIAL    IN    LONS- 
DALE, RHODE  ISLAND, 

formerly  part  of  Attleboro,  Massachusetts,  now  part  of 
Cumberland,  Rhode  Island.  It  is  placed  in  the  yard  of 
the  Ann  and  Hope  Mill  of  the  Lonsdale  Company  in  Hne 
with  his  grave.  The  above  mill  now  occupies  the  site  of 
Blackstone's  home  where  he  spent  forty  years  of  his  life. 
While  he  is  best  known  on  account  of  his  connection  with 
the  early  history  of  Boston,  Blackstone  lived  a  far  greater 
length  of  time  within  the  original  limits  of  Attleboro. 


46 


ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  Rev.  J.  Lee  Mitchell,  Ph.D.,  and  Mrs.  Walter  M.  Kendall 

ST.  MARY'S  CHURCH,  ATTLEBOROUGH,  ENGLAND 

A  stone  which  once  formed  a  capital  in  this  church  was  obtained  through  the  efforts  of  the  late  Major  Everett 
S.  Horton,  and  placed  in  the  ladies'  parlor  of  the  Second  Congregational  Church  of  Attleboro,  Massachusetts. 

a  distinguished  ofificer  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  was  also  a  Mayor  of  New 
York  City. 

The  first  actual  settlement  within  the  bounds  of  the  original  town  of  Attleboro 
was  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Baptist  meeting-house  and  was  begun  by  John 
Woodcock  and  his  sons  soon  after  the  first  division  of  lands.  In  May,  1676,  while 
his  sons  were  at  work  in  a  cornfield  near  the  house,  they  were  surprised  by  Indians, 
and  one  son,  Nathaniel,  was  killed. 

Attleboro  was  incorporated  as  a  township  October  19,  1694,  but  the  first  town 
meeting  on  record  appears  to  have  been  held  in  1696  at  which  time  John 
Woodcock  and  John  Rogers  were  chosen  to  manage  the  affairs  of  the  township, 
other  names  identified  with  the  early  history  of  the  town  being  Daniel  Sheppison, 
John  Callendar,  John  Lane,  George  Robinson,  David  Freeman,  Anthony  Sprague 
and  Daniel  Jenks. 

One  Thomas  Doggett  came  to  this  country  from  Attleborough,  England,  and 
he  is  supposed  to  be  a  brother  of  John,  the  first  ancestor  in  this  country  of  the 
Daggetts  (the  present  way  of  spelling  the  family  name)  of  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut.  This  John  Doggett  came  over  in  Winthrop's  fleet  in  1630.  Another 
early  settler  who  came  from  Attleborough,  England,  was  John  Sutton,  whose 
daughter  Anne  became  the  wife  of  John  Doggett.  Thomas  Mayhew,  who 
was  listed  as  "a  merchant,"  was  born  in  Southampton,  England,  and  was  also 


ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS  47 

one  of  the  early  settlers  of  Attleboro.  That  the  Daggett  family  still  takes  an 
important  part  in  the  activities  of  the  city  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  Mrs. 
Homer  Daggett,  wife  of  a  direct  descendant  of  John  Doggett,  ran  for  election  as 
Mayor  in  1920. 

The  jewelry  industry,  now  the  most  important  in  the  city,  had  its  commence- 
ment in  1780  when  a  Frenchman,  who  was  called  "the  foreigner,"  very  likely  be- 
cause his  real  name  was  too  difficult  of  pronunciation,  began  to  make  jewelry. 
The  first  shop  erected  expressly  for  the  manufacture  of  jewelry,  the  forermmer  of 
over  one  hundred  concerns  of  today,  was  that  of  Col.  Obed  Robinson.  His  partners 
were  Otis  Robinson  and  Milton  Barrows,  the  latter  being  the  great-grandfather  of 
those  now  carrying  on  the  business  of  H.  F.  Barrows  Company.  Other  men 
prominent  in  estabhshing  this  industry  were  Freeman,  Bates,  Simmons,  Dean, 
Bliss,  Sturdy,  Whitney  and  Richards. 

Attleboro  became  a  city  in  1914,  Hon.  Harold  E.  Sweet  being  the  first  Mayor. 

The  original  post-office  is  still  in  existence  and  is  located  in  the  drawing- 
room  of  the  Holman  homestead  on  Pleasant  Street.  The  "post-office"  was 
merely  an  old-fashioned  table  into  the  drawer  of  which  the  stage-coach  driver 
of  long  ago  hastily  dropped  the  town's  letters.  The  residents  walked  to  the 
homestead  or  drove  to  the  door  and  made  their  way  to  the  "post-office  room" 
unheeded.  There  were  no  clerks  nor  locks  and  each  caller  sorted  the  mail  in 
search  of  his  own. 

The  most  tragic  encounter  of  the  whole  Indian  War,  Pierce's  Fight,  took 
place  in  old  Attleboro.  Sixty  Plymouth  colonists  were  surprised  and  almost 
annihilated  on  March  26,  1676,  and  later  the  same  day  the  remainder  were 
massacred  at  the  spot,  a  few  miles  distant,  called  to  the  present  time  "Nine 
Men's  Misery." 

The  first  religious  meetings  on  record  date  back  to  1704  and  the  first  minister 
called  was  in  1707.  The  First  Church  of  Christ,  Congregational,  of  Attleboro,  is 
still  active  at  Oldtown,  and  the  present  pastor,  Rev.  John  Whitehill,  who  is  in  his 
fifty-third  year  of  service  there,  was  born  at  Paisley,  Scotland,  August  11,  1833, 
coming  to  this  country  when  a  child. 

There  have  been  no  official  letters  or  visits  exchanged  between  the  English  town 
and  its  namesake  in  Massachusetts  but  there  is  now  in  the  Second  Congregational 
Church,  Attleboro,  a  stone  which  once  formed  a  capital  in  St.  Mary's  Church, 
Attleborough,  England.  This  was  obtained  at  the  instigation  of  the  late  Major 
Everett  S.  Horton,  who  was  very  much  interested  in  the  erection  of  the  new  Second 
Congregational  Church.  He  conceived  the  idea  of  having  Mr.  Louis  J.  Lamb, 
who  was  about  to  start  on  a  trip  to  England,  obtain  some  sort  of  memento  in  the 
old  town  to  have  a  place  in  the  new  building,  which  was  then  under  construction 
in  Attleboro,  Massachusetts.  Mr.  Lamb  readily  pledged  hearty  co-operation  and 
a  copy  of  the  letter  regarding  the  finding  of  this  stone   now  hangs  in  the  ladies' 


48 


ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS 


parlor  of  the  Second  Congrega- 
tional Church  and  is  interesting 
enough  to  be  repeated  here: — • 

"Royal  Hotel 

Attleborough,  Norfolk,  England 
August  2 2d,  1902 

Mr.  Everett  S.  Horton, 
Attleboro,  Mass.  U.S.A. 

My  dear  Major: 

Have  had  your  commission  to 
find  you  a  stone  in  Attleborough, 
England,  in  mind  ever  since  leaving 
home  in  May  and  as  soon  as  we  ar- 
rived here  today  made  inquiries  for  a 
builder  and  were  introduced  to  Mr. 
John  Harrison,  leading  contractor 
and  builder  in  this  vicinity.  We 
told  him  our  errand — that  we  wanted 
to  secure  if  possible  a  stone  in  some 
way  identified  with  the  Old  Parish 
Church  or  other  public  building  in 
town  to  be  placed  in  a  new  Church 
now  building  in  Attleboro,  Mass., 
U.S.A.  He  was  immediately  inter- 
ested and  said  'A  few  years  since 
while  I  was  employed  in  making  some 
repairs  on  the  old  church,  it  became 
necessary  to  clear  out  a  lot  of  refuse 
stone  and  other  material  which  had 
been  left  under  a  portion  of  the 
church  at  the  time  it  was  "restored" 
about  one  hundred  years  ago.  There 
was  one  piece  so  shapely  and  well 
adapted  to  the  purpose  that  I  saved 
it  and  took  it  home  to  make  a  base  or  pedestal  for  my  flower  vase  in  front  garden  and 
I  should  think  it  would  answer  your  purpose.' 

We  went  to  his  house  and  viewed  the  stone  and  I  assure  you  it  did  not  take  long  to 
secure  it  and  arrange  for  its  shipment  to  you  via  Cunard  Line  from  Liverpool  to  Boston 
and  you  should  receive  it  about  the  middle  of  September. 

We  had  found  just  what  we  wanted — a  good  shaped,  fair  sized  stone  and  withal  with 
a  history — for  the  Old  Parish  Church  is  said  to  be  about  600  years  old  and  as  the  stone 
gives  evidence  that  it  has  been  cut  and  fashioned  something  after  the  style  of  a  capital 
for  a  column,  it  is  probable  that  it  was  originally  part  of  the  ornamental  architecture  of 
the  building.     We  believe  you  and  the  'White  Church'  friends  will  be  pleased  with  it. 

Attleborough,  England,  is  very  unlike  its  younger  namesake  in  Massachusetts  but  it 
is  a  quiet,  thrifty  little  Enghsh  village  with  three  public  houses,  Post-Telegraph  and 
Telephone  office.  Railway  Station,  several  stores  and  the  usual  adjuncts  of  a  trading  centre 
in  rural  England.  The  inhabitants  and  the  homes  give  evidence  that  no  extreme  poverty 
prevails  and  the  few  people  whom  we  have  met  are  very  cordial  and  interested  to  hear 


From  a  photograph 


\ht  i.ll   Ph.D..  and  Mrs. 
II  alter  M.  Kendall 


SECOND    CONGREGATIONAL    CHURCH,    ATTLE- 
BORO, MASSACHUSETTS, 

in  which  there  is  a  stone  from  St.  Mary's  Church,  Attle- 
borough, England,  which  was  obtained  through  the  efforts 
of  the  late  Major  Everett  S.  Horton. 


ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS 


49 


about  the  other  Attleboro  beyond  the  sea.  I 
know  you  would  enjoy  a  visit  here.  Will  tell 
you  more  about  it  on  our  return. 

With  cordial  remembrances  of   our  entire 
party, 

Yours  very  truly, 

Louis  J.  Lamb." 

It  is  interesting  to  record  that  this  letter  is 
framed  in  a  piece  of  wood  which  came  from 
England  as  part  of  the  crate  around  the 
stone.  The  stone  now  occupies  a  niche  at 
the  right  of  the  entrance  of  the  Second  Con- 
gregational Church,  bearing  the  following 
inscription : — 

COURTESY   OF 

MR.  JOHN  HARRISON, 

ATTLEBOROUGH,  NORFOLK,  ENGLAND 

MR.  L.  J.  LAMB, 

ATTLEBOROUGH,  MASSACHUSETTS,  U.S.A. 

PRESENTED   BY  MAJOR   E.  S.  HORTON 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Rev.  J.  Lee  Mitchell, 
Ph.D.,  and  Mrs.  Walter  M.  Kendall 


STONE  IN  SECOND  CONGREGATIONAL 

CHURCH,  ATTLEBORO, 

MASSACHUSETTS, 

formerly  a  capital  in  St.  Mary's  Church, 
Attleborough,  England. 


In  writing  about  this  Attleboro  church, 
it  is  amusing  to  note  that  in  1868  a  clock 
which  struck  every  five  minutes  was  installed 
in  the  vestry,  the  purpose  of  this  being, 
apparently,  to  discourage  any  long  speeches. 

The  late  Major  Horton  exchanged  many  gifts  with  Mrs.  John  Harrison  of  Attle- 
borough, England  (wife  of  the  gentleman  mentioned  in  Mr.  Lamb's  letter,  who 
provided  the  stone  sent  to  Attleboro,  Massachusetts),  sending  her  pictures  of  the 
Massachusetts  city  and  articles  of  jewelry  for  the  manufacture  of  which  our 
Attleboro  is  justly  famous,  receiving  pieces  of  crockery  which  had  been  in  the 
Slade  family  of  Attleborough,  England,  for  many  years,  also  a  sampler  and  a  quilt 
made  by  a  woman  of  that  town  who  had  reached  the  age  of  one  hundred  and  four 
years. 

The  Angle  Tree  Stone  which  was  erected  at  the  time  of  the  settlement  of  a  long 
controversy  in  regard  to  the  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts  Bay  Colonies'  boundary 
line  between  Attleboro,  Dorchester,  Stoughton,  Norton,  Easton  and  Wrentham 
is  of  historic  interest  to  visitors. 

On  January  4,  192 1,  the  Attleboro  Community  Fellowship,  which  takes  a  very 
active  interest  in  the  affairs  of  the  Massachusetts  city,  passed  a  set  of  resolutions 
to  encourage  the  interchange  of  correspondence  between  citizens  of  their  city  and 
Attleborough,  England.  The  reasons  given  in  the  preamble  for  favoring  these 
resolutions  were  that  history  may  and  should  be  made  humanly  interesting  and 
helpful;    that  this  is  a  time  when  New  England  towns  are  making  considerable 


50  ATTLEBORO,   MASSACHUSETTS 

study  of  their  Old  World  pioneer  inheritances,  and  as  the  history  of  the  American 
Attleboro  connects  at  the  beginning  with  Attleborough,  England,  it  is  fitting  that 
communications  be  exchanged  in  order  to  add  to  the  proud  fund  of  historic  data 
already  collected. 

The  town  of  Attleborough,  England,  lies  in  the  southern  part  of  County  Nor- 
folk, and  is  a  pleasant  little  place  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  level  bit  of  country, 
its  most  important  feature  being  St.  Mary's  Church,  which  was  built  centuries 
ago  and  which  contains  some  very  interesting  architectural  features,  the  window 
tracery  being  extremely  beautiful.  Attleborough  shared  with  other  towns  of  the 
county  a  custom  which  allowed  any  person  out  of  a  home  to  seek  refuge  in  the 
church  porch  until  other  lodgings  could  be  found,  showing  that  housing  conditions 
in  the  early  days  sometimes  resembled  the  present  condition  in  New  England. 
In  legendary  history,  St.  Edmund,  King  of  East  Anglia,  is  said  to  have  gone  to 
Attleborough  and  remained  there  an  entire  year,  engaged  in  the  pious  duty  of 
committing  the  psalter  to  memory.  Although  surpassed  in  commercial  pursuits 
by  its  Massachusetts  namesake,  the  town  of  Attleborough  still  has  a  charm  of  its 
own  which  the  younger  place  can  never  hope  to  attain. 


BIDDEFORD,   MAINE 

4  MEMORIAL  tablet  has  been  placed  at  Winter  Harbour,  now  known  as 
/  %  Biddeford  Pool,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Saco  River,  on  the  spot  where  the 
JL  JL  well-known  English  explorer  Captain  Richard  Vines  and  his  adventurous 
crew  of  sixteen  spent  the  winter  of  1 616-17,  even  before  the  settlement  of  Plymouth. 
After  landing  they  proceeded  about  eight  miles  up  the  Saco  River  which  carried 
them  to  the  Great  Falls,  as  they  called  them,  which  now  furnish  power  to  the  cotton 
mills  of  the  Pepperell  Manufacturing  Company  and  the  York  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany, both  well  known  throughout  the  world,  also  to  several  other  thriving 
industries  of  Biddeford,  including  the  Saco-Lowell  machine  shops  which  have  sent 
to  many  foreign  countries  the  most  modern  mill  equipment.  Vines  and  his  men 
returned  to  England  in  the  year  16 17  with  favorable  reports  and  continued  to  make 
voyages  to  this  country  for  a  number  of  years,  transporting  colonists,  so  that  as 
early  as  the  year  1620  there  were  a  number  of  families,  including  that  of  Richard 
Vines,  in  this  very  early  Maine  settlement.  For  his  ser\dces  this  explorer  received 
from  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  a  grant  of  all  the  land  within  the  present  limits  of 
Biddeford,  the  original  deed,  dated  February  12,  1629,  being  now  in  the  possession 
of  the  Maine  Historical  Society. 

Two  earlier  English  explorers  of  this  territory  were  Martin  Pring,  mentioned 
in  Part  I,  and  Captain  George  Weymouth  who,  two  years  later,  in  1605,  took 


BIDDEFORD,   MAINE 


5" 


m 


^ 


possession  of  these  lands  in  the     T 
name  of  King  James  I. 

Biddeford,  Maine,  probably 
owes  its  name  to  John  Parker  and 
others  who  came  from  Bideford, 
England,  about  the  time  of  the 
town  meeting,  November  14, 
1 7 18,  when  the  settlement  on  the 
west  side  of  the  Saco  River  was 
set  off  from  Saco,  on  the  east 
side,  under  the  name  of  Biddeford, 
the  name  being  spelled,  it  will  be 
noticed,  differently  from  that  of 
the  mother  town. 

The  First  Congregational 
Church  of  Biddeford,  Maine,  was 
formed  in  1730,  and  it  is  a  tradi- 
tion among  some  of  the  older 
residents  of  Biddeford  that  the 
good  people  of  Bideford,  Eng- 
land, gave  the  Maine  town  a 
church  bell  which  arrived  in  Bos- 
ton, whereupon  it  is  supposed  to 
have  passed  into  the  hands  of  a 
Boston  church  for  the  reason  that 
the  Biddeford  parish  was  at  that 
time  too  poor  to  pay  freight  on 
it.  Some  believe  it  was  a  chan- 
delier instead  of  a  bell  which  thus 
went  astray. 

The  English  Bideford,  mean- 
ing "by  the  ford,"  like  Biddeford, 
Maine,  is  on  a  river  near  the  sea, 
with  a  long  bridge  uniting  the 
two  parts  of  the  town  similar  to 
the  bridge  between  Biddeford 
and  Saco.  Visitors  from  Bidde- 
ford, Maine,  to  Bideford,  Eng- 
land, also  discover  that  both  have  a  St.  Mary's  Church.  The  English  town  is 
now  much  the  smaller  of  the  two  places,  not  having  grown  like  its  namesake. 
Bideford,  which  received  the  right  to  hold  a  market  in  1271  and  was  made  a  free 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Walter  H.  Bradley,  Esq.,  and 
Burton  H.  fVinslow,  Esq. 


MEMORIAL  TABLET  AT  WINTER  HARBOUR,  NOW 
BIDDEFORD  POOL,  MAINE, 

near  mouth  of  the   Saco  River,   where   Captain  Richard 
Vines,  the  English  explorer,  and  his  adventurous  crew  of 
sixteen  spent  the  winter  of  16 16-17.     Vines  received  a  grant 
of  the  lands  within  the  present  hmits  of  Biddeford. 
The  words  on  the  Tablet  read  as  follows: — 

Richard  Vines,  agent  of  Sir  Ferdinando 
Gorges,  to  experience  and  report  upon  the 
Climate  of  New  England;  visits  the  Indians  in 
their  huts,  and  passes  the  winter  of  1616  at  the 
present  Leighton's  Point,  territory  of 
Biddeford,  while  his  ship  lay  in  the  nearby 
"Winter  Harbor"  until  spring. 


52 


BIDDEFORD,   MAINE 


Kindness  Walter  K.  Watkins,  Esq. 


From  "  The  /Vest  Coast  of  England,"  Pictorial  Guide,  Second  Edition 

BIDEFORD,   ENGLAND 
Biddeford,  Maine,  is  named  for  this  town. 


borough  in  1573,  is  a  seaport  and  market- town  in  Devonshire,  England,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Torridge.  In  the  sixteenth  century  Sir  Richard  Grenville  did 
much  to   stimulate   the    commercial    trade   of   Bideford  with  America. 


BRAINTREE,   MASSACHUSETTS 

BRAINTREE,  first  called  Mt.  Wollaston,  formerly  included  Quincy  and 
Randolph  and  is  one  of  the  oldest  communities  in  the  State.  The  first 
settlement  was  made  on  Black's  Creek  as  early  as  1625,  when  Captain 
Wollaston  and  thirty  of  his  followers  came  over  from  England  and  started  a  plan- 
tation here,  and  a  tablet  has  recently  been  presented  by  the  Quincy  Chapter  of  the 
Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution  to  mark  the  establishment  of  this  early 
trading-post.  It  is  believed  some  of  these  settlers  came  from  Braintree,  England, 
and  therefore  gave  the  town  its  present  name.  The  colony  was  a  failure  owing  to 
the  intrigues  of  Thomas  Morton  of  Clifford's  Inn,  London,  who  became  notorious 
on  account  of  his  gay  May  Day  festival  held  at  Ma-re-mount,  of  which  much  has 


BRAINTREE,   MASSACHUSETTS 


53 


fffs?mm*i>i9mi>  *'~— »E»»^ 


■fON  IN  '3EC 
:-.C,  POSTS  OH 
-    -      f;!M  WOtLASTCfl 
3£RIVEa  (TS  HAME 


ESECTEc  SY 

ABIGAIL  HHILUPS  QUiNCY  CHAPTER 

DAUGliTERS  OF  THE 

AMERICft!)  REVDLUTION 

1820. 


been  written.  What  we  generally 
understand  to  be  the  "Braintree 
Company"  that  came  from  Eng- 
land to  our  Braintree  was  a  group 
of  people  including  James  01m- 
stedd,  J.  Talcott  and  a  Dr.  Good- 
wyn  who  came  over  some  years 
later,  in  1632,  in  the  ship  "Lyon" 
under  the  auspices  of  Thomas 
Hooker  of  Chelmsford,  and  who 
settled  in  our  Cambridge.  Some 
confusion  has  therefore  arisen  as 
to  these  two  groups  of  pioneers. 
The  town  of  Braintree,  at  first 
often  spelled  Braintry,  was  really 
not  permanently  settled  until  1634, 
when  a  number  of  people  came 
over  here  from  the  counties  of 
Devonshire,  Lincolnshire  and 
Essex.  The  town  was  incorporated 
in  1640  and  comprised  the  land 
now  included  within  the  bounds 
of    Quincy,    Braintree,    Randolph 

and  Holbrook,  the  business  center  being  at  Quincy.  Among  those  to  whom  early 
grants  were  given  were  Coddington,  Wilson,  Quincy,  Hutchinson  and  Wheelwright. 
Joseph  Loomys,  or  Lummys,  who  came  from  Braintree,  England,  was  another 
early  settler.  He  was  a  woolen  merchant  and  the  founder  of  the  American  branch 
of  this  family,  the  name  now  being  spelled  Loomis.  Quincy  was  formed  into  a 
separate  township  in  1792,  and  is  known  the  world  over  as  having  been  the  New 
England  home  of  two  Presidents  of  the  United  States. 

The  first  attempt  to  establish  an  industry  at  Braintree  was  made  in  1643  when 
Governor  Winthrop  brought  over  some  workmen  to  start  there  the  manufacture 
of  iron,  among  the  newcomers  being  Lionel  Copeley  from  York  County,  Nicholas 
Bond  and  others.  Lynn,  however,  began  this  industry  before  Braintree  and  was 
evidently  more  successful  if  we  may  judge  from  the  words  of  one  writer  who  said 
that  in  the  latter  town  they  "pounded  out  less  iron  than  they  hammered  out  law 
suits." 

It  may  be  interesting  to  mention  that  Captain  John  Smith  on  his  map  gave 
Quincy  the  name  of  London;  and  the  figures  of  a  castle  and  cathedral  were  annexed 
as  showing  the  prosperity  and  grandeur  to  which  he  believed  the  town  would  attain. 

There  is  also  a  Braintree  in  Vermont. 


Kindness  of  the  Bostoii  i'uA 

TABLET  PLACED  BY  THE  QUINCY  CHAPTER  OF 
THE  DAUGHTERS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  REVO- 
LUTION, IN  QUINCY,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

once  part  of  Braintree,  where  Captain  Wollaston  in  1625 
first  established  a  trading  post  at  Black's  Creek.  From 
him  Wollaston,  near  Quincy  and  Braintree,  received  its 
name. 


^ 


m 


BRAINTREE,   MASSACHUSETTS  55 

The  English  town  of  Braintree  in  Essex  County  was  once  called  "  Branchetreu," 
a  Saxon  name  meaning  "town  near  a  river,"  and  was  once  the  seat  of  the  Bishops 
of  London.     It  bears  evidence  of  having  existed  for  generations.     The  earUest 
part  of  the  town  was  located  on  the  banks  of  Pods  Brook  in  the  vicinity  of  what 
is  now  known  as  Skitt's  ffill;  as  the  settlement  expanded  and  the  Romans  bmlt 
their  great  roads,  the  population  shifted  toward  the  intersection  of  the  two  great 
Roman  highways.     The  annals  of  Braintree  are  rich  in  names  that  have  become 
famous  not  only  in  Britain  but  throughout  the  world;  among  these  are  John  Ray, 
the  naturaUst;  Benjamin  Allen,  surgeon;    Sir  William  Tilbury,  who,  though  once 
a  boot-boy  in  a  shop  near  the  Square,  became  tutor  of  the  children  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Brazil;   and  Samuel  Dale,  author.     Braintree's  taverns  also  have  been  a 
subject  of  considerable  interest,  and  there  are  still  left  a  number  of  them  to  tell  of 
the  coaching  days  long  past;  one  of  the  most  famous  is  "The  George  Inn,"  the 
sign  of  which  stretched  over  the  entire  width  of  New  Street.     This  town,  with 
Colchester,  Dedham  and  several  others,  was  called  one  of  the  "clothmg  towns 
of  England  on  account  of  the  fact  that  the  woolen  cloth  weavers  carried  on  their 
business  there.     Toward  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  hard  times  overtook 
Braintree  and  in  1804  appeared  these  lines:— 

"We  saw  two  large  townships  called  Braintree  and  Becking ^^ 
Where  the  tale  of  distress  was  of  late  years  most  shocking.' 

Silk  mills,  however,  were  erected  there  some  years  later,  and  both  towns  then 

began  to  prosper.  _ 

Little  Square  is  perhaps  the  most  t>Tical  part  of  old  Braintree,  which  contains 
also  many  attractive  and  quaint  streets.  The  parish  church  of  St.  Michael  dates 
back  to  II 99. 

BRIDGEWATER,   MASSACHUSETTS 

ON  the  roll  of  Mayors  and  members  of  Parhament  of  the  town  of  Bridge- 
water  in  Somersetshire,  England,  are  found  the  names  of  Allen,  Bryant, 
Hooper  and  Mitchell,  and  because  these  names  are  familiar  in  the  annals 
of  Bridgewater,  Massachusetts,  it  is  supposed  that  it  was  so  called  for  Enghsh 
Bridgewater  in  honour  of  that  lovely  village  from  which  staunch  Puritans  emigrated 
to  American  shores.  The  town  of  Bridgewater,  Massachusetts,  was  mcorporated 
in  1656  and  at  first  included  territory  now  comprised  by  Brockton  (formerly  North 
Bridgewater),  East  Bridgewater,  West  Bridgewater  and  parts  of  the  towns  of 
Abington  and  Hanson.  The  land  was  originally  a  part  of  what  was  known  as 
"Duxbury  New  Plantation,"  which  Miles  Standish  and  others  m  1645  had  received 
permission  from  the  Old  Colony  Government  to  purchase  from  the  Indians.  Soon 
after  the  purchase,  some  of  the  Duxbury  proprietors,  of  whom  there  were  m  all 


56 


BRIDGEWATER,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Valentine  6*  Co.,  Dundee,  Scotland 

BRIDGEWATER,  ENGLAND 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 


fifty-four,  became  settlers  here,  and  among  the  first  to  be  associated  with  them  was 
Deacon  Samuel  Edson,  of  Salem,  the  owner  of  their  first  mill,  who  became  a  pro- 
prietor and  settled  with  the  Duxbury  men  near  the  Town  River,  where  Tavern 
Bridge  crosses  it.  "And,"  continues  the  chronicler,  "because  this  was  the  richest 
land  in  the  whole  region,  some  of  the  Duxbury  people  who  had  taken  shares  in  the 
purchase  settled  near  him,  about  the  same  time,  on  scattered  farms  from  below 
the  present  village  of  West  Bridgewater  gradually  extending  up  the  river  to  within 
a  mile  of  the  head  of  it  in  Lake  Nippenicket.  One  of  the  first  of  these  was  John 
Howard,  whose  house  was  the  first  tavern — for  more  than  a  century  the  only  tavern 
— in  the  region ;  and  for  a  long  time  the  bridge  nearby  was  the  only  bridge  over  the 
river.  This  was,  therefore,  the  center  to  which  all  the  primitive  paths  converged — 
one  from  the  Massachusetts  Bay  towns  on  the  north,  known  as  'the  Bay  path;' 
two  others  to  the  southeast  along  the  river  on  opposite  sides  of  it,  through  the 
wilderness  which  is  now  Bridgewater,  on  the  way  to  Plymouth;  and  others  through 
the  woods  north  and  south  of  Lake  Nippenicket  to  Taunton  on  the  southwest, 
where  the  first  settlers  went  to  trade  and  carried  grist  on  foot." 

The  Duxbury  settlers,  who  in  165 1  to  1656  founded  what  is  now  West  Bridge- 
water,  in  1662  to  1665  settled  the  land  covered  by  the  present  Bridgewater,  and 
among  the  early  farms  were  those  of  the  Leonards,  Washburns  and  Edsons.     Until 


BRIDGEWATER,   MASSACHUSETTS  57 

1822  the  town  meetings  were  held  in  West  Bridgewater  and  for  more  than  half  a 
century  the  church  services  were  conducted  in  the  same  place. 

The  Enghsh  seaport  of  Bridgewater  lies  in  a  romantic  and  historic  part  of  Somer- 
setshire where  tales  of  King  Alfred  are  still  told,  and  where,  six  miles  distant,  the 
noble  Saxon  king  in  878  took  refuge  from  the  Danes  encamped  near  the  town. 
This  county,  according  to  tradition,  also  witnessed  King  Arthur's  desperate 
encounters  with  the  Saxon  hordes  who  invaded  Britain  and  who  were  met  by 
this  famous  king  in  that  great  battle  in  the  West.  The  town  itself  grew  up 
around  the  ford,  which  appears  to  have  been  the  only  one  across  the  river  Parret, 
as  all  roads  led  to  it.  "The  ford,"  says  the  historian,  "gave  the  name  of  Brugie, 
or  bridge,  to  the  village  in  Saxon  times.  When  William  the  Conqueror,  after  the 
year  1066,  parcelled  England  with  his  Norman  barons,  Brugie  and  the  vicinity  were 
given  to  a  Baron  Walter  and  the  place  began  to  be  known  as  Brugie- Walter,  or 
Walter's  Bridge,  which  finally  became  Bridgewater." 

In  1649  when  Miles  Standish  and  others  purchased  the  "Duxbury  New  Plan- 
tation" in  America,  the  mother  town  was  one  of  the  most  important  places  in 
southwestern  England  and  in  that  year  Cromwell's  army  attacked  the  town  and 
castle  which  surrendered  with  sixteen  hundred  officers  and  men.  Portions  of  the 
old  walls  of  the  town  and  castle  were  standing  until  a  century  past.  Two  hundred 
years  after  Cromwell  assaulted  and  conquered  Bridgewater  and  after  Miles  Stan- 
dish  had  made  his  valuable  purchase  of  New  England  territory,  representative  citizens 
of  Bridgewater,  England,  sent  a  letter  dated  September  10,  1846,  to  the  town  of 
Bridgewater,  Massachusetts.  Correspondence  ensued  which  made  it  apparent 
that  the  English  town  presented  to  Parliament  the  first  petition  against  the  slave- 
trade,  with  successful  results.  In  these  letters  appeared  names  common  to  both 
towns.  Certain  books  and  maps  were  sent  to  England  with  a  letter  from  our 
Bridgewater  which  was  drafted  by  Rev.  Paul  Couch  and  Hon.  Jesse  Perkins  of  North 
Bridgewater,  Rev.  Darius  Forbes  and  Hon.  John  E.  Howard  of  West  Bridgewater, 
Rev.  Baalis  Sanford  and  Rev.  Nathaniel  Whitman  of  East  Bridgewater  and  Rev. 
David  Brigham  and  Rev.  Claudius  Bradford  of  Bridgewater.  Hon.  John  Reed 
also  served  on  the  committee.  There  are  Bridgewaters  also  in  Maine,  New  Hamp- 
shire, Vermont  and  Connecticut. 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton  from  a  very  old  print  by  G.  Atkinson 

BRIGHTON,  ENGLAND, 
showing  in  the  distance  the  Chain  Pier. 


Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Mrs.  Mary  Fifield  King 

A  RECENT  VIEW  OF  BRIGHTON,  ENGLAND 


59 


BRIGHTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

THE  ancestors  of  several  of  the  first  settlers  of  Brighton,  Massachusetts,  came 
from  the  vicinity  of  the  English  Brighton,  called  in  early  days  Bristelmestune, 
Bruyton  and  later  Brighthelmstone,  named  from  Brighthelm,  an  Anglo- 
Saxon  bishop  of  the  tenth  century.  It  is  fair,  therefore,  to  suppose  that  our  Brighton, 
incorporated  in  1807  and  now  a  part  of  Boston,  was  named  for  the  fashionable 
watering  place  in  England  frequented  by  King  Edward  VII,  Queen  Victoria  and  many 
other  royal  persons,  as  well  as  by  legions  of  "trippers"  during  the  summer  season. 
The  Royal  Pavilion,  built  by  King  George  IV  as  a  maritime  residence  when  he 
was  Prince  of  Wales,  is  undoubtedly  the  most  interesting  feature  of  the  town  and 
cost  such  a  fabulous  sum  that  Byron  wrote  about  it  the  following  couplet: — 

"Shut  up — no,  not  the  King,  but  the  Pavilion, 
Or  else  'twill  cost  us  all  another  million." 

This  building  is  no  longer  a  residence  but  is  used  for  various  purposes.  Part  of  it 
serves  as  a  museum  and  among  other  interesting  objects  therein  is  a  collection  of 
pottery  decorated  with  American  subjects,  such  as  "The  Landing  of  the  Fathers 
at  Plymouth,"  "Landing  of  Roger  WilHams  at  Providence,"  bust  of  George  Wash- 
ington, etc. 

Four  miles  from  Brighton  is  the  pretty  village  of  Rottingdean  where  Rudyard 
Kipling  lived  for  some  time. 

Our  Brighton  was  set  apart  from  Cambridge  in  1779,  the  committee  appointed 
to  wait  on  the  Honourable  General  Court  with  the  petition  being  Samuel  Willis 
Pomeroy,  Gorham  Parsons,  Stephen  and  Thomas  Dana  and  Daniel  Bowen. 

There  is  also  a  Brighton  in  Maine  and  one  in  Vermont. 


COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 

"And  to-day,  as  we  look  o'er  that  village, 
Named  for  the  one  'cross  the  sea. 
It  seems  to  extend  hearty  welcome 
To  you,  from  old  Coventry." 

(The  above  is  part  of  the  last  verse  written  by  Ruth  Amelia  Higgins  on  the  occasion  of  the 
two  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  Coventry,  Connecticut.) 

4  LTHOUGH  a  small  town,  Coventry  has  had  such  close  relations  with 
/\  Coventry  in  England,  that  it  should  be  included  in  this  book.  Pre- 
A.  \.  vious  to  this  two  hundredth  anniversary  celebration,  WilUam  L.  Higgins, 
who  has  always  shown  a  great  interest  in  old  Coventry  across  the  water,  and  who 
was  President  of  the  Coventry  Town  Committee,  sent  the  following  letter  to  the 
Mayor  of  Coventry,  England: — 


6o  COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 

"Coventry,  Conn.  U.S. 
July  6,  1912. 
To  THE  Honourable  Mayor,  Coventry,  England. 

Dear  Sir: — 

We  are  about  to  celebrate  the  200th  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  this  town,  which 
according  to  tradition,  was  named  after  Coventry  in  England.  In  view  of  the  fact  that 
the  first  settlers  in  this  town  of  Coventry  were  either  EngUshmen  or  of  English  descent, 
some  of  whom,  or  their  ancestors,  may  have  come  from  your  English  city,  or  from  its 
vicinity,  it  is  very  probable  that  in  selecting  a  name  for  this  place,  as  in  the  estabUsh- 
ment  of  laws  and  customs,  their  minds  reverted  to  the  mother  country  and  to  the  town 
and  surroundings  from  whence  they  came.  We,  therefore,  accept  the  tradition  as  true 
and  feel  that  some  communication  either  in  person  or  by  letter  from  you  would  be  most 
welcome  to  the  people  of  this  town,  and  very  appropriate  to  the  occasion.  On  behalf  of 
this  town  of  Coventry  we  therefore  extend  to  you  a  cordial  invitation  to  be  present  as  a 
representative  of  your  city  at  the  celebrations  of  our  anniversary,  which  will  take  place 
during  the  last  week  in  August,  191 2,  known  as  'Old  Home  Week.'  In  case  you  cannot 
be  here,  and  are  unable  to  send  a  representative,  it  wiU  give  us  great  pleasure  to  receive 
some  kind  of  acknowledgment  or  communication  from  you  as  a  memorial  of  Coventry 
in  England. 

Respectfully  yours, 

William  L.  Higgins,  President  Town  Committee 
Curtis  Dean,  Secretary  Town  Committee  " 

We  are  also  going  to  quote  the  reply  in  order  to  show  the  great  interest  taken  by  the 

old  town  in  its  namesake : — 

"The  Charterhouse,  Coventry 
July  30,  1912. 

To 

William  L.  Higgins,  Esq.,  M.D. 
President  of  Town  Committee, 
South  Coventry,  Conn.  U.S.A. 
Dear  Sir: — 

I  was  much  interested  to  receive  your  letter  of  July  6th  inviting  me  to  the  celebration 
of  the  200th  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  your  town  and  I  only  regret  that  I  am  unable 
to  accept  your  kind  invitation,  but  unfortunately  all  my  days  are  practically  taken  up 
and  mapped  out  up  to  the  end  of  my  term  of  ofl&ce,  November  ist,  next. 

I  see  no  reason  to  doubt  that  the  original  founders  of  your  town  were  connected  with 
our  city  as  its  citizens  have  always  been  capable  of  adapting  themselves  to  the  needs  of 
the  age,  as  witnessed  by  their  adoption  of  comparatively  new  industries  such  as  the 
bicycle  and  motor  trades,  after  the  shrinkage  in  the  old  watch  and  ribbon  trades  intro- 
duced by  the  Huguenots,  and  this  spirit  of  originality  no  doubt  prompted  some  of  our 
ancestors  200  years  ago  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  the  New  World,  and  to  name  their  town 
in  memory  of  their  old  home. 

At  any  rate  there  is  a  strong  feeling  among  us  that  we  have  brothers  and  sisters  in 
America,  and  I  shall  with  pleasure  make  known  to  our  citizens  the  reception  of  the  kind 
wishes  and  sentiments  of  the  New  Coventry  over  the  water,  which  are  heartily  reciprocated 
and  I  trust  that  your  Town  may  prosper  in  the  same  way  as  this  ancient  city  has  done. 

I  am  sending  you  a  few  photographs  of  some  of  the  beauty  spots  of  our  ancient  city, 
and  believe  me 

With  cordial  greetings, 

Yours  very  truly, 

W.  F.  Wyley,  Mayor  of  Coventry  " 


COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 


6i 


From  a  print  dated  17Q4  owned  by  Allan  Forbes 


Formerly  in  the  collection  of  J.  H.  Seers,  Essex,  England 


COVENTRY,  ENGLAND 


This  correspondence  was  followed  by  the  following  resolution  passed  by  the  citizens 

of  the  Connecticut  town  at  the  regular  town  meeting  held  on  the  7th  of  October, 

1912: — 

"Resolved,  That,  We,  citizens  of  the  Town  of  Coventry  in  town  meeting  assembled 
do  hereby  send  to  Coventry,  England,  Greeting:  that  we  express  to  its  Mayor  and  City 
Council  our  hearty  appreciation  of  and  thanks  for  the  kind  reception  which  our  bi-cen- 
tennial  message  received  from  them,  and  also  for  the  numerous  books,  pictures,  papers 
and  other  tokens  of  their  interest  and  regard  sent  to  us  in  return;  that  we  sincerely  recipro- 
cate the  kind  wishes  and  sentiments  expressed  in  Mayor  Wyley's  letter  to  us,  and  that  we 
shall  ever  hold  Coventry  across  the  sea  in  affectionate  remembrance  and  regard  and 
rejoice  in  her  prosperity. 

Attest. 

John  S.  Champlin,  Town  Clerk  " 

This  celebration  and  the  correspondence  that  ensued  created  a  great  deal  of  interest 
in  old  Coventry,  which,  by  the  way,  is  sometimes  referred  to  as  the  "town  of  the 
three  spires,"  and  an  account  of  the  proceedings  was  printed  in  the  Coventry  Herald 
in  the  English  town.  Many  friendly  letters  were  also  received  by  our  Coventry, 
which  included  a  very  impressive  letter  from  an  English  workman  describing  his 
pleasure  at  the  interchange  of  friendly  messages  between  the  two  towns.  These 
letters  including  the  article  in  the  Coventry  Herald,  together  with  a  number  of 


62 


COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 


books,  pictures  and  presents,  sent 
from  the  ancient  city,  are  prized 
very  highly  by  the  town  com- 
mittee of  our  Coventry.  Still 
another  evidence  of  the  friendship 
between  the  two  countries  was 
shown  on  this  occasion  of  the 
anniversary  of  the  Connecticut 
town,  when  ribbons  from 
Stephen's  Factory  in  the  English 
town  were  worn  as  badges  by  the 
citizens  of  our  town. 

Some  years  ago  Dean  Beau- 
mont of  Coventry,  England, 
visited  New  Haven  and  while 
there  recalled  the  fact  that  their 
first  Governor  was  Theophilus 
Eaton,  who  was  the  son  of  an 
early  vicar  of  Holy  Trinity, 
Coventry,  England,  and  that  the 
first  pastor  of  the  New  Haven 
church  was  John  Davenport,  the 
son  of  a  former  Mayor  of  the 
English  Coventry.  Davenport 
with  some  friends  visited  Quin- 
nipiac,  the  old  Indian  name  for 
New  Haven,  and  founded  a  colony 
there  in  the  year  1638.  Both  had  been  students  at  the  Coventry  Grammar  School. 
Canon  Beaumont  at  one  time  was  able  to  save  an  historic  building  in  New  Haven, 
whereupon  he  was  made  a  corresponding  member  of  its  Historical  Society.  While 
a  guest  of  the  town,  Beaumont  was  received  with  much  courtesy  by  Professor 
Dexter  of  Yale  University,  whose  wife  was  a  descendant  of  Davenport,  and  who 
had  several  times  visited  the  old  town  in  search  of  historical  information  respecting 
the  founders  of  her  city. 

There  are  at  least  five  Coventrys  in  America,  four  of  which  are  situated  in 
Connecricut,  Pennsylvania,  Rhode  Island  and  Vermont,  the  Connecticut  Coventry 
being  incorporated  in  171 2.  The  early  pedrion  to  the  Court  gave  a  Hst 
of  six  families  most  of  whom  are  said  to  have  come  from  Hartford,  Connecticut, 
and  Northampton,  Massachusetts.  One  of  the  interesring  objects  in  connecrion 
with  the  early  history  of  the  Connecticut  Coventry  was  the  will  of  the  Indian 
sachem  "Joshua,"  which  is  preserved  in  the  State  Library  at  Hartford. 


Photographs. :     ,  Lrmst  W.  Appleby        Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson, Esq. 

THE   DAVENPORT  HOUSE,  COVENTRY, 
ENGLAND 

The  home  of  the  ancestors  of  John  Davenport,  who  was  one 
of  the  founders  of  New  Haven,  Connecticut,  and  first  pastor 
of  the  church  there. 


The 


COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 


63 


redskin  made  careful  provisions  for 
his  children  and  their  bringing 
up,  recording  his  wishes  in  these 
words : — 

"Further  my  Will  is  that  my 
Children  be  brought  up  the  first  four 
years  with  Trusty  and  their  mother  to 
teach  them  EngUsh  .  .  .  and  at  the 
expiration  of  the  said  four  Years  I 
desire  that  my  Children  may  be  kept 
at  the  EngUsh  Schoole." 

He  especially  desired  that  they 
should  be  kept  apart  from  the  Con- 
necticut Indians,  and  made  the 
further  request  that  he  be  buried 
at  "Saybrook  in  a  Coffin  after  the 
English  manner." 

The  town  is  best  known  as  the 
birthplace  and  home  of  Nathan 
Hale  who  was  shot  as  a  spy  in  the 
Revolutionary  War,  his  last  words, 
"My  only  regret  is  that  I  have  but 
one  hfe  to  lose  for  my  country," 
being  known  the  world  over.  A 
beautiful  monument  has  been  set 
up  to  his  memory  in  the  Nathan 

Hale  Cemetery  in  Coventry,  other  memorials  also  having  been  erected  in 
the  east  corridor  of  the  State  Capitol,  Hartford,  Connecticut,  on  the  front 
lawn  of  the  Wadsworth  Athenaeum,  Hartford,  Connecticut,  in  City  Hall  Park, 
New  York,  and  on  the  Yale  Campus,  New  Haven.  The  town  of  this  name 
in  Vermont  was  named  for  the  Connecticut  town  in  honour  of  Major 
Elias  Buel,  whose  father.  Captain  Peter  Buel,  was  one  of  the  first  settlers  in 
the  latter  place. 

To  the  reader  the  EngHsh  Coventry,  of  course,  suggests  Lady  Godiva  and  the 
"Peeping  Tom"  incident.  Tradition  has  been  heaped  upon  tradition  until 
the  story  has  assumed  large  proportions  and  today  in  the  EngHsh  town  there 
is  an  efiigy  of  the  curious  one — who  was  a  tailor — in  the  wall  of  the  King's  Head 
Hotel  on  Hertford  Street.     For  his  rashness,  according  to  Tennyson, — 

"His  eyes,  before  they  had  their  will 
Were  shrivell'd  into  darkness  in  his  head, 
And  dropped  before  him." 


Photo!ra;l    i  ^     frne  t  II'.  AppL^y     Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Rohertson,  Esq. 

EFFIGY  OF  PEEPING  TOM,  KING'S  HEAD  HOTEL, 
COVENTRY,  ENGLAND 


64  COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT 

It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  Lady  Godiva  was  a  real  person,  the  wife  of 
Leofric,  mother  of  ^Ifgar,  Earl  of  East  AngHa,  and  that  her  remains  were  buried 
in  the  monastery  at  Coventry. 

The  town  itself  has  been  the  scene  of  many  charming  stories  and  a  modern 
chronicler  well  described  its  place  in  British  history  in  these  words:  "It  is  a  typi- 
cally English  city,  whose  history  might  serve  as  the  '  abstract  and  brief  chronicles ' 
of  the  time.  A  thoroughly  corrupt  borough  in  the  worst  days  of  municipal  cor- 
ruption, rigidly  Puritan  under  the  Stuarts,  loyal  under  Elizabeth,  steady  for  hered- 
itary right  at  Mary's  accession — but  Protestant,  as  witness  its  martyrs — Lollard 
in  the  heyday  of  Lollardry,  patriotic  and  tolerant  throughout  the  Hundred  Years' 
War — as  England  was,  so  was  Coventry.  In  art  and  letters,  also,  the  city  recalls 
what  is  most  characteristic  in  the  achievements  of  the  English  people.  Here 
flourished  mediaeval  architecture,  an  art  wherein  EngHshmen  have  excelled  greatly; 
.  .  .  while  chance  and  the  sojourn  of  George  Eliot,  have  given  the  city  associations 
with  the  literary  outburst  of  the  Victorian  time." 

A  part  of  the  old  wall  begun  in  1356  still  remains;  it  is  recorded  that  Charles  I 
made  a  breach  in  this  wall  in  1642  and  that  some  years  later  another  breach  was 
ordered  by  Charles  II  in  revenge  for  the  repulsing  of  his  father's  forces.  Many 
have  believed  that  the  famous  Mother  Shipton  foretold  the  final  destruction  of 
this  wall  when  she  prophesied  that  a  pigeon  should  pull  it  down,  which  turned  out 
to  be  true,  for  the  walls  were  eventually  taken  down  during  the  Mayoralty  of 
Thomas  Pigeon. 

There  are  many  old  landmarks  in  Coventry  and  among  other  attractive  feat- 
ures are  "the  three  tall  spires"  shown  in  the  cut,  which  lend  a  dignity  to  the  view  as 
one  approaches  the  city.  One  of  these  spires  is  that  of  St.  Michael's,  said  to  be  one 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  florid  or  perpendicular  style  of  architecture  in  England. 

Coventry  is  the  center  of  many  industries  such  as  woolens,  hosiery,  textiles, 
watches,  iron  and  brass  foundries,  printing,  motor  and  cycle  manufacturing.  It  is 
well  described  by  Michael  Drayton,  Poet  Laureate  in  1626,  in  these  lines: — 

"Now  flourishing  with  fanes  [temples]  and  proud  pyramides  [spires] 
Her  walls  in  good  repair,  her  ports  [gates]  so  bravely  built, 
Her  haUs  in  good  estate,  her  cross  so  richly  gilt 
As  scorning  all  the  Towns  that  stand  within  her  view." 

In  ancient  documents  the  town  was  called  Coventree,  sometimes  Coven tria, 
both  names  probably  being  derived  from  a  convent  established  there  in  the 
seventh  century  of  which  St.  Osburg  was  the  Abbess.  When  Queen  Elizabeth 
visited  Coventry,  the  Mayor  is  supposed  to  have  received  his  Sovereign  with  these 

words: — 

"We  men  of  Coventree 
Are  very  glad  to  see 
Your  Gracious  Majestie. 
Good  Lord,  how  fair  ye  be!" 


COVENTRY,   CONNECTICUT  65 

To  which  the  Queen  is  said  to  have  replied : — 

"Our  gracious  Majestie 
Is  very  glad  to  see 
Ye  men  of  Coventree. 
Good  lack,  what  fools  are  ye!" 

In  St.  Michael's  Cathedral  is  the  burial-place  of  Ann  Sewell,  wife  of  WiUiam 
Sewell,  who  is  an  ancestor  of  many  of  the  family  of  this  name  in  New  England. 
The  famous  Mrs.  Siddons  was  married  in  Holy  Trinity  Church.  John  Davenport 
was  born  in  Coventry  in  15 17  and  his  house  is  still  standing.  The  town  quite  re- 
cently commemorated  the  centenary  of  George  Eliot. 


DOVER,   MASSACHUSETTS 

FORTY-FOUR  American  and  Colonial  Dovers,  including  the  Maine  and 
Massachusetts  Dovers  and  possibly  the  New  Hampshire  Dover,  were  rep- 
resented at  the  great  pageant  held  in  Dover,  England,  in  1908.  The  chorus 
sang  the  following  two  verses,  one  expressing  the  pleasure  of  Dover,  England,  in 
receiving  so  many  of  her  offspring,  the  other  being  an  ode  to  the  famous  English 
port: — 

"And  ye  that  hearken  the  while  we  sing, 
Look  up,  and  behold  a  wondrous  thing! 
For  these  her  daughters  from  oversea, 
That  follow  in  Dover's  company, 
Forty  and  four 
The  wide  world  o'er. 
And  mothers  of  mighty  sons  to  be — 
These  from  the  ends  of  the  earth  who  came, 
Share  her  honour,  and  bear  her  name — 
With  home-felt  rapture  around  her  throng. 
And  thrill  to  the  close  of  her  triumph-song!" 

"Oh,  fair  and  majestic  haven,  couched  under  the  seacliffs  white, 
That  title  upon  thee  graven,  Invicta,  was  thine  of  right. 
For  one  with  the  waves  thy  glory,  and  one  with  the  winds  thy  might, 
And  the  web  of  thine  endless  story  is  woven  by  day  and  night, 
Of  ocean's  infinite  yearning,  criss-crossed  with  the  to-and-fro 
Of  a  thousand  keels  returning,  a  thousand  that  outward  go! 
From  the  frowning  towers  above  thee,  to  the  fringing  foam  below 
To  think  of  thee  is  to  love  thee,  as  all  that  have  known  thee  know." 

The  scene  of  this  pageant  must  have  been  very  inspiring,  for  nearby  was  the  historic 
Dover  Castle,  shown  in  the  cut  on  the  next  page,  and  also  Shakespeare  Cliff,  which 
was  chosen  by  Shakespeare  for  his  famous  scene  between  Edgar  and  Gloucester  in 
"King  Lear."     A  monument  is  to  be  raised  on  the  Chfifs  to  the  men  who  fell  during 


DOVER,  MASSACHUSETTS 


67 


From  a  print  in  the  collection  of  Carleion  A.  Shaw,  Esq. 


Kindness  Carleton  A.  Shaw,  Esq.,  and  Arthur  G.  Fuller,  Esq. 


EMBARKATION  OF  HENRY  VIII  AT  DOVER   IN   1520 

The  original  of  this  picture  hangs  in  the  Royal  Apartments  at  Windsor  Castle.     It  can  be  seen  that  even 
in  those  days  Dover  ranked  high  among  the  important  ports  of  the  world. 

the  Great  War  while  serving  in  the  splendid  "Dover  Patrol,"  whose  duties  were 
shared  by  many  Americans.  A  similar  monoHth  will  be  erected  near  Cape  Blanc  Nez 
in  France  and  also  on  some  government  land  overlooking  New  York  Harbour,  the  cost 
of  the  latter  having  been  defrayed  by  subscriptions  to  the  Dover  Patrol  Memorial 
Fund  Committee,  the  presentation  of  which  was  made  on  April  21,  1920,  to  our 
Secretary  of  War  by  Major  Evelyn  Wrench,  Hon.  Secretary  of  the  London  Branch 
of  the  Enghsh-Speaking  Union.  The  memorial  will  testify  to  the  spirit  of  co-opera- 
tion which  existed  between  the  American  and  British  navies  during  the  late  war. 
Most  of  the  travelers  to  Dover  in  the  past  have  thought  first  of  all  of  the  channel 
passage,  whether  it  was  to  be  rough  or  smooth,  but  it  is  inevitable  that  tourists 
should  in  the  future  take  more  interest  in  this  town,  which  is  a  prosperous  port, 
an  important  garrison  town,  a  naval  depot,  a  popular  watering  place  and  a  busy 
commercial  center,  with  a  population  of  about  forty-two  thousand.  It  is  only 
twenty-two  miles  to  France,  and  on  a  clear  day  the  coast  is  clearly  discernible,  as 
Wordsworth  described  in  these  words: — 

"And  saw,  while  sea  was  calm  and  air  was  clear. 
The  coast  of  France!   the  coast  of  France  how  near!" 

It  was  from  Dover  that  the  first  successful  start  was  made  to  cross  the  Channel  in 
a  balloon,  on  January  7,  1785,  and  in  this  port  on  July  25,  1909,  landed  M.  Bleriot, 
the  first  to  cross  these  waters  in  a  monoplane. 

Dover,  situated  in  County  Kent  on  the  river  Dour,  is  one  of  the  historic  Cinque 
Ports,  and  furnished  five  ships  which  helped  considerably  in  defeating  the  Armada. 


68 


DOVER,  MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  The  View  &*  Portrait  Supply  Co.,  15,  Lisle  St.,  Leicester  Sq.,  //'.  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

DOVER  CASTLE,  DOVER,  ENGLAND 

The  Massachusetts  town  has  taken  a  great  deal  of  interest  in  the  Enghsh  Dover 
and,  about  the  year  1845,  officially  appointed  the  Rev.  Dr.  Sanger  in  town  meeting 
to  write  a  suitable  reply  to  a  letter  of  greeting  sent  from  this  channel  port,  but  as 
the  subject  did  not  appear  in  the  Town  Warrant,  there  is  no  record  of  this  interest- 
ing event.  Again  in  1898,  when  the  Dover  First  Parish  celebrated  the  one  hun- 
dred and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  its  organization,  fitting  reference  was  made  to  the 
mother  town.  In  1918,  H.  J.  Taylor,  Esq.,  of  Dover,  England,  a  member  of  the 
British  American  Fellowship  Committee,  sent  Dover  an  invitation  to  have  any  of 
its  men  serving  in  the  war  visit  the  Enghsh  seaport  and  so  far  as  possible  notices 
were  sent  to  all  Dover  boys  informing  them  of  this  invitation. 

In  1920  various  pubHcations  giving  the  history  of  Dover  were  sent  to  the  mother 
town  and  were  acknowledged  for  the  corporation  by  the  town  clerk,  Reginald  E. 
Knocker,  Esq.  In  exchange,  the  Dover,  Massachusetts,  Public  Library  received 
"Annals  of  Dover"  by  J.  Bavington  Jones;  "Dover  and  the  Great  War;"  and 
"Dover,  England's  Gate"  by  Walter  Emden,  late  Mayor  of  Dover,  all  volumes 
being  highly  prized  by  the  Hbrary. 

Dover,  Massachusetts,  was  incorporated  as  the  Springfield  Parish  of  Dedham 
in  1748,  as  the  District  of  Dover  in  1784  and  as  the  town  of  Dover  in  1836. 

There  is  also  a  Dover  in  Vermont. 


69 


EXETER,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

THE  beginnings  of  Exeter,  New  Hampshire,  date  back  to  the  year  1638  when 
Rev.  John  Wheelwright,  being  denied  by  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony 
freedom  in  reHgious  matters  and  having  incurred  the  displeasure  of  the 
authorities,  was  banished  from  the  Colony  in  1637.  With  a  small  band  of  follow- 
ers and  companions  he  turned  to  the  North  and  was  given  by  the  Indian  sagamore 
and  his  son,  by  deeds  dated  1638  which  are  still  preserved,  title  to  a  tract  of  land 
about  the  Falls  of  the  Squamscott.  The  name  of  Exeter  was  given  to  this  settle- 
ment in  honour  of  Godfrey  Dear- 
born of  Exeter,  England,  who  had 
accompanied  Rev.  Mr.  Wheel- 
wright in  his  exile.  There  is  on 
record  an  estimate  of  the  prowess 
of  Rev.  Mr.  Wheelwright  on  the 
football  field,  written  by  Oliver 
Cromwell  who  often  played 
against  him  while  they  were  fel- 
low-students at  Cambridge  Uni- 
versity, and  who  declared  later 
that  he  used  to  be  more  afraid  of 
meeting  Wheelwright  at  football 
than  he  had  been  since  of  meeting 
an  army  in  the  field.  After  grad- 
uation Wheelwright  took  holy 
orders  and  later  became  allied 
with  the  Puritan  movement  and 
was  silenced  for  non-conformity. 
In  1636  he  landed  in  Boston  and 
soon  after  became  pastor  of  a  new 
church  gathered  at  Mt.  Wollas- 
ton,  now  Quincy.  After  falHng 
under  the  ban  of  the  Massachu- 
setts Bay  Colony  and  settling  in 
this  New  Hampshire  territory, 
now  Exeter,  one  of  the  first  deeds 
accomplished  was  the  founding 
of  a  church  which  still  remains 
the  Town  Church.  Rev.  Samuel 
Dudley,  son  of  Governor  Thomas 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Edmund  S.  Boyer,  Esq.,  and  Joseph  S. 
Ford,  Esq. 

REPLICA  OF  THE   COAT  OF  ARMS   OF  EXETER, 

ENGLAND,  IN  THE  ADMINISTRATION  BUILDING 

OF  PHILLIPS-EXETER  ACADEMY,  EXETER,  NEW 

HAMPSHIRE, 

procured  by  Joseph  S.  Ford,  Esq.,  at  the  suggestion  of  the 
President  of  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  the  Academy,  S. 
Sidney  Smith,  Esq.  The  present  was  sent  in  1915  by  A. 
Wheaton,  Esq.,  of  the  EngHsh  Exeter,  and  with  it  came  a 
copy  of  the  exemphfication  of  the  coat  of  arms  given  by 
Queen  Elizabeth,  dated  August  6,  1564,  the  town  being 
spelled  Exceter  at  that  time.  The  building  in  which  it  is 
placed  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  cut. 


From  "Life  at  Exeter"  Kindness  Edmund  S.  Boyer,  Esq.,  and  Phillips-Exeter  Academy 

ADMINISTRATION   BUILDING  OF  PHILLIPS-EXETER   ACADEMY,  EXETER,  NEW 

HAMPSHIRE, 
in  which  there  is  a  reproduction  of  the  coat  of  arms  of  Exeter,  England,  shown  in  another  illustration. 


From  "32  Photographic  Views  oj  South  Devon,"  C  llcut  &•  Beavis,  London  Kindness  H'olter  K.  H'utkins,  Esq. 

EXETER  CATHEDRAL,  EXETER,  ENGLAND 


EXETER,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


From  "  The  ll'est  Coa^i  nf  EnsLnd"  Pi,  fin  I  (,  i   ',-  "?,     nd  Edition 


Kindness  Walter  K,  Watkins,  Esq. 


THE  EXE   BRIDGE,  EXETER,  ENGLAND 


Dudley,  a  native  of  England,  was  pastor  of  this  church  for  thirty-three  years. 
Another  man  who  added  to  the  fame  of  Exeter  was  John  PhilHps,  who,  born  in 
Andover,  Massachusetts,  moved  to  Exeter  in  174 1.  He  taught  for  a  time,  then 
engaged  in  trade  in  which  he  was  very  successful.  He  gave  liberally  to  the  cause 
of  education,  contributing  to  Dartmouth  College  and,  joining  with  his  brother, 
Samuel,  founded  PhilHps-Andover.  He  later  founded  and  organized  Philhps- 
Exeter  Academy  in  1783,  remaining  for  twelve  years  as  its  head.  Daniel  Web- 
ster, Edward  Everett  and  General  Lewis  Cass  (who  was  born  in  Exeter  in  a  house 
which  is  still  standing)  are  three  well-known  graduates  of  this  Academy.  The 
Oilman,  Ladd,  French  and  Folsom  famihes  are  others  who  have  done  much  for 
the  development  of  the  town  from  its  earliest  days  down  to  the  present  time. 
WilHam  H.  Folsom  who  pitched  the  first  curved  ball  for  Harvard  University  was  a 
native  of  Exeter. 

In  1915,  through  the  efforts  of  Mr.  Joseph  S.  Ford,  at  the  suggestion  of  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Board  of  Trustees  of  the  Academy,  S.  Sidney  Smith,  Esq.,  of  New  York 
City,  a  replica  of  the  City  Arms  of  Exeter,  England,  was  sent  to  the  New  Hampshire 
town  by  Mr.  A.  Wheaton,  book  pubHsher  in  the  Enghsh  Exeter.  This  now  hangs 
in  the  Administration  Building  of  Phillips-Exeter  Academy.  An  exemphfication 
of  the  coat  of  arms,  as  granted  by  Queen  Elizabeth,  dated  August  6,  1564,  and 
verified  as  a  copy  by  Mr.  H.  Lloyd  Parry,  Town  Clerk,  was  sent  from  England 
as  descriptive  of  the  replica  and  is  now  preserved  in  the  Library  of  the  Academy. 
At  the  time  the  original  document  was  written  the  manner  of  spelling  the  name  of 
the  town  in  England  was  "Exceter." 

Exeter,  England,  is  situated  in  the  county  of  Devon,  on  the  river  Exe,  which 
plainly  shows  whence  came  its  name.  This  old  English  town  is  famous  for  the 
number  of  sieges  it  sustained  as  the  chief  place  in  the  southwest  of  England.  In 
early  times  it  was  called  Caer  Isc  by  the  Britons,  while  later  the  Romans  called  it 


72  EXETER,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

Isca  Damnoniorum.  On  an  eminence  near  one  of  the  railway  stations  may  be  seen 
the  ruins  of  Rougemont  Castle,  built  by  William  the  Conqueror,  which  was  so 
named  for  the  colour  of  the  rock  on  which  it  was  built.  Exeter's  principal  edifice 
is  the  cathedral,  begun  in  iioo,  which  is  famed  for  the  beauty  of  its  design  and 
the  richness  of  its  decorations.  In  the  chapter-house  of  the  cathedral  is  preserved, 
among  other  valuable  ancient  manuscripts,  Leofric's  famous  book  of  Saxon  poetry. 
The  city  has  some  shipping  trade,  communication  with  the  sea  being  furnished 
by  the  ship-canal  originally  cut  in  the  reign  of  EHzabeth  in  1564.  This  waterway 
is  an  interesting  work,  being  the  first  one  carried  out  in  the  United  Kingdom  for 
the  purpose  of  enabling  seagoing  vessels  to  pass  to  an  inland  port. 


FRAMINGHAM,  MASSACHUSETTS 

FRAMLINGHAM,  England,  which  is  spelled  with  an  "1,"  is  a  small  town 
near  Ipswich  as  shown  in  a  letter  written  in  1900  by  Rev.  J.  Holme  Pilking- 
ton,  Rector  of  Framlingham,  to  Peter  N.  Everett,  Esq.,  Secretary  of  the 
Bicentennial  Committee  of  Framingham,  Massachusetts: — 

"A  remark  in  an  Jpswich  paper  a  week  or  two  back,  will,  I  think,  give  you  a  good 
idea  of  our  present  condition.  It  says  '  FramUngham  went  to  sleep  in  the  time  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  and  has  not  woke  up  yet.  You  may  make  as  much  noise  as  you  like,  you  will 
never  wake  it  now.'     I  am  afraid  there  is  much  truth  underlying  the  sarcasm." 

Another  note  written  in  1900  describes  Framlingham  as  a  "small  town  of  rather 
more  than  two  thousand  inhabitants.  Though  a  small  and  (except  locally)  unim- 
portant place  now,  it  has  great  and  interesting  historical  associations  and  the  im- 
posing ruins  of  Framlingham  Castle  testify  to  its  ancient  grandeur.  I  expect  the 
American  daughter  has  altogether  eclipsed  her  EngUsh  Mother." 

There  have  been  a  few  interchanges  of  presents  which  have  been  sent  chiefly 
by  the  Rector,  as  the  town  does  not  boast  of  a  Mayor.  The  most  interesting 
report,  however,  of  the  old  town  has  been  written  by  Mr.  John  M.  Merriam  and 
we  beHeve  we  cannot  do  better  than  quote  parts  of  his  account  of  his  visit  to  Fram- 
lingham, which  he  has  kindly  furnished  for  this  article: — 

"It  was  an  unusual  pleasure  which  fell  to  our  lot  May  26,  1914,  to  visit  the  Town  of 
Framlingham,  in  England,  and  it  has  been  a  continuing  pleasure  since  our  return  to  our 
home  in  Massachusetts  to  study,  so  far  as  we  have  been  able,  the  history  of  this  old 
Mother  town. 

These  two  far  distant  Towns  are  connected  through  the  life  of  Thomas  Danforth. 
When  the  Pilgrims  were  endeavoring  to  preserve  their  frail  settlement  on  these  Massa- 
chusetts shores  in  1622,  a  son  was  born  to  Nicholas  Danforth  in  Framlingham,  England. 
The  father,  Nicholas,  was  a  man  of  position  in  his  community,  in  England,  being  a  Vestry- 
man in  the  established  church.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  church  the  son  was  bap- 
tised at  the  old  Font  in  front  of  the  Altar  and  this  font  is  still  in  use,  and  the  record  of  his 
baptism  is  preserved  in  the  Parish  records  which  can  still  be  examined  in  consecutive  order 
from  the  century  preceding  his  birth  to  the  present  time.     The  father  moved  from  Eng- 


FRAMINGHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS 


73 


■ned  hy  John  M.  Mfrri.jm,   Eyj.,   of  Framinshwf .  Massachusetts 

FRAMLINGHAM   CHURCH,   FRAMLINGHAM,   ENGLAND 

The  Rector  of   this  church,  Rev.  J.  Hohne  Pilkington,  sent  letters  at  the  time  of  the  Bicentennial 
celebration  of  the  incorporation  of  Framingham,  Massachusetts,  in  1900. 

land  in  1634.  He  had  lost  his  wife  in  1629  and  he  brought  with  him  the  six  children 
she  had  left.  He  was  among  the  early  settlers  of  Cambridge.  The  son,  Thomas,  was 
destined  for  important  service  in  this  new  land.  .  .  .  According  to  Governor  Hutchinson, 
he  had  a  'great  share  in  managing  the  public  affairs  in  the  most  difl&cult  times.'  For 
his  pubhc  service,  and  for  money  spent  by  him  in  the  pubUc  interest,  several  grants  of 
land  were  made  to  him  which  were  known  as  'Danforth  Farms'  and  this  territory  was 
incorporated  in  1700  as  Framingham  in  remembrance  of  the  town  of  his  birth.  Danforth 
had  died  in  the  preceding  year,  November  5, 1699.  The  name  was  in  use  before  the  incor- 
poration of  the  town  and  occurs  in  Danforth's  own  letters,  spelled  Framingham.  Our  Town 
Historian,  Rev.  Josiah  H.  Temple,  gives  a  few  references  in  our  Colonial  records  in  which 
the  EngUsh  spelling  Framlingham  was  followed.  I  have  found  a  further  instance  of 
this  spelling  in  Cotton  Mather's  Diary,  where  he  records,  August  14,  1718,  'Divisions  and 
Confusions  in  the  Church  at  FramUngham  call  for  my  best  endeavors  to  bring  them  to 
a  period.'  This  will  suffice  to  show  the  connection  historically  of  FramUngham,  England, 
and  Framingham,  Mass. 

A  branch  railroad  leaves  the  main  hne  about  eighty  miles  from  London,  and  ends  at 
the  Httle  Town  of  FramUngham,  a  township  of  some  two  thousand  people  in  the  northern 
part  of  Suffolk  County  near  the  line  of  Norfolk. 

.  .  .  The  oak  seems  to  have  flourished  near  FramUngham.     Probably  many  of  these 


74  FRAMINGHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS 

giants  of  the  forest  went  into  the  frigates  and  merchantmen  which  have  carried  the  Eng- 
hsh  flag  to  all  the  seas  of  the  world.  One  of  these  old  giants  was  known  as  the  '  Framling- 
ham  Oak,'  an  account  of  which  is  given  in  the  'Library  of  Entertaining  Knowledge.' 
This  tree  was  used  in  the  construction  of  the  'Royal  Sovereign.'  It  yielded,  so  we  read, 
four  square  beams,  each  one  forty-four  feet  in  length,  the  largest  one  of  which  was  four 
feet  nine  inches  square.  These  old  Enghsh  oaks  were  very  dear  to  the  English  people, 
as  some  of  their  old  songs  abundantly  prove.  Listen  to  the  words  of  the  familiar  song 
'Hearts  of  Oak.' 

'Hearts  of  oak  are  our  ships. 

Jolly  tars  are  our  men. 

We  always  are  ready, 

Steady  boys,  steady, 

We'll  fight  and  we'll  conquer 

Again  and  again.' 

'They  swear  they'll  invade  us,  these  terrible  foes. 
They  frighten  our  women,  our  children,  our  beaux, 
But  should  their  flat  bottoms  in  darkness  get  o'er 
Still  Britons  they'll  find  to  receive  them  on  shore.' 

Let  us  now  turn  to  the  history  of  Framhngham.  It  is  a  town  of  great  antiquity  begin- 
ning possibly  with  the  Roman  occupation.  The  ruins  of  a  castle  of  very  considerable 
proportions  crown  the  highest  land,  and  with  the  old  church  nearby,  are  the  principal 
objects  of  interest.  This  old  Castle  is  among  the  prominent  ones  of  early  England.  All 
it  needs  is  the  genius  of  another  Scott  to  cast  around  it  romantic  interest  similar  to  that 
of  Kenilworth.  This  Castle  was  the  home  of  perhaps  the  foremost  family  in  England, 
the  Howards,  famous  for  many  generations  as  the  great  House  of  Norfolk.  It  was  this 
family  which  furnished  Thomas  Howard,  the  second  Duke  of  Norfolk,  the  English  leader 
of  the  battle  resulting  in  the  defeat  of  Scotland  at  Flodden  Field.  Closely  connected  with 
the  same  family  were  those  unfortunate  royal  cousins,  Anne  Boleyn  and  Catherine  Howard, 
wives  of  Henry  VIII,  who  lost  their  heads  at  the  command  of  their  husband  and  king. 
Another  Howard  was  their  powerful  uncle,  Thomas  the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  who  was  saved 
from  death  at  the  block  by  the  death  of  the  king  himself  the  day  before  the  time  appointed 
for  the  execution.  .  .  .  The  present  representative  of  the  Howard  family  in  England  is 
the  Duke  of  Norfolk,  often  called  the  premier  duke  of  England,  as  his  title  can  be  traced 
to  the  earhest  sources  of  all  present  titles. 

Among  the  paintings  of  the  last  century  is  one  of  Framlingham  Castle  bearing  date 
1828,  by  John  Sell  Cotman,  A.W.S.  A  friend  recently  gave  to  me  a  portfolio  of  copies 
of  English  oils  and  water  colors,  and  in  it  I  was  deUghted  to  find  a  copy  of  Cotman's  paint- 
ing, which  shows  the  castle  as  it  stood  eighty-six  years  ago.  .  .  . 

The  author,  Richard  Green,  gives  two  possible  sources  of  the  name  Framhngham; 
one  from  the  Saxon  words  FriendUng  and  Ham — a  stranger's  home,  or  a  habitation  of 
strangers;  and  the  other  from  the  name  of  the  stream  Fromas.  The  name  antedates  the 
Domesday  Book  of  William  the  Conqueror  when  it  is  written  'Framincham.'  It  became 
a  family  name  in  1330  as  there  is  record  of  John  de  Framlingham,  a  Rector  of  Kelsale, 
and  in  1 540  Henry  VIII  conferred  a  grant  of  land  to  Francis  Framlingham,  who  held  the 
same  from  Thomas  Howard,  third  Duke  of  Norfolk,  as  'Lord  of  the  Manor  of  Framlingham 
ad  Castrum.' 

In  this  history  of  Green's  the  Castle  is  called  a  'pile  of  unknown  antiquity.'  An  early 
description  by  Dr.  Henry  Sampson,  the  Rector  of  Framlingham  in  1 650-1 660  is  this: 
'Framlingham  Castle  is  a  very  ancient  structure,  and  said  to  have  been  built  in  the  time 
of  the  Saxons.  It  was  one  of  the  principal  seats  of  St.  Edmund  the  King  and  Martyr. 
When  he  fled  from  Dunwich,  being  pursued  by  the  pagan  Danes,  he  took  refuge  in  this 
Castle  but  being  hard  besieged,  and  having  no  hope  of  rescue,  he  fled  from  thence,  and 


FRAMINGHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS 


75 


From  a  print  dated  1813,  owned  by  Allan  Forbes  Formerly  in  the  collection  of  J.  H.  Seers,  Essex,  England 

FRAMLINGHAM   CASTLE,  SUFFOLK,  ENGLAND 
Framingham,  Massachusetts,  is  named  for  Framlingham,  England. 

being  overtaken  by  his  enemies,  was  beheaded  at  Hoxon,  from  where  long  after  his  corpse 
was  removed  and  reinterred  at  Bury,  called  since  Bury  St.  Edmunds.' 

Dr.  Henry  Sampson  gives  the  interesting  description  of  Framlingham  Castle.  'This 
castle  was  given  by  King  Edward  I  to  his  second  son,  Thomas  of  Brotheron,  Earl  of 
Norfolk  and  Marshall  of  England,  who  repaired  it,  as  appeareth  by  his  arms  in  diverse 
places  thereof.' 

But  the  chief  interest  in  Framhngham  Castle  is  in  its  association  with  Mary,  who 
became  Queen  of  England  upon  the  death  of  her  younger  brother,  Edward  VI,  in  1553. 
When  he  died  Mary  was  at  Hunsdon  in  the  north  of  England,  and  the  message  came  to 
her  that  her  right  to  succeed  was  disputed  and  that  she  was  destined  for  imprisonment 
in  the  Tower  of  London.  She  turned  as  a  fugitive  toward  Kenninghall  in  Norfolk  County, 
where  at  one  time  she  had  Uved.  .  .  .  Kenninghall  was  unfortified,  but  only  twenty  miles 
away  was  Framlingham  Castle,  encircled  with  moats  and  completely  fortified,  and  here 
she  determined  to  make  her  stand  as  England's  Queen.  Directly  Mary  stood  within  the 
magnificent  area  formed  by  the  circUng  towers  of  Framlingham  Castle,  she  felt  herself 
a  sovereign;  she  immediately  defied  her  enemies,  by  displaying  her  standard  over  the 
gate-tower,  and  assumed  the  title  of  queen-regent  of  England  and  Ireland. 

With  the  arrival  of  Queen  Mary,  FramHngham  Castle  became  and  remained  for  a 
few  days  the  seat  of  Government.  Mary  appointed  a  privy  council  who  came  to  her 
assistance  at  Framlingham  and  royal  proclamations  were  issued  from  this  Castle.  .  .  . 
On  the  last  day  of  July,  Mary  began  her  triumphal  march  from  Framlingham  to  London. 
The  opposition  to  her  succession  to  the  throne  had  been  overcome,  influential  leaders  had 


76  FRAMINGHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS 

come  to  her  support,  an  army  had  been  placed  at  her  command,  ships  sent  to  Yarmouth 
in  order  to  besiege,  the  FramUngham  Castle  had  surrendered  upon  her  order,  money  had 
been  supplied,  and  she  had  organized  a  Government.  This  event  in  the  life  of  Queen 
Mary  is  thus  summed  up  by  the  historian  Knight; — 'Here  Mary  remained  till  the  last 
day  of  July.  She  entered  the  gates  of  Framlingham  after  a  hurried  ride  of  secrecy  and 
fear.     She  went  forth  surrounded  with  armed  thousands  in  the  state  of  a  Queen.'  .  .  . 

The  old  church  at  Framlingham,  as  well  as  the  Castle,  is  of  unusual  interest;  it  is 
situated  near  the  entrance  to  the  castle.  In  this  Church  are  the  tombs  of  Henry  Howard, 
Duke  of  Norfolk,  and  his  son  the  Earl  of  Surrey. 

In  the  same  corner  of  the  Church  is  the  tomb  of  Henry  Fitzroy,  the  natural  son  of 
King  Henry  VIII,  known  in  history  as  the  Earl  of  Richmond.  This  King  wrought  speedy 
punishment  upon  his  wives,  Anne  Boleyn  and  Catherine  Howard  when  slander  impeach- 
ing their  fidelity  was  brought  to  him,  but  he  saw  no  wrong  in  his  own  association  with 
Lady  EHzabeth  Talbois,  resulting  in  the  birth  of  this  son  in  15 19.  This  boy  lived  only 
seventeen  years,  but  before  his  death  he  married  Mary  Howard,  the  sister  of  the  Earl  of 
Surrey.  This  boy  was  not  only  acknowledged  by  his  father,  but  had  all  the  favor  and 
training  which  could  have  been  given  him  as  the  legitimate  Prince.  Froude  states  that 
he  was  'a  gallant  high  spirited  boy,'  that  his  'beauty  and  noble  promise'  were  at  once 
'his  father's  misery  and  pride,'  and  adds  'if  this  boy  had  lived  he  would  have  been  named 
to  follow  Edward  VI  in  this  succession  and  would  have  become  King  of  England.'  To 
what  strange  fancy  are  we  led  as  we  pause  at  the  tomb  of  this  boy  in  the  Framlingham 
Church  and  conjecture  how  his  life,  had  it  been  spared,  might  have  changed  the  whole 
course  of  English  history. 

But  our  most  pleasant  recollection  of  Framlingham  centers  around  the  Rectory  occu- 
pied by  the  Rev.  James  Holme  Pilkington.  Our  letter  of  introduction  from  Mr.  Peter  N. 
Everett  in  the  name  of  the  Selectmen  of  Framingham  secured  a  very  cordial  welcome 
from  the  Rector  and  his  wife.  He  recalled  his  correspondence  with  our  Bicentennial 
Committee  in  1899  and  1900,  parts  of  which  have  already  been  quoted,  and  expressed  an 
interest  in  our  populous  community,  which  in  commercial  prosperity  has  far  outstripped 
the  English  town.  We  were  made  welcome  in  his  home,  learned  from  him  something  of 
the  history  of  the  Castle  and  of  the  Church,  saw  the  old  Parish  register,  partook  of  tea  at 
his  table,  and  w^alked  about  his  beautiful  grounds.  It  was  a  welcome  many  miles  from 
home,  and  in  a  strange  land,  from  one  we  had  never  met  before,  but  it  had  the  warmth 
and  sincerity  as  from  an  old  friend.  The  hospitality  of  our  host  expressed  to  us  a  bond 
of  real  kinship  between  the  English  Framlingham  and  the  American  Framingham." 

The  English  Rector  in  one  of  his  letters  to  Mr.  Everett  wrote : — 

"I  am  sending  by  this  post  a  packet  containing  the  guide  to  Framlingham  which  I  prom- 
ised, and  also  a  small  local  Almanack  containing  a  short  retrospect  of  the  past  year,  with 
three  or  four  back  numbers  of  our  small  local  paper.  You  will  see,  as  you  doubtless  al- 
ready know,  that  we  are  very  much  behind  you  in  the  matter  of  journalism.  I  am  unable 
to  send  you  a  facsimile  of  our  ofi&cial  seal,  as  Framlingham  does  not  possess  such  a  thing. 
We  are  under  the  rule  of  Parish  Council,  which  are  seal-less  corporations." 

There  is  only  one  Framingham  in  the  United  States. 


77 


GREENWICH,  CONNECTICUT 

THE  town  of  Greenwich  in  the  county  of  Kent,  England,  from  which  Green- 
wich, Connecticut,  received  its  name,  is  celebrated  as  the  home  of  many  dis- 
tinguished individuals.  Dr.  Johnson  lived  there  for  a  short  time  and  liked 
the  town,  although  he  and  his  companion  agreed  that  they  liked  London  much 
better.  He  must  have  enjoyed  the  place  a  great  deal,  however,  for  he  described  it 
in  the  following  lines : — 

"On  Thames's  banks  in  silent  thought  we  stood, 
Where  Greenwich  smiles  upon  the  silver  flood; 
Pleased  with  the  seat  that  gave  Eliza  birth, 
We  kneel  and  kiss  the  consecrated  earth." 

(Eliza  refers  to  Queen  Elizabeth.) 

Greenwich  has  been  spoken  of  as  the  "marine  residence"  of  the  kings  and 
reached  its  zenith  at  the  time  of  Charles  I.  During  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII  many 
tilting  tournaments  were  held  there,  the  King  himself  being  most  skillful  at  this 
ancient  sport.  Besides  excelUng  in  tilting,  he  was  also  good  at  other  games,  for 
we  are  told  that  once  on  a  visit  to  France  he  defeated  a  huge  German  in  a  combat 
with  battle-axes,  being  beaten,  however,  by  Francis  I  of  France  in  wrestling.  King 
Henry's  brother-in-law,  Charles  Brandon,  whose  marriage  took  place  at  Greenwich 
in  15 15,  was  also  an  expert  at  the  tilts,  and  at  one  tournament  held  in  France  he 
won  over  all  comers  in  a  contest  in  which  pointed  spears  were  used.  The  following 
extract  from  a  challenge  issued  in  1606  well  expresses  the  romance  and  excitement 
attending  one  of  these  tournaments: — 

"To  all  honourable  men  at  arrmes,  and  knights,  adventurers  of  hereditarie  note  and 
exemplarie  noblesse  that  for  moste  maintainable  actions  do  wield  eyther  sword  or  lance  in 
quest  of  glorie." 

At  another  meeting  it  is  said  that  three  hundred  spears  were  "shivered"  in  one 
day's  sport. 

Henry  VIII  was  born  in  Greenwich  and  lived  there  the  greater  part  of  his  early 
Ufe,  in  the  gay  days  of  the  town.  It  was  there  that  he  resided  after  his  marriage  in 
1509  to  Catherine  of  Aragon,  with  whom  he  lived  happily  for  several  years.  While 
she  was  in  the  good  graces  of  the  king,  Catherine  took  an  active  interest  in  the 
affairs  of  the  nation.  It  is  told  of  her  that  when  business  was  dull  in  Bedfordshire, 
the  center  of  the  lace  industry,  she  burned  her  lace,  ordering  more  to  be  made, 
and,  in  recognition  of  this  royal  patronage,  as  late  as  the  nineteenth  century  the 
lace  makers  kept  "Cattern's  Day"  as  a  holiday  of  their  craft.  It  was  from  Green- 
wich that  this  unfortunate  wife  had  to  depart  in  1531  to  give  place  to  Anne  Boleyn, 
and  from  that  time  on,  the  cruel  career  of  King  Henry  is  only  too  well  known. 
Queen  Elizabeth,  who  was  a  daughter  of  King  Henry  VIII  and  Anne  Boleyn,  was 


GREENWICH,   CONNECTICUT 


FTom  an  old  print  Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 

GREENWICH  HOSPITAL,  GREENWICH,  LONDON,  ENGLAND, 
NOW  THE  ROYAL  NAVAL  COLLEGE 

Greenwich  is  now  part  of  London.     Many  important  events  in  England's  history  took  place  there. 

born  at  Greenwich  and  raised  the  village  to  the  position  of  a  town.  It  was  during 
the  reign  of  this  queen  that  Drake  circumnavigated  the  globe  and  after  this  event 
sailed  up  the  Thames  in  front  of  her  Greenwich  Palace  to  receive  honours  from 
Queen  Elizabeth,  who  dined  on  board  Drake's  vessel  and  knighted  the  famous 
explorer. 

The  Royal  Naval  College  is  a  feature  second  only  in  importance  to  the  Royal 
Observatory.  Before  being  taken  over  for  the  present  purpose,  this  splendid  range 
of  buildings  was  known  as  Greenwich  Hospital,  and  it  is  interesting  to  know  that  its 
pensioners  were  benefited  indirectly  by  the  well-known  pirate  Captain  Kidd,  whose 
property  was  sold  after  his  execution  in  London  and  £6472  therefrom  given  to  the 
hospital.  There  is  a  "Nelson"  room  in  this  College,  containing  some  fine  paintings 
of  that  great  seaman's  victories.  On  the  site  of  this  building  once  stood  the  Royal 
Palace  in  which  Henry  VIII,  Queen  Mary  and  Queen  EHzabeth  were  born,  and 
Edward  VI  died. 

Cardinal  Wolsey  lived  in  Greenwich  and  also  the  family  of  General  Wolfe  of 


GREENWICH,  CONNECTICUT  79 

Canadian  fame.  It  is  from  the  meridian  of  Greenwich  that  geographers  reckon 
longitude  and  from  the  Royal  Observatory  the  hours  are  flashed  to  every  part  of 
England  and  Scotland  by  means  of  the  "motor"  clock  which  is  one  of  the  many 
extraordinary  instruments  of  this  institution. 

The  connecting  links  between  old  Greenwich  in  England  and  new  Greenwich  in 
Connecticut  were  the  two  brothers  John  Mead  and  Joseph  Mead,  who  were  born 
in  Greenwich,  England,  now  part  of  Greater  London,  and  who  settled  in  that  part 
of  Greenwich,  Connecticut,  now  called  Sound  Beach,  formerly  named  Elizabeth's 
Neck  in  honour  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  later  Greenwich,  to  commemorate  the  birth- 
place of  these  two  Meads.  The  two  brothers  were  buried  in  the  old  cemetery  in 
Sound  Beach,  having  lived  in  that  Connecticut  town  for  the  greater  part  of  their 
Hves,  except  during  the  time  of  the  controversy  between  the  English  and  the  Dutch 
over  the  sovereignty  of  the  settlement,  when  they  temporarily  moved  to  Hempstead, 
Long  Island. 

John  Mead  made  his  first  purchase  of  land  in  Greenwich  in  the  year  1660  and 
from  then  to  the  present  time  this  name  has  been  one  of  the  most  important  in  the 
town.  Eleven  out  of  twenty- three  subscribers  towards  the  Greenwich  Library 
were  members  of  the  Mead  family.  The  following  story  is  told  in  Greenwich  of 
this  early  settler: — 

One  day  when  he  was  riding  on  horseback  Mead  overtook  a  man  walking  along 
the  road  with  a  heavy  bundle  and  asked  him  whether  he  couldn't  carry  it  for  him. 
"No,"  was  the  reply,  "you  don't  get  my  bundle,  for  I  can  read  men's  thoughts." 
This,  of  course,  irritated  Mead.  In  a  short  time  they  came  to  a  river  which  had 
to  be  forded,  whereupon  the  horseman  offered  to  take  the  suspecting  traveler  over 
the  stream  on  his  horse;  the  offer  was  accepted,  and  Mead,  on  reaching  the  deepest 
part,  precipitated  his  passenger  into  the  water,  telling  him  it  would  teach  him  a  good 
lesson. 

Joseph  Mead,  the  brother,  was  one  of  the  "Twenty-seven  Proprietors  of  1672" 
of  the  Town  of  Greenwich;  other  important  names  were  Peck,  Lockwood,  Reynolds, 
Close,  Ferris  and  Palmer. 

Two  other  early  settlers  were  George  Hubbard  and  Robert  Husted,  both  well- 
known  names  in  our  Greenwich.  The  former  was  probably  born  in  Somerset, 
England,  coming  to  this  country  about  1635  and  buying  land  in  the  town  in  the 
year  1659;  the  latter  sailed  from  England  for  Massachusetts  in  1635,  moving  to 
Stamford,  Connecticut,  several  years  later.  He  was  a  witness  in  1640  to  the  Indian 
deed  to  Greenwich,  conveying  part  of  the  town  to  Robert  Feaks  and  Captain  Daniel 
Patrick,  who  landed  at  Greenwich  Point  as  agents  of  the  New  Haven  Colony  for 
the  purpose  of  acquiring  that  property  at  Greenwich.  It  may  be  interesting  to 
mention  that  Feaks'  wife  was  the  widow  of  Henry  Winthrop,  son  of  Governor 
Winthrop  of  Massachusetts.  These  two  men  at  once  settled  at  Greenwich,  where 
they  died  a  few  years  later. 


8o  GREENWICH,  CONNECTICUT 

The  early  settlers  had  much  trouble  with  the  Indians,  but  finally  made  an 
agreement  with  the  Dutch  providing  that  their  combined  forces  should  be  used  in 
case  of  Indian  attacks. 

The  early  town  of  Greenwich,  or  Old  Town,  as  it  was  called,  included  the  terri- 
tory between  the  Mianus  River  on  the  west  and  the  town  of  Stamford  on  the  east. 
The  town  soon  spread  westward  beyond  the  river,  this  settlement  being  known  in 
1669  by  the  curious  name  of  Horseneck,  so  called  because  its  shape  was  said  to 
resemble  a  horse  with  his  neck  outstretched.  This  name  was  used  until  1849, 
although  the  consolidation  of  the  two  towns  took  place  in  1705.  The  patent  for 
the  town  was  granted  only  on  the  condition  that  an  orthodox  church  should  be 
maintained  and  the  first  church  stood  near  the  Greenwich  Cove. 

In  the  year  1673  postal  trips  on  horseback  were  inaugurated  over  the  trail  that 
was  at  first  known  as  the  Westchester  Path,  later  called  the  Country  Road,  then 
the  icing's  Highway,  Post  Road,  Turnpike  Road,  and  finally  the  Post  Road  again, 
by  which  name  it  is  now  known.  The  messenger  allowed  people  to  travel  with 
him.  A  weekly  packet  service  between  Greenwich  and  New  York  was  also  es- 
tablished as  early  as  1696,  to  carry  produce  and  passengers. 

No  visitor  should  go  to  Greenwich  without  visiting  the  scene  of  General  Israel 
Putnam's  famous  ride  of  the  Revolutionary  War.  The  centennial  of  this  event 
was  held  at  Greenwich  on  February  26,  1879,  and  on  that  occasion  there  were 
present  as  guests  a  great-grandson  of  Putnam  and  also  a  grandson  of  Thomas 
Merritt  of  Canada,  the  Tory  who  chased  the  General  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  down 
which  he  galloped  his  horse,  "daring  to  lead  where  not  one  of  many  hundred  foes 
dared  to  follow." 

The  history  of  the  nearby  city  of  Stamford  is  closely  connected  with  that  of 
Greenwich,  as  the  latter  place  was  in  the  early  days  part  of  the  former. 

There  is  also  a  Greenwich  in  Massachusetts. 


HAVERHILL,  MASSACHUSETTS 

"Graceful  in  name  and  in  thyself,  our  river 

None  fairer  saw  in  John  Ward's  pilgrim  flock, 
Proof  that  upon  their  century-rooted  stock 
The  English  roses  bloom  as  fresh  as  ever. 

Take  the  warm  welcome  of  new  friends  with  thee. 
And  listening  to  thy  home's  familiar  chime 
Dream  that  thou  hearest,  with  it  keeping  time, 

The  bells  on  Merrimac  sound  across  the  sea. 

Think  of  our  thrushes,  when  the  lark  sings  clear. 
Of  our  sweet  Mayflowers  when  the  daisies  bloom; 
And  bear  to  our  and  thy  ancestral  home 

The  kindly  greeting  of  its  children  here. 


HAVERHILL,   MASSACHUSETTS  8i 

Say  that  our  love  survives  the  severing  strain; 
That  the  New  England,  with  the  Old,  holds  fast 
The  proud,  fond  memories  of  a  common  past; 

Unbroken  still  the  ties  of  blood  remain!" 

THE  above  lines  were  written  by  the  poet  John  Greenleaf  Whittier,  at  the 
time  that  Hon.  Daniel  Gurteen,  Jr.,  Chairman  of  the  Local  Board  of  Ha- 
verhill, England,  and  his  daughter,  Miss  Grace  Gurteen,  ofificially  visited 
our  city  of  Haverhill,  in  1890,  on 
its  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anni- 
versary. Mr.  Gurteen  and  his 
daughter  called  on  Mr.  Whittier 
at  his  home  in  Danvers  and  it 
was  there  that  he  wrote  these 
impromptu  lines,  which  he  dedi- 
cated to  the  young  English 
woman.  The  English  Chairman 
in  the  following  letter  had  been 
ofificially  asked  by  the  Mayor  of 
Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  Hon. 
Thomas  E.  Burnham,  to  repre- 
sent his  town  at  this  celebra- 
tion : — 

"Mayor's  Office,  Haverhill,  Mass. 
March  15,  1890. 

To  THE  Chairman  of  the  Local 
Board, 

Haverhill,  England. 
Sir: — 

In  the  year  1640,  Rev.  John 
Ward,  born  in  Haverhill,  England, 
penetrated  with  a  small  band  of 
followers  into  what  was  then  a 
wilderness,  and  formed  a  little  set- 
tlement on  the  banks  of  the  Merri- 
mac  River,  in  what  is  now  Essex 
County,  Massachusetts.  In  honor 
of  their  devout  pastor  they  named 
the  settlement  Haverhill  for  his 
home  in  England.  .  .  . 

This  year,  on  the  second  and 
third  of  July,  we  propose  to  have 
a  celebration  of  the  quarter-millen- 
nial anniversary  of  the  settlement 
of  our  city,  and  recognizing  the  ties 
that  bind  us  to  your  own  ancient 
town,  and  feeling   that   it  would 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  John  G.  Monlton,  Esq. 

ADDRESS    FROM    HAVERHILL,    ENGLAND,    TO 
HAVERHILL,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

brought  to  this  country  by  Hon.  Daniel  Gurteen,  Jr.,  Chair- 
man of  the  Local  Board  of  the  EngHsh  town,  on  the  occasion 
of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  our  town,  in 
1890.  It  is  now  in  the  Haverhill  (Massachusetts)  Public 
Library. 

Another  document  sent  by  the  English  town  twenty-five 
years  later  hangs  in  the  Mayor's  ofhce  in  the  City  Hall  of  our 
Haverhill. 


82 


HAVERHILL,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  J.  H.  Godden        Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

SHIELD    SENT    BY    HAVERHILL,    MASSACHU- 
SETTS, TO  HAVERHILL,  ENGLAND,  IN  1890, 

where  it  now  hangs  in  the  Town  Hall.  It  is  made  of 
wood  from  an  old  oak  tree  that  grew  on  the  place  in 
Haverhill  where  Whittier  was  born. 


afford  real  pleasure  not  only  to  myself 
but  to  the  people  whom  I  have  the 
honor  to  represent  to  have  Old  Haver- 
hill over  the  sea  represented  on  that 
occasion,  I  take  great  pleasure  in  ex- 
tending to  you  the  freedom  of  the  city 
during  that  event,  and  in  inviting 
yourself  and  lady  to  be  the  guests  of 
the  city  on  that  occasion. 

Hoping  that  you  will  favor  us  with 
your  presence,  and  that  we  shall  receive 
an  early  acceptance  of  the  formal  invi- 
tation that  will  be  forwarded  to  your 
Honor  in  a  few  days, 

I  am  yours  truly, 

Thomas  E.  Biirnham, 

Mayor  of  Haverhill,  Mass.  U.S.A." 

The  Englishman  brought  with  him 
the  following  congratulatory  ad- 
dress, very  attractively  gotten  up 
and  signed  by  the  town  officers, 
ministers  and  citizens  of  his  town; 
it  is  now  in  our  Haverhill  Public 
Library : — 

"To    THE    HONOURABLE    THE    MaYOR, 

THE  City  Council  and  citizens 
OF  Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  in 
THE  United  States  of  America: 


We,  the  undersigned  local  authori- 
ties, public  officers,  and  citizens  of  the 
ancient  mother  town  of  Haverhill,  in  the  counties  of  Suffolk  and  Essex,  in  England,  desire 
to  convey  to  you  our  friendly  greeting  and  hearty  congratulation  upon  the  celebration  of 
the  250th  anniversary  of  the  settlement,  in  the  year  a.d.  1640,  by  John  Ward,  a  native  of 
this  place,  and  others  who  accompanied  him  from  the  Old  World  to  the  New.  We  thank 
you  for  the  opportunity  of  being  represented  on  this  auspicious  occasion,  not  merely  as 
an  acknowledgment  of  the  natural  tie  which  exists  between  our  respective  communities, 
but  also  as  a  proof  of  the  kindly  spirit  which  prevails  on  your  side  towards  us  here.  We 
assure  you  that  your  good  will  is  most  cordially  reciprocated,  and  that  we  highly  appre- 
ciate the  kind  invitation  extended  to  us  through  our  representative;  and  we  trust  that 
his  visit  may  still  further  promote  friendly  relations  of  an  abiding  kind.  We  rejoice  with 
you  at  the  continued  progress  of  your  city,  and  earnestly  hope  that  it  is  destined  to  enjoy 
still  greater  prosperity,  so  that  its  future  may  be  even  brighter  than  its  past,  and  that  it 
may  steadily  grow  in  everything  conducive  to  the  welfare  of  its  citizens  and  the  advance- 
ment of  our  common  civilization. 

Dated  this  27th  day  of  May,  1890." 

In  recognition  of  the  courtesy  shown  by  the  English  town  and  in  memory  of  the 
visit  of  Mr.  Gurteen  and  his  daughter,  our  city  of  Haverhill  sent  to  the  English 


HAVERHILL,   MASSACHUSETTS 


83 


town  a  medallion,  a  shield  in 
the  form  of  the  coat  of  arms 
of  the  Commonwealth  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, carved  in  wood 
from  an  old  oak  tree  that 
grew  on  the  place  in  Haver- 
hill where  Whittier  was  born, 
with  the  city  seal  in  the  center 
and  smaller  carved  medallions 
in  the  corners.  It  now  hangs 
in  the  Town  Hall  of  the  Eng- 
lish Haverhill.  An  album  was 
also  sent  to  Mr.  Gurteen  con- 
taining photographs  of  some 
of  the  prominent  citizens  of 
the  Massachusetts  city.  Hon. 
William  H.  Moody,  afterwards 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  Attor- 
ney-General and  Justice  of 
the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
United  States,  was  one  of  the 
Committee  appointed  to  pre- 
sent these  gifts.  These  presents 
were  received  with  a  great  deal 
of  ceremony  at  a  large  recep- 
tion held  in  the  Town  Hall 
and  acknowledgment  was  sent 
to  our  city  later.  Details  of 
these  English  proceedings  and 
of  the  Haverhill  celebration 
are  given  in  "The  Story  of  a 
New  England  Town"  pub- 
lished in  1 89 1,  which  gives  all 
the  correspondence  and  an  ac- 
count of  Mr.  Gurteen 's  visit, 
with  copies  of  articles  from 
the  papers  of  Haverhill,  Eng- 
land. The  Haverhill  Public 
Library  treasures  several  auto- 
graphed letters  of  Mr.  Gurteen 
which  were  sent  to  residents 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  John  G.  Moulton,  Esq. 


MEMORIAL     TABLET    IN    THE     PARISH     CHURCH, 
HAVERHILL,  ENGLAND, 

erected  to  Rev.  John  Ward,  grandfather  of  Rev.  John  Ward 
who  was  the  first  minister  of  Haverhill,  Massachusetts.  A 
drawing  made  from  the  original  tablet  is  owned  by  the  Haver- 
hill, Massachusetts,  Public  Library,  and  is  loaned  to  the 
Haverhill  Historical  Society.     The  inscription  is  in  the  text. 

Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  was  so  named  in  honour  of  Rev. 
John  Ward,  who,  born  in  the  town  of  the  same  name  in  Eng- 
land, settled  on  the  banks  of  the  Merrimac  soon  after  1640. 


84  HAVERHILL,   MASSACHUSETTS 

of  Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  in  1891  and  1892,  and  it  also  has  received  news- 
papers, books  and  other  presents  which  have  come  across  the  ocean  as  gifts 
from  the  English  Haverhill.  On  the  occasion  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth 
anniversary,  cables  were  interchanged  between  the  two  Haverhills  and  at  the 
anniversary  banquet  an  address  was  made  by  Hon.  Leverett  Saltonstall  of 
Boston,  a  descendant  of  Richard  Saltonstall,  who  was  very  active  in  the  early 
days  of  our  Haverhill  and  who  was  descended  from  Rev.  John  Ward,  Nathaniel 
Saltonstall  having  married  a  daughter  of  John  Ward.  Whittier  wrote  a  poem 
for  the  occasion  which  was  read  at  the  literary  exercises,  in  which  he  alluded  to 
old  Haverhill,  as  follows: — 

"We  see,  their  rude-built  huts  beside, 
Grave  men  and  women  anxious-eyed. 
And  wistful  youth  remembering  still 
Dear  homes  in  England's  Haverhill." 

In  1915  when  our  Haverhill  commemorated  its  two  hundred  and  seventy-fifth 
anniversary,  there  was  another  exchange  of  greetings  between  the  two  Haverhills 
and  at  this  time  the  Enghsh  town  sent  a  very  attractive  document  which  has  been 
framed  and  which  now  hangs  in  the  Mayor's  Office,  City  Hall.  Hon.  Albert  L. 
Bartlett  was  Mayor  of  our  Haverhill  at  that  time  and  wrote  an  account  of  old 
Haverhill  in  which  we  have  found  much  of  interest.  The  first  part  of  the  name  is 
derived  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  "hoefer"  meaning  a  "he-goat."  In  the  old  records 
the  name  is  spelled  "Haverell"  or  "HaverhuU."  The  town  is  situated  partly  in 
Essex  County  and  partly  in  Suffolk  County,  about  fifty-five  miles  northeast  of 
London  and  not  far  from  Cambridge,  High  Street  which  runs  through  the  town 
being  part  of  an  old  Roman  road  connecting  Cambridge  and  Colchester.  Into 
this  settlement  the  Huguenot,  or  Flemish,  exiles  brought  the  art  of  weaving  three 
hundred  and  more  years  ago  and  on  their  hand  looms  was  first  woven  the  coarse 
homespun  cloth  of  Hnen  and  wool.  From  these  humble  beginnings,  however,  have 
grown  the  present  mills,  employing  many  hundreds  of  operatives.  The  town  is 
partly  a  manufacturing  and  partly  an  agricultural  center  and  withal  a  market 
town;  its  annals,  although  interesting,  contain  no  events  of  national  importance. 
Messrs.  Gurteen  and  Sons  are  the  leading  manufacturers  of  the  Enghsh  town, 
employing  in  their  textile  plant  more  than  half  of  the  population  of  forty-five  hun- 
dred persons  Hving  there.  The  Town  Hall  was  built  in  1883  by  the  late  Daniel 
Gurteen  to  commemorate  his  golden  wedding  and  it  was  in  this  hall  that  the  gifts 
sent  to  Haverhill,  England,  in  September,  1890,  were  exhibited.  Unfortunately 
the  early  records  of  the  town  perished  in  the  fire  of  1665. 

In  1881  Rev.  F.  T.  Ingalls,  a  native  of  Haverhill,  Massachusetts,  visited  the 
Enghsh  Haverhill  and  wrote  a  letter  describing  the  place,  which  was  pubUshed  in 
one  of  the  newspapers  of  our  city. 


HAVERHILL,  MASSACHUSETTS 


85 


From  a  photosrapk 


Kindness  John  G.  Moulton,  Esq. 


PARISH  CHURCH,  HAVERHILL,  ENGLAND, 


in  which  the  original  tablet,  shown  in  another  illustration,  has  been  placed  in  memory  of  R^^';  J^^^  ^ard, 
"ranSer  offerjohn  Ward,  first  minister  of  Haverhill,  Massachusetts.  Th.s  picture  is  m  the  Haverh.U 
Public  Library,  Haverhill,  Massachusetts. 

The  Indian  name  for  the  site  of  our  city  was  'Tentucket"  and  when  it  was 
settled  in  1640  it  was  named  HaverhiU  in  honour  of  its  first  mmister,  Rev.  John 
Ward,  mentioned  above,  who  was  bom  in  HaverhiU,  England,  in  1606  and  who 
was  the  son  of  Rev.  Nathaniel  Ward,  first  minister  of  our  Ipswich.  The  home 
of  John  Ward,  afterwards  owned  by  the  Saltonstalls,  and  the  first  framed  house 
in  the  town  (now  a  city),  is  still  preserved  on  the  exact  spot  on  which  it  was  orig- 
inally built  in  the  sixteen  hundred  and  forties,  on  the  grounds  of  the  Haverhill 
Historical  Society.  Over  the  mantel  of  the  old  house  is  a  tablet  which  gives  the 
history  of  the  house  and  of  the  Saltonstall  family  and  which  also  commemorates 
the  fact  that  it  was  given  to  the  Historical  Society  in  memory  of  that  family.  In  the 
Historical  Society  is  a  painting  of  the  memorial  tablet  to  John  Ward's  grandfather 
copied  from  the  original  in  the  Parish  Church  in  Haverhill,  England,  the  wordmg 
being  as  follows: — 


86 


HAVERHILL,  MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  George  Francis  Dow,  Est. 

WITHERSFIELD   ROAD,   HAVERHILL,   ENGLAND 

John  Warde  after  he  with  great  evidence  & 
power  of  ye  spirit  &  with  much  fruit  preached 
ye  gospel  at  Haveril  &  Bury  in  Suff*^  25 
yeares  was  heere  gathered  to  his  fathers 
Susan  his  widdowe  married  Richard  Rogers 
that  worthie  Pastor  of  Wethersfielde.     He 
left  3  sonnes  Samuel  Nathaniel  John  preachers 
who  for  them  &  theirs  wish  no  greater  blessinge 
than  yt  they  may  continue  in  beleeveing 
and  preaching  the  same  Gospel  till  ye  comming 
of  Christ     Come  Lord  Jesus  come  quicklye 

There  is  also  a  Haverhill  in  New  Hampshire  which  took  its  name  from  Haver- 
hill, Massachusetts,  for  the  reason  that  the  first  white  persons  who  permanently 
occupied  its  territory  came  from  that  town  about  1761. 


87 


HULL,  MASSACHUSETTS 


HULL,  Massachusetts,  was  undoubtedly  named  for  Hull,  England.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  the  passengers  on  the  "Mary  and  John"  were  put 
ashore  here  at  Nantasket  Point,  her  captain  leaving  the  "  Godly  families 
from  Devonshire  and  Dorsetshire"  to  shift  for  themselves.  Roger  Clap  later  on 
took  some  of  his  shipmates  up  the  river  to  Watertown.  Among  the  first  permanent 
settlers  of  our  Hull  was  John  Prince,  an  exile  in  Cromwell's  day. 

Hull,  England,  officially  known  as  Kings ton-upon-Hull,  is  the  third  port  of 
the  United  Kingdom,  and  was  founded  by  King  Edward  I  in  1296.  From  1598 
to  1865  this  seaport  engaged  in  the  whale  fishery,  and  has  the  distinction  of  being 
the  first  port  to  dispatch  to  the  fishing  grounds  a  steam-whaler,  which  was  called 
the  Diana. 

This  city  has  several  features  of  historical  interest,  mainly  connected  with 
the  struggle  for  civil  and  rehgious  freedom  in  the  seventeenth  century.  At  the 
opening  of  the  contest  between  Charles  I  and  his  parliament  the  King  failed  in  his 
attempt  to  win  over  the  city  of  York  and,  indeed,  narrowly  escaped  capture.  He 
fled  in  haste  to  Hull,  confidently  expecting  its  gates  to  open  to  him  and  to  have 
there  a  base  for  further  operations.  A  severe  blow  was  dealt  at  the  royalist  cause 
when  the  citizens  stoutly  refused  entrance  to  him,  closed  the  gates,  and  declared 
for  the  Parliament. 

James  II,  perhaps  in  revenge  for  his  father's  rebuff,  took  from  the  city  its  charter 
and  everything  else  he  could  lay  his  hands  on,  just  as  he  did  from  London,  when 
the  Lord  Mayor  of  that  City  was  so  overcome  that  he  fell  upon  his  knees  crying 
cynically,  "Will  your  Majesty  please  leave  us  the  Thames?  "  This,  like  all  James' 
arbitrary  acts,  was  reversed  when  William  of  Orange  ascended  the  throne  with 
Queen  Mary. 

It  is  not  as  widely  known  as  it  should  be  how  closely  Hull  was  associated  with 
the  Pilgrim  Fathers.  The  earliest  exiles  for  religious  liberty  were  drawn  from 
Gainsborough  and  its  neighborhood,  little  more  than  thirty  miles  from  Hull. 
Their  immediate  objective  was  Holland,  for  which  country  there  were  two  possible 
places  of  embarkation — Boston  and  the  estuary  of  the  Humber.  In  1609  they 
made  the  attempt  by  Boston,  were  betrayed  by  a  ship's  captain,  arrested  and  cast 
into  prison.  Being  eventually  Hberated,  they  repeated  the  venture  the  following 
year,  led  by  John  Bradford,  the  future  Governor,  and  Elder  Brewster.  This  time 
they  were,  at  least,  partially  successful.  Their  leaders  escaped  from  a  creek  op- 
posite Hull  and  the  rest  followed  later  in  separate  groups,  mostly  from  the  same 
estuary. 

Amongst  the  most  courageous  and  determined  of  the  Pilgrims  who  twelve  years 
later  sailed  from  Delf  shaven  were  those  who  had  come  from  the  Gainsborough  district. 

From  Hull  sailed  the  Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers,  Rector  of  the  nearby  village  of 


88 


HULL,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Ttirner  &*  Drinkwater 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 


HULL,  ENGLAND, 

showing  Princes  Dock.     Hull  is  the  third  port  of  importance  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

Rowley,  who  is  described  under  our  article  on  that  place.  Along  with  Rogers 
sailed  the  greater  portion  of  his  congregation.  William  Penn  also  made  Hull  his 
port  of  departure. 

Andrew  Marvell,  patriot,  wit  and  satirist  as  well  as  earnest  Puritan,  whose 
statue  now  occupies  an  honoured  place  in  the  city,  was  the  son  of  a  Puritan  clergy- 
man of  Hull.  He  became  Latin  Secretary  to  Cromwell,  along  with  John  Milton, 
and  represented  Hull  in  Parliament  from  1660  to  the  end  of  his  life  in  1678. 

In  still  later  days  Hull  was  the  birthplace  and  home  of  William  Wilberforce, 
whose  name  will  ever  be  associated  with  the  abolition  of  slavery  in  the  British 
dominions.  His  residence,  once  the  home  of  a  Puritan  Mayor  of  the  city,  is  still 
preserved  in  its  original  state.  It  is  now  used  as  a  museum  and  is  full  of  deeply 
interesting  mementos  both  of  the  slave  trade  and  the  city's  history.  Wilberforce's 
memorial — a  lofty  pillar  on  a  massive  pediment  crowned  with  his  statue — is  in 
the  very  heart  of  the  city. 

In  prehistoric  times  the  district  embracing  Hull  was  inhabited  by  a  race  of 
Celts  called  "Dolicho-Cephaloid,"  these  Greek  words  merely  meaning  "Long- 
Heads,"  still  a  characteristic  of  Yorkshiremen.  Then  came  the  Brigantes,  or  high- 
landers,  named  in  Juvenal  as  the  most  numerous  and  important  of  the  British 
tribes,  which  were  the  last  of  the  ancient  Britons  to  submit  to  the  Romans. 


HULL,   MASSACHUSETTS  89 

At  a  meeting  held  in  Hull,  England,  recently,  a  fund,  the  equivalent  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  was  raised  for  the  erection  of  a  monument  at  Killing- 
holme  to  commemorate  the  spot  whence  most  of  the  Pilgrims  left  for  Holland. 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS 

"  I  love  to  think  of  old  Ipswich  town, 

Old  Ipswich  town  in  the  East  countree, 
Whence,  on  the  tide,  you  can  float  down 

Through  the  long  salt  grass  to  the  wailing  sea, 
Where  the  '  Mayflower  '  drifted  off  the  bar, 

Sea-worn  and  weary,  long  years  ago, 
And  dared  not  enter,  but  sailed  away 
Till  she  landed  her  boats  in  Plymouth  Bay. 

I  love  to  think  of  old  Ipswich  town; 

Where  they  shut  up  the  witches  until  the  day 
When  they  should  be  roasted  so  thoroughly  brown. 

In  Salem  village,  twelve  miles  away; 
They've  moved  it  off  for  a  stable  now; 

But  there  are  the  holes  where  the  stout  jail  stood, 
And  at  night,  they  say,  that  over  the  holes 
You  can  see  the  ghost  of  Goody  Coles. 

I  love  to  think  of  old  Ipswich  town; 

That  house  to  your  right,  a  rod  or  more, 
Where  the  stern  old  elm  trees  seem  to  frown 

If  you  peer  too  hard  through  the  open  door. 
Sheltered  the  regicide  judges  three 

When  the  royal  sheriffs  were  after  them, 
And  a  queer  old  villager  once  I  met. 
Who  says,  in  the  cellar,  they're  Hving  yet. 

I  love  to  think  of  old  Ipswich  town; 

There's  a  graveyard  up  on  the  old  High  Street, 
Where  ten  generations  are  looking  down 

On  the  one  that  is  toihng  at  their  feet; 
Where  the  stones  stand  shoulder  to  shoulder,  Hke  troops 

Drawn  up  to  receive  a  cavalry  charge. 
And  graves  have  been  dug  in  graves,  till  the  sod 
Is  the  mould  of  good  men  gone  to  God." 
(The  above  are  some  of  the  verses  of  a  poem  written  by  James  Appleton  Morgan,  entitled  "Ipswich 
Town.") 

THERE  are  probably  few  residents  of  Ipswich,  Massachusetts,  who  are  aware 
of  the  fact  that  the  clock  now  in  the  Chapel  of  the  First  Church,  marked 
"Moore,  Ipswich,"  was  a  present  sent  by  the  English  town  from  which  Ips- 
wich got  its  name.  It  was  sent  over,  together  with  some  photographs  of  old  Ipswich, 
by  Sir  Daniel  Goddard  of  the  Congregational  Church  of  Ipswich,  England,  just 


90 


IPSWICH,  MASSACHUSETTS 


after  the  celebration  of  the  two 
hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary 
of  the  incorporation  of  the  Mas- 
sachusetts town  held  in  1884,  and 
with  it  came  a  cable  of  congratu- 
lations given  below.  Sir  Daniel 
Goddard,  M.P.,  was  a  guest  of 
the  town,  and  only  a  short  time 
ago  Hon.  William  F.  Paul,  for- 
merly Mayor  of  old  Ipswich,  sent 
to  the  Historical  Society  of  the 
Massachusetts  town  several  vol- 
umes of  illustrations  of  ancient 
buildings  of  his  town  and  an 
elaborate  portfolio  containing  a 
copy  of  the  proclamation  of  King 
Edward  VII.  In  return  the  new 
Ipswich  sent  a  history  of  the 
town  written  by  the  late  Rev. 
Thomas  Franklin  Waters,  A.M., 
President  of  the  Historical  So- 
ciety. On  the  anniversary  of 
the  Massachusetts  town,  above 
referred  to,  in  1884,  a  letter  was 
read  from  the  Mayor  of  Ipswich, 
England,  part  of  which  is  as 
follows : — 

' '  I  regret  it  is  not  in  my  power  to  be 
present  at  the  celebration  of  the  two 
hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
the  incorporation  of  the  town  of 
Ipswich,  Mass.,  as  my  mayoralty  duties  entirely  prevent  my  being  absent  from  home 
for  any  long  period  during  my  year  of  office.  I  should  have  returned  thanks  for  old 
Ipswich  among  some  of  the  descendants  of  those  who  emigrated  from  their  native  land 
in  order  that  they  might  have  freedom  to  carry  out  their  political  and  religious  opinions, 
which  was  denied  them  in  England.  .  .  .  Wishing  that  your  enterprising  town  may 
increase  and  prosper,  and  ever  be  celebrated  for  its  civil  and  religious  Uberty. 

Yours  faithfully, 

John  May,  Mayor  of  Ipswich,  England. 
To  John  Heard,  Esq.,  of  the  Committee  of  Arrangements." 

The  following  was  the  cable  received  from  the  Corporation  of  Ipswich,  conveying 
congratulations : — 


Photographed  by  George  G.  Dexter,  Ipswich,  Massachusetts 
Kindness  Francis  R.  Appleton,  Esq.,  Joseph  I.  Norton,  Esq.  and  the  late 

T.  Franklin  Waters 

CLOCK    PRESENTED    TO    THE    FIRST     CHURCH 
OF  IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS, 

by  Sir   Daniel   Goddard   of   the    Congregational    Club   of 
Ipswich,  England,  in  1884. 


IPSWICH,  MASSACHUSETTS 


91 


From  an  old  print 


Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 


ST.  MATTHEW'S   GATE,   IPSWICH,    SUFFOLK,   ENGLAND 


"Aug.  15,  1884. 
The  Corporation  of  Ipswich,  England,  send  their  hearty  congratulations  to  the  Corpora- 
tion of  Ipswich,  Mass.,  on  the  celebration  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
their  incorporation,  and  wish  them  continued  prosperity. 

Mayor  of  Ipswich,  England." 

This  letter  and  cablegram  were  both  read  at  the  celebration,  an  answering  cable 
being  sent  as  follows: — 

"The  town  of  Ipswich,  celebrating  its  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary,  sends  thanks 
to  Mother  Ipswich  for  her  kindly  greeting  and  best  wishes  for  her  continued  prosperity." 

The  most  recent  visitor  from  the  English  Ipswich  was  Rev.  John  A.  Patten, 
minister  of  the  Tacket  Street  Congregational  Church,  of  which  one  of  the  congre- 
gation is  Arthur  Goddard,  son  of  Sir  Daniel,  who  has  always  taken  such  a  great 
interest  in  the  New  England  Ipswich. 

The  English  Ipswich  was  a  great  coaching  center  and  the  Bull  Inn,  Whitechapel, 
London,  was  one  of  the  taverns  at  which  the  Ipswich  coaches  put  up  for  the  night. 
It  was  from  there  that  Mr.  Pickwick  set  out,  who  quotes  Tony  Weller  as  saying 
just  before  the  coach  left  the  courtyard,  "Take  care  o'  the  archway,  genTmen." 
This  Inn  for  a  long  time  belonged  to  the  Nelson  family,  which  was  a  noted  race  of  inn 
and  coach  proprietors,  and  at  one  time  was  managed  by  Mrs.  Ann  Nelson  upon  the 


92 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Frnm  a  -phntn^raph  by  W.  Do-unfs  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

GREAT   WHITE  HORSE   HOTEL,  IPSWICH,  ENGLAND, 
of  Pickwick  fame.     A  model  was  sent  to  the  Chicago  Exposition. 

death  of  her  husband.  In  her  coaching  speculations  she  was  usually  associated  with 
a  pastry  cook  who  owned  a  Httle  shop  adjoining  the  gateway  of  the  "Bull,"  and 
who  often  complained  of  being  interrupted  in  his  work  when  a  new  hand  on  one  of 
the  coaches  sent  the  nose  of  one  of  his  leaders  through  his  shop  window,  the  gate 
being  very  narrow  and  Mrs.  Nelson's  coachmen  not  being  very  deliberate.  This 
woman  coach  proprietor  was  a  martinet,  and  spared  neither  herself  nor  her  servants, 
up  to  her  seventieth  year  being  the  last  up  at  night  and  the  first  up  in  the  morning. 
Her  team  of  "Ipswich  Blues,"  as  they  were  called,  was  famous  even  after  an  opposi- 
tion coach  was  started.  The  proprietress  insisted  on  rigid  punctuahty,  and  if  a 
coachman  brought  one  of  her  crack  coaches  into  the  yard  five  minutes  late,  he 
received  a  severe  reprimand;  if  he  were  ten  minutes  late,  he  was  fined  half  a  crown; 
and  if  he  were  one-quarter  of  an  hour  late,  he  stood  a  good  chance  of  being  dis- 
missed from  service.  Once  when  she  was  called  into  Court,  the  Chairman  of  the 
Bench  said  to  her,  "I  understand  that  you  give  your  coachmen  instructions  to  race 
the  rival  coach."  "Not  exactly,"  she  replied.  "My  orders  to  them  are  simply 
that  they  are  to  get  the  road  and  keep  it."  Towards  the  year  1830,  there  was  a 
whisper  of  coming  changes,  and  the  coachmen  and  travelers  talked  in  the  stable- 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS  -^  93 

yard  and  in  the  cozy  rooms  of  the  "Bull"  of  men  with  strange  instruments  encount- 
ered along  the  road;  "chaps  with  telescopes  on  three  sticks  and  other  chaps  with 
chains  and  things  measuring  the  fields."  The  Eastern  Counties  Railway  was 
being  projected  to  run  from  London  to  Colchester,  Norwich  and  Yarmouth,  and 
the  days  of  the  coaches  were  to  be  no  longer. 

Ipswich  is  the  front  door  of  East  Anglia,  which  means  the  eastern  part  of  Eng- 
land. It  was  here  that  Daniel  Defoe,  the  author  of  "Robinson  Crusoe,"  stayed 
for  a  short  time,  mentioning  that  he  found  "very  agreeable  and  improving  com- 
pany almost  of  every  kind."  Here  is  the  Great  White  Horse  Tavern  where  Pick- 
wick accidentally  encountered  the  elderly  lady  in  the  yellow  curl-papers;  his  bed- 
room No.  36  is  still  preserved,  and  although  the  Tavern  has  been  much  changed, 
over  the  entrance  still  stands  the  "white  painted  stone  statue  of  some  rampageous 
animal  with  flowing  mane  and  tail,  distantly  resembhng  an  insane  cart-horse." 
Dickens  does  not  give  a  very  favorable  description  of  this  Tavern,  for  he  stated 
that 

"the  Great  White  Horse  is  famous  in  the  neighborhood  in  the  same  degree  as  a  prize  ox, 
or  county  paper-chronicled  turnip  or  unwieldy  pig — for  its  enormous  size." 

This  amusing  account  of  the  place,  however,  made  it  all  the  more  popular.  King 
George  II  visited  this  noted  Tavern  in  1736,  as  also  did  Louis  XVIII,  King  of 
France,  as  he  passed  through  the  town.  It  may  be  interesting  to  Americans  to 
know  that  a  model  of  this  building  was  exhibited  at  the  Chicago  World's  Fair, 
The  greatest  treasure,  however,  possessed  by  Ipswich  is  "The  Ancient  House,"  in 
the  Buttermarket,  in  which  King  Charles  II  sought  refuge  when  he  was  flee- 
ing from  the  Parhamentary  Army.  Cardinal  Wolsey  was  born  in  Ipswich,  and 
connected  with  the  town  are  the  names  of  Clara  Reeves;  Gainsborough,  the  artist, 
who  Hved  there  for  some  time;  also  David  Garrick,  the  actor,  who  made  his  debut 
there  in  1740.  The  Duke  of  Buckingham,  known  as  the  "Great  Duke,"  visited 
the  town,  which  is  really  most  attractive,  but  his  account  of  it  was  not  very  inspir- 
ing, for  he  wrote  that  it  "was  a  town  without  inhabitants,  a  river  without  water, 
streets  without  names,  and  where  the  asses  wore  boots."  It  used  to  be  called 
Gippeswiche  from  the  river  Gipping  and  "Wick"  meaning  creek  or  haven  for  ships. 
Captain  John  Smith  mentioned  our  Agawam  as  early  as  16 14,  stating  that 
Prince  Charles  changed  its  name  to  Southampton  and  this  name  actually  appears 
on  Smith's  map.  The  first  real  history  of  our  Ipswich,  called  on  the  seal  of  the 
town  "Birthplace  of  American  Independence,"  began  in  1620  when  we  learn  that 
some  of  the  Pilgrim  colony,  before  settling  here  "urged  greatly  the  going  to  Angoan, 
Anguum  or  Angoum,  meaning  'Agawam'  a  place  twenty  leagues  off  to  the  north- 
ward which  they  heard  to  be  an  excellent  harbour  for  ships,  better  ground  and  bet- 
ter fishing."  Of  course,  in  respect  to  the  harbour  they  were  very  much  mistaken. 
Ten  years  later  a  messenger  was  sent  to  Agawam  with  a  message  saying  "a  war- 


From  a  photograph  by  W.  Dowries 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Ru 


THE  ANCIENT  HOUSE,   IPSWICH,   ENGLAND, 
in  which  King  Charles  II  sought  refuge  when  he  was  fleeing  from  the  ParUamentary  Army.     It  is  one  of 

the  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the  town. 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS  95 

rant  shall  be  presently  sent  to  Agawam  for  those  planted  there,  to  come  away." 
Three  years  later  we  learn  that  the  Court  of  Assistance  ordered  that  a  plantation 
be  begun  here  as  it  was  the  best  place  in  the  land  for  tillage  and  cattle,  lest  an 
enemy  finding  it  should  take  possession  from  them.  John  Winthrop,  Jr.,  was 
instructed  to  undertake  the  settlement  and  it  was  suggested  that  twelve  men 
should  go  with  him  to  assist  him.  In  1634,  Rev.  Nathaniel  Ward,  the  son  of  John 
Ward,  of  Ipswich,  England,  and  his  friends,  came  to  the  town  and  ordered  the 
name  changed  to  Ipswich,  after  the  town  of  the  same  name  in  England,  in  honour 
of  Ward  and  also  "in  acknowledgment  of  the  great  honour  and  kindness  done  to 
our  people  who  took  shipping  there."  The  Court  believed  that  the  town  was  large 
enough  to  give  up  the  Indian  name.  Another  reason  for  the  change  in  name  was 
the  resemblance  of  the  approach  to  our  Ipswich  to  the  territory  near  old  Ipswich 
on  the  river  Orwell. 

Nathaniel  Ward  bore  one  of  the  best  known  names  in  the  early  history  of  New 
England,  having  been  born  in  Haverhill,  England,  in  1570,  where  his  father 
had  been  a  clergyman.  It  is  interesting  also  to  mention  that  he  was  granted  six 
hundred  acres  of  land  by  the  General  Court  in  Haverhill  in  Massachusetts,  then 
called  "Pentucket,"  where  his  son  was  later  a  minister.  He  wrote  several  books, 
the  best  known  being  called  "The  Simple  Cobler  of  Aggawam  in  America,"  which 
was  meant  to  be  a  lesson  to  the  early  colonists  and  to  accompHsh  his  purpose  he 
chose  to  write  about  the  cobbler,  describing  him  as 

"willing  to  mend  his  Native  Country,  lamentably  tattoed,  both  in  the  upper  leather  and 
sole,  with  all  the  honest  stitches  he  can  take." 

Nathaniel  Rogers,  who  was  also  born  in  Haverhill,  England,  was  another  promi- 
nent person  in  the  early  history  of  our  Ipswich.  The  Rogers  family  held  a  place 
of  great  distinction  both  in  this  town  and  in  the  Colony,  John  Rogers,  the  son  of 
Rev.  Nathaniel  Rogers,  becoming  President  of  Harvard  College  while  the  grandson 
of  Rev.  Nathaniel,  also  named  John,  was  a  minister  at  Ipswich.  Therefore,  grand- 
father and  grandson  between  them  held  the  pastorate  of  the  Ipswich  Church  for 
seventy  years. 

The  Ipswich  Historical  Society  has  erected  tablets  in  a  small  triangle  in  the 
South  Common,  in  memory  of  Nathaniel  Ward,  Nathaniel  Rogers  and  Richard 
Saltonstall,  another  early  settler,  and  two  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  south  side  of 
the  tablet,  which  stands  in  front  of  the  South  Church,  read  as  follows: — 

ON  THE  EAST  SIDE  OF  THE  COMMON 

WAS  THE  HOUSE  OF 

REV.  NATHANIEL  WARD 

1634        MINISTER  OF  IPSWICH        1 63  7 

AUTHOR  OF 

"the  SIMPLE  COBLER  OF  AGGAWAM " 

COMPILER  OF 

THE  BODY  OF  LIBERTIES 


96 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Gf 


'S  Francis  R.  Appleton,  Esq., 
and  Joseph  I.  Norton,  Esq. 


TABLET     ON     THE     SOUTH     GREEN,     IPSWICH, 

MASSACHUSETTS, 

placed  there  in  memory  of  Ezekiel  Cheever,  first  master  of 
the  Grammar  School;  also  as  a  memorial  of  Rev.  Nathaniel 
Ward's  first  house  nearby,  and  also  to  commemorate  the 
early  houses  of  Richard  Saltonstall  and  Rev.  Nathaniel 
Rogers,  both  early  settlers  in  this  New  England  town. 


THE  RESIDENCE  OF 

RICHARD  SALTONSTALL 

WAS  ON  THE  SOUTH  SIDE  OF  THE  COMMON 

AND  THAT  OF 

REV.  NATHANIEL  ROGERS 

PASTOR  OF  IPSWICH  CHURCH 

1638-1655 

WAS  ON  THE  WEST  SIDE 

The  oldest  house  in  the  town, 
now  known  as  the  Burnham 
House,  was  built  in  1640  by 
Thomas  Hart  of  England,  soon 
after  his  arrival  in  this  country. 
Several  of  the  old  rooms  are  still 
in  their  original  condition  and 
afford  much  interest  to  the  sight- 
seer who  stops  here. 

One  of  the  streets  of  Ipswich 
which  leads  from  the  town  to 
Castle  Hill,  the  place  originally 
granted  to  John  Winthrop,  Jr., 
now  owned  by  Richard  T.  Crane 
of  Chicago,  is  called  ''Argilla 
Road,"  after  the  estate  in  Eng- 
land owned  by  the  Symonds 
family  which  settled  here.  The 
present  High  Street  was  once 
called  Pudding  Street,  the 
origin  of  its  name  being  told 
in  a  legendary  poem  written 
by   J.   K.   F.:- 


'I  can  remember  very  well 
A  tale  the  old  folks  used  to  tell, 
Of  how  a  street,  well  known  to  fame, 
Received  its  somewhat  curious  name. 
The  oven,  then,  so  long  ago. 
Was  bailt  outside  the  house,  and  so 
While  the  good  wife  was  getting  dinner. 
There  came  along  a  tramping  sinner. 
Who,  having  not  the  fear  of  man, 
Opened  the  oven  door  and  ran. 
The  pudding  had  so  much  of  heat. 
He  quickly  dropped  it  in  the  street. 


IPSWICH,   MASSACHUSETTS  97 

And  fearing  in  that  place  to  stay, 
Kicked  it  before  him  on  his  way. 
The  pudding  bag,  so  stout  at  first, 
By  violence  at  last  was  burst, 
And  ever  since  that  wicked  feat, 
The  thoroughfare  is  Pudding  Street." 

Another  fact  of  interest  to  Americans  and  Britons  alike  is  that  the  ancestors 
of  the  late  Joseph  H.  Choate  lived  in  Ipswich,  Massachusetts,  a  member  of  the 
family  still  residing  here  near  the  town  on  Hog  Island,  often  referred  to  as  Choate 
Island,  which  is  also  owned  by  Richard  T.  Crane  of  Chicago. 

The  town  of  Ipswich  is  responsible  for  the  settlements  of  Chebacco,  which  when 
incorporated  was  called  Essex;  and  Hamilton,  which  was  first  called  "The  Hamlet." 


LANCASTER,  MASSACHUSETTS 

IN  1 9 13  the  mother  town  of  Lancaster  sent  the  following  message  of  good  wishes 
to  her  daughter  on  this  side  of  the  ocean: — 
"TO 
The  Selectmen,  Officials  and  Inhabitants  of  the  Town  of  Lancaster,  Mas- 
sachusetts. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Town  Council  of  the  Borough  of  Lancaster  in  the  County  of  Lan- 
caster England  held  on  Wednesday  the  24th  day  of  September  1913  the  following  resolu- 
tion was  passed  unanimously: — 

'That  the  Mayor,  Aldermen  and  Burgesses  of  the  Borough  of  Lancaster  in  Council 
assembled  heartily  reciprocated  on  behalf  of  the  Burgesses  and  Inhabitants  of  this 
County  Town  the  greetings  so  well  expressed  in  the  resolution  of  the  daughter  Town 
of  Lancaster  Massachusetts  .  .  .  and  wish  that  all  prosperity  may  in  the  future 
attend  the  Selectmen,  Officials  and  Inhabitants  of  that  Town.' 

The  Common  seal  of  the  Corporation  of 
Lancaster  England  was  hereunto  affixed 
in  the  presence  of 
C.  F.  Seward,  Mayor.'" 

Some  authorities  claim  that  Edward  Breck  was  the  earliest  settler  in  this 
Bay  State  town,  but  such  is  not  the  case,  for  this  honour  belongs  to  John  Pres- 
cott,  who  was  not  only  the  earliest  settler  here  but  was  also  the  founder  of 
the  town.  Others  interested  in  its  early  success  were  Thomas  King,  Harmon 
Garrett  of  Charlestown,  Thomas  Skidmore  of  Cambridge  and  Stephen  Daye, 
who,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  the  first  printer  in  Cambridge.  Prescott,  how- 
ever, was  the  only  one  to  take  up  his  residence  here.  They  expressed  the  wish 
that  the  town  should  be  called  "Prescott"  in  honour  of  John  Prescott  and  later 
suggested  it  might  be  named  "West  Town."  The  people  of  Lancaster  have 
remembered  the  founder  of  their  towm  by  a  slate  tablet  near  his  grave  in  Old 
Burying  Field  which  records  in  the  words  of  the  late  Senator  George  F.  Hoar: — 


98 


LANCASTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 


m      i- 


Photographed  from  a  print  Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 

SOUTH  VIEW  OF  THE  GATEWAY  TOWER  OF  LANCASTER  CASTLE,  LANCASTER, 

ENGLAND 

The  castle  is  the  chief  object  of  interest  in  Lancaster,  being  now  used  as  a  Jail. 

Here 

with  his  children  about  him  lies 

John  Prescott 

founder  of  Lancaster  and  first  settler 

of  Worcester  County 

'.  born  at  Standish,  Lancashire,  England 

Died  at  Lancaster,  Massachusetts,  December,  1681. 

Inspired  by  the  love  of  liberty  and  the  fear  of  God 

this  stout-hearted  pioneer 

forsaking  the  pleasant  vales  of  England 

took  up  his  abode  in  the  unbroken  forest 

and  encountered  wild  beast  and  savage 

to  secure  freedom 

for  himself  and  his  posterity. 

His  faith  and  virtues 

have  been  inherited  by  many  descendants 

who  in  every  generation  have  well  served  the  state 

in  war,  in  literature,  at  the  bar,  in  the  pulpit,  in  public  life, 

and  in  Christian  homes. 


LANCASTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 


99 


This  tablet  was  set  in  place  in 
time  for  the  two  hundred  and 
fiftieth  anniversary  of  Lancaster's 
incorporation,  in  1903.  In  this 
cemetery  are  also  the  graves  of 
Jonathan  Fairbanks,  formerly  of 
Dedham,  and  his  wife,  who  was 
Lydia  Prescott,  daughter  of  this 
first  settler,  their  marriage  being 
the  first  recorded  within  the  limits 
of  Lancaster.  One  year  after 
the  incorporation  of  the  town 
came  Rev.  Joseph  Rowlandson, 
then  John  Whiting,  and  later 
on,  in  1793,  Rev.  Nathaniel 
Thayer,  Edward  Hamilton 
Sears  and  George  M.  Bartol, 
whose  descendants  have  been 
prominent  citizens  of  Massa- 
chusetts. 

There  is  also  a  Lancaster  in 
New  Hampshire. 

Tradition  says  that  the  Eng- 
Hsh  Lancaster  was  once  a  Roman 
station  and  later  was  used  as  a 
fort  by  the  Saxons.  On  a  hill 
in  the  town  stands  Lancaster 
Church,  and  near  its  site  Agri- 
cola  more  than  two  thousand 
years  ago  planned  his  second 
year's  campaign  in  Britain  and  from  there  also  he  directed  the  march  of  his  Roman 
legions.  A  thousand  years  later  came  Roger  of  Poictou,  a  Norman  Baron,  who 
recognized  the  military  importance  of  the  town  and  erected  there  a  great  keep. 
In  later  years  the  town  for  two  centuries  was  the  center  of  Norman  chivalry;  it 
was  there,  too,  that  John  of  Gaunt  held  his  Court,  which  in  pomp  rivaled  that  of 
the  King  himself ;  it  was  from  there  also  that  many  edicts  of  great  importance  were 
issued,  and  through  its  castle  walls  rode  many  a  gallant  herald  carrying  tidings  of 
peace  or  war.  In  fact  few  towns  can  claim  a  greater  connection  with  royalty 
than  Lancaster. 

The  Scots  attacked  the  fortress  of  Lancaster  innumerable  times,  and  in  13 14, 
after  the  defeat  of  Edward  II  at  Bannockburn,  they  burned  the  town  and  succeeded 


PhiiVigraphed  hy  James  Macdonald 

PRESCOTT    TABLET    IN    OLD     BURYING-FIELD, 
LANCASTER,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

in  memory  of  John  Prescott  of  Lancashire,  England,  founder 
of  the  New  England  Lancaster,  and  first  settler  of  Worcester 
County. 


loo  LANCASTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 

in  partially  destroying  the  Castle.  During  the  Wars  of  the  Roses,  it  was  alter- 
nately occupied  by  both  parties  and  there  not  infrequently  monarchs  took  refuge. 
At  one  period  Court  was  held  there,,  parts  of  the  Castle  being  used  as  a  prison.  It 
was  in  17 15  that  the  prisoners  of  the  Castle,  climbing  to  the  parapets,  watched  and 
cheered  the  Scottish  Army  as  it  captured  the  town.  After  a  ceremony,  during 
which  the  Stuart  Pretender  was  proclaimed  King,  the  soldiers  dispersed  to  seek 
quarters,  and  a  council  was  held  that  night  to  decide  whether  the  prisoners  at  the 
Castle  should  be  released.  It  was  decided  to  set  free  those  on  the  Crown  side. 
On  the  following  day  the  officers,  after  attending  service  at  the  Lancaster  Church, 
"dressed  and  trimed  themselves  up  in  their  best  cloathes  for  to  drink  a  dish  of  tea 
with  the  Ladys  of  this  town."  We  are  told  that  "the  Ladys  also  here  appeared 
in  their  best  riging,  and  had  their  tea  tables  richly  furnished  for  to  entertain  their 
new  suitors."  It  is  further  related  that  the  swains  left  the  town  very  reluctantly, 
as  they  did  not  wish  to  part  with  their  new  loves.  The  last  hostile  army  to  enter 
Lancaster  was  that  of  Bonnie  Prince  Charlie,  known  as  the  Young  Pretender,  who 
marched  through  the  town  on  November  24,  1745. 


LINCOLN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

HISTORY  tells  us  that  the  part  of  England  between  the  Wash  and  the 
river  Humber,  whence  came  the  pioneers  of  our  Lincoln,  was  wrested 
from  the  Britons  and  occupied  by  the  tribe  of  Angs,  or  Angles,  from 
which  the  word  "England"  is  derived.  "Lindum  Coloniae"  (or  "Colonia")  was 
the  name  given  to  Lincoln  by  the  Romans,  who  while  possessing  it  surrounded  the 
place  by  strong  walls  and  made  it  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  Roman  power  in  that 
section  of  the  island.  During  the  Saxon  period  it  was  the  capital  of  Mercia  and  in 
786  was  subjected  to  assault  by  the  Danes.  Lincohi  is  one  of  the  most  important 
cities  in  England,  so  important,  in  fact,  that  at  one  time  it  rivaled  London,  as 
these  lines  show  us: — 

,  "Lincoln  was,  London  is,  and  York  shall  be, 

The  greatest  city  of  the  three." 

It  is  situated  on  a  hill,  overlooking  the  lowlands  of  England's  eastern  coast,  and 
the  high  towers  of  the  cathedral  are  most  impressive.  The  river  Witham  flows  by 
the  city  on  its  way  to  Boston  and  at  one  time  was  noted  for  its  fish,  if  we  believe 
the  following  fines  written  about  the  river: — 

"Wytham  eel  and  Ancum  pike: 
In  all  the  world  there  is  no  syke"  (such). 

When  Phillips  Brooks  visited  Lincoln,  England,  he  said,  "Be  proud  of  your  City, 
and  show  your  pride  of  her  by  seeking  to  become  worthy  of  her." 


LINCOLN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


lOI 


tr^iu  ui.  0..  print  O'lned  oy  AlLn  Forbes 


Formerly  in  the  collection  of  J.  II.  Seer.i,  Essex,  England 


LINCOLN,  ENGLAND,  FROM  THE   RIVER  WITHAM 


In  1896  a  band  of  Pilgrims  from  the  United  States,  headed  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Dunning  of  our  Boston,  visited  Lincoln,  England  (which  claims  John  Robinson 
as  its  own),  and  other  towns  associated  with  the  Pilgrim  Church,  being  particularly 
impressed  by  the  cathedral,  which  is  the  pride  of  Lincoln  and  which  Ruskin  claimed 
was  the  most  precious  piece  of  architecture  in  the  British  Isles.  Work  on  this 
edifice  was  begun  in  1075  by  Bishop  Remigius  but  was  not  completed  until  the 
fourteenth  century.  The  burial  at  Lincob  of  St.  Hugh  of  Avalon,  who  was  made 
bishop  in  1186,  was  attended  by  two  kings  and  many  other  notables  of  that  day. 
It  may  be  interesting  to  remind  Americans  that  Tennyson,  the  poet,  was  born 
near  Lincoln  and  that  a  statue  has  been  erected  to  his  memory  in  the  close  of  the 
cathedral.  It  is  also  noteworthy  that  there  is  a  Bunker  Hill  about  a  mile  from  the  city. 

Our  Lincoln  was  not  set  apart  as  a  town  until  1754,  when  the  Honourable 
Chambers  Russell,  whose  ancestors  had  come  from  Lincolnshire,  England,  persuaded 
the  legislature  to  call  it  Lincoln  after  the  EngUsh  city.  Rev.  William  Lawrence, 
the  first  minister,  John  Hoar,  Edward  Flint,  Stephen  Weston  and  Benjamin  Brown 
were  very  helpful  to  the  Colony  in  the  early  days.  Chambers  Russell  was  honoured 
by  being  allowed  to  choose  the  first  pew  in  the  church. 

Edward  Flint  came  over  to  Concord  in  1636  with  his  family,  and  his  will  was 
the  first  one  recorded  in  Middlesex  County  records,  Cambridge.  The  family  place 
on  the  Lexington  road,  we  believe,  has  never  gone  out  of  the  possession  of  a  member 


I02 


LINCOLN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph  by  S   Smith,  Lincoln,  England  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

A  VIEW  ON  CASTLE  HILL,  LINCOLN,  ENGLAND 

of  this  family.  Lincoln  was  often  called  in  jest  "Niptown"  by  the  surrounding 
communities,  which  claimed  that  it  was  made  up  by  "nipping  off"  the  best  parts 
of  three  or  four  other  towns. 

There  are  also  places  by  the  name  of  Lincoln  in  Maine,  New  Hampshire. 
Rhode  Island  and  Vermont. 


LONDONDERRY,   NEW   HAMPSHIRE 

jk  T  the  one  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  this  New 

/%      Hampshire   town,  Rev.  Dr.  William  McClure  of  Londonderry,  Ireland, 

Jl.   a.  was  invited  to  attend  the  ceremony  and  the  following  reply  was  received 

by  R.  C.  Mack,  Esq.,  Secretary  of  the  Celebration  Committee: — 

"Londonderry,  Ireland,  June  3,  1869. 
My  dear  Sir: — • 

I  have  been  from  home  some  time,  attending  the  meetings  of  the  General  Assemblies 
in  Edinburgh.  This  must  be  my  apology  for  not  writing  to  you  sooner.  However  de- 
hghtful  it  would  be  to  be  present  at  your  one  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary,  I  must 


LONDONDERRY,  NEW    HAMPSHIRE 


T03 


From  a  print  dated  1814 


AN  IRISH  JAUNTING   CAR 


deny  myself  the  pleasure.  My  occupations  at  home  are  so  pressmg  and  numerous  that  I 
cannot  leave.  The  citizens  of  the  parent  Londonderry,  in  Ireland,  will  be  greatly  mterested 
in  your  proceedings,  and  we  trust  everything  will  go  on  prosperously  and  well.  1  will  be 
very  glad  to  have,  either  by  letter  or  newspaper,  an  account  of  the  ceremonies. 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

William  McClure." 

Invitations  were  also  sent  to  the  Mayor  and  Aldermen  of  Londonderry,  Ireland. 

In  April,  17 19,  sixteen  Scotch-Irish  families  came  over  from  the  north  of  Ire- 
land and  they  were  followed  within  a  short  time  by  many  others,  their  reason  for 
migrating  to  this  country  being  to  secure  more  religious  liberty.  It  can,  therefore, 
be  said  that  they  played  the  same  part  in  Ireland  that  the  Puritans  did  in  Eng- 
land in  relation  to  the  new  country.  The  newcomers  spent  their  first  winter  in  the 
harbour  near  Portland,  Maine,  where  they  suffered  great  hardship,  as  their  vessel 
was  frozen  in  the  ice  and  it  was  difficult  to  procure  supplies.  When  spring  came, 
however,  they  wandered  to  the  territory  called  by  them  "Londonderry"  from  the 
town  of  the  same  name  in  Ireland,  so  well  known  to  them.  The  first  thing  they 
did  was  to  purchase  from  John  Wheelwright  the  title  to  these  lands  that  had  been 
purchased  by  his  family  from  the  Indians  a  long  time  before;  it  was  in  this  way  that 
they  became  possessors  of  this  territory  which  was  at  that  time  called  "Nutfield," 


t--*v 


LONDONDERRY,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE  105 

on  account  of  its  many  chestnut-trees.  The  name  Londonderry  was  given  in  1722. 
The  early  days  brought  many  hardships  to  these  settlers.  They  were  once  at- 
tacked by  an  armed  party  in  the  hope  of  dispossessing  them  by  force  from  the 
newly  acquired  property.  At  the  time  of  this  raid  they  were  attending  church 
services  and  it  is  said  that  the  gallant  Londonderry  clergyman  threw  off  his  coat 
and  offered  to  lead  the  attack  should  the  enemy  persist  in  trying  to  drive  out  the 
congregation.  It  is  also  said  that  the  first  minister,  Rev.  Mr.  MacGregor,  always 
carried  his  loaded  gun  into  the  pulpit  and  it  is  believed  that  this  weapon  is  still 
in  the  possession  of  one  of  the  citizens  of  the  nearby  city  of  Manchester,  New 
Hampshire. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  give  the  names  of  some  of  the  distinguished  families 
of  our  Londonderry.  Among  them  were  the  Morrisons,  MacGregors,  McKeans, 
Duncans,  Greggs,  Bells,  Pattersons  and  Dinsmores.  It  is  also  worthy  of  men- 
tion that  the  well-known  Elias  Hasket  Derby,  who  was  born  in  Salem  in  1803,  lived 
for  some  time  in  this  town. 

Among  the  articles  on  exhibition  at  the  time  of  the  anniversary  in  1869  were 
plates  brought  over  from  Ireland  in  1720  by  some  of  the  early  emigrants,  who  soon 
after  leaving  the  Irish  coast  were  captured  by  pirates.  A  daughter  was  born  to 
one  of  these  emigrants  on  board  the  pirate  vessel  and  these  plates  came  into  her 
possession  and  at  the  time  of  the  celebration  belonged  to  one  of  her  descendants. 
There  was  also  a  powder-horn  used  at  the  siege  of  Derry,  in  Ireland,  which  was 
brought  over  by  Rev.  Mr.  MacGregor.  These  early  emigrants  are  said  to  have 
introduced  the  potato  into  New  England  in  17 19.  The  people  of  Londonderry  are 
also  responsible  for  the  settlement  of  a  number  of  other  towns  in  New  Hampshire, 
New  York,  Michigan  and  Nova  Scotia.  Londonderry  in  Vermont,  formerly  called 
Kent,  owes  its  name  to  the  original  settlers  most  of  whom  came  from  Londonderry, 
New  Hampshire,  and  it  can,  therefore,  be  said  that  the  town  owes  its  name,  indi- 
rectly, to  the  Irish  city. 

The  ancient  city  of  Londonderry,  the  capital  of  County  Londonderry,  Ireland, 
is  situated  on  the  river  Foyle,  about  ninety-five  miles  northwest  of  Belfast.  It 
was  formerly  called  Derry, — a  name  derived  from  Doire,  meaning  the  "place  of 
oaks."  The  city  owes  its  origin  to  the  monastery  which  was  founded  there  by 
Columba  in  545.  Like  all  towns  of  the  British  Isles,  Derry  suffered  by  the  inroads 
of  the  Danes  and  was  burned  more  than  once  by  these  invaders,  but  they  were 
finally  expelled  by  Murtagh  O'Brian  in  the  early  part  of  the  twelfth  century.  Its 
chief  historic  interest,  however,  centers  around  the  "siege  of  Derry"  in  1690,  when 
the  Irish  Protestants  successfully  defended  the  town  against  the  forces  of  James  II. 
George  Walker,  the  rector  of  Donaghmore,  who  with  Major  Baker  had  been  chosen 
to  govern  the  town,  won  lasting  fame  for  himself  by  his  bravery  and  hopefulness 
during  this  siege,  and  the  famous  reply  of  "no  surrender"  which  was  made  to  the 
enemy  became  the  watchword  of  the  men  of  Derry  and  has  been  accorded  a  place 


io6  LONDONDERRY,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

of  honour  in  the  annals  of  history.  When  the  plucky  garrison  had  almost  reached 
its  last  extremity  on  the  30th  of  July,  some  ships  broke  through  the  obstruction 
across  the  harbour  and  brought  relief  to  the  suffering  town.  King  William,  as  a 
recognition  of  the  importance  of  the  work  of  the  inhabitants  of  "Old  Londonderry" 
in  this  memorable  siege,  caused  an  act  to  be  passed  whereby  those  who  partici- 
pated in  the  defense  of  the  city,  bearing  arms,  were  thereafter  to  be  exempt  from 
taxation  throughout  the  British  dominions.  Some  of  the  settlers  of  London- 
derry, New  Hampshire,  were  entitled  to  such  exemption  and  availed  themselves 
of  their  right  until  the  Revolution.  On  the  Royal  bastion  from  which  the  men  of 
Derry  defied  the  enemy  stands  a  tall  column  bearing  a  statue  of  Walker,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  siege.     The  anniversary  of  the  relief  is  still  celebrated. 

The  ancient  rampart,  with  its  gates  and  bastions,  which  surrounds  a  section  of 
Londonderry,  and  a  few  ancient  houses  with  high,  pyramidal  gables,  give  the  town 
an  atmosphere  of  antiquity  in  spite  of  its  numerous  modern  features.  The  indus- 
tries carried  on  there  include  the  manufacture  of  linen,  shipbuilding,  iron  foun- 
dries and  fisheries.  It  is  interesting  to  recall  that  the  Cathedral,  completed  in 
1633,  was  built  by  money  subscribed  from  London.  The  town  was  a  great  port  of 
emigration  to  the  United  States  in  the  days  before  the  transatlantic  steamers  came 
into  operation,  the  emigrants  sailing  in  "clippers"  owned  by  Derry  merchants. 

LYNN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

IT  is  interesting  to  notice  that  the  first  visitor  to  England,  according  to  some 
writers,  from  the  territory  that  is  now  called  Lynn,  was  probably  Monto- 
wampate,  the  Indian  chieftain,  who  lived  here  peacefully  for  some  time  with 
the  new  settlers,  but,  having  been  defrauded  of  twenty  beaver  skins  by  a  trader 
in  England,  he  journeyed  to  London  in  1631,  armed  with  a  letter  from  Governor 
Winthrop  to  Emmanuel  Downing  of  London.  The  redskin  was  received  with 
much  respect  and  was  given  the  money  for  his  furs,  but  not  liking  the  English  bill 
of  fare,  it  is  said  that  he  returned  to  his  native  hunting  ground  to  enjoy  his  clams 
and  succotash.  The  first  settlement  in  the  town,  which  was  called  "Saugus"  or 
"Saugust,"  was  made  nine  years  after  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  and  the  first 
five  men  to  whom  is  given  the  honour  of  making  the  settlement  are  Edmund  and 
Francis  Ingalls,  William  Dixey  and  John  and  William  Wood.  These  pioneers  were 
with  Captain  John  Endicott's  colony,  which  came  to  Salem  in  1628  and,  as  it  has 
been  expressed,  "strayed  over"  to  Lynn  the  following  year.  They  set  out,  we  are 
told,  from  Salem  with  leave  to  go  "where  we  would"  and  having  discovered  "a 
faire  playne"  lying  between  Salem  and  Charlestown,  called  Saugus,  they  took 
"peaceable  possession."  The  organized  settlement  did  not  take  place,  however, 
until  two  years  later.  Edmund  Ingalls  came  from  Lincolnshire,  England,  in  1629, 
and  was  drowned  in  1648,  when  he  and  his  horse  fell  through  the  old  Saugus  Bridge. 


LYNN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


107 


Some  of  the  names  connected  with 
the  early  history  of  Lynn  were 
Breed,  Newhall,  Mansfield,  Burrill, 
Hood,  Alley,  Lewis,  Fuller,  Baker, 
Dexter  and  Bassett.  In  1636,  Rev. 
Samuel  Whiting,  who  has  been 
called  the  "Father  of  Lynn"  and 
the  "Angel  of  Lynn,"  was  installed 
minister  of  the  httle  church  at 
Saugus.  He  was  born  in  Boston, 
England,  and  was  the  son  of  Sir 
John  Whiting,  who  was  twice 
Mayor  of  that  town.  Samuel's 
brother,  John,  was  Mayor  of 
Boston,  England,  in  1626,  1627, 
1644  and  1645,  that  being  the 
only  instance  of  any  man  having 
been  Mayor  four  times  previous 
to  the  Municipal  Act  of  1835. 
Another  brother,  James,  also  was 
Mayor  of  Boston,  in  1640.  Rev. 
Mr.  Whiting  was  Rector  of  St. 
Margaret's  Church,  Lynn  Regis, 
and  also  of  Skirbeck  Church, 
Boston,  England,  but  on  account 
of  his  non-conformist  tendencies 
he  decided  to  come  to  this  country, 
bringing  with  him  his  second  wife, 
who  was  a  daughter  of  Oliver  St. 
John,  Chief  Justice  of  England  at 
one  time,  and  a  cousin  of  Oliver 
Cromwell.  In  honour  of  this 
preacher  the  name  of  the  town 
during  the  next  year  was  changed 
from  Saugus  to  Lynn,  by  order  of 
the  General  Court,  being  recorded 
in  these  words,  "Saugust  is  called 
Lin."  Whiting  on  the  voyage  over 
said,  "I  would  much  rather  under- 
go six  weeks'  imprisonment  for 
a   good   cause,   than  six  weeks  of 


From  a  photograph  Kindness   Rev.    William  Appleton   Lawrence, 

John  Albree,  Esq.,  and  Walter  R.  Il'hiting,  Esq. 

SHAFT  OVER  THE  GRAVE  OF  REV.  SAMUEL 
WHITING,  THE  FIRST  MINISTER  OF  LYNN, 
MASSACHUSETTS,  IN  WEST   LYNN   CEMETERY, 

LYNN,   MASSACHUSEiTS 
Rev.  Samuel  Whiting  had  been  rector  of  St.  Margaret's 
Church,  Lynn  Regis,  England,  a  picture  of  which  is  shown 
in  another  illustration. 


io8 


LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Amy  E.  Purdy,  The  Studio,  King's  Lynn  Kindness  L.n  For.'-c-j-R.^. 

ST.  MARGARET'S  CHURCH,  LYNN  REGIS,  ENGLAND, 

the  church  of  which  Rev.  Samuel  Whiting  was  Rector  before  coming  to  the  New  England  Lynn, 
from  this  church  was  sent,  in  1880,  to  St.  Stephen's  Church,  in  Lynn,  Massachusetts. 


A  stone 


such  terrible  sea-sickness."  He  lies  buried  in  the  old  Western  Burying-ground,  Lynn, 
and  a  granite  memorial  shaft  has  been  erected  over  his  grave  by  Hon.  William 
Whiting  of  our  Boston.  There  are  many  of  his  descendants  in  different  parts  of  this 
country.  The  Whiting  family  has  been  prominent  in  the  history  of  old  Boston  and 
the  neighborhood  not  only  for  generations  but  for  centuries,  for  in  a  document  known 
as  the  Subsidy  Roll  of  Edward  III  (1333)  occurs  the  name  of  William  Whytynge. 
There  have  been  many  interchanges  between  the  two  places,  and  it  is  evident 
that  the  people  of  old  Lynn  were  in  sympathy  with  their  kinsmen  in  the  New 
World  from  the  very  first,  for  in  the  records  of  St.  Margaret's  Church  in  1653  is 
the  following  entry: — 

"Collected  for  the  natives  and  distressed  people  of  Newe  England,  and  that  from 
house  to  house  within  the  parrish,  and  paid  unto  Mr.  Joshua  Green,  ald'n.  the  20th  of 
Nov.  1653,  £25:  13:00" 

The  comer-stone  of  the  present  St.  Stephen's  Memorial  Church,  formerly  called 
St.  Stephen's  Church,  and  still  before  that,  Christ  Church,  was  laid  in  the  year 
1880.     Several  years  previously  Rev.  Louis  De  Cormis,  the  Rector  of  the  Parish  at 


LYNN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


;  '  '  Kindness  Rev.  JVilliam  Appleton  Lawrence 

''      ■''"'''''  g^    STEPHEN'S   CHURCH,  LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

which  has  a  stone  sent  from  St.  Margaret's  Church,  Lynn  Regis,  England. 

that  time,  suggested  that  a  block  of  stone  from  one  of  the  churches  in  Lynn,  Eng- 
and  might  be  sent  and  inserted  in  the  wall  of  his  church  and  suitably  mscribed. 
It  warLrefore  decided  that  Hon.  Roland  G.  Usher,  a  former  Mayor  of  our 
Lynn  shouM^^^^^^^^  a  letter  from  Rev.  Mr.  De  Cormis  to  the  English  Rector,  con- 
taining this  suggestion.     Part  of  this  message  read  as  follows:-^  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

Oct.  29,  1879. 

forefathers  in  the  great  Ensl-h  Chur  h     T^^^^^^^  ..  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^„  ^,  ,„d 

^collXl  Srch^Sr^n/S    asVurred  ^^^-^:l:-^;:l:i:^C-^. 

Lrdtr:x*:ptr„fn:rrpr^^^^^^ 

and  desirable  thing  to  do." 


no 


LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


Kindness  Rev.  William  Appleton  Lawrence 

STONE   SENT   BY   ST.  MARGARET'S   CHURCH, 
KING'S   LYNN, 

of  which  Rev.  Samuel  Whiting,  Lynn's  first  minister,  was 
rector  before  coming  to  New  England.  This  relic  is  now 
in  St.  Stephen's  Church,  Lynn,  Massachusetts,  having 
been  procured  from  the  English  Church  in  1880  by  Hon. 
Roland  G.  Usher,  and  Rev.  Louis  De  Cormis,  once  a 
minister  of  this  church  in  our  Lynn. 


A  reply  to  this  letter,  dated 
June  28,  1880,  read  as  follows: — 

^^  Rev.  and  Dear  Brother: 

My  thanks  are  due  to  you  for 
kindly  introducing  to  me  so  pleasant 
and  friendly  a  man  as  the  Honourable 
R.  G.  Usher,  and  also  for  the  kind 
and  brotherly  greeting  contained  in 
your  letter.  .  .  .  Mr.  Usher  and  I 
have  selected  a  stone  for  your  inter- 
esting purpose,  from  such  fragments 
as  were  available  in  our  grand  old 
church.  My  only  regret  is  that  all  the 
pieces  were  so  small.  I  hope,  however, 
that  our  inability  to  find  a  piece  of 
stone  better  adapted  for  your  wishes 
will  not  materially  lessen  the  satisfac- 
tion of  yourself  and  your  Church 
people  on  the  receipt  of  a  relic  which 
it  has  been  a  real  pleasure  to  me 
to  send. 

John  Durst,  Rector  of  North  Lynn 
and  Vicar  of  King's  Lynn,  England^' 

The  stone,  quarried  during  the 
eleventh  century,  was  carefully 
selected  by  the  English  Rector 
and  Mr.  Usher  from  this  building, 
which  is  the  old  parish  church, 
and  sent  to  this  country  where 
it  now  occupies  a  place  of  honour 
in  St.  Stephen's  Memorial  Church 
in  our  Lynn,  and  makes  a  very 
tangible    link    between    the    new 


and  the  old  Lynn.  It  forms  a  part  of  a  window- jamb  and  bears  the  following 
inscription  on  one  side: — 

ST.  Margaret's  church,  lynn,  England 

TO 

ST.  Stephen's  church,  lynn,  mass,  u.  s.  a. 

28TH    JUNE,  1880 

The  other  side  was  left  untouched  as  it  had  been  for  years.  An  inscription  is  also  cut 
on  a  stone  panel  just  below  the  shelf  on  which  the  stone  is  placed,  as  shown  in  the 
illustration  on  this  page.    At  the  laying  of  the  corner-stone,  Mr.  Usher  said  in  part: — 

"It  comes  as  the  expression  of  the  interest  and  good  will  of  the  people  of  St.  Mar- 
garet's— as  a  hnk  to  connect  our  Lynn  with  old  King's  Lynn  in  England.  ...  we  pray 


LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS  m 

that  the  record  for  the  ages  to  come  of  St.  Stephen's  Memorial  Church,  may  be  for  use- 
fubiess  and  influence  equal  to  that  of  St.  Margaret's." 

A  formal  resolution  of  thanks  was  adopted  and  sent  across  the  water.  A  Centen- 
nial Memorial  of  Lynn,  Massachusetts,  was  also  sent  over  about  this  time,  by 
Mr.  Usher,  to  the  Enghsh  Lynn. 

The  good  will  between  the  two  places  had  been  manifested  also  during  the 
celebration  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  Lynn,  Massachusetts, 
held  in  June,  1879,  at  which  time  an  invitation  was  sent  by  Mayor  George  D. 
Sanderson  to  Mayor  Thomas  A.  Seppings  of  Lynn  Regis  to  be  present.  Although 
unable  to  accept,  the  EngUsh  Mayor  replied  most  cordially,  sending  his  congrat- 
ulations and  best  wishes  to  our  city.  Another  letter  was  received  from  Rev. 
Edward  J.  Alvis,  Vicar  of  East  Winch  and  a  native  of  old  Lynn,  who  also  sent  an 
interesting  engraving  of  his  town.  Another  resident  of  the  English  town,  John 
Coulton,  sent  a  poem  written  by  himself  and  dedicated  to  our  Lynn,  which  was 
read  at  the  anniversary,  the  last  stanza  of  which  was: — 

"For  each  a  happy  future  is  in  store, 
If  wisdom's  counsels  shall  unite  the  nations 
Firmer  in  friendship  for  our  feuds  of  yore — 
Alone,  unrivall'd  in  our  lofty  stations 
Old  England  new  in  brighter  destinies, 
New  England  old  in  hallow'd  memories." 

Still  another  letter  was  received  from  Robert  Brooks  in  which  he  said  in  part:^ 

"Many  of  us  when  youths  at  school,  scanning  the  map  of  the  'Young  Giant'  your 
country,  have  had  our  eyes  drawn  to  'Norfolk'  and  to  'Lynn'  in  a  far  distant  land,— the 
names  of  our  county  and  loved  old  town — we  have  wondered  how  it  was,  and  at  times  with 
anxiety  have  wished  to  learn  something  of  your  history.  At  last  kindly  words  'have 
come  across  the  sea.'  You  tell  a  tale  of  affection  for  one  you  were  pleased  to  honour,— 
'A  beloved  clergyman'  who  once  claimed  our  home  as  his;  in  honouring  him  you  honoured 
us.     We  now,  in  no  formal  words,  Thank  you." 

Another  occasion  of  interest  was  the  celebration  by  the  Lynn  Historical  Society, 
called  "King's  Lynn  Night,"  which  was  observed  a  few  years  ago  with  appropriate 
exercises,  including  lectures  on  historical  subjects  pertaining  to  the  old  Lynn,  stere- 
opticon  views  of  the  places  of  interest  and  a  description  of  the  town  by  some  of  the 
citizens  of  new  Lynn  who  had  visited  there.  In  the  records  of  this  society  mention 
is  made  of  a  Queen  Victoria  Medal  which  was  presented  to  the  organization  in 
1899  through  Mayor  Walter  S.  Ramsdell,  having  been  sent  from  old  Lynn  accom- 
panied by  a  letter  from  the  Mayor.  At  this  time  it  was  also  mentioned  that  St. 
Stephen's  Church  had  been  sent  some  small  organ  pipes  from  St.  Margaret's  Church, 
but  as  no  inscriptions  were  placed  upon  them  they  cannot  be  identified. 

The  first  offspring  of  our  Lynn  was  Reading,  which  became  a  separate  township 
in  1644  and  which  is  dealt  with  later  on  in  this  volume.  Nahant  was  granted  in 
1622  by  the  Council  in  England  to  Captain  Robert  Gorges,  who  in  turn  gave  part 


LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS  113 

of  the  island  and  Saugus  to  John  Oldham.  Still  later  Nahant  was  purchased  for 
the  price  of  a  suit  of  clothes  by  Thomas  Dexter,  who  was  then  a  farmer  and  who 
was  one  of  the  "ten  men  of  Saugust"  to  found  Sandwich  in  1639.  Even  to  this 
day  the  seal  of  Nahant  depicts  Dexter  offering  his  suit  of  clothes  to  the  Indian 
in  exchange  for  the  lands.  In  these  early  days  and  for  many  years  there  was  a 
fence  across  Lynn  Neck  to  keep  in  the  cows  and  sheep  that  were  pastured  in  Na- 
hant by  the  people  of  Lynn.  It  may  be  interesting  also  to  record  that  in  1803  there 
were  only  five  houses  in  Nahant,  the  Johnson  family  owning  one  of  these.  It  is 
said  that  the  wolf-pits  of  1630  in  the  Lynn  Woods  are  the  oldest  unchanged  works 
of  man  in  the  Colony. 

The  English  town  now  called  Lynn,  on  the  river  Ouse,  was  once  named 
Bishop's  Lynn,  but  was  later  changed  to  Lynn  Regis,  or  King's  Lynn,  during  the 
reign  of  Henry  VIII.  It  is  situated  in  the  county  of  Norfolk  and  is  especially 
famous  for  its  fine  churches,  its  Custom  House  and  its  Guildhall;  it  also  has  an 
excellent  public  Hbrary,  the  gift  of  Andrew  Carnegie.  Through  the  fourteenth 
century  the  town  was  given  over  almost  entirely  to  religious  orders,  and  many 
monasteries  were  built  there,  chiefly  by  the  Franciscans,  Augustinians  and  Domini- 
cans, the  best  known  of  aU  these  scholarly  monks  being  John  Capgrave,  who  wrote 
much  poetry.  Daniel  Defoe  visited  the  town  in  1722  and  described  it  as  a  "rich 
and  populous  port- town." 

Lynn  rose  rapidly  from  a  marsh  town  to  a  seaport,  still  being  an  important  port, 
as  expressed  in  the  following  fines: — 

' '  Rising  was  a  sea-port  town 
When  Lynn  was  but  a  marsh; 
Now  Lynn  it  is  a  sea-port 
And  Rising  fares  the  worse." 

The  derivation  of  the  name  is  from  the  Celtic  "lyn,"  meaning  a  "lake,"  which 
referred  to  the  sea  which  covered  a  large  part  of  the  immediate  district  called 
Marshland,  now  reclaimed.  One  of  the  chief  events  in  the  history  of  the  borough 
was  the  Siege  of  Lynn,  which  occurred  in  the  time  of  the  conffict  between  Charles  I 
and  the  Parfiamentary  forces.  The  town,  which  sided  with  the  Royafist  cause, 
was  fortified  and  awaited  the  attack  by  the  Earl  of  Manchester.  While  divine 
worship  was  being  held  one  day  a  cannon  ball  was  sent  through  the  church, 
scattering  the  congregation.  This  did  not  daunt  them,  however,  for  they 
said,  "As  soon  might  the  Earl  of  Manchester  raise  his  good  father  from  the 
dead  as  force  his  entrance  into  Lynn."  No  help,  however,  came  to  the  men 
who  held  the  town  and  they  were  finally  forced  to  surrender  to  the  Parfia- 
mentary troops. 

It  is  told  that  OHver  Cromwell,  when  a  child,  f  eU  into  the  Ouse  and  was  pulled  out 
by  a  Royafist  parson  who  was  fishing  nearby.  Years  later  when  Oliver  the  Protector 
revisited  the  scenes  of  his  youth  with  his  triumphant  army,  he  met  his  rescuer  and 


114  LYNN,  MASSACHUSETTS 

asked  him  if  he  remembered  the  occurrence.  "Truly  do  I,"  was  the  prompt  reply, 
"and  the  Lord  forgive  me  but  I  wish  I'd  let  thee  drown." 

Lynn's  church  was  founded  by  Herbert  de  Losinga,  the  first  Norman  bishop 
of  East  Anglia,  and  is  famous  for  two  fine  sepulchral  brasses,  one  of  which  shows 
a  wonderful  feast,  among  the  delicacies  on  the  table  being  a  peacock  "that  noble 
bird,  the  food  of  lovers  and  the  meat  of  Lords."  An  attendant  is  shown  bringing 
in  the  peacock,  and  one  of  the  guests  is  depicted  in  the  act  of  straddhng  the  table 
in  his  desire  to  obtain  possession  of  it,  while  his  neighbors  remonstrate  with  him 
on  his  bad  manners.  The  famous  navigator  George  Vancouver,  for  whom  Van- 
couver Island  was  named,  was  born  in  the  English  Lynn. 

Some  one  who  visited  the  town  remarked,  "There's  a  bit  o'  life  sometimes 
there,"  explaining  further  that  he  liked  it  very  much  as  compared  to  the  quiet  coun- 
try, which  he  said  was  like  "living  in  a  teapot  and  'peekin'  at  the  world  through 
the  spout." 

Among  the  important  people  of  our  Lynn  should  be  mentioned  Joseph  Rednap, 
the  cooper,  who  established  his  business  here  in  1634;  Francis  Ingalls,  who  estab- 
lished  in  the  town  the  first  tannery;  Philip  Kertland,  a  shoemaker,  John  Adam 
Dagyr,  who  was  called  the  "celebrated  shoemaker  of  Essex,"  and  who  added  a  new 
chapter  to  the  shoe  industry  by  introducing  the  more  skillful  French  method  of 
making  shoes,  making  footwear,  it  is  said,  for  the  brides  of  Boston.  In  these  early 
days  shoemaking  was  carried  on  in  the  homes.  To  the  town  also  came  from  London 
William  Rose,  who  understood  the  art  of  manufacturing  morocco  and  who,  it  is 
claimed,  was  the  first  to  set  up  this  business  in  the  town. 

The  dies  for  the  Pine  Tree  shillings  were  made  at  the  Saugus  Iron  Works  by 
Esther  Jenkes,  the  wife  of  the  Superintendent.  These  works  were  estabHshed 
in  1642  near  the  present  site  of  Pranker's  Mills  and  they  laid  the  foundation  for  the 
iron  industry  of  the  United  States.  The  first  Superintendent  was  Joseph  Jenkes, 
who  on  May  14,  1646,  received,  for  a  water  wheel  which  he  designed,  the  first  patent 
granted  on  the  continent  of  North  America.  Jenkes  was  also  the  inventor  of  the 
American  scythe.  In  the  Public  Library  of  Lynn  is  exhibited  an  iron  kettle  which 
is  supposed  to  represent  the  first  iron  casting  made  in  the  New  World. 

In  the  early  days  the  preachers  frequently  timed  their  sermons  with  an  hour 
glass  and  on  one  occasion  a  minister  is  said  to  have  remarked,  "I  know  you  are  good 
fellows;   stay  and  take  another  glass." 


IIS 

MALDEN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

WE  believe  we  can  do  no  better  than  reproduce  a  letter  written  by  Hon. 
Charles  L.  Dean,  Mayor  of  Maiden,  Massachusetts,  to  His  Worship 
Edward  A.  Fitch,  Mayor  of  Maldon,  Essex,  England,  in  reply  to  one 
received  from  Mr.  Fitch  on  the  occasion  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary 
of  the  incorporation  of  our  Maiden.  With  this  letter  from  the  English  official 
came  a  short  accoimt  of  his  old  borough,  with  a  request  for  information  in  regard 
to  our  Maiden.     This  letter  runs  as  follows: — - 

"Malden,  IMass.  May  13,  1899. 
Dear  Sir; — 

Your  valued  communication  of  April  22nd  duly  received,  also  a  copy  of  your  book 
entitled  Maldon  and  the  Blackwater.  I  appreciate  your  kindness  and  am  grateful  for 
the  trouble  you  have  taken.  I  regret  that  you  will  not  be  able  to  be  with  us  on  our  birth- 
day, but  you  may  be  assured  that  the  people  of  Maiden  in  New  England  will  not  forget 
the  old  mother  on  the  Blackwater  at  that  time. 

Our  historian  has  given  me  the  following  items  of  information  in  regard  to  the  old 
settlers  and  I  hope  that  you  may  be  able  to  trace  some  of  them  as  coming  directly  from 
your  borough. 

A  leader  in  the  settlement  of  our  town  was  Joseph  Hills,  who  was  married  at  Burstead 
Magna,  Billericay,  in  1624.  He  was  of  your  parish  of  All  Saints  in  1631,  and  the  births 
of  his  children  are  recorded  there.  In  1638  he  came  to  New  England  with  others.  His 
son-in-law,  John  Wayte,  who  was  a  leading  man  here,  was  from  Wethersfield,  Essex. 
Another  of  our  early  settlers,  Richard  Pratt,  is  said  to  have  been  a  son  of  John  Pratt  of 
your  borough,  where  he  was  baptized  in  161 5.  The  authority  for  this  statement  is  not 
known.  Salmon,  History  of  Essex,  424,  says  that  John  Pratt,  an  alderman  of  Maldon, 
was  buried  in  All  Saints  in  1619.  Thomas  Ruck,  an  early  landholder  but  not  a  settler, 
is  said  to  have  come  from  Maldon. 

It  may  interest  you  to  know  that  out  of  the  httle  settlement  of  1649,  which  was  named 
Maldon  (now  changed  to  Maiden)  have  grown  three  cities  with  an  aggregate  population 
of  about  seventy  thousand  people. 

Again  expressing  our  regret  that  you  will  not  be  able  to  be  present  at  our  anniversary 
exercises,  I  am,  with  kind  regards, 

Very  truly  yours, 

Charles  L.  Dean,  Mayors 

The  territory  now  included  in  Maiden,  Everett  and  Melrose  originally  belonged  to 
Charlestown  and  in  1634  it  was  known  as  "Mystic  Side."  The  settlement  of 
Maiden  was  actually  made  in  1640,  but  the  town  was  not  incorporated  until  1649, 
when  the  following  record  appears:  "In  answer  to  the  peticon  of  seull  inhabitants 
of  Misticke  side  their  request  is  graunted,  viz,  to  be  a  distinct  towne  of  themselves 
&  the  name  thereof  to  be  Maulden."  The  name  has  been  spelled  Maldon,  Mauldon, 
Maulden  and  Maiden.  The  town  became  a  city  in  1882.  The  first  minister  of 
the  settlement  was  Marmaduke  Matthews,  who  came  from  South  Wales. 

At  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  incorporation  of  the  town, 
St.  Paul's  Church  exhibited  a  number  of  seals  of  England,  and  a  sermon  was  at 


MALDEN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


117 


Photographed  by  Hazeltine  Frost,  Glendale  Studio,  Maldon  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

ALL   SAINTS   CHURCH,  MALDON,  ESSEX,  ENGLAND 

In  the  graveyard  of  this  church  Ue  the  remains  of  La^Yrence  Washington,  the  great-grandfather  of  George 

Washington,  and  his  burial  record  is  in  the  register  of  the  church. 

that  time  preached  by  Rev.  WilUam  Cunningham,  Vicar  of  Great  St.  Mary's  Church, 
Cambridge,  England. 

Maldon,  England,  is  in  Essex  County,  about  thirty-eight  miles  from  London. 
It  is  said  that  once  it  had  the  distinction  of  being  the  real  Camulodunum  where 
King  Arthur  held  his  court,  about  which  cluster  the  hnest  tales  of  chivalry  ever 
recorded.  While  Maldon  does  not  insist  on  this  ancient  claim,  it  can  stiU  boast  of 
bemg  the  oldest  chartered  city  in  the  county  of  Essex.  In  the  Saxon  Chronicle 
there  are  two  references  to  Maldon.  In  913  King  Edward  the  Elder,  while  fighting 
the  Danes,  encamped  there  with  his  forces,  during  the  construction  of  a  fortress, 
and  there  he  fought  a  great  battle,  driving  the  enemy  out  of  the  to^^^l  and  slaying 
them  by  the  thousands.     In  920  Edward  rebuilt  :Maldon  and  raised  and  garrisoned 

a  castle  there. 

The  death  of  a  Saxon  hero  during  this  early  conflict  brought  forth  one  of  the 
gems  of  old  Enghsh  poetry,-"  Brihtnoth's  Death,"-that,  even  though  imperfectly 
preserved  dramatically  relates  the  story  of  the  Battle  of  Maldon.     Many  times  did 


ii8  MALDEN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

the  Northmen  invade  the  East  Anglian  shores,  but  after  centuries  under  the  con- 
flicting rule  of  four  nations,  Maldon  passed  through  a  period  of  peace  sufficiently 
extended  to  enable  the  people  to  build  churches.  Before  the  Norman  Conquest 
beautiful  St.  Mary's  was  erected,  the  tower  of  which  fell  in  the  seventeenth  century, 
being  rebuilt  at  the  time  of  the  emigration  of  the  men  who  carried  the  name  of 
Maldon  into  New  England. 

Though  a  borough  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  it  is  thought  that  the  town's 
corporate  existence  must  have  begun  under  Saxon  rule.  The  first  recorded  charter 
was  granted  in  1154  by  Henry  II.  "Bloody  Mary"  gave  a  second  charter  in  1553 
and  in  1810  the  present  charter  was  granted. 

The  three  lions  depicted  on  the  shield  of  the  old  borough  appear  in  the  town 
and  city  seal  of  Maiden,  Massachusetts.  American  travelers  through  Essex  County, 
England,  invariably  visit  the  old  churchyard  of  All  Saints,  Maldon,  where  rest  the 
remains  of  George  Washington's  great-grandfather,  Lawrence  Washington,  who 
held  the  living  of  Purleigh.  His  burial  record  is  also  in  the  register  of  All  Saints, 
Maldon. 

MANCHESTER,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

THE  one  hundredth  anniversary  celebration  of  the  naming  of  the  city  of 
Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  was  held  in  1910,  and  on  this  occasion  the 
Lord   Mayor   of  Manchester,  England,  sent  the  following  letter  to  Isaac 
Huse,  Esq.,  President  of  the  Manchester  Historic  Association: — 

^^ My  dear  Sir: — 

Your  interesting  letter  of  the  i8th  May,  informing  me  that  one  hundred  years  ago 
your  town  adopted  the  name  of  Manchester  in  the  hope  that  it  would  attain  a  position  of 
importance  in  manufactures  and  population,  has  given  me  great  pleasure  and  I  trust  that 
your  Centenary  proceedings  will  prove  a  great  success. 

Your  expressions  of  goodwill  towards  us  are  much  appreciated  and  reciprocated. 

I  am,  yours  faithfully 
^  Charles  Behrens, 

Lord  Mayor.'' 

The  City  Library  in  Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  has  exchanged  reports  and  letters 
with  the  library  in  Manchester,  England,  and  also  contains  about  three  hundred 
books,  pamphlets,  reports  and  histories  relating  to  the  antiquities  of  the  English 
city  and  a  description  of  the  cotton  industry  for  which  that  place  is  famous.  Most 
of  this  collection  came  originally  from  the  library  of  the  late  G.  H.  Adshead,  Esq., 
of  Manchester,  England,  being  purchased  from  his  nephew,  Hon.  John  Hyde  of 
Washington,  D.C.  At  the  time  of  the  semi-centennial  celebration  in  1896  Charles 
K.  Walker,  superintendent  of  the  City  Water  Works,  procured  a  photograph  of 


MANCHESTER,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


119 


Photographed  by  Fred  T.  Irwin 


Kindness  Miss  F.  Mabel  JVinchell 


CITY  HALL,  MANCHESTER,  ENGLAND, 

from  a  picture  in  the  office  of  the  Water  Works  of  Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  procured  by  Charles  K. 
Walker,  Manager  of  that  Department  at  the  time  of  the  semi-centennial  of  the  city. 

the  City  Hall  of  Manchester,  England,  which  together  with  a  photograph  of  the 
City  Hall  of  Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  may  now  be  seen  in  the  office  of  the 
Manchester  Water  Works  Department. 

The  early  history  of  this  important  New  England  city  is  of  great  interest: — 
On  June  13,  1810,  John  Langdon,  Governor  of  New  Hampshire,  affixed  his  seal 
to  a  bill  by  which  the  name  of  the  town  of  Derryheld  was  changed  to  Manchester, 
the  exact  phraseology  of  the  essential  part  of  the  bill  being  as  follows: — 

"Be  it  Enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  or  Representatives  in  General  Court 
convened: 
That  said  town  of  Derryfield  shall  forever  hereafter  be  called  and  known  by  the  name 
of  Manchester,  any  law,  usage  or  custom  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding." 

The  reason  for  this  form  of  expression  may  perhaps  be  found  in  the  fact  that  the 
place  now  designated  as  Manchester  had  already  borne  several  different  names. 
There  is  a  tradition  that  the  territory  was  originally  called  by  the  Indians  Kas- 
kaashadi,  "the  place  of  broken  water,"  referring  to  the  falls  of  Amoskeag.  If  this 
was  the  case  this  name  must  have  given  way  to  Namaoskeag,  meaning  "a  great 
place  for  fish."     The  white  settlers  in  this  locality  called  it  Nutfield,  or  the  Chestnut 


I20 


MANCHESTER,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


From 


The  Centennial  Celebration  of  Manchester,  N.H." 

OLD    DERRYFIELD   MEETING 


HOUSE 


Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  was  at  one  time  called  Derryfield  because  the  people  of  Derry  used  to 

pasture  their  cows  there. 

Country,  on  account  of  the  abundance  of  chestnut  trees,  Tyng's  Township  being 
another  name,  meaning  the  land  granted  to  Tyng  and  his  men.  Still  later  it  was 
called  by  the  derisive  name  of  Harrytown,  a  shortened  form  of  "Old  Harry's 
Town,"  and  in  1751  it  was  called  Derryfield,  because  the  people  of  the  nearby 
town  of  Derry  were  accustomed  to  pasture  their  cows  there.  These  names  did 
not  all  apply  to  precisely  the  same  district,  nevertheless  they  were  all,  excepting 
possibly  the  first,  applied  at  some  time  to  the  whole  or  a  part  of  the  territory  which 
in  18 10  by  act  of  legislature  acquired  the  name  of  Manchester.  The  early  settlers 
were  either  the  families  of  the  Scotch-Irish,  who  had  come  to  this  part  of  New 
Hampshire  in  17 19,  or  the  descendants  of  the  English  Puritans. 

The  name  of  Manchester  was  given  to  the  town  as  a  compliment  to  Judge 
Samuel  Blodget,  who  had  built  a  home  for  himself  near  Amoskeag  Falls  in  1793 
and  who  became  the  pioneer  of  internal  improvements  in  New  Hampshire.  He 
was  the  first  to  realize  the  value  of  the  water  power  at  Amoskeag  and  for  its  devel- 
opment he  worked  incessantly,  finally  achieving  his  triumph  in  1807,  when  he  rode 
through  the  canal  amid  the  applause  and  praise  of  the  people  who  had  gathered  on 
the  banks  to  witness  the  event.  On  the  occasion  of  a  visit  to  England  in  1787  he 
prophesied  that  his  home  town  would  some  time  surpass  old  Manchester  as  a  man- 


MANCHESTER,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


121 


From  an  old  print  o-.cned  by  Allan  Forbes 


Formerly  m  the  eolleetion  of  J.  H.  Seers,  Essex,  England 

MANCHESTER,  ENGLAND 


ufacturing  center  but  at  the  time  that  Manchester  received  its  name  there  was  Httle 
to  indicate  that  Judge  Blodget's  prophecy  would  ever  in  any  measure  be  fulfilled. 
In  an  address  delivered  at  the  centennial  celebration  of  the  naming  of  Manchester 
it  was  said  that  in  the  year  1810  there  seemed  to  be  but  two  facts  that  made  the 
place  in  any  way  notable;  one  was  the  existence  of  the  Amoskeag  Falls  with  their 
fisheries  and  possibilities  while  the  other  was  that  the  town  was  the  home  of  Major 
General  John  Stark,  the  Revolutionary  hero,  who  was  then  passing  a  peaceful  old 
age  on  his  estate  near  the  Falls. 

In  1 8 14  the  navigation  of  the  Merrimack  was  fully  opened  and  the  river  became 
a  considerable  water  highway  whose  traffic  continued  for  some  years  after  the 
opening  of  the  Concord  railroad  in  1842.  The  manufacture  of  cloth  near  the 
Amoskeag  Falls  was  begun  before  Manchester  was  so  named  and,  in  the  year  of 
its  naming,  a  company  was  formed  known  as  the  Amoskeag  Cotton  and  Wool 
Factory.  This  company,  however,  had  httle  capital  or  machinery  and  its  output 
was  small.  In  the  year  183 1  the  present  Amoskeag  Manufacturing  Company  was 
chartered  with  a  capital  of  a  million  dollars,  a  large  sum  for  that  time,  and  Samuel 
Blodget's  dreams  of  the  future  began  in  some  degree  to  be  realized.  The  new 
company  was  organized  "for  the  purpose  of  taking  over  the  old  company,  devel- 
oping water  power,  acquiring  and  selling  land,  selHng  sites  and  power  to  other  man- 
ufacturing concerns,  building  and  operating  mills  of  its  own  and  so  bringing  about 
the  growth  of  a  flourishing  manufacturing  town  worthy  the  name  it  had  been 


122  MANCHESTER,  NEW   HAMPSHIRE 

given."  Other  prominent  companies  here  are  the  International  Cotton  Mills,  the 
largest  producers  of  cotton  duck  in  this  country,  and  the  W.  H.  McElwain  Com- 
pany, makers  of  shoes.  In  connection  with  all  these  industries  it  has  been  humor- 
ously remarked  that  if  one  of  the  old  Indian  chieftains  should  come  down  the  Mer- 
rimack in  his  canoe  in  quest  of  clothing,  he  could  obtain  a  complete  outfit  of  apparel 
made  in  Manchester  and  could  even  put  the  finishing  touch  to  his  modern  equipment 
by  placing  between  his  lips  a  Manchester-made  cigar. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  Manchester,  England,  obtained  a  city  charter 
only  eight  years  earlier  than  Manchester,  New  Hampshire,  and  that  the  English 
town  did  not  receive  the  title  of  city  until  its  namesake  had  enjoyed  that  honour 
for  seven  years.  Old  Manchester,  however,  had  had  a  long  history  before  it  could 
be  called  a  city.  On  the  banks  of  the  river  now  known  as  the  Irwell  in  that  part 
of  England  called  Lancashire  the  ancient  Romans  had  a  camp,  or"castrum," 
named  Mancunium.  The  Saxon  records  show  that  about  the  year  923  King 
Edward  sent  a  number  of  his  Mercian  troops  to  repair  and  garrison  the  fortress  of 
Manig-ceaster.  The  place  was  mentioned  in  the  Domesday  Book  as  one  of  four 
in  southeast  Lancashire.  It  is  known  that  woolen  manufacture  was  carried  on 
there  in  the  thirteenth  century  and  in  1552,  in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI,  laws  were 
passed  by  Parliament  regulating  the  length  of  Manchester  cotton,  which,  notwith- 
standing the  name,  was  probably  woolen.  In  1650  the  cloth  manufactures  of  Man- 
chester ranked  among  the  first  in  England  in  extent  and  importance,  and  its  people 
were  described  as  "the  most  industrious  in  the  northern  part  of  the  kingdom." 
The  inadequate  supply  of  cotton  goods  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century 
stimulated  efforts  for  increasing  the  means  of  production  and  the  machines  succes- 
sively invented  by  Arkwright,  Hargreaves  and  others  furnished  this  means;  the 
efficiency  of  these  machines  was  greatly  increased  by  the  perfection  of  Watt's 
steam-engine.  The  English  city  has  long  been  known  as  the  center  of  English 
cotton  manufacture  and,  if  the  entire  population  of  the  urban  district  were  in- 
cluded, greater  Manchester  would  probably  rival  London  in  the  number  of  its 
inhabitants.  To  such  a  Manchester,  it  may  well  be  believed,  there  is  "none  like 
nor  second." 

In  1783  the  English  Manchester,  with  Salford  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
had  a  population  of  39,000  mainly  given  over  to  the  manufacture  of  cloth,  and  it 
may,  therefore,  be  interesting  to  note  that  the  late  Hon.  Edwin  F.  Jones  found  in 
this  fact  a  literal  fulfillment  of  Samuel  Blodget's  prophecy.  "Our  Manchester," 
said  he,  speaking  in  1910,  "is  the  Manchester  of  America!  and  it  is  today  larger 
and  more  prosperous  than  was  the  original  Manchester  when  Judge  Blodget 
returned  from  England  in  1787." 

The  early  emigration  to  the  American  colonies  from  Manchester  and  the  dis- 
tricts nearby  was  very  small,  the  names  of  Henry  Dunster,  Samuel  Gorton,  Oba- 
diah  Holmes  and  the  ancestors  of  the  Sewell  and  Dana  families  being  the  only  ones 


MANCHESTER,  NEW   HAMPSHIRE  123 

we  are  able  to  trace  to  New  England.  Some  of  the  Saltonstall  family  are  well 
known  in  the  English  Manchester,  several  having  died  at  Holme  Hall. 

Manchester,  Massachusetts,  was  named  perhaps  for  Manchester,  England,  but 
more  probably  for  the  Earl  of  Manchester  who  had  an  official  connection  with  the 
colonies.  We  are  sure,  however,  that  those  who  settled  in  the  Massachusetts  town 
came  from  the  eastern  counties  of  England. 

There  are  also  places  by  the  name  of  Manchester  in  Connecticut,  Maine  and 
Vermont. 

MEDFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS 

MEDFORD,  one  of  the  earUest  permanent  settlements  of  the  Massachusetts 
Bay  Colony,  unlike  all  others,  was  the  proprietary  of  the  "Governour" 
of  the  colonizing  company  and  to  Matthew  Cradock  the  large  city  of 
today  owes  its  name.  Those  early  explorers.  Captain  John  Smith  and  Bartholo- 
mew Gosnold,  may  have  seen  or  looked  from  its  hills,  but  the  first  recorded  visit 
of  white  men  was  by  an  exploring  party  from  Plymouth  in  September  of  the  year 
1621,  consisting  of  "Standish  the  stalwart,  with  eight  of  his  valorous  army,  led  by 
their  Indian  guide  ..."  as  expressed  by  Longfellow.  They  encountered  some 
redskins  and  with  inducements  of  trade  and  promises  to  come  again  they  returned 
to  Plymouth.  It  was,  however,  left  to  others  to  become  Medford's  first  settlers, 
nearly  seven  years  later,  the  company  comprising  fishermen,  farmers  and  mechan- 
ics in  the  employ  of  Matthew  Cradock,  a  wealthy  merchant,  who,  besides  his  asso- 
ciated interests  in  the  "London  Company  of  Massachusetts  Bay,"  ventured  to  a 
certain  extent  on  his  own  account.  These  Englishmen  coming  to  Salem  in  the 
migration  of  1628,  or  earlier,  soon  found  their  way  to  the  Mistick  Valley  and  made 
a  permanent  settlement  "four  miles  along  the  river."  Title  to  this  territory  was 
later  confirmed  to  Cradock  by  the  General  Court,  thereby  making  it  his  proprie- 
tary. It  was  then  known  by  the  various  names  of  "Mr.  Cradock's  Farm," 
"Mistick"  and  "Medford."  It  was  also  styled  a  "plantation,"  but  was  never 
called  a  town  until  a  half-century  had  passed.  Cradock  has  been  called  "the 
Father  of  our  Medford,"  although  curiously  enough  he  never  came  overseas,  his 
business  here  being  conducted  by  agents.  He  was  the  first  president  of  the  trading 
company  chartered  by  King  Charles  I,  his  official  title  being  "Governour."  He 
suggested  the  transfer  of  the  Colony's  government  to  these  shores  but  resigned  his 
important  office  to  Winthrop,  who  brought  the  charter  with  him,  and  coincident 
with  this  charter  are  our  present  titles  of  Governor  and  General  Court.  Cradock 
had  a  country  seat  at  a  httle  hamlet  in  Staffordshire,  England,  called  Medford,  the 
EngKsh  name  having  been  spelled  at  different  times  Medford,  Metford,  Mepford, 
Mefford  and,  at  the  present  time,  Meaford.  It  is  considered  by  careful  historians 
that  he  gave  the  name  of  his  English  possession  to  this  new  venture  in  the  Bay 


124 


MEDFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  picture  published  by  T.  G.  Adie  b"  Co.  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

MEAFORD,   STAFFORDSHIRE,  ENGLAND 

Medford,  Massachusetts,  was  named  for  this  small  English  hamlet  which  was  the  country-seat  of  Matthew 
Cradock,  "  Governour  of  the  London  Company  of  Massachusetts  Bay."  Though  he  never  came  to  New 
England,  he  was  founder  of  our  Medford  and  until  his  death  was  its  sole  proprietor. 

Colony  and  that  his  agent  gave  it  to  the  General  Court,  the  clerk  of  which  spelled 
it  Meadford;  thus  it  appears  in  the  earliest  records  of  the  town  at  the  time  of  its 
incorporation  half  a  century  later.  It  is  also  spelled  in  this  way  by  Dudley  in  his 
letter  to  the  Countess  of  Lincoln,  from  which  shire,  as  well  as  from  Suffolk  and  Essex, 
came  these  early  Medford  settlers.  Cradock's  business  interests  were  none  too 
well  managed  by  his  agents,  although  at  first  they  were  considerable,  as  seen  in 
Wood's  "New  England  Prospect:" — 

"Mistic  .  .  .  is  seated  by  the  water-side  very  pleasantly;  there  are  not  many  houses 
as  yet.  .  .  .  On  the  east  side  is  Mr.  Cradock's  plantation  where  he  hath  impaled  a 
park  where  he  keeps  his  cattle  till  he  can  store  it  with  deer.  Here,  likewise,  he  is  at  charges 
of  building  ships.  The  last  year  one  was  upon  the  stocks  of  an  hundred  tons;  that  being 
finished  they  are  to  build  one  twice  her  burthen." 

After  Cradock's  death,  his  great  farm  passed  into  various  ownerships.  Several 
sons  of  Thomas  Brooks  settled  here,  one  branch  of  the  family  still  remaining  in 
possession  of  the  ancestral  acres  over  which  Standish  marched  and  where  died 
Nanepashemit,  the  Indian  king.  Other  descendants  were  John  Brooks,  seven 
years  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  Peter  Chardon  Brooks,  and  Rev.  Charles  Brooks, 
the  first  historian  of  Medford. 

"Mistick"  was  the  EngHshman's  way  of  pronouncing  the  name  of  the  river 


MEDFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS  '        125 

which  the  Indians  called  "Missi-tuk,"  meaning  ''the  great  tidal  river;"  Mystic  it 
is  still  called,  but  there  is  nothing  mystical  or  mysterious  about  it.  This  river, 
often  called  Medford  River,  was  a  highway  of  trade,  and  on  its  banks,  between 
1802  and  1873,  were  built  five  hundred  and  sixty-seven  vessels,— all  in  Medford, — 
a  remarkable  record.  The  names  of  some  of  the  people  who  have  contributed  to 
make  this  industry  so  famous  are  Magoun,  Turner,  Lapham,  Hastings,  Sprague, 
James,  Fuller,  Rogers,  Stetson,  Waterman,  Ewell,  Curtis,  Foster  and  Taylor.  One 
of  the  first  ships  launched  in  this  country  was  the  well-known  "Blessing  of  the 
Bay"  which  was  built  in  1631  at  "Ten  Hills  Farm,"  the  property  of  Governor 
Winthrop,  part  of  which  was  within  the  present  Kmits  of  Medford.  Of  "  Medford," 
the  first  recorded  mention  was  in  September,  1630,  when  a  tax  of  three  pounds  was 
levied  for  military  instruction. 

Fifteen  other  Medfords  in  as  many  States,  all  more  or  less  traceable  to  ours, 
bear  the  name  of  that  little  hamlet  on  the  river  Trent  in  Staffordshire,  in  old  Eng- 
land, the  country  home  of  Governor  Matthew  Cradock. 


NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 

"They  came,  so  simply  the  quaint  records  tell, 
'  From  England's  stately  homes '  they  loved  full  well, 
'For  conscience  and  religion's  sake,'  to  dwell 
'Amid  this  wilderness,'  by  God's  good  grace, 
To  rear  in  Quascacunquen,  Newbury's  race. 
This  goodly  land,  sea-fronting  levels  wide, 
Their  earnest  gaze  espied. 
Ripe  for  the  planting  of  a  continent." 

THE  above  is  an  extract  from  an  ode  written  by  Mrs.  Louisa  P.  Hopkins  on 
the  occasion  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of 
Newbury,  Massachusetts.  It  is  not  strictly  correct  to  state  that  these 
Newbury  settlers  came  to  this  country  for  "religion's  sake,"  for  they  came  really 
for  farming  and  stock-raising.  Many  of  them  did  not  separate  from  the  Church 
of  England  before  sailing  and  some  of  their  grandchildren  even  returned  to  this 
form  of  worship  and  built  Queen  Anne's  Chapel  in  171 1,  stating  that  they  were 
of  "the  pure  Episcopal  Church  of  England."  At  this  same  anniversary  celebra- 
tion Dr.  Samuel  C.  Bartlett  in  his  address  called  attention  to  the  words  of  Judge 
Samuel  Sewall,  who  was  born  a  few  years  after  the  settlement  of  our  Newbury. 
These  words  were  later  changed  into  verse  by  John  Greenleaf  Whittier  and  were 
published  in  the  history  of  the  town  issued  by  the  Towle  Manufacturing  Com- 
pany.    We  quote  the  first  part: — 

"As  long  as  Plum  Island,  to  guard  the  coast 
As  God  appointed,  shall  keep  its  post; 
As  long  as  the  salmon  shall  haunt  the  deep 
Of  Merrimac  River,  or  sturgeon  leap; 


126  NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 

As  long  as  pickerel,  swift  and  slim 

Or  red-backed  perch,  in  Crane  Pond  swim; 

As  long  as  the  annual  sea-fowl  know 

Their  time  to  come  and  their  time  to  go; 

As  long  as  cattle  shall  roam  at  will 

The  green,  grass  meadows  of  Turkey  Hill; 

As  long  as  sheep  shall  look  from  the  side 

Of  Oldtown  Hill  on  marshes  wide, 

And  Parker  River  and  salt-sea  tide; 

As  long  as  a  wandering  pigeon  shall  search 

The  fields  below  from  his  white-oak  perch, 

When  the  barley  harvest  is  ripe  and  shorn, 

And  the  dry  husks  fall  from  the  standing  corn; 

As  long  as  Nature  shall  not  grow  old, 

Nor  drop  her  work  from  her  doting  hold. 

And  her  care  for  the  Indian  corn  forget. 

And  the  yellow  rows  in  pairs  to  set; — 

So  long  shall  Christians  here  be  born. 

Grow  up  and  ripen  as  God's  sweet  corn!" 

This  prediction  of  the  prosperity  of  our  Newbury  has  materialized,  for  from  this 
early  settlement  also  started  West  Newbury,  the  city  of  Newburyport  and  other 
nearby  towns. 

The  people  of  Newbury  have  long  taken  a  great  interest  in  their  mother  town 
in  England  and  just  previous  to  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary,  on  mo- 
tion of  Mayor  Benjamin  Perley  Poore,  the  Committee  on  Literary  Exercises  was 
empowered  to  invite  the  Municipal  Authorities  and  other  delegates  from  Newbury, 
England,  to  participate  in  the  celebration.     The  following  answer  was  received: — 

"Borough  of  Newbury,  Berks. 

To  wit: 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Mayor  and  Corporation  of  the  said  Borough  held  at  the  Council 
Chamber  of  and  in  the  said  Borough  on  Tuesday  the  thirteenth  day  of  January,  one 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  eighty  five,  it  was  unanimously  Resolved — That  this  council 
desires  to  express  to  the  Mayor  and  Citizens  of  the  Town  of  Newburyport,  Massachu- 
setts, in  the  United  States  of  America,  its  hearty  congratulations  in  the  approaching 
celebration  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  Anniversary  of  its  Incorporation,  recognizing 
its  Municipality  as  in  some  sort  the  offspring  of  this  Ancient  Borough,  the  past  history 
of  which  is  so  largely  interwoven  with  that  of  the  Parent  Country.  That  they  desire  to 
greet  with  hearty  goodwill  and  sympathy  the  Municipality  of  Newburyport,  and  to  rejoice 
with  them  on  the  remarkable  progress  and  prosperity  which,  by  the  blessing  of  Providence, 
and  the  efforts  of  those  enterprising  men  who  in  the  Seventeenth  Century  left  their  native 
land  to  found  a  new  home  in  the  Western  Continent,  has  attended  their  Corporate  exist- 
ence for  so  long  a  period.  That  it  is  peculiarly  gratifying  to  the  Corporate  Body  and  to 
the  Inhabitants  of  this  Borough  to  know  that  a  former  Minister  of  this  Town — the  Rev'd. 
Thomas  Parker,  was  one  of  the  original  Settlers  at  Newburyport,  in  the  year  1634;  and 
that  the  name  of  a  Rector  of  this  Parish — the  Rev'd.  Benjamin  Woodbridge,  occupies  the 
first  place  on  the  List  of  Graduates  of  Harvard  University,  and  very  sincerely  do  they 
trust  that  the  town  of  Newburyport  may  continue  to  flourish  and  contribute  many  illus- 
trious names  to  the  Roll  of  American  Worthies. 


NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS  127 

Resolved  further: — That  a  Copy  of  these  Resolutions,  suitably  engrossed,  be 
sealed  with  the  Common  seal  of  the  Corporation,  signed  by  the  Mayor,  and  forwarded 
to  the  Mayor  of  Newburyport  by  the  Town  Clerk. 

William  Hall,  Mayor  (Seal) 
H.  Burke  Godwin,  Town  Clerk." 

The  English  town  sent  another  letter  a  short  time  later,  which  was  elaborately 
engraved  on  parchment  and  which  has  been  placed  in  the  archives  of  the  City  of 
Newburyport.  Another  e\ddence  of  the  interest  taken  by  the  English  town  in  her 
namesake  occurred  in  1911  when  at  the  suggestion  of  Walter  Money,  the  historian 
of  Newbury,  England,  Alfred  Camp,  Mayor  of  that  town,  sent  a  copy  of  the  charter 
of  incorporation  of  the  Borough  of  Newbury,  which  was  granted  by  Queen  Eliza- 
beth and  which  is  now  a  valued  relic  in  the  Historical  Society  of  Old  Newbury, 
JMassachusetts.  This  interesting  record  is  dated  1596  and  appoints  Bartholomew 
Yates  as  the  first  Mayor  of  the  town.     With  this  present  also  came  a  letter  from 

Mayor  Camp,  part  of  which  is  as  follows: — 

"March  16,  igii. 
Municipal  Buildings 
Newbury 
As  you  observe,  the  possession  of  this  photographic  copy  will  be  our  Historical  link 
between  our  ancient  Borough  and  your  own  Newburyport,  and  I  trust  while  being  so, 
it  will  also  be  a  worthy  addition  and  adornment  to  your  Museum  collection.     Wishing 
Newburyport  all  prosperity  in  its  future  career,  and  in  emulation  of  the  best  traditions 
of  the  old  Borough  and  Country, 
Believe  me, 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

Alfred  Camp,  MayorJ' 

A  few  years  ago.  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse,  Rector  of  All  Saints  Church,  West 
Newbury,  and  President  of  the  Historical  Society  of  Old  Newbury,  visited  the  old 
town  in  England  and  there  met  Mr.  Money  and  officials  of  the  town.  When  Mr. 
Morse  built  his  church,  he  wrote  to  the  Rector  of  St.  Nicholas  Church  in  Newbury, 
England,  and  asked  him  if  he  would  send  him  a  stone  or  some  present  to  place  in 
his  church  here.  The  war  started  soon  after,  which  prevented  at  that  time  the 
carrying  out  of  this  suggestion,  but  in  February,  1920,  Mr.  Morse  received  from 
him  a  Bible  which  had  been  used  for  many  years  in  the  Lady  Chapel  of  St.  Nicholas 
Church.  Mr.  Morse,  as  can  be  seen  by  the  photographs  of  both  churches,  followed 
the  perpendicular  Gothic  style  of  architecture  of  the  Newbury  church  when  he  super- 
intended the  building  of  his  church  in  West  Newbury  in  191 2.  Mr.  Morse  has  taken 
a  great  interest  in  the  old  town  as  his  ancestors  were  among  the  early  settlers.  An- 
other visit  we  should  mention  was  made  by  Rev.  Mr.  Titmarsh,  pastor  of  the  Congre- 
gational church  in  Newbury,  England,  who  came  to  Newbury,  Massachusetts,  at  the 
time  of  the  International  Conference  of  Congregational  Churches,  which  was  held  in 
Boston  in  1899,  and  while  here  he  preached  at  the  First  Church  in  Newbury  and  also 
spoke  before  the  Historical  Society,  where  he  told  them  all  about  his  town. 


128 


NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  print  Kindness  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse 

ALL   SAINTS   CHURCH,  WEST   NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 

This  church  was  built  in  1913-14  under  the  supervision  of  its  Rector,  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse,  who  followed 
the  character  of  St.  Nicholas  Church  in  Newbury,  England,  shown  in  another  illustration. 

The  earliest  commemoration  of  the  settlement  of  our  Newbury  of  which  we  have 
any  knowledge  was  the  first  Centennial  held  in  1735  which,  according  to  tradition, 
took  place  in  Col.  Joseph  Cofhn's  front  yard.  Another  celebration  in  the  town 
took  pl?Lce  in  1759,  when  the  British  and  Colonial  Arms  were  triumphant  at  Que- 
bec. The  citizens  on  this  occasion  are  said  to  have  roasted  an  ox  in  the  west  yard 
of  Mr.  Lowell's  meeting-house,  when  they  doubtless  sang  these  and  other  words: — 

"With  true  British  valour  we  broke  every  line 
And  conquered  Quebec  in  the  year  fifty-nine." 

The  lands  near  Newbury  had  for  some  time  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Eng- 
lish, for  we  read  that  one  William  Wood  returned  to  the  old  country  in  1633  after 
a  four  years'  residence  in  Massachusetts,  and  pubhshed  in  London  a  book  giving 
a  "description  of  that  part  of  America  commonly  called  New  England,"  and  in  this 
review  of  all  the  settlements  he  reserved  his  choicest  words  for  the  last.  "  Agawam  " 
he  says,  "is  the  best  place  but  one,  vrhich  is  Merrimack,  lying  eight  miles  beyond 


NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


129 


from  an  old  print  Brought  from   \  '     il  nid,  bv  Rfv.  (jUnn  TilL-y  Mor^e 

ST.  NICHOLAS   CHURCH,  NEWBURY,  ENGLAND 

The  character  of  this  church  was  copied  by  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse,  when  All  Saints  Church  in  West 
Newbury,  Massachusetts,  was  built  in  1913. 

it,  where  is  a  river  twenty  leagues  navigable.  All  along  the  river  are  fresh  marshes, 
in  some  places  three  miles  broad.  In  this  river  is  sturgeon,  salmon  and  bass,  and 
divers  other  kinds  of  fishes.  To  conclude,  the  country  hath  not  that  which  this 
place  does  not  yield."     His  Merrimack  was  our  Newbury. 

It  takes  but  little  imagination  to  see  the  first  Httle  band,  consisting  of  about 
twenty-three  men  and  their  famiHes,  as  they  sailed  from  Ipswich  one  morning  in 
the  spring  of  1635,  wending  their  way  through  Plum  Island  Sound  and  up  the 
Parker  River  to  a  spot  on  its  northern  bank  one  hundred  rods  below  the  present 
bridge,  where  Nicholas  Noyes  was  said  to  be  the  first  to  leap  ashore.  This  spot  is 
held  quite  sacred  by  the  people  of  Newbury,  who  placed  there  a  stone,  shown  in 
the  illustration  on  the  next  page,  the  inscription  upon  which  reads  as  follows  :— 

1902 

LANDING   PLACE 

OF    THE 

FIRST   SETTLERS 

1635 


I30 


NEWBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photogr-iph  by  Noyes,  Neicburyport  Kindness  Miss  Harr'cHe  E.  Jones  and  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse 

STONE  MARKING  LANDING  PLACE  OF  THE  FIRST  SETTLERS,  1635,  ON  PARKER 
RIVER,  NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 

It  is  placed  not  far  from  the  Ship  Monument. 

Rev.  Thomas  Parker  and  James  Noyes  were  also  with  these  pioneers  and  were 
chosen  pastor  and  "teacher,"  respectively,  of  their  church.  Farther  up  the  river, 
on  Oldtown  lower  green,  has  been  placed  another  monument,  surmounted  by  a 
model  of  a  ship  of  the  old  days,  erected  in  honour  of  these  early  settlers,  the  inscrip- 
tion being  as  follows: — 

To  the  men  and  women 
who  settled  in  Newbury 
from  1635  to  1650  and 
founded  its  municipal 
1.  social  and  religious  life, 

this  monument  is  dedicated 
1905 

Rev.  Benjamin  Woodbridge,  a  settler  in  the  town,  has  the  honour  of  having  ranked 
first  in  the  first  class  graduated  from  Harvard  College. 

Curiously  enough,  Newbury  in  Massachusetts  was  formerly  called  Old  Newbury, 
although  before  this  it  was  named  Oldtown  and  still  before  that  Wescussacco ;  its 
present  name  of  Newbury  was  given  in  the  year  1635.  In  this  year  the  General 
Court  of  the  Colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay  appointed  a  board  of  commissioners  to 
set  out  the  bounds  between  Ipswich  and  Quascacunquen  and  at  the  same  time 
ordered  that  the  new  plantation  should  be  called  Newbury  from  the  old  town  in 


NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


131 


Berkshire,  England,  where  Rev. 
Mr.  Parker  had  preached  before 
coming  to  this  country.  The  Hst 
of  names  identified  with  the  early 
history  of  Newbury  is  a  long 
one  and  includes  Daniel  Pierce, 
Thomas  and  James  Noyes,  Henry 
Sewall,  Caleb  Moody,  Anthony 
Morse,  Captain  Stephen  Green- 
leaf,  Richard  Dummer,  Colonel 
Kent  and  Edward  Rawson;  while 
those  names  later  identified  with 
the  town  were  Adams,  Chase, 
Poore,  Hale,  Lunt,  Somerby, 
Lowell,  Little,  Sawyer,  Bartlett, 
Brown,  Jaques,  Knight,  Emery 
and  Titcomb.  Newburyport  was 
not  incorporated  until  1764,  this 
step  being  taken  chiefly  on  ac- 
count of  the  need  for  public  school 
accommodations  in  that  part  of 
the  township.  The  best-known 
names  in  this  flourishing  city  are 
Lowell,  Dalton,  Tracy,  Jackson, 
Todd,  Cushing,  Sawyer,  Coffin, 
Jones,  Wheelwright,  Huse,  Cary, 
Greenleaf,  Hooper  and  Moseley; 
while  those  who  were  best  known 
in  West  Newbury  soon  after  its 
settlement  were  Moses  and  Joshua 
Brown,  Josiah  Bartlett,  Benjamin 
Perley  Poore,  also  the  Ordway, 
Chase,  Johnson,  Dole,  Greenleaf, 
Little,  Smith,  Bailey,  Emery, 
Rogers,  Felton  and  Morse  fami- 
lies. Timothy  Dexter,  who  origi- 
nated the  well-known  T.  D.  pipe, 

was  one  of  the  curious  characters  of  Newburyport  in  recent  times.  At  the  time 
that  he  wrote  his  book  ''A  Pickle  for  the  Knowing  Ones,"  there  were  so  many 
discussions  in  regard  to  proper  punctuation  that  he  left  out  all  marks  of  punctu- 
ation in  the  body  of  his  book  but  at  the  end  printed  several  pages  of  periods, 


Photographed  by  Noyes,  Newburyport 


Kindness  Miss  Harriette  E.  Jones 
and  Rev.  Glenn  Tilley  Morse 


SHIP  MONUMENT  PLACED  ON  THE  OLDTOWN 
LOWER  GREEN  IN  NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

in  honour  of  the  early  settlers.  Their  leader  was  Rev. 
Thomas  Parker,  who  had  previously  preached  in  Newbury, 
England,  and  it  was  out  of  respect  to  him  that  this  name 
was  given  to  the  Massachusetts  town.  The  names  of  all 
the  earliest  settlers  are  on  the  other  side  of  this  memorial. 


132 


NEWBURY.   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  from  an  old  print  in  the  Marine  Museum,  Boston,  Massachusetts  Kindness  Rohert  /?.  Snuih,  Es'j. 

NEWBURYPORT,  MASSACHUSETTS,  IX    1847,  FROM   SALISBURY 

Newburj-port  was  at  one  time  a  part  of  Newbury. 

commas,  etc.,  which  he  declared  the  reader  could  insert  as  he  desired.  It  is  a 
curious  fact  that  from  near  Indian  Hill  Farm,  West  Newbury,  can  be  seen  many 
towns  which  bear  the  same  names  as  English  ones,  such  as  Newbury,  SaHsbury, 
Gloucester,  Hampton,  Exeter,  Amesbury  and  Andover;  in  fact  almost  all  of  the 
names  in  this  region  betray  the  origin  of  its  colonists.  Settlers  from  Newbury  also 
helped  found  the  towns  of  Nantucket,  Concord,  New  Hampshire,  Andover,  Haver- 
hill, Salisbury  and  Hampton. 

There  is  also  a  Newbury  in  New  Hampshire  and  one  in  Vermont. 

St.  Paul's  Church  in  Newburyport  used  to  own  some  silver  plate  that  was 
sent  over  by  King  William  and  Queen  Mary,  but  this  was  stolen  from  the 
church  in  1887  and  has  never  been  recovered,  though  dupHcates  have  been  made. 
Another  fact  of  interest  is  the  bell  presented  by  the  Bishop  of  London  in 
1 7 18  to  Queen  Anne's  chapel,  situated  on  the  road  between  West  Newbury 
and  Newburyport. 

Newbury,  England,  is  on  the  river  Kennet,  a  branch  of  the  Thames,  and  was 
once  known  as  "New  Bourg,"  being  situated  on  the  road  between  London  and 
Bath.  The  town  was  formerly  noted  for  the  manufacture  of  cloth,  an  industry 
which  started  during  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  In  this  trade  the  most  prominent 
character  seems  to  have  been  "Jack  of  Newbury,"  as  he  has  been  called,  who, 
according  to  tradition,  proved  himself  a  hero  during  the  battle  of  Flodden  Field 


NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


133 


From  a  pamphlet  printed  by  the  Towle  Manujacturing  Company,  Newburyport,  Massachusetts 

NEWBURY   STREET,  NEWBURY,  ENGLAND 

when  he  and  his  brother  warriors  fought  so  bravely  that  they  have  gone  down 
in  history  in  these  words: — 

"The  Cheshire  lads  were  brisk  and  brave, 
And  the  Kendall  Laddies  as  free, 
But  none  surpassed  or  I'm  a  knave 
The  Laddies  of  Newberrie." 

Another  interesting  event  in  the  town's  history  has  been  handed  down  to  us.  In 
the  year  181 1,  Sir  John  Throckmorton  made  a  bet  of  one  thousand  guineas  that 
John  Coxeter,  an  experienced  weaver,  could  produce  a  finished  woolen  coat  from  the 
raw  material  on  the  sheep's  back  all  within  the  space  of  twenty-four  hours.  This 
he  succeeded  in  doing,  much  to  the  surprise  of  those  who  lost  their  money  by  betting 
against  Sir  John,  and  the  winner  of  the  wager  sat  down  to  dirmer  that  same  evening 
wearing  the  garment.  It  still  exists  and  has  been  sent  to  a  number  of  exhibi- 
tions, including  the  International  one  in  1851;  also  a  painting  recording  this  episode 
was  made  at  the  time  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of  one  of  the  family. 

In  the  old  days  the  people  of  Newbury  often  journeyed  by  stage  to  Bath  where 
they  would  spend  their  hohdays  and  as  it  was  possible  to  carry  very  little  baggage 
on  the  coach  with  them,  it  is  said  that  the  women  usually  had  to  wait  indoors  sev- 
eral days  after  their  arrival  until  their  fine  dresses  came  up  later  by  wagon.     In 


134 


NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


• 


Kindness  S.  C.  Reed,  Esq. 


From  a  ■photograph 

JACK  OF  NEWBURY'S  HOUSE,  NEWBURY, 
ENGLAND, 

the  old  Cloth  Hall,  now  used  as  a  museum.  One  of  the 
most  prominent  characters  in  the  cloth  trade  was  "Jack 
of  Newbury."  A  picture  of  this  ancient  house  hangs, 
with  other  photographs,  in  the  Public  Library  of  New- 
bur>T5ort,  Massachusetts. 


Newbury     is     a    parish     called 

Speenhamland  and  it  was  there 

that  the  well-known  Pelican  Inn, 

so  noted  for  its  good  dinners  and 

high  prices,   received   the    many 

stage-coach  travelers,  one  of  whom 

wrote  these  amusing  hnes: — 

"The  famous  inn  at  Speenhamland 
That  stands  below  the  hill, 
May  well  be  called  the  Pelican 
From  its  enormous  bill." 

In  ancient  times  the  Newbury 
church  appointed  officers  called 
"dog  rappers,"  whose  duty  it  was 
to  drive  dogs  out  of  church  should 
they  wander  within  its  doors,  the 
whips  carried  by  these  officials 
being  used  by  the  church  wardens 
as  symbols  of  service.  Another 
event  in  the  early  history  of  New- 
bury was  the  siege  of  the  castle 
in  the  year  1 152  by  King  Stephen. 
There  is  practically  nothing  left 
of  the  fortress,  though  a  picture 
of  it  on  the  seal  of  the  old  town 
still  reminds  us  of  its  previous 
existence.      This  castle  was  de- 


fended during  the  siege  by  John 
Marshall,  the  representative  of  Matilda,  who  was  the  daughter  of  Henry  I.  Mar- 
shall, in  command  of  the  castle  forces,  pretended  that  he  was  desirous  of  consulting 
Matilda  in  regard  to  surrender  and  arranged  with  the  enemy  to  grant  an  armistice, 
giving  his  little  son  as  a  hostage;  but,  in  the  meantime,  he  secretly  endeavored  to 
get  provisions.  His  scheme  was  discovered  by  King  Stephen,  who  ordered  that 
the  boy  should  be  thrown  by  a  sling  against  the  castle  walls.  Fortunately  the 
King  relented.  Several  times  as  he  was  about  to  murder  the  hostage  he  changed 
his  mind  and  finally  promised  to  spare  his  Hfe.  A  few  days  later  the  two  were 
seen  playing  some  game  together,  the  King  having  become  very  fond  of  the  boy. 
Near  Newbury  is  the  Falkland  memorial  which  was  built  in  1878  to  commemo- 
rate Lord  Falkland  and  those  of  his  friends  who  died  on  the  field  of  Newbury  while 
fighting  on  the  King's  side.  The  old  Cloth  Hall,  now  a  museum,  is  an  interesting 
example  of  mediaeval  architecture.     Another  object  of  interest  is  the  market-place 


NEWBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS  135 

containing  the  municipal  buildings  and  a  statue  of  Queen  Victoria  presented  to 
the  borough  by  the  well-known  circus  king,  George  Sanger,  who  was  born  in  the 
town.  Horse  races  were  also  held  in  the  town  as  early  as  the  time  of  King  Charles 
II.     The  Mortimer  family  owned  much  land  there  at  one  time. 

NEWCASTLE,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

ALTHOUGH  Newcastle  was  probably  not  directly  named  for  Newcastle, 
/%  England,  yet  the  town,  with  its  narrow  rambhng  streets  and  small  low 
A  \^  houses,  reminds  one  so  much  of  the  English  fishing  villages  of  Cornwall 
and  Devon  from  which  many  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  Island  came,  that  we  are 
going  to  include  in  this  book  a  number  of  interesting  connections  between  the 
New  Hampshire  town  and  the  mother  country. 

In  1873,  the  postmaster  of  Newcastle,  New  Hampshire,  Mr.  H.  M.  Curtis,  re- 
ceived a  letter  written  by  Mr.  Henry  Starr  of  London,  informing  him  that  one  of  his 
friends,  a  certain  Captain  Bokenham,  of  Hertfordshire,  England,  had  in  his  posses- 
sion some  of  the  early  records  of  this  New  Hampshire  town.  The  inhabitants  were 
very  much  astonished  and  were  very  skeptical  as  to  the  authenticity  of  these  docu- 
ments, but  finally  decided  to  inquire  what  expense  there  would  be  in  getting  them 
back.  Much  to  the  surprise  and  delight  of  the  people  of  Newcastle  the  reply  was 
the  volumes  themselves,  which  came  by  the  next  English  mail  and  proved  to  be 
the  records  from  the  date  of  the  incorporation  of  the  town  in  1693  to  the  year 
1726,  in  perfect  preservation  and  written  in  the  handwriting  of  Francis  Tucker, 
Theodore  Atkinson  and  Sampson  Sheafe,  three  of  the  earlier  officials  of  the  town. 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that  Captain  Bokenham,  in  whose  house  the  records  were  found, 
had  no  idea  how  they  came  there  and  no  definite  conclusion  has  ever  been  arrived 
at.  These  records  were  all  the  more  valuable  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  early 
records  of  the  neighboring  city  of  Portsmouth  had  been  destroyed  by  fire.  The 
town  of  Newcastle  at  the  next  annual  meeting,  held  in  1874,  passed  a  vote  of  thanks 
to  the  gentlemen  who  had  discovered  and  given  the  records  and  this  vote  was 
engrossed  on  parchment  and  sent  to  London. 

An  interesting  custom  adopted  at  the  early  town  meetings  was  described  by 
an  inhabitant,  who  stated  that  the  voters  used  to  deliberate  with  their  hats  on,  as 
they  wished  to  copy  the  British  Parliament.  Another  custom  in  the  early  times 
was  for  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  Province  to  assemble  at  the  fort  and  to  fire  a 
salute  whenever  any  important  news  came  from  England. 

The  town  of  Newcastle,  at  first  called  "■  Great  Island,"  was  not  incorporated  until 
1693,  although  it  was  settled  before  the  neighboring  city  of  Portsmouth,  and  for  the 
first  seventy-five  years  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  New  Hampshire  and  also 
the  place  of  residence  of  the  Governors.  The  chief  industry  of  the  town  used  to  be, 
and  still  is  to  a  certain  extent,  its  fisheries,  and  in  the  old  days  one  of  the  principal 


136 


NEWCASTLE,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  William  D.  Turner,  Esq. 

A  STREET  IN  NEWCASTLE,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE 

This  attractive  fishing  village,  with  its  narrow,  winding  streets  and  quaint  low  houses,  is  much  like  some  of 
the  EngHsh  fishing  villages  of  Cornwall  and  Devon. 

town  officials  had  the  title  of  "culler  of  fish  and  staves."  It  is  also  a  well-known 
fact  that  the  States  of  New  Hampshire  and  Maine  both  owe  their  discovery  and 
early  settlement  to  the  fishing  industry  carried  on  by  the  English  from  their  own 
harbours.  Many  distinguished  families  have  lived  in  Newcastle  and  among  the 
most  prominent  in  Colonial  days  were  the  Sheafes,  Atkinsons,  Jaffreys,  Vaughans, 
Waltons,  Jacksons,  Wentworths,  Frosts  and  Odiornes.  In  mentioning  the  Sheafes  it 
might  be  well  to  record  that  a  member  of  the  family  owned  the  original  settlement 
of  Newcastle  and  that  the  family  has  been  very  prominent  both  in  New  Hampshire 
and  in  Massachusetts.  Their  ancestors  came  from  Kent,  England,  and  there  is  in 
that  county  an  interesting  inscription  on  a  family  monument  reading  as  follows: — 

Here  are  buried  under  this  stone, 
Thomas  Sheff  and  his  wife,  Marion; 
Sometyme  we  warr  as  yee  now  bee 
And  now  we  are  as  bee  shall  yee; 
Wherefore  of  your  charite. 
Pray  for  us  to  the  Trinite. 

Obyt.  Mccckxxxiii 


NEWCASTLE,   NEW  HAMPSHIRE 


137 


From  "Newcastle"  by  John  Allref,  i 


NEWCASTLE,  NEW  HAMPSfflRE 


Kindness  Williavi  D.  Turner,  Esq. 


It  was  formerly  called  "Great  Island"  and  was  for  seventy-five  years  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  New 
Hampshire  and  seat  of  the  Royal  Governors.  "Little  Harbour"  is  seen  on  the  right.  The  river  Piscataqua 
runs  past  both  sides  of  the  island,  which  is  connected  with  Portsmouth  only  by  a  causeway. 

Governor  Wentworth's  mansion  is  at  Little  Harbour  and  here  have  lived  many 
of  the  family,  so  prominent  in  the  history  of  the  State.  Here  Samuel  Wentworth, 
ancestor  of  three  Governors  and  one  of  Newcastle's  most  respected  citizens,  kept  a 
tavern  called  "At  Ye  Sign  of  Ye  Dolphin."  We  wish  that  we  had  more  space  to 
describe  others  of  the  bygone  days. 

The  people  of  Newcastle  were  very  independent,  and  it  was  said  that  the  only 
time  citizens  of  Portsmouth  took  any  interest  in  them  was  just  before  election, 
for  the  Island  vote  was  so  influential  in  the  state  elections  that  there  was  a  proph- 
ecy "as  goes  Newcastle,  so  goes  the  State." 

It  has  been  said  that  a  Newcastle  sailor,  as  soon  as  he  was  able,  always  returned 
to  his  birthplace  like  the  Kentites  of  the  old  days.  It  has  also  been  claimed  that 
the  natives  were  so  attached  to  their  home  that  when  a  woman  native  of  the  town 
married  a  man  who  did  not  live  on  the  island  the  husband  always  had  to  move 
his  residence  and  business  to  her  place  of  abode. 

There  are  said  to  be  many  unmarked  graves  on  the  island,  and  one  of  the  farm- 
ers, who  did  a  great  deal  of  plowing  with  his  yoke  of  oxen,  said  that  he  was  always 
in  fear  lest  his  cattle  should  stumble  into  one  of  the  ancient  graves,  an  accident 
which  he  admitted  had  often  happened.     He  used  to  boast  that  he  knew  where 


138  NEWCASTLE,   NEW   HAMPSHIRE 

many  of  the  family  burial  places  were,  although  they  were  not  marked.  ''I've 
been  in  them,"  he  said.  "In  old  times  they  didn't  dig  very  deep,  and  when  the 
coffin  gets  empty  and  the  wood  thin  and  a  heavy  ox  steps  on  the  right  place  down 
he  goes."  Another  citizen  of  the  town  asked  a  friend  of  his  how  he  could  find  out 
his  family  history.     "By  running  for  office"  was  the  amusing  reply. 

The  most  important  visitor  to  Newcastle  was  George  Washington  who  visited 
there  in  1789;  naturally,  the  natives  immediately  took  him  fishing,  but,  of  course, 
catching  a  fish  was  out  of  the  question  on  account  of  the  din  of  the  brass  band.  A 
bright  fisherman,  however,  anticipating  this  possibility,  had  tied  a  fish  to  the  end 
of  his  line  and  "the  Father  of  his  Country"  hauled  up  a  large  cod  which  should 
have  been  mounted  and  placed  among  other  Newcastle  antiquities.  Washington 
was  entertained  at  the  Wentworth  mansion  and  a  salute  in  his  honour  was  fired 
from  Fort  Constitution.  This  fort  was  occupied  by  many  of  our  soldiers  during  the 
Great  War. 

There  is  also  a  Newcastle  in  Maine. 

Newcastle,  in  Northumberland,  claimed  a  number  of  ships  by  the  name  "May- 
flower." The  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  England  took  no  active  interest  in  the 
Puritan  movement. 

NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT 

"  Whereas,  It  hath  been  a  commendable  practice  of  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  colonies 
of  these  parts,  that  as  this  country  hath  its  denomination  from  our  dear  native  country  of 
England,  and  thence  is  called  New  England,  so  the  planters,  in  their  first  settUng  of  most 
new  plantations,  have  given  names  to  those  plantations  of  some  cities  and  towns  in  England, 
thereby  intending  to  keep  up  and  leave  to  posterity  the  memorial  of  several  places  of  note 
there,  as  Boston,  Hartford,  Windsor,  York,  Ipswich,  Braintree,  Exeter.  This  court  con- 
sidering that  there  hath  yet  no  place  in  any  of  the  colonies  been  named  in  memory  of  the 
city  of  London,  there  being  a  new  plantation  within  this  jurisdiction  of  Connecticut, 
settled  upon  the  fair  river  of  Monhegin,  in  the  Pequot  country,  it  being  an  excellent  har- 
bour, and  a  fit  and  convenient  place  for  future  trade,  it  being  also  the  only  place  which 
the  English  of  these  parts  have  possessed  by  conquest,  and  that  by  a  very  just  war,  upon 
the  great  and  warlike  people,  the  Pequots,  that  therefore,  they  might  thereby  leave  to 
posterity  the  memory  of  that  renowned  city  of  London,  from  whence  we  had  our  trans- 
portation, have  thought  fit,  in  honor  to  that  famous  city,  to  call  the  said  plantation  New 
London." 

THE  above  was  the  vote  passed  by  the  General  Court  on  March  24,  1658, 
granting  permission  to  the  early  settlers  to  use  the  name  "New  London." 
It  had  been  the  wish  of  these  pioneers  that  their  adopted  town  should  bear  the 
name  of  London,  but  there  was  a  difference  of  opinion,  some  of  the  colony  prefer- 
ring the  name  of  Faire  Harbour.  They  persisted,  however,  in  calling  it  by  its  earHer 
Indian  names  of  Pequot  and  Nameaug  until  they  finally  had  their  wish  gratified  by 
being  allowed  to  use  the  name  they  desired.  It  was  quite  natural  that  they  should 
also  want  the  river,  which  had  been  called  up  to  that  time  "Monhegin"  (often 


NEW  LONDON,   CONNECTICUT  139 

spelled  Mohegan)  changed  shortly  after  the  naming  of  the  town  (now  a  city)  to 
the  Thames  for  the  EngKsh  river  so  well  described  by  Pope  in  these  words: — 

"My  eye  descending  from  the  hill,  surveys 
Where  Thames  among  the  wanton  valleys  strays. 
Thames,  the  most  loved  of  all  the  ocean's  sons. 
By  his  old  sire  to  his  embraces  runs." 

From  the  time  that  Block  explored  this  coast  and  named  the  island  "Block 
Island,"  probably  no  civilized  person  landed  on  the  shores  of  New  London  until 
Captain  John  Endicott  went  there  in  1636,  as  he  was  returning  to  Boston  from 
an  expedition  against  the  Indians,  when  he  landed  at  Groton  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  Thames.  A  year  later  the  Stoughton  expedition  pitched  camp  at  New 
London  and  built  the  first  English  house  ever  erected  in  the  place. 

The  settlement  was  formed  in  the  year  1646  by  the  son  of  Gov.  John  Winthrop 
of  ISIassachusetts,  who  bore  the  same  name  as  his  father.  He  was  assisted  by  his 
friend  Rev.  Thomas  Peters,  a  brother  of  the  well-known  Hugh  Peters  of  Salem. 
The  Massachusetts  Court  gave  these  two  men  authority  to  govern  the  plantation, 
although  it  was  soon  after  decided  that  it  did  not  come  under  the  jurisdiction  of 
Massachusetts,  but  belonged  to  Connecticut.  We  think  it  may  be  interesting  to 
sketch  the  career  of  young  Winthrop  who,  we  are  told,  was  a  pioneer,  traveler, 
scholar,  statesman,  lawyer,  magistrate  and  physician.  We  first  hear  of  him  as 
advising  his  father  to  come  to  this  country  and  it  is  very  probable  that  he  influ- 
enced his  parent's  decision.  He  was  born  in  1606  in  the  home  of  his  ancestors  in 
Groton,  England.  In  1631  he  was  married  and  sailed  for  Boston  the  latter  part 
of  the  same  year,  whereupon  he  busied  himself  with  the  founding  of  Ipswich,  as  we 
have  described  in  our  story  on  that  town,  where  he  Hved  until  he  took  up  his  resi- 
dence in  New  London  in  the  year  1647.  In  the  meantime  he  made  a  trip  to  Eng- 
land in  1635,  where  he  married  again,  returning  to  this  country  in  the  same  year 
with  a  commission  from  Lord  Saye  and  Sele,  Lord  Brooke  and  Sir  Richard  Salton- 
stall  and  others  "to  begin  a  plantation  at  Connecticut  and  be  Governor  there." 
This  settlement  he  called  "Saybrook"  in  honour  of  the  two  Lords  who  gave  him 
the  grant.  It  is  also  interesting  to  note  that  while  forming  this  colony  he  coasted 
along  the  shore  and  visited  the  mouth  of  the  Thames  River,  which  he  liked  so 
much  that  he  finally  was  induced  to  start  a  settlement  at  New  London.  He  moved, 
however,  none  too  soon  to  the  Connecticut  River,  for  hardly  had  his  vessels  ap- 
peared than  the  Dutch  likewise  hove  in  sight,  but  as  the  English  flag  and  the 
Enghsh  cannon  had  just  been  placed  there  ahead  of  them,  they  prudently  turned 
back  their  prows  towards  New  York.  Winthrop  remained  "  Governor  of  the  river 
Connecticut,  with  the  places  adjoining  thereunto"  for  the  space  of  one  year  as 
commissioned  by  the  patentees,  then  returned  to  the  town  of  Ipsv.ich  which  he 
had  previously  founded  in  the  Bay  Colony.  Some  years  later  he  went  abroad, 
returning  in  1643  with  workmen,  tools  and  stock  with  which  to  take  up  the  busi- 


140 


NEW  LONDON,   CONNECTICUT 


f^ 

-  ill       ''  mf^V   *''}       Y      '  ' 

From  a  picture  published  by  H.  D.  Utley,  New  London,  Conn.  kindness  Frnett  E   Roger  ,  Liq. 

OLD  TOWN   GRIST  MILL,   NEW  LONDON,   CONNECTICUT, 

established  by  John  Winthrop,  the  younger,  when  he  was  chief  magistrate  of  New  London  in  1650.  It  was 
used  continuously  until  a  few  years  ago.  It  is  now  owned  by  the  city  and  is  kept  intact  as  an  historic 
building. 

ness  of  smelting  and  refining  iron  at  Lynn  and  Braintree,  which,  for  a  time,  was 
prosecuted  with  zeal  and  success,  thereby  earning  him  the  distinction  of  being  the 
first  person  in  the  United  States  to  engage  in  that  business.  In  1644  he  obtained 
from  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  this  grant  "  1644,  June  28.  Granted  to 
Mr.  Winthrop,  a  plantation  at  or  near  Pequod  [New  London]  for  iron  works." 
As  we  have  noted,  he  began  the  settlement  of  New  London  in  1646,  estabhshing 
a  town  government  the  next  year.  His  family  also  moved  there  the  same  year 
and  has  been  represented  in  the  community  ever  since.  He  was  Governor  of 
Connecticut  by  election  in  1657  and  in  1659  and  every  year  after  that  until  the 
time  of  his  death  in  1676,  an  honour  conferred  upon  no  other  Governor  of  the 
State.  Still  another  position  had  been  thrust  upon  him  in  1641,  when  Massa- 
chusetts sent  him  to  the  Court  of  St.  James,  where  he  showed  great  abihty.  He 
chose  a  tomb  for  himself  in  New  London,  but  death  overtook  him  on  a  visit  to 
Boston  and  he  was  therefore  buried  with  his  father  in  the  family  vault  in  King's 
Chapel  Cemetery.  Henry  Winthrop  who  resides  in  New  London  at  the  present 
time  is  a  direct  descendant  of  John  Winthrop. 

The  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  settlement  of  New  London  was 
celebrated  in  May,  1896,  on  which  occasion  the  corner-stone  of  the  monument  to 


From  a  photograph  by  Boston  Photo  News  Co. 


ABRAHAM  LINCOLN 


The  St.  Gaudens  statue,  a  replica  of  which  was  formally  presented  to  the  British  nation  by  the  Hon. 
Elihu  Root  on  behalf  of  the  American  people,  and  unveiled  in  London  by  the  Duke  of  Connaught 
on  July  29,  1920.     This  is  one  of  the  latest  connecting  links  between  the  Old  World  and  the  New. 


142 


NEW  LONDON,   CONNECTICUT 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  Ernest  E.  Rogers,  Esq. 

STATUE  OF  JOHN  WINTHROP,  THE  YOUNGER,  IN  NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT, 

unveiled  in  1905. 

He  was  the  first  governor  of  Connecticut  by  appointment  of  the  original  patentees  Lord  Saye  and  Sele, 
Lord  Brooke  and  others  in  1635;  also  the  first  governor  of  Connecticut  under  the  charter  which  he  ob- 
tained from  King  Charles  II  in  1662.  His  father  was  John  Winthrop,  governor  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay 
Colony. 

In  the  background  is  the  oldest  cemetery  in  Connecticut,  east  of  the  Connecticut  River,  and  in  it  is  the 
Winthrop  family  tomb  where  he  expected  to  be  buried,  but  as  he  died  while  in  Boston  he  was  buried  in 
King's  Chapel  Burying  Ground,  in  his  father's  tomb. 

John  Winthrop,  the  younger,  was  laid,  and  also  the  Soldiers  and  Sailors  memorial 
was  dedicated.  Some  years  later,  in  1905,  Bela  L.  Pratt,  the  sculptor  of  his  statue, 
received  a  telegram  saying,  ''John  Winthrop  has  arrived."  The  monument  was 
unveiled  the  same  year  by  Master  Henry  C.  Winthrop,  Jr.,  the  youngest  male  de- 
scendant of  the  distinguished  Governor  bearing  the  name.  The  words  on  the 
tablet  attached  to  the  monument  are  as  follows: 

JOHN   WINTHROP 

I606-I676 

FOUNDER  OF  NEW  LONDON 

MAY  6,  1646 

GOVERNOR   OF   CONNECTICUT 

1657;     1659-1676 


THE    CHARTER    OF    CONNECTICUT 

WAS    PROCURED   BY  HIM 

FROM   KING   CHARLES   II 

APRIL    23,    1662 


NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT  143 

TO    COMMEMORATE 

HIS    GREAT    SERVICES 

TO    THIS    COMMONWEALTH 

THE    STATE    OF   CONNECTICUT 

ERECTS    THIS    MONUMENT 

A.D.    1905 

Winthrop  Square,  where  the  statue  now  stands,  is  the  most  historic  spot  in  New 
London,  for  it  was  here  that  the  early  settlers  had  a  lookout  post  against  the  Indians; 
here  also  hung  the  first  town's  bell,  the  gift  of  John  Winthrop 's  son,  Gov.  Fitz-John 
Winthrop,  in  1698.  (The  towTi  voted  "to  ring  the  bell  every  night  at  nine  of  the 
clock  winter  and  summer,"  which  custom  of  ringing  the  curfew  is  still  in  existence 
and  has  covered  a  period  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-three  years,  with  the  change 
somewhere  in  the  centuries  from  nine  o'clock  to  eight  o'clock  on  Saturday  nights.) 
Here  also  was  the  site  of  the  three  successive  meeting-houses  where  Blinman, 
Bulkeley,  Bradstreet  and  Adams  preached;  and  here  in  1745,  the  troops  assembled 
under  Lieut.  Gov.  Wolcott  previous  to  their  sailing  on  the  Louisburg  Expedition. 

New  London  was  one  of  the  great  whaUng  ports  of  New  England  and  up  to 
i860  this  was  the  most  important  industry  of  the  town. 

The  bicentennial  celebration  of  the  First  Church  of  Christ  in  New  London  took 
place  in  1870,  this  year  being  chosen  for  the  reason  that  the  church  records  did  not 
begin  until  the  year  1670,  although  the  church  was  founded  some  time  before.  In 
"The  Early  History  of  the  First  Church  of  Christ,  New  London,  Connecticut" 
by  Rev.  S.  Leroy  Blake,  D.D.,  published  by  him  in  1897,  when  minister  of  the 
church,  it  is  authentically  shown  that  the  church  was  organized  in  Gloucester  in 
1642  and  emigrated  with  its  minister,  Rev.  Richard  Blinman,  from  Gloucester, 
Massachusetts,  in  165 1,  to  New  London,  with  about  fifty  of  its  members.  The 
present  Bhnman  Street  received  its  name  from  him.  During  the  two  hundred  and 
seventy-nine  years  of  its  existence  there  have  been  but  thirteen  ministers.  The 
organization  of  this  church  is  four  years  older  than  the  founding  of  the  town.  The 
First  Church  in  Hartford,  Connecticut,  emigrated  with  its  minister,  Rev.  Thomas 
Hooker  from  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  in  1636,  fifteen  years  previous  to  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  Blinman  and  his  flock  in  New  London. 

We  quote  a  few  verses  written  by  George  Parsons  Lathrop  on  the  two  hundred 
and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  New  London  on  May  6,  1896. 

"The  river  whispered  to  the  sea; 
'Bring  me  the  men  of  destiny. 
The  men  of  faith,  the  men  of  power, 
From  whom  shall  spring  a  nation's  flower!' 

Long,  long  the  waves  of  ocean  bore 
That  message  to  its  farther  shore; 
At  last  from  ancient  realms  there  came 
The  makers  of  the  New  World's  fame. 


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NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT  145 

Then  in  the  warring  Indian  land, 
Brave  Winthrop  and  his  gallant  band 
Hewed  clearings;  and  from  fallen  oak 
Rose  the  first  hearth-fire's  signal  smoke." 

New  London  will  observe  its  two  hundred  and  seventy-fifth  anniversary  on 
May  6th  of  this  year  (192 1). 

In  speaking  of  the  great  city  for  which  New  London  was  named  all  we  venture  to 
do  is  to  mention  briefly  the  memorials  and  places  there  of  interest  to  Americans,  hav- 
ing been  helped  greatly  in  compiling  the  list  by  Dr.  J.  F.  Muirh3ad  of  London.  First 
of  all  is  the  recently  dedicated  statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln  in  Parliament  Square,  a 
replica  of  the  St.  Gaudens  statue  in  Chicago,  of  which  we  have  included  an  illustration. 
Next  in  interest  is  the  fact  that  Benjamin  Franklin  spent  about  a  year  and  a  half  in 
London  between  December,  1724,  and  the  fall  of  1726,  working  as  a  printer,  first  with 
the  firm  of  Palmer,  established  in  what  had  been  the  Lady  Chapel  of  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's Church,  and  afterwards  with  Watts,  in  Wild  Court,  near  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields. 
His  first  lodging  was  in  Bartholomew  Close,  whence  he  removed  to  Duke  Street, 
where  he  had  a  room  at  the  modest  rental  of  1/6  a  week.  When  he  returned  to  London 
in  1757  in  the  more  dignified  position  of  Agent  to  the  General  Assembly  of  Pennsyl- 
vania, he  found  a  home  at  36  Craven  Street,  Strand,  which  he  occupied  for  several 
years;  there  he  wrote  various  humorous  papers  under  the  name  of  "The  Craven 
Street  Gazette."  The  only  reminder  of  George  Washington  in  London  is  a  copy  of 
Peale's  full-length  portrait  of  him  which  was  presented  to  the  Government  by  the  Earl 
of  Albemarle  in  1919  and  which  hangs  in  No.  10  Downing  Street,  the  residence  of  the 
Prime  Minister,  now  occupied  by  Mr.  Lloyd  George.  The  associations  of  John 
Harvard  and  Captain  John  Smith  with  the  city  of  London  were  mentioned  in  Part  I. 

The  visitor  to  London  will  find  a  monument  in  the  Charterhouse  to  Roger 
Williams,  founder  of  the  State  of  Rhode  Island;  also  he  may  wish  to  see  the  church 
of  Saint  Ethelburga  the  Virgin  in  Bishopsgate,  associated  with  Henry  Hudson,  who 
named  the  Hudson  River.  The  American  will  surely  visit  Westminster  Abbey,  where 
he  can  see  the  window  placed  there  in  memory  of  Rev.  Phillips  Brooks,  Bishop  of 
Massachusetts,  the  bust  of  Longfellow  by  Brock,  placed  there  by  his  English  ad- 
mirers, and  the  medallion  and  stained-glass  window  to  commemorate  James  Russell 
Lowell.  There  is  also  a  monument  in  Westminster,  beneath  the  Tower,  to  Viscount 
Howe,  erected  by  the  Province  of  Massachusetts,  while  still  a  British  colony.  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  who  capitulated  to  General  Gates  at  Saratoga,  is  buried  in  the 
North  Walk  of  the  Cloisters  of  the  Abbey. 

Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  spent  a  night  in  Carlyle's  House  at  25  Cheyne  Row, 
Chelsea,  while  visiting  the  city,  and  there  is  an  interesting  tablet  and  monument 
in  Southwark  Cathedral  to  William  Emerson,  a  supposed  ancestor.  Washington 
Irving  lodged  in  Bartholomew  Close  and  was  fond  of  exploring  the  nooks  and 
crannies  of  Canonbury  Tower. 


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NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT  '      147 

The  Chelsea  Public  Library  contains  a  bust  of  Henry  James  and  the  Chelsea 
Parish  Church  has  a  memorial  tablet  in  his  honour. 

In  front  of  the  Royal  Exchange  is  a  statue  of  George  Peabody  by  Story,  a  stone 
near  the  west  end  of  the  nave  of  Westminster  Abbey  marking  the  spot  where  the 
remains  of  this  American  philanthropist  lay  before  being  removed  to  Massachusetts. 
He  lived  in  Eaton  Square. 

William  Penn,  the  founder  of  Pennsylvania,  seems  to  have  lodged  in  Holland 
House  in  Charles  II's  reign,  having  lived  also  at  No.  21  Norfolk  St.,  Strand.  He 
spent  nine  months  in  Fleet  Prison  rather  than  pay  an  unjust  claim  and  was  also 
confined  in  Newgate.  Ke  was  born  on  the  East  Side  of  Tower  Hill  and  was  baptized 
in  All  Hallows,  Barking.  He  attended  Harsnett's  Free  School  at  Chigwell  and 
Hved  from  1672  to  1677  '^^  Basing  House,  High  Street,  Rickmansworth.  He  was 
buried  at  Jordans,  together  with  his  two  wives  and  five  of  his  children. 

The  Pilgrim  Fathers'  Memorial  Church  in  New  Kent  Road,  the  oldest  Congre- 
gational church  in  London  (16 16),  is  also  worthy  of  a  visit.  Another  place  of 
interest  is  the  Parish  Church,  Gravesend,  where  the  registers  in  the  vestry  contain 
the  record  of  the  burial  of  Pocahontas,  the  Indian  princess  who  saved  the  Hfe  of 
Captain  John  Smith  and  who  married  John  Rolfe.  Two  stained  glass  windows 
were  placed  there  in  19 14  to  her  memory  by  the  Society  of  Virginian  Dames,  there 
being  also  a  memorial  tablet  on  the  chancel  wall. 

Edgar  Allan  Poe,  of  Baltimore,  attended  the  school  kept  by  the  Misses  Dubourg 
at  146  Sloane  Street.  He  also  went  to  school  at  Stoke  Newington  from  181 7  to 
1819.  Benjamin  West  lived  for  forty-five  years  at  14  Newman  Street;  his  studio 
is  now  St.  Andrew's  Hall.  He  was  buried  in  the  "Painters'  Corner"  at  St.  Paul's. 
J.  M.  Whistler  died  at  74  Cheyne  Walk.  He  lived  first  at  No.  loi  from  1863  to 
1867  and  then  at  No.  96  for  twelve  years,  during  which  time  the  portraits  of  his 
mother  and  Carlyle  were  painted.  He  was  buried  in  the  burial  ground  of  St. 
Nicholas  Church,  Chiswick,  beneath  a  bronze  altar  tomb.  A  memorial  to  him  by 
Rodin  is  to  be  placed  in  the  gardens  on  the  Embankment  to  the  West  of  Albert 
Bridge. 

John  Quincy  Adams,  sixth  President  of  the  United  States,  was  married  to  Louisa 
Johnson  in  1797  in  All  Hallows,  Barking.  Another  marriage  of  interest  to  all  the 
English-speaking  peoples  is  that  of  Theodore  Roosevelt  to  Edith  Kermit  Carew, 
which  took  place  at  St.  George's,  Hanover  Square,  in  1886.  Charles  Chauncey, 
vicar  of  Ware,  who  became  President  of  Harvard  College  in  1654,  is  commemorated 
by  a  tablet  in  Ware  Church,  twenty-two  miles  from  London. 

The  recent  death  of  Francis  Hodson  recalls  to  the  minds  of  many  Americans 
and  Britons  alike  the  devoted  services  of  this  Englishman,  who  had  been  acting  as 
chief  clerk  in  the  American  Embassy  during  the  past  thirty-five  years.  He  was 
an  international  figure  and  it  was  said  of  him  that  he  was  "never  in  the  way  and 
never  out  of  the  way."     His  father,  Charles  Hodson,  who  died  in  1906,  occupied 


148  NEW  LONDON,  CONNECTICUT 

the  same  position  for  thirty  years,  during  which  time  he  served  under  eight  American 
Ambassadors.  Francis  Hodson's  brother,  Edward,  is  to  occupy  this  position  now 
and  will  doubtless  fill  the  post  as  his  father  and  brother  have  done  before  him, 
with  ability,  modesty  and  tact. 


OXFORD,  MASSACHUSETTS 

WHILE  Oxford,  England,  is  universally  known  as  one  of  the  world's 
greatest  seats  of  learning,  it  may  be  a  surprise  to  many  to  read  that 
there  has  been  an  Oxford  in  Massachusetts  since  1683  when  the  settle- 
ment of  Nipmuck  was  named  for  the  famous  English  city.  The  first  movement 
toward  a  settlement  in  the  region  now  called  Oxford  was  the  petition  of  Hugh 
Campbell,  a  merchant  of  Boston,  February,  1680,  for  land  for  a  colony  of  Scotch 
emigrants.  The  petition  was  granted,  but  no  effort  seems  to  have  been  made  to 
take  advantage  of  it.  Shortly  after  this,  two  prominent  men  of  Boston,  WilHam 
Stoughton  and  Joseph  Dudley,  were  empowered  to  purchase  this  land  in  the  Nip- 
muck  country  and  reported  that  with  the  Hassanamesit  and  Natick  Indians  they 
had  agreed  for  all  their  land 

"lying  fewer  miles  northward  of  the  present  Springfield  road,  &  southward  to  that,  haue 
agreed  betweene  Blacke  James  &  them,  of  which  wee  aduised  in  our  late  returne,  wee 
haue  purchased  at  thirty  pounds  money  &  a  coate. 

The  southern  halfe  of  said  countrey  wee  haue  purchased  of  Blacke  James  &  company, 
for  twenty  pounds." 

It  was  undoubtedly  at  this  time  that  the  town  received  its  present  name.  It  was 
through  an  associate  of  these  two  men,  Robert  Thompson,  merchant  of  London, 
England,  that  the  Huguenots  were  induced  to  settle  in  this  territory.  He  got  into 
communication  with  Gabriel  Bemon,  who,  though  he  never  settled  in  Oxford, 
nevertheless  was  most  active  in  making  arrangements  for  the  settlement  of  the 
Huguenots  here.  As  a  result,  from  La  Rochelle,  France,  came  a  letter,  dated 
October  i,  1684,  from  a  representative  of  the  French  Protestants  there,  who,  like 
the  Pilgrim  Fathers  before  them,  looked  to  America  as  a  place  of  refuge  from  re- 
ligious persecution  at  the  time  of  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes.  The  note 
in  part  was  as  follows : — 

"New  England,  the  country  where  you  live,  is  in  great  esteem;  I  and  a  great  many 
others,  Protestants,  intend  to  go  there.  Tell  us,  if  you  please,  what  advantages  we  can 
have,  and  particularly  the  peasants  who  are  used  to  the  plough.  If  somebody  of  your 
country  would  send  a  ship  here  to  bring  over  French  Protestants,  he  would  make  great 
gain." 

To  this  plantation,  then,  which  had  been  named  for  the  English  city  where  is  the 
famous  University  at  which  many  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  had  received  their  col- 
legiate education,  fled  bands  of  the  persecuted  Huguenots — chiefly  from  La  Rochelle 


OXFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


149 


and  its  vicinity.  They  endured 
great  hardships  to  reach  America 
and  many  died  on  the  voyage, 
bat  the  sturdy  Httle  band  that 
remained  arrived  in  Boston  during 
the  winter  of  1686  and  were  hos- 
pitably received  and  cared  for  at 
Fort  Hill,  where  they  were  fed  and 
clothed,  the  scattered  churches  of 
the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony 
taking  up  contributions  to  meet 
the  needs  of  the  exiles.  When 
spring  came  they  took  possession 
of  Oxford,  retaining  its  English 
name,  as  they  liked  it  so  well. 

Many  famous  names  in  the 
history  of  America  appear  among 
this  first  list  of  settlers,  including 
Pierre  Beaudoin,  one  of  whose 
descendants,  James  Bowdoin,  be- 
came Governor  of  Massachusetts, 
and  Benjamin  Faneuil,  an  ances- 
tor of  Peter  Faneuil,  benefactor  of 
Boston  and  donor  of  Faneuil  Hall. 
Andre  Sigournais  was  another 
prominent  member  of  the  original 
Huguenot  community  and  his 
descendants,  the  Sigourneys,  are 
well  known  in  Boston  and  other 
parts  of  New  England.  Andrew 
Wolcott  Sigourney,  seventh  in 
descent,  still  owns  the  old  family 
homestead  in  Oxford.  In  1884, 
Miss  Myrtis  S.  Sigourney  (now 
Mrs.  William  Bacon  Scofield) 
unveiled  a  splendid  monument 
on  Fort  Hill  erected  by  the 
Huguenot  Memorial  Society  to 
perpetuate  the  memory  of  the  Huguenots  who  made  the  first  settlement  at 
Oxford.  At  the  period  made  famous  by  Longfellow  in  his  "Evangeline"  several 
other  French  families  also  settled  here.     This  town  was  the  home  of  Clara  Barton, 


Photographed  by  E.  B.  Luce 

HUGUENOT  MONUMENT,  OXFORD,  MASSA- 
CHUSETTS, 

erected  in  1884  by  the  Huguenot  Memorial  Society  and 
unveiled  by  a  descendant  of  Andre  Sigournais,  one  of  the 
most  prominent  of  the  founders  of  the  town.  Although 
the  early  settlers  were  French,  they  retained  the  name 
given  to  this  territory  by  the  English  owners. 


OXFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS  151 

the  famous  Civil  War  nurse  and  organizer  of  our  Red  Cross,  and  here  also  Richard 
Okiey,  Secretary  of  State  under  President  Cleveland,  was  born.  Olney,  by  the 
way,  was  the  last  President  of  the  Huguenot  Memorial  Society,  no  successor  having 
been  chosen  since  his  death. 

Judge  Sewall,  that  renowned  "Pepys  of  New  England,"  undoubtedly  named  the 
town  and  he  did  so  because  he  remembered  his  rides  over  the  familiar  ground  in 
England.  He  also  changed  the  name  of  the  neighboring  town  of  New  Roxbury  to 
Woodstock,  his  reason  for  doing  so  being  that  there  is  a  town  of  that  name  near 
Oxford,  England. 

It  is  interesting  to  know  that  the  name  of  Oxford  was  originally  given  by  Prince 
Charles  of  England,  later  King  Charles  I,  to  the  territory  now  known  as  Marshfield, 
Massachusetts,  when  he  marked  Captain  John  Smith's  map  of  the  New  England 
coast  made  in  16 14. 

There  is  also  an  Oxford  in  Maine  and  one  in  Connecticut. 

The  city  of  Oxford,  on  that  part  of  the  Thames  locally  called  the  Isis,  ranks 
among  the  most  ancient  corporations  in  England  and  its  privileges  are  similar  to 
those  of  the  city  of  London.  At  the  coronations  of  sovereigns  the  Mayor  acted  as 
Butler,  next  to  the  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  and  received  three  mazers,  or  cups 
made  of  maple  wood,  as  his  fee  until  the  last  feast  given  by  George  IV  in  182 1. 
Since  then  no  banquet  has  been  given,  and  while  the  Mayor  of  Oxford  retains  his 
right  he  has  no  opportunity  to  use  it,  and,  therefore,  has  no  mazers  to  bring  home. 

In  912  the  Anglo-Saxon  Chronicle  records: — 

' '  This  year  died  Eathered  Ealdorman  of  the  Mercians,  and  King  Edward  took  posses- 
sion of  London  and  Oxford,  and  of  all  lands  which  owed  obedience  thereto." 

Its  legendary  history,  however,  goes  back  nearly  two  centuries  earlier  and  starts 
with  the  tale  of  the  holy  Frideswide  who  founded  a  nunnery  there.  She  is  the 
patron  saint  of  Oxford  and  one  of  the  three  crowned  figures  in  the  arms  of  Oxford 
diocese  is  supposed  to  represent  this  saintly  personage.  Churches  and  castles  later 
sprang  up,  and  the  country  became  famous  for  its  sport,  and  many  of  the  Norman 
kings  resorted  to  the  forests  which  abounded  in  deer.  Historians  differ  as  to  the 
origin  of  Oxford  University,  though  it  is  generally  acknowledged  that  the  movement 
gained  impetus  from  the  intellectual  activity  that  was  so  apparent  in  Paris  at  the 
close  of  the  eleventh  century,  at  the  time  that  the  head  of  the  cathedral  school 
there  was  William  Champeaux.  From  migrations  across  the  channel  this  college 
town  of  Oxford,  which  at  that  time  was  neither  a  cathedral  nor  a  capital  town, 
became  reinforced  by  the  flood  of  students  that  had  been  turned  out  of  France, 
so  that  by  the  beginning  of  the  thirteenth  century  Oxford  ranked  with  the  most 
important  universities  of  Europe. 

There  are  many  historic  landmarks  in  this  English  city,  the  chief  of  which, 
however,  the  famous  Osney  Abbey,  has  been  totally  destroyed.     "Great  Tom,"  a 


152  OXFORD,   MASSACHUSETTS 

bell  weighing  eighteen  thousand  pounds,  a  relic  of  this  Abbey,  is  preserved  in  the 
"Oxford  Tom  Tower."  Every  night  at  five  minutes  past  nine  "Tom"  tolls  a 
curfew  of  one  hundred  and  one  strokes  as  a  signal  of  the  closing  of  the  college  gates. 
This  tower  was  built  in  1682  by  the  famous  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  Tom's  time, 
through  an  old  custom,  is  always  five  minutes  later  than  Greenwich  time,  thereby 
giving  tardy  ones  a  leeway  of  five  minutes  in  attending  chapel,  lectures  and  roll-calls. 

The  most  interesting  building  among  the  many  in  this  classical  center  is  perhaps 
the  famous  Bodleian  Library,  the  most  ancient  part  of  which  was  built  between 
1450  and  1480  to  house  the  books  which  had  been  given  to  the  University  by 
Humphry,  Duke  of  Gloucester.  It  contains  over  a  million  bound  volumes  and 
about  forty  thousand  volumes  of  manuscripts.  By  a  copyright  act  it  enjoys  the 
right  to  a  copy  of  every  book  published  in  Great  Britain. 

Among  the  men  who  were  natives  of  Oxford  and  who  won  distinction  along 
various  lines  were  Edmund  Ironside,  Richard  Cceur-de-Lion,  and  King  John. 
Cecil  Rhodes,  one  of  the  most  prominent  of  the  famous  graduates  of  the  Univer- 
sity, is  known  to  the  present  generation  through  his  endowment  of  the  Rhodes 
Scholarships  which  enable  American  undergraduates  to  obtain  the  advantages  of 
an  Oxford  education  at  the  expense  of  the  endowment  fund. 


READING,  MASSACHUSETTS 

READING,  Massachusetts,  set  off  from  Lynn  in  1644  as  "Redding,"  was 
named  for  Reading,  England,  by  some  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  town  who 
.  probably  came  from  the  English  borough  on  the  upper  Thames,  or  from 
that  vicinity,  having  first  lived  in  Lynn  on  their  arrival  in  this  country.  John 
Poole,  one  of  the  leaders,  was  perhaps  responsible  for  the  naming  of  the  Mas- 
sachusetts town.  Among  the  early  settlers  were  Nicholas  Brown,  William  Cow- 
drey,  Thomas  Parker,  Thomas  Marshall,  John  Pearson,  John  Damon,  Jonas 
Eaton,  Richard  Walker,  John  Wiley  and  Thomas  Kendall.  Among  later,  but 
still  early,  comers  whose  names  have  been  prominent  in  the  town's  history  were 
the  Bancroft,  Temple,  Upton,  Nichols  and  Wakefield  families.  Some  years  ago 
Hon.  Owen  Ridley,  former  Mayor  of  the  English  Reading,  became  much  inter- 
ested in  the  history  of  the  Massachusetts  town,  made  a  visit  here  and  was  enter- 
tained by  the  late  Chester  W.  Eaton,  Esq.,  of  Wakefield.  Later  Mr.  Eaton  and 
his  daughter.  Miss  Emma  Florence  Eaton,  who  is  connected  with  the  Wakefield 
Historical  Society  (Wakefield  having  once  been  a  part  of  Reading),  visited  the 
English  Reading  and  Mr.  Eaton  published  an  interesting  account  of  his  visit  in 
the  "Memorial  Volume  of  Ancient  Reading"  issued  on  the  occasion  of  the  two 
hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  Massachusetts  town  in  1894.  At  the  time 
of  this  celebration  Mr.  Philip  H.  Turner,  of  Reading,  England,  carried  on  a  corre- 


READING,   MASSACHUSETTS 


153 


From  an  old  print  owned  by  Allan  Forbes  Formerly  in  the  collection  of  J.  H.  Seers,  Essex,  England 

READING  ABBEY,  READING,  ENGLAND 

spondence  with  the  Wakefield  Historical  Society,  and  when  the  Eaton  family  made 
this  visit  to  the  old  town  in  England  he  gave  them  a  most  cordial  reception.  Mr. 
Eaton  in  his  interesting  account  spoke  particularly  of  the  attractive  ruins  of  Read- 
ing Abbey,  which  was  at  one  time  one  of  the  most  lordly  of  the  ecclesiastical  es- 
tabhshments  in  England,  and  which  is  so  well  described  by  Miss  Eaton  in  the  fol- 
lowing Hnes  of  poetry  written  on  the  occasion  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anni- 
versary referred  to  above: — 

' '  Now  all  has  passed  away 
Save  these  few  stones,  near  which  the  Thames  doth  stately  glide. 
Gone  are  thy  black-robed  monks  with  cowled  heads,  gone  is  thy  day 
Of  grandeur.     Yet  still  the  truths  thou  stoodest  for  must  abide. 
To  make  us  stronger,  nobler;  and  so  I  feel,  at  last. 
That  a  precious  blessing  Ungers  in  these  ruins  of  the  past." 

Mr.  Eaton  also  wrote  of  the  historic  churches  of  the  old  town,  including  St. 
Giles's,  a  picture  of  which  we  have  reproduced  on  the  next  page.  Mr.  Eaton  ex- 
plains that  Reading,  England,  dates  back  to  the  year  868,  although  some  historians 
declare  that  the  town  formed  a  part  of  the  Kingdom  of  Wessex,  under  the  Saxons, 
towards  the  end  of  the  fifth  century.  The  name  Reading  is  spelled  in  a  hundred 
different  ways  in  the  ancient  English  records  and,  like  that  of  many  English  places, 
is  probably  derived  from  a  Saxon  clan  name  signifying  the  home  of  the  sons  of 


154 


READING.   MASSACHUSETTS 


"Raed,"  the  head  of  the  clan. 
Men  called  Raed,  precursors  of 
the  modern  Reeds  and  Reids,  took 
their  name  from  their  complexion 
— the  Reds,  like  the  Whites,  the 
Browns,  etc.  To  us,  of  course,  the 
name  has  lost  any  significance  of 
this  sort  and  remains  simply  a 
link  connecting  us  with  that 
seventeenth-century  England  out 
of  which  the  fathers  came.  There 
was  fought  in  1163  a  duel  that 
has  come  down  to  us  in  history 
between  Henry  d' Essex  and 
Robert  de  Montford,  which  took 
place  in  the  presence  of  King 
Henry  II.  To  that  town  once 
came  John  Bunyan,  who  preached 
the  gospel,  and  there  also  is  shown 
to  the  American  visitor  the  hall 
where  William  Penn  used  to  wor- 
ship. While  there  Mr.  Eaton 
made  a  careful  examination  of  the 
copy  of  the  register  of  St.  Mary's  Church  during  the  sixteenth  and  seven- 
teenth centuries  and  found  a  number  of  names  that  were  equally  well  known 
in  our  Reading,  such  as  Poole,  Cowdrey,  Parker,  Bachellor,  Brown,  Swain, 
Townsend,  Hawkes,  Taylor,  Foster,  Walker,  Marshall,  Eaton,  Davis,  Goodwin 
and  Pearson,  many  of  whom  comprised  the  early  settlers  of  Reading  in  New 
England.  The  famous  Huntley  and  Palmer  biscuit  factory  is  situated  in  Reading, 
England. 

The  freedom  of  the  borough  was  conferred  in  1920  on  Lord  Reading,  who  had 
represented  this  locality  in  Parliament  for  over  nine  years,  and  who  recently  has 
been  the  British  Ambassador  to  the  United  States.  The  Am.erican  Ambassador, 
Mr.  Davis,  was  present  at  the  ceremony,  during  which  he  said,  "No  official  repre- 
sentative of  Great  Britain  has  more  truly  interpreted  the  English  people  to  the  Amer- 
ican people,  or  more  thoroughly  won  the  admiration  and  affection  of  the  American 
people  than  Lord  Reading."  Our  Ambassador,  referring  to  the  recent  visit  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales  to  America,  said  he  verily  believed  that  in  the  recent  history  of 
the  two  countries  no  visit  of  greater  promise,  and  certainly  none  of  greater  value, 
had  occurred  than  that  of  the  Prince  to  the  United  States,  where  he  had  been 
greeted  with  overwhelming  enthusiasm. 


Photographed  JTOm  an  old  print  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq 

ST.  GILES'S   CHURCH,  READING,  ENGLAND 


READING,   MASSACHUSETTS  155 

The  settlement  of  our  Reading  was  made  in  1639  under  a  grant  ot  land  from 
the  General  Court  to  the  town  of  Lynn,  being  called  Linn  Village.  The  name  was 
changed  to  Redding  in  1644  and  the  modern  form  "Reading"  appeared  in  1647. 
Territory  north  of  the  Ipswich  River,  extending  to  the  southern  border  of  Andover, 
was  added  by  a  special  grant  in  165 1.  South  Reading,  the  original  first  parish  of 
old  Reading,  where  the  first  settlement  was  made,  was  set  off  as  an  independent 
town  in  181 2.  North  Reading,  beyond  the  Ipswich,  the  original  second  parish, 
was  incorporated  as  a  town  in  1853.  The  present  Reading  retains  the  ancient 
name  and  records.  The  early  Reading,  therefore,  has  become  in  our  day  three 
separate  towns.  The  name  of  South  Reading  was  changed  to  Wakefield  in  1868, 
in  honour  of  Cyrus  Wakefield,  a  leading  citizen  identified  with  the  industrial  devel- 
opment of  the  town,  and  was  not  derived  from  Wakefield,  England. 

There  is  also  a  Reading  in  Vermont. 


ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS 

"What  mean  these  mad  men,  soon  sayes  one, 
Witlesse  to  run  away 
From  English  beere  to  water,  where 
No  boon  companions  stay." 

CONSIDERABLE  correspondence  has  been  carried  on  between  Rev.  L.  D. 
Hildyard,  Rector  of  Rowley  Church,  Rowley,  England,  and  the  town  of 
Rowley,  Massachusetts,  and  we  believe  his  letters,  which  we  quote  below, 
will  give  an  excellent  idea  of  the  small  but  attractive  EngHsh  parish  and  will  also 
show  the  love  and  interest  Englishmen  have  for  their  offspring  on  this  side  of  the 

water: — 

"England,  Rowley,  Little  Wetghton,  Hull 
April  17,  191 2 

Dear  Sir: — 

In  answer  to  your  letter  I  am  sending  some  photographs  of  Rowley  Church  and  Rectory, 
and  Little  Weighton  Village.  There  is  nothing  at  Rowley  except  the  Church,  Rectory, 
and  farm  and  park.  Little  Weighton  adjoins  and  you  will  find  the  pictures  of  it  enclosed. 
Here  and  at  Rowley  no  doubt  resided  the  people  who  accompanied  Ezekiel  Rogers  to 
America.  I  have  also  enclosed  a  photo  of  myself  which  is  of  no  interest  except  that  it 
happens  that  the  Hildyards  have  held  the  'Living  of  Rowley'  since  1704  and  Ezekiel 
Rogers  only  left  in  1638.  I  beHeve  the  church  is  Uttle  altered  since  that  date.  It  is 
supposed  that  Rogers  took  the  Registers  to  America  but  I  occasionally  find  a  name  later 
on  of  one  or  more  of  those  who  accompanied  him.  I  have  some  small  photos  recently 
sent  by  a  friend  travelHng  in  America  of  several  buildings  in  Rowley  (Mass.)  but  what  I 
really  want  is  a  big  picture  of  the  town  like  a  small  one  I  have  of  '  Rowley  from  Prospect 
Hill.'  You  would  know  which  you  considered  best  and  I  should  be  quite  satisfied  with 
one  good  one  in  return  for  those  I  send  as  you  have  kindly  suggested  the  question  of  ex- 
change. I  want,  if  you  are  pleased  to  send  it  to  me,  to  exhibit  it  in  the  village  and  perhaps 
to  put  it  into  one  of  the  papers  here. 


156 


ROWLEY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


From  I  io  Rn''l,-\,    i-  ^,  uy  Rev.  L.  D.  Ihldy  ad  of  Ro'.oUy,  Engl  nid  Kindne      .1"       i    tr,tL  Jt  leit,  L\q. 

ROWLEY   CHURCH,  ROWLEY,  ENGLAND, 
in  which  Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers  preached  for  seventeen  years  before  emigrating  to  Rowley,  Massachusetts. 


ica). 


With  all  good  wishes  from  me  and  the  people  of  Rowley  (England)  to  Rowley  (Amer- 


Believe  me, 


Yours  sincerely. 


L.    D.    HiLDYARD." 


"Nov.  9,  1914. 
Dear  Mr.  Crowdis: — 

I  read  your  kind  message  from  the  pulpit  on  Sunday  to  the  Rowley  (England)  con- 
gregation and  I  have  reason  to  know  how  deeply  touched  they  were  by  it.  It  is  indeed 
gratifying  to  us  to  think  that  although  we  are  separated  by  so  many  miles  of  ocean,  and 
though  we  are  all  unknown  to  one  another,  yet  you  still  have  a  corner  in  your  hearts  for 
the  dear  old  place  from  which  Rowley  in  America  took  its  name. 

We  have  not  progressed  as  you  have.  The  Church  in  which  Ezekiel  Rogers  ministered 
is  still  standing  and  the  village  and  hamlets  remain  very  much  the  same,  I  should  imagine, 
as  in  the  days  of  long  ago.  But  we  often  think  of  those  faithful  ones,  who  in  the  time  of 
Charles  First  wer3  so  beset  that  they  determined  to  leave  their  all  to  maintain  their  re- 
ligious convictions. 

I  have  often  regretted  that  there  is  no  memorial  of  any  kind  here  to  Ezekiel  Rogers. 
Before  this  terrible  war  began,  we  had  an  idea  of  erecting  a  window  in  the  church,  by 
which  his  name  and  work  might  be  'had  in  remembrance.'  But  alas!  the  war  has  put  it 
out  of  the  question.  All  we  can  spare  now  goes  to  the  various  Relief  Funds,  and  we  have 
reluctantly  had  to  abandon  the  idea. 


ROWLEY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


157 


It  occurred  to  me  when  we 
were  discussing  the  matter  some 
time  ago,  how  nice  it  would  be  if 
Rowley  in  America  were  to  take 
an  interest  in  the  matter  and  pos- 
sibly to  help  us  in  some  way.  I 
know  you  will  pardon  me  for  making 
the  suggestion  for  I  dare  say,  like  us, 
you  are  a  'poor  community.'  But 
it  has  been  in  my  mind  for  some  time 
to  approach  you  on  the  subject. 
Sometimes  I  have  thought  my  dream 
would  come  true,  and  I  have  pictured 
a  great  dedication  service  at  Rowley 
conducted  by  the  Archbishop  of 
York  in  the  presence  of  representa- 
tives from  Rowley  in  America — 
what  a  wonderful  reunion  it  would 
be  after  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  years.  As  I  say,  it  is  only  a 
dream,  for  the  cost  of  such  a  memo- 
rial would  be  £150. 

Now  you  must  forgive  me  for 
digressing  in  this  manner  from  the 
consideration  of  your  letter.  You 
ask  me  for  a  word  of  sympathy  and 
greeting  from  Rowley.  Will  you 
please  tell  your  good  people  that  we 
think  of  them  here,  and  pray  that 
God  may  bless  them  and  him  who 
ministers  to  them? 
Believe  me, 

Yours  very  sincerely, 

L.  D.  HiLDYARD,  Rector." 

A  monument  has  been  erected 
in  Rowley  Cemetery  to  the 
memory  of  Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers, 
who  was  the  founder  and  first 
minister  of  our  Rowley.  He  with 
his  company  of  about  twenty 
families  came  in  the  ship  "John" 
of  London,  sailing  from  Hull 
and  landing  at  Boston,  New  Eng- 
land, December  2,  1638.  The 
inscription  on  this  monument  is 
so  interesting  that  we  are  repeat- 
ing it  here : — 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Amos  Everett  Jeivett,  Esq 

OLD      CEMETERY      IN 


MONUMENT     IN     THE 

ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

in  memory  of  Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers,  a  founder  and  first 
minister  of  the  town,  who  had  been  minister  in  Rowley, 
England,  for  many  years.  Our  town  was  so  nam.ed  in  his 
honour.  He  was  a  cousin  of  Rev.  John  Rogers,  who  came 
to  Dedham,  Massachusetts.  Rowley,  England,  has  for 
some  time  been  considering  the  placing  of  a  memorial  to 
him  there.  This  monument  bears  a  most  interesting  in- 
scription, which  is  given  in  the  text. 


158  ROWLEY,   MASSACHUSETTS 

Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers, 

first  minister  of  Rowley, 

Born  at  Wethersfield,  Essex  Co. 

England,  a.d.  1590,  a  minister 

in  Rowley  Yorkshire  17  years. 

Came  to  this  place  with  his 

Church  and  flock  in  April 

1639,  died  June  23,  1660. 

This  ancient  pilgrim  nobly  bore 

The  ark  of  God,  to  this  lone  shore; 

And  here,  before  the  throne  of  Heaven 

The  hand  was  raised,  the  pledge  was  given, 

One  monarch  to  obey,  one  creed  to  own. 

That  monarch,  God;   that  creed.  His  word  alone. 

Here  also  rest 
the  remains  of  his  wives. 

With  him  one  came  with  girded  heart, 
Through  good  and  ill  to  claim  her  part; 
In  Hfe,  in  death,  with  him  to  seal 
Her  kindred  love,  her  kindred  zeal. 

We  are  told  that  his  sparkling  wit,  judgment  and  learning  delighted  his  father  so 
much  that  at  the  age  of  thirteen  he  was  sent  to  Cambridge.  Rogers  had  lived  in 
Rowley,  England,  where  he  served  as  minister  for  seventeen  years,  his  piety,  wis- 
dom and  eloquence  causing  people  to  flock  to  hear  him  from  all  the  adjacent  regions. 
Once,  we  are  told,  he  preached  in  the  stately  Minster  of  York  on  a  public  occasion 
"which  he  served  and  suited  notably."  Rogers  and  his  company  wintered  in 
Salem,  Ipswich  and  Boston  whence  they  began  to  look  about  for  a  permanent 
home,  in  the  meanwhile  attending  services  in  Mr.  Wilson's  First  Church  in  Boston. 
New  Haven  had  made  the  colonists  tempting  offers,  but  they  finally  selected  a 
place  on  the  shore  between  Newbury  and  Ipswich  where  they,  with  about  forty 
other  families  who  had  joined  them,  settled  in  1639.  The  General  Court  ordered 
that  the  following  vote  be  recorded  in  the  State  records  and  the  words  used 
appear  on  the  present  seal  of  the  town: — 

"The  4th  day  of  the  7th  month,  1639.     Mr.  Ezechi  Rogers'  plantation  shalbee  called 
Rowley." 

The  pleasant  brook  which  flows  through  the  center  of  the  town  is  said  to  have 
influenced  them  in  choosing  this  site  and  they  were  probably  also  influenced  by 
the  accessibility  to  the  "lectures"  on  either  side  of  them  in  Ipswich  and  Newbury. 
Ezekiel's  father  was  Rev.  Richard  Rogers  and  the  following  quaint  Knes  con- 
cerning him  have  survived: — 

' '  How  shall  we  passe  to  Canaan  now 
The  wilderness  is  wide 
Soe  full  of  Tygers  Beares  and  wolves 
And  many  a  beast  besyde 


ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


159 


He  spared  no  labour  of  mynde 

Noe  bodilie  griefe  nor  payne 

That  tended  to  his  people's  good 

And  to  his  master's  gayne 

When  strength  of  leggs  and  feet  did  fayle 

On  horseback  he  did  ride." 

Rev.  Ezekiel  Rogers  was  a  cousin  of  Rev.  John  Rogers  of  Dedham,  England,  and 
Dedham,  Massachusetts,  a  devoted  and  popular  Puritan  preacher,  whose  *' lect- 
ures" were  famous;  while  his  brother  Daniel  was  also  a  famous  Puritan  preacher. 
His  family,  therefore,  was  distinguished  for  its  clerical  services  to  the  Puritan  cause. 
In  1643,  Mr.  Rogers  had  the  honour  of  preaching  the  election  sermon, — "and 
the  ability  he  showed  on  this  occasion,"  said  Cotton  Mather,  "made  him  famous 
through  the  whole  coimtry."  He  married  for  his  second  wife  the  daughter  of 
Rev.  John  Wilson  and  for  his  third  wife  the  widow  Barker,  who,  as  has  been  ex- 
pressed, "was  in  years  agreeable  to  him."  On  the  very  night  of  his  marriage,  his 
house  was  burned  to  the  ground  with  all  his  goods,  probably  all  the  church  records 
and  the  library  which  he  brought  from  England  containing  valuable  books  given 
to  him  by  his  father.  The  stout- 
hearted pastor,  however,  rebuilt 
his  home  and  restocked  his 
Kbrary.  Again  misfortune  befell 
him,  for  he  was  thrown  from  his 
horse  and  his  right  arm  was 
broken,  causing  it  to  be  paralyzed 
for  the  rest  of  his  life.  Still 
undaunted,  he  learned  to  write 
with  his  left  hand  and  continued 
active  until  his  death  which 
occurred  in  1660,  Old  Style,  (1661 
New  Style).  He  continually 
preached  against  all  evil  fashions 
and  guises  of  his  age,  both  in 
apparel  and  "that  general  dis- 
guisement  of  long  ruffian-like 
hair,"  as  he  expressed  it.  On 
his  death  he  remembered  his 
friends  throughout  the  Colony 
and  even  in  England  and  Hol- 
land. President  Quincy  com- 
memorates him  as  one  of  the 
earliest  benefactors  of  Harvard 
College.     Part  of  his  real  estate 


From  a  photograph  Kindnerf  Amor  Everett  Je'retl.  t^q. 

COMMUNION    CUPS    GIVEN    BY    REV.    EZEKIEL 

ROGERS  AND  OTHERS  IN  ROWLEY  CHURCH, 

ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS 

Those   given  by  Rev.  Mr.  Rogers  were  brought  by  him 
from  England  and  given  to  the  church  in  his  will. 


i6o 


ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  Amos  Everett  Jezveit,  Esq. 

TABLET  IN   ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

erected  by  the  Jewett  Family  of  America  in  191 2,  in 
memory  of  Maximilian  and  Joseph  Jewett,  of  Bradford, 
England,  who  came  over  in  the  ship  "John"  with  Rev. 
Ezekiel  Rogers,  founder  and  first  minister  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts Rowley. 


was  bequeathed  to  support  the 
ministries  in  our  Rowley  and 
also  in  Byfield  and  Georgetown 
nearby.  The  last  item  of  his 
will  reads:  "also  to  the  church 
my  silver  bowls,  which  they 
used  for  the  communion,  to  be 
so  used  still."  These  same 
bowls  are  still  used  at  the  first 
communion  service  each  year, 
although  they  have  been  re- 
hammered  and  their  shapes,  there- 
fore, somewhat  changed.  Rogers 
was  succeeded  by  Rev.  Samuel 
Phillips,  who  came  from  the 
English  town  of  B oxford.  Almost 
directly  across  the  drive  from  the 
Rogers  monument  in  the  cemetery 
is  a  memorial  tablet,  shown  in 
one  of  the  illustrations,  erected 
by  the  Jewett  family  of  America  to  the  first  two  ancestors  of  this  name  who  were 
buried  in  this  cemetery.  There  are  also  stones  placed  here  to  the  memory  of  two 
other  early  settlers  in  this  New  England  town,  John  Trumble  first  of  Roxbury,  New 
England,  and  William  Stickney,  who  came  from  Frampton,  England,  to  Boston  in 
1638,  thence  to  Rowley. 

One  of  the  interesting  pieces  of  history  connected  with  Rowley  is  the  fact  that 
the  little  town  was  able  to  supply  cloth  sufficient  for  the  needs  of  the  Colony,  when 
the  supply  that  had  been  brought  over  by  the  colonists  from  England  had  failed 
them.  Johnson  in  his  "  Wonderworking  Providence "  speaks  of  this  incident  in 
these  words: — 

"These  people  being  very  industrious  .  .  .  were  the  first  people  that  set  upon 
making  of  cloth  in  this  western  world,  for  which  end  they  built  a  fulling-mill  and 
caused  their  little  ones  to  be  very  diligent  in  spinning  cotton  wool,  many  of  them  having 
been  clothiers  in  England." 

Governor  Winthrop  also  records  that  in  this  manufacture  "Rowley  to  their  great 
commendation  exceeded  all  other  towns."  The  name  of  the  pioneer  in  the  manu- 
facture of  cloth  was  John  Pearson  who  shipped  his  cotton  from  Barbados,  his 
mill  continuing  to  be  the  property  of  his  family  for  the  next  six  generations.  A 
cedar  post  that  was  brought  from  England  and  put  into  that  first  mill  was  still 
standing  and  in  good  condition  at  the  beginning  of  this  century;  it  was  then  cut 
up  into  rulers,  which  were  deposited  in  museums  and  various  other  places. 


ROWLEY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


i6i 


From  a  photograph  sent  to  Rowley,  Massachusetts,  by  Rev.  L.  D.  Hildyard,  of  Rowley,  England 

ROWLEY,  YORKSHIRE,  ENGLAND 


Kindness  Amos  Everett  Jewett,  Esq. 


Rowley,  England,  in  the  East  Riding  of  Yorkshire,  is  about  seven  miles  from 
Beverley  and  is  a  small  parish,  for  we  learn  that  it  consists  chiefly  of  a  church  and 
a  school.  A  visitor  on  aHghting  at  Little  Weighton  and  inquiring  for  the  town, 
received  the  reply  to  go  ''right  awah  to  your  right  tUl  you  come  to  a  gate."  An- 
other traveler  to  the  other  side  describes  a  visit  to  the  old  parish,  where  he  met 
Rev.  H.  C.  T.  Hildyard,  who  hastened  downstairs  to  put  into  the  visitor's  hands  the 
ancient  records  and  keys  of  St.  Peter's  Church,  which  dates  back  to  the  thirteenth 
century  and  contains  a  font  that  is  a  century  older.  A  visitor  gives  in  the  New 
England  Magazine  this  description  of  the  church : — 

"A  tiny  side  chapel  contains  a  tablet  to  Sir  Ralph  Elleker  and  his  three  sons,  Ralph, 
William  and  Robert,  all  four  of  whom  were  knighted  on  Flodden  Field  in  1513  for  their 
gallantry  in  that  battle.  But  my  mind  was  full  of  another  hero.  I  thought  how  this 
little  church  was  once  thronged  to  hear  the  true,  brave  words  of  Ezekiel  Rogers,  how  dear 
its  ancient  memories  must  have  been  to  one  of  his  cultivated  taste,  and  how  he  sacrificed 
all,  including  a  very  comfortable  salary,  rather  than  do  violence  to  his  conscience.  The 
left  part  of  the  rectory,  as  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustration,  was  that  of  Ezekiel 
Rogers.  The  good  rector  himself  is  shown  in  another  picture,  beneath  a  venerable  larch 
that  probably  had  shaded  Mr.  Rogers.  The  Rowley  living  is  now  a  family  one,  and  Mr. 
Hildyard  is  to  be  succeeded  by  his  nephew,  Rev.  Robert  Hildyard.  He  will  be  the  fourth 
of  the  name  in  the  rectorship." 

An  interesting  relic  among  the  Rectory  heirlooms  is  a  handsome  blanket  bearing 
the  date  1733,  which  has  been  passed  down  to  each  successive  Rector  for  one  hundred 
and  seventy-six  years. 


l62 


SALISBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 

OF  the  New  England  towns,  Salisbury  ranks  among  the  earliest,  a  settlement 
having  been  made  at  Merrimac  on  the  Merrimac  River  as  early  as  1638, 
one  of  the  earliest  settlers  being  Roger  Eastman,  the  ancestor  of  all  of 
that  name  in  America,  who  sailed  to  this  country  from  Southampton,  England,  on 
the  ship  "Confidence."  The  General  Court  two  years  later  changed  the  name  of 
this  little  settlement  to  Salisbury  as  several  of  the  first  colonists  came  from  the 
EngHsh  town  of  the  latter  name,  among  the  number  being  the  first  minister.  Rev. 
William  Worcester.  It  is  also  believed  that  one  of  the  deputies  present  at  the 
session  at  which  the  town  was  named,  was  Christopher  Batt,  who  came  from  the 
English  Salisbury.  It  has  been  said  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  town  that  they 
"were  men  fitted  by  education  to  adorn  any  station"  and  by  their  foresight  and 
care  the  town  early  became  a  pioneer  along  several  lines — notably  shipbuilding, 
and  later,  the  slavery  agitation.  Here  was  born  Daniel  Webster's  mother,  Abigail 
Eastman,  the  daughter  of  Roger  Eastman,  who  was  a  great-grandson  of  the  early 
settler. 

There  are  also  SaUsburys  in  Connecticut,  New  Hampshire  and  Vermont. 
Salisbury,  England,  at  the  junction  of  the  Avon  and  the  Wily,  is  a  cathedral 
city  and  the  capital  of  Wiltshire.  More  than  seven  centuries  ago  the  town  and 
cathedral  were  transferred  to  their  present  location  from  the  windy  pinnacle  of 
Old  Sarum  two  miles  distant,  the  direction  of  the  removal,  as  the  tradition  goes, 
being  determined  by  the  flight  of  an  arrow.  The  military  and  the  clergy  quar- 
relled, whereupon  the  bishops  concluded  that  it  was  time  to  move  to  another  local- 
ity, the  present  Salisbury  (or  New  Sarum)  being  chosen  for  the  site  of  the  new 
cathedral,  which  is  considered  to  be  one  of  the  finest  examples  of  early  English 
architecture,  dating  from  1220.  The  following  lines  give  in  a  novel  way  some 
statistics  concerning  the  construction  of  the  building: — 

"As  many  days  as  in  one  year  there  be, 
So  many  windows  in  this  church  you  see; 
So  many  marble  pillars  here  appear 
As  there  are  hours  throughout  the  fleeting  year; 
As  many  gates  as  moons  one  here  may  view. 
Strange  tale  to  tell,  yet  not  more  strange  than  true." 

The  town  soon  grew  in  importance  and  in  1227  Henry  HI  granted  a  charter  to 
incorporate  it,  making  it  a  free  city. 

Queen  Elizabeth,  while  on  her  way  to  Bristol  in  1574,  stopped  at  SaHsbury,  and 
here,  too,  James  I  frequently  came  for  retreat.  When  being  taken  in  captivity 
and  to  eventual  death  in  London,  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  on  reaching  Salisbury, 
feigned  madness  and  leprosy  that  he  might  gain  an  opportunity  to  write  his  immor- 
tal "Apology  for  the  Voyage  to  Guiana."     There  King  James  found  him  and 


SALISBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 


163 


L 


Owned  by  Allan  Forbes 


From  a  print  published  by  J.  Briiton,  London,  1827 

SALISBURY,  ENGLAND, 

showing  the  Cathedral. 

ordered  his  immediate  removal  to  London.  Charles  I  also  came  to  Salisbury 
many  times. 

It  was  at  the  King's  Arms,  still  standing,  that  the  supporters  of  Charles  II 
were  accustomed  to  gather  when  the  monarch  was  in  hiding  at  Heale  House.  A 
part  of  the  Old  George  Inn  was  built  about  1320.  It  was  known  in  the  early 
days  as  "Ye  Grate  Inne  of  Ye  George,"  and  it  is  said  that  Shakespeare  may  have 
played  in  the  courtyard.  Oliver  Cromwell  slept  in  the  Inn  in  October,  1645,  ^^^ 
the  indefatigable  Samuel  Pepys  refers  to  it  in  his  diary  in  these  words:  "Came  to 
the  George  Inn  where  lay  in  a  siLk-bed  and  a  very  good  diet." 

Nor  should  the  Hterary  associations  of  the  old  city  be  forgotten.  There  appeared 
the  first  edition  of  Goldsmith's  "Vicar  of  Wakefield"  and,  in  the  house  still  stand- 
ing near  St.  Anne's  Gate,  Fielding  lived  for  some  time  and  there  wrote  a  portion  of 
"Tom  Jones."  The  original  Thwackum  of  the  novel  was  one  Hele,  who  was  then 
master  of  a  school  in  Salisbury,  where  Addison  received  his  education  "after  start- 
ing life  as  such  a  frail  infant  that  he  had  to  be  baptised  on  the  day  he  was  born." 
Anthony  Trollope  also  laid  the  scenes  of  some  of  his  novels  there. 

During  the  war  SaHsbury  Plain  was  the  great  training  ground  of  the  overseas 
forces  of  the  British  Empire  and  tens  of  thousands  of  Canadians,  New  Zealanders 
and  Australians  were  constantly  thronging  the  streets  of  SaHsbury  to  which  thou- 
sands of  American  soldiers,  no  doubt,  also  found  their  way. 


164 

SHERBORN,  MASSACHUSETTS 

"There's  a  little  grey-built  town 
'Neath  a  windy  western  down, 
Where  the  streets  of  stone-roofed  houses  stand  for  centuries  the  same; 
In  a  lap  of  earth  it  lies 
Over-arched  by  Dorset  skies, 
And  a  gush  of  crystal  water  gives  it  glory  and  a  name. 

Mighty  monarchs,  warriors  bold, 

Of  whose  feats  the  tale  is  told. 
Ruled  and  wrought  there  in  past  ages,  though  by  men  remembered  not, 

Who  with  valiant  deed,  or  wise, 

Lifted  Sherborne  to  the  skies. 
And  their  wisdom  and  their  worth  remain,  the  spirit  of  the  spot. 

Great  and  famous  were  our  sires: 

Let  them  be  as  beacon-fires! 
Nurse  we  well  the  glowing  embers,  lest  their  splendour  be  forgot, 

When  the  pomp  has  ebbed  afar, 

And,  like  some  forsaken  star, 
O'er  the  heights  beloved  of  Ealdhelm  broods  the  Spirit  of  the  spot!" 
(Part  of  the  verses  written  by  James  Rhoades  for  the  Pageant  held  in  Sherborne,  England,  in  1905.) 

EARLY  in  1905  Francis  Bardwell,  Esq.,  Town  Clerk  of  Sherborn,  Massachu- 
setts, wrote  a  letter  to  the  Vicar  of  Sherborne,  England,  the  substance  of 
which  we  quote: — 

"Town  of  Sherborn,  Inc.  1674 
Office  of  the  Town  Clerk, 
Settled  1652.  Sherborn,  Mass. 

To  THE  Rector  of  the  Established  Church,  Sherborne,  Eng. 

Dear  Sir:  Being  Town  Clerk  of  this  town  and  knowing  that  it  was  called  after  the 
town  of  Sherborne  in  England,  I  write  to  ask  you  for  information,  feeling  sure  that  you  can 
either  furnish  it  yourself,  or  place  this  communication  in  the  hands  of  someone  who  can. 

This  town  was  settled  by  Hopestill  Layland,  Thomas  Holbrook,  and  Nicholas  Wood 
or  Woods.  Do  any  of  their  names  appear  on  the  Parish  Register  or  among  the  Church 
Records? 

Tradition  has  it  that  it  was  probably  named  in  honor  of  Henry  Adams,  who  was  sup- 
posed to  be  a  native  of  Sherborne,  Eng.  Other  Incorporators  were  Morse,  Bullen  (or 
Bolyn),  BuUard,  Hill,  Breck,  Fairbanks  and  Perry.  Do  any  of  these  names  appear  on 
your  records?  Tradition  again  says  that  the  word  Sherborn  is  derived  from  the  Saxon 
and  means  '  pure  water, '  which  is  singularly  true  in  regard  to  this  town ;  is  this  correct? 

I  should  very  much  like  to  know  about  our  Mother  Town,  its  foundation  and  history, 
in  order  to  write  down  the  facts  and  place  them  among  our  town  records. 

Is  there  a  history  of  your  town  that  can  be  purchased?  I  would  also  like  to  purchase 
photographs  of  the  Church  and  of  all  places  of  interest  for  our  Public  Library  here. 

I  write  you  because  I  think  you  will  perhaps  be  interested  somewhat  in  this  little  town 
of  the  Colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay  and  because,  when  I  was  abroad  in  1895, 1  was  searcn- 
ing  concerning  my  own  family  (the  DeBerdewelles,  of  Bardwell,  Suffolk)  and  I  always 
found  the  Rectors  and  Curates  wilhng  and  pleased  to  assist.  .  .  . 

With  great  respect  I  have  the  honor  to  remain 

Your  Humble  Servant, 

Francis  Bardwell, 

Town-Clerk,  Sherborn,  Mass.  U.S.A.'* 


SHERBORN,   MASSACHUSETTS  165 

The  answer  from  the  English  town  spoke  of  a  forthcoming  pageant  commemorat- 
ing the  twelve  hundredth  anniversary  of  the  founding  of  the  town.  This  unex- 
pected result  of  the  letter  from  our  Sherborn  encouraged  Mr.  Bardwell  again  to 
write  to  the  mother  town,  as  follows: — 

"Sherborn,  Mass.  March  7th,  1905. 
To  THE  Hon.  Secretaries, 

Sherborne  Pageant,  Sherborne,  England. 

Gentlemen: — 

The  kind  letter  with  enclosures  sent  me  by  Mr.  Field  came  duly  to  hand;  I  cannot 
tell  you  how  pleased  I  was  to  receive  the  same.  I  have  delayed  in  answering  until  after 
our  Annual  Town  Meeting  on  March  6th,  because  I  desired  to  read  the  letter  to  the  towns- 
people there  assembled,  and  request  some  action.  Everybody  was  interested,  and  a 
Committee  was  immediately  chosen  to  draw  up  greetings  to  the  Mother  town  on  the 
occasion  of  the  1 200th  anniversary.  These  greetings  will  be  forwarded  to  you  shortly. 
I  send  you  by  this  mail  a  copy  of  the  Boston  Transcript,  in  which  I  have  called  the  atten- 
tion of  the  readers  to  the  celebration.  This  paper  has  a  very  broad  circulation,  and  reaches 
everyone  interested  in  genealogical  research  in  the  United  States. 

I  cannot  tell  you  how  interested  I  am  personally  in  this  matter,  and  how  much  it 
means  to  this  little  town,  which  is,  let  me  assure  you,  a  worthy  daughter  of  so  illustrious  a 
mother. 

The  text  of  the  Folk-play  which  Mr.  Field  so  kindly  sent  me  I  shall  have  bound  and 
placed  in  our  Town  Library. 

I  wish  it  were  so  that  some  of  our  townspeople  could  be  present  at  your  celebration, 
and  perhaps  it  can  be  arranged;  anyway  our  hearts  are  with  you,  and  we  reach  out  to 
clasp  your  hands  across  the  sea. 

Believe  me,  with  the  best  of  good  wishes. 

Most  sincerely, 

Francis  Bardwell, 

Town  Clerk  of  Sherborn.'' 

This  note  was  followed  in  a  few  months  by  still  another  letter  expressing  the 
greeting  of  Sherborn,  Massachusetts,  on  the  twelve  hundredth  anniversary  of  the 
town  of  Sherborne,  England: — 

"Sherborn,  Mass.  May  26,  1905. 
To  the  Hon.  Secretaries, 

The  Sherborne  Pageant,  The  Parade,  Sherborne,  Dorset. 

Gentlemen: — 

It  is  my  pleasure  to  inform  you  that,  for  and  in  behalf  of  this  Town  of  Sherborn, 
Massachusetts,  I  sent  you  today  by  the  American  Express  our  town's  formal  greeting 
on  the  occasion  of  the  1200th  Anniversary  of  the  Foundation  of  the  Mother  Town. 

I  regret  exceedingly  that  our  Town  has  not  chosen  an  accredited  representative  to  bear 
these  greetings  and  to  be  with  you  at  this  time,  for  this  anniversary  means  so  much  to  our 
Town,  the  foundation  of  whose  existence  found  root  in  English  soil. 

When  we  look  back  upon  the  beginning  of  this  Town  and  think  of  the  character  of  its 
founders,  and  through  them  and  their  influence  in  the  building  of  a  second  great  English 
speaking  nation,  we  have  profound  respect  for  the  Mother  Country  which  reared  such 
sterling  men.  There  is  something  firm,  resolute,  fearless,  and  trustworthy  in  the  New 
England  character,  and  this  is  our  heritage  from  those  who  came  from  Old  England  to 
establish  new  homes  in  a  strange  land. 

So  then  at  this  time,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  epochs  in  the  history  of  your  ancient 


i66  SHERBORN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

Town,  when  strangers  throng  your  thoroughfares  and  marvel  at  your  Historic  Pageant, 
be  assured  that  although  an  ocean  separates  us,  still  your  kinsfolk  in  this  little  town,  your 
American  daughter,  feel  pride  in  your  great  Anniversary,  and  wish  you  all  joy  in  your 
festivities,  and  the  heartiest  sentiments  of  prosperity  for  your  future. 
With  much  esteem,  I  have  the  honor  to  be 

Yours  with  respect, 

Francis  Bardwell, 

Town  Clerk  of  Sherborn.^' 

The  formal  greeting  reads  as  follows: — 

"To  THE  Town  of  Sherborne,  Dorset,  England, 

From  her  American  Namesake  the  Town  of  Sherborn,  in  Massachusetts. 

Greeting — Our  forefathers,  men  of  indomitable  spirit  and  God-fearing  ancestry,  made 
their  habitation  in  the  wilderness,  and,  with  the  homefeeling  strong  within  them,  gave  to 
their  new  abode  the  ancient  name  of  Sherborn.  We,  their  descendants,  have  received 
with  filial  pride  tidings  of  the  forthcoming  celebration  of  the  twelve  hundredth  anniversary 
of  the  founding  of  the  Mother  Town.  Your  glorious  record  of  traditions  and  memories 
of  a  thousand  years  we  deem  our  common  heritage. 

We  greet  you  on  this  memorable  occasion  with  a  message  of  esteem  and  good  will, 
trusting  that  the  ties  of  a  common  blood  and  a  common  tongue  may,  through  the  advanc- 
ing ages,  more  closely  bind  town  to  town  and  nation  to  nation.  May  the  spirit  that  existed 
in  the  eighth  century  in  Old  England,  and  that  in  the  seventeenth  century  found  echo  in 
the  wilds  of  New  England,  be  an  inspiration  to  all  our  lineage.  And  may  the  coming  years 
bring  to  all  peace,  prosperity,  and  happiness,  by  the  grace  of  God,  who  for  twelve  hundred 
years  has  cherished  the  people  of  St.  Ealdhelm's  honoured  town. 

Done  pursuant  to  a  vote  passed  at  the  annual  town  meeting  held  March  the  sixth,  in 
the  year  of  Our  Lord,  One  Thousand  Nine  Hundred  and  Five. 

Inhabitants  of  the  Town  of  Sherborn,  Massachusetts, 

By  its  Committee, 

Francis  Bardwell, 
Robert  H.  Leland, 
Charles  O.  Littlefield." 

This  greeting  from  Sherborn  was  read  by  a  herald  on  horseback  at  the  end  of  the 
pageant,  being  received  with  great  applause,  and  it  was  also  read  a  second  time  in 
Sherborne  Abbey.  It  turned  out,  however,  that  our  town  was  represented  in  three 
different  ways.  First  of  all,  a  Miss  Holbrook,  who  was  a  direct  descendant  of 
Thomas  Holbrook,  one  of  the  original  settlers  of  our  Sherborn,  went  all  the  way 
from  her  home  here  in  order  to  be  present  at  the  celebration  in  Sherborne,  England. 
Secondly, — on  one  day  of  the  pageant,  Sherborn,  Massachusetts,  was  officially 
represented  by  Lorin  Andrews,  Esq.,  U.S.  Consul  at  Bristol,  England.  Thirdly, — 
it  was  discovered  that  the  daughter  of  L.  N.  Parker,  Esq.,  was  a  direct  descendant 
of  Richard  Parker  who  originally  owned  the  land  comprised  in  our  Sherborn  that 
was  sold  to  the  immigrants  who  came  from  Sherborne,  England.  This  interesting 
information  was  brought  to  light  by  Miss  Holbrook  and  was  not  known,  curiously 
enough,  at  the  time  Miss  Parker  was  chosen  for  one  of  the  most  important  parts 
in  the  festival.     It  may  be  interesting  to  mention  that  Louis  Napoleon  Parker,  Esq., 


SHERBORN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


167 


F7^^Sherborner'publisheTbiMcCan;^;Sh^^n.  Kindness  Francis  Bard^ell,  Es,.  and  Henry  G.  Vau.han,  Esq. 

LONG   STREET  AND   CONDUIT,  SHERBORNE,  ENGLAND, 

showing  Sherborne  Abbey  in  the  background. 
At  thP  nafreant  held  in  the  English  town  in  1905,  at  which  the  Massachusetts  Sherborn  was  represented,  a 
messagSom  Ehe  MassaA^^^^^^^  was  read'i^.  the  Abbey.     The  New  England  town  is  spelled  without 

the  final  "e." 

was  the  music  master  of  the  Sherborne  School  and  is  well  known  on  account  of  being 
the  author  of  the  plays  "DisraeH,"  ''Rosemary"  and  ''Pomander  Walk."  He  was 
chiefly  responsible  for  the  great  success  of  this  celebration.  The  last  scene  of  the 
pageant  represented  the  English  Sherborne  with  the  British  emblem  and  the 
American  Sherborn  with  the  Massachusetts  coat  of  arms  standing  together  on  a 
pedestal,  and  below  them  were  four  girls  carrying  a  model  of  Sherborne  Abbey,  while 
four  boys  dressed  as  Indians  had  with  them  a  model  of  the  "Mayflower."  This 
picture  is  shown  on  the  next  page.  The  two  towns  then  embraced  while  the  band 
played  "The  Star-Spangled  Banner"  and  "God  Save  the  King."  Many  tableaux 
were  presented  which  showed  the  history  of  the  old  town,  among  the  most  interest- 
ing being  St.  Ealdhelm  receiving  the  pastoral  staff  from  King  Ina;  Bishop  Ealhstan 
defeating  the  Danes;  Death  of  King  Ethelbald;  Bishop  Ealhstan  blessing  the  boy 
Alfred;  Bishop  Wulfsy  and  monks;  William  the  Conqueror  removing  the  See  to 
Sarum';  Bishop  Roger  of  Caen  laying  the  foundation  stone  of  Sherborne  Castle; 
Foundation  of  the  Hospital  of  St.  John;  Sherborne  School  receiving  its  charter  and 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh's  arrival  in  Sherborne.  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  is  closely  associated 
with  Sherborne,  for  it  was  in  the  castle  given  to  him  by  Queen  Elizabeth  in  1599 
that  he  spent  some  of  the  happiest  years  of  his  life.     Vicar  W.  F.  Lyon  in  writing 


From  the  "Story  of  the  Sherborne  Pageant  Produced  in  the  Old  Castle  Ruins  at  Sherborne  in 

June,  IQ05  " 

By  Cecil  P.  Godden,  Barrister-at-Law 


Kindness  Francis  Bardwell,  Esq. 
and  Henry  G.  Vaughan,  Esq. 


SHERBORNE,  ENGLAND,  AND    SHERBORN,  MASSACHUSETTS 

Final  tableau  of  a  pageant  held  in  Sherborne,  England,  in  1905,  to  celebrate  the  twelve  hundredth  anni- 
versary of  that  town.  The  lady  at  the  right,  holding  the  American  flag  in  one  hand  and  the  arms  of  Mas- 
sachusetts in  the  other,  is  a  descendant  of  Richard  Parker,  one  of  the  original  settlers  of  Sherborn,  Massa- 
chusetts. One  of  the  Indian  boys  is  holding  a  model  of  the  "Mayflower."  The  pageant  was  held  on 
the  grounds  of  Sherborne  Castle. 


SHERBORN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


169 


From  a  photograph  by'F.Frith  &■  Co.,  Surrey,  England 

SHERBORNE   CASTLE 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes- Robertson,  Esq. 

SHERBORNE,  ENGLAND 


The  older  part  of  this  building  was  built  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh.     In  these  grounds  the  pageant  of  1905  was 
held,  at  which  time  the  Massachusetts  town  was  represented,  as  shown  in  another  illustration. 

from  the  Sherborne  Vicarage  in  1903  to  our  Sherborn  told  the  story  of  the  building 
by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  of  the  present  residence  of  the  Lords  of  the  Manor  in  Sher- 
borne. There  is  a  seat  in  these  grounds  upon  which  Sir  Walter  was  smoking  some 
tobacco  which  he  had  just  introduced  into  the  country.  The  smoke  exuding  from 
his  mouth  caused  his  servant  to  think  that  his  master  was  on  fire,  whereupon  he 
threw  a  jug  of  beer  over  him  to  put  it  out. 

The  word  ''Sherborne"  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  "Scir,"  meaning  clear, 
and  "Burne,"  meaning  a  brook  or  spring,  the  monks  having  caUed  the  place  Fons 
Limpidus,  signifying  "the  clear  spring."  In  705  a.d.  it  was  the  seat  of  a  bishopric 
founded  by  Ina,  King  of  the  West  Saxons,  with  his  kinsman  Ealdhelm,  Abbot  of 
Malmesbury,  occupying  the  position  of  first  Bishop  of  Sherborne.  This  EngUsh 
town,  lying  in  the  most  picturesque  part  of  Dorsetshire  and  once  the  capital 
city  of  Wessex,  is  celebrated  to-day  for  its  magnificent  abbey,  its  flourishing 
school  and  its  two  picturesque  castles. 

The  pageant  took  place  near  the  ruins  of  the  old  Castle  which  was  founded  by 
Roger  of  Caen,  Bishop  of  Sarum  and  Abbot  of  Sherborne. 

Our  Sherborn  was  settled  in  1652  and  incorporated  in  1674  when  it  was  first 
called  Shearborn,  the  first  settlement  having  been  at  "Bogestow."     The  present 


lyo 


SHERBORN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


historian  of  Sherborn  believes  the  name  of  his  town  was  given  in  deference  to  John 
Hull,  the  "Mint  Master,"  who  owned  an  original  grant  of  land.  He  was  not  born  in 
Sherborne,  England,  but  his  family  was  closely  associated  with  Raleigh,  who  knew 
Sherborne  so  well. 


SPRINGFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 

WILLIAM  PYNCHON  of  the  little  parish  of  Springfield,  England,  would 
be  pleased  and  doubtless  much  surprised  if  he  could  see  the  great  city 
of  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  which  was  founded  by  him.  It  would 
seem  as  if  the  people  of  our  Springfield  should  place  a  special  memorial  to  him  in 
addition  to  the  memorial  in  the  Peabody  Cemetery  which  has  been  dedicated 
to  the  Pynchon  family.  Some  years  ago,  we  are  told  by  W.  F.  Adams,  Esq., 
President  of  the  Connecticut  Valley  Historical  Society,  the  children  of  one  of  the 
schools  of  Springfield  subscribed  eight  dollars  to  start  a  fund  to  erect  a  proper 
memorial  to  this  early  pioneer.  There  are  some  additional  funds  amounting  to 
one  hundred  and  sixty  dollars  which  have  been  collected  by  the  Historical  Society, 


Kindness  W.  F.  Adams,  Esq. 

PYNCHON  FAMILY  MEMORIAL  IN  THE  PEABODY  CEMETERY,  SPRINGFIELD, 

MASSACHUSETTS 

William  Pynchon  was  rector  of  All  Saints  Church  in  Springfield,  England,  and  in  his  honour  our  city  of 

Springfield,  Massachusetts,  was  so  named. 


SPRINGFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


171 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  If.  F.  Adams,  Esq. 

ALL  SAINTS   CHURCH,   SPRINGFIELD,   ESSEX   COUNTY,  ENGLAND, 

of  which  Wilham  Pynchon,  founder  of  the  city  of  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  was  warden,  and  after  which 
All  Saints  Church,  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  was  designed  and  named. 

also  a  private  subscription  of  one  thousand  dollars  for  this  purpose  and  doubtless 
some  day  the  rest  of  the  fund  will  be  raised  by  the  people  of  Springfield. 

WiUiam  Pynchon  was  educated  at  Oxford,  was  one  of  the  patentees  named  in 
the  charter  of  the  Colony  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  dated  1628,  and  was  connected 
with  the  government  of  the  company  before  it  was  transferred  to  America.  He 
lived  in  Springfield,  England,  and  while  there  was  warden  of  All  Saints  Church  for 
which  All  Saints  Church  in  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  was  named  and  from  which 
it  was  also  designed.  He  came  over  with  his  wife  and  four  children  in  the  "Jewel," 
one  of  Winthrop's  fleet,  in  1630  and  during  his  first  year  in  Massachusetts  he  founded 
Roxbury  and  became  the  treasurer  of  the  colony.  He  believed  that  it  was  possi- 
ble to  get  large  returns  by  trading  with  the  Indians  on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut 
and  he  recommended,  therefore,  that  his  fellow-townspeople  establish  a  new  set- 
tlement there.  Accordingly,  the  inhabitants  of  Roxbury  in  1635  were  granted 
leave  to  "remove  themselves  to  any  place  they  should  think  'meet.'" 

Springfield  possesses  the  original  declaration  dated  May  14,  1636,  under  which 
the  settlement  was  begun,  a  few  settlers,  however,  having  occupied  the  lands  near 
here  a  year  or  two  before.  The  names  of  the  earliest  settlers  are  William  Pynchon, 
Miles  Morgan,  Henry  Smith,  EHzur  Holyoke,  Henry  Burt,  Lieutenant  Thomas 
Cooper,  John  Pynchon,  Deacon  Samuel  Chapin  and  Richard  Sikes.  Other  impor- 
tant people  in  the  town  in  later  years  were  the  Brewer,  Dwight  and  Bliss  families. 

This  change  to  Connecticut  proved  profitable,  for  Pynchon  was  soon  able  to 


172 


SPRINGFIELD,  MASSACHUSETTS 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  W.  F.  Adams,  Esq. 

ALL  SAINTS   CHURCH,   SPRINGFIELD,  MASSACHUSETTS, 
named  for  the  church  of  the  same  name  in  Springfield,  England. 

ship  to  England  more  than  one  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  beaver  skins.  River 
fishing  also  became  very  profitable  to  these  settlers,  and  at  one  time  shad  were  so 
common  that  a  man  on  being  hired  was  compelled  to  agree  to  eat  one  shad  a  cer- 
tain number  of  times  a  week. 

In  1640  the  name  of  the  town  was  changed  from  the  plantation  of  ''Agawam" 
to  Springfield,  in  honour,  of  course,  of  Pynchon,  being  therefore,  the  first  town  to 
be  settled  in  Massachusetts  west  of  Boston,  Cambridge  and  Watertown.  It  is 
interesting  to  mention,  perhaps,  that  for  one  hundred  years  after  the  settlement  the 
Connecticut  River  was  still  spoken  of  as  the  "Great  River." 

The  latter  part  of  William  Pynchon 's  life  was  unfortunate,  for  a  book  written 
by  him  that  appeared  in  London,  England,  was  so  severely  criticised  that  he  was 
forced  to  leave  this  country  permanently  and  to  return  to  England  in  the  year 
1652.  Much  correspondence  ensued  between  England  and  our  Springfield  with 
the  final  result  that  the  book  was  burned  in  Boston  by  order  of  the  General  Court. 

Pynchon  bought  land  in  Wraysbury,  just  below  Windsor  Castle,  where  he  lived 
until  he  died  in  1662.  We  give  a  picture  of  the  Pynchon  tablet  placed  in  the 
church  in  Writtle,  England,  and  also  another  showing  the  interior  of  the  church 
in  Wraysbury,  England,  where  William  Pynchon  was  buried.  Pynchon's  son, 
John,  took  his  father's  place  in  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  and  it  has  often  been 
said  that  they  have  been  to  that  city  what  the  Adams  family  has  been  to  Massa- 


SPRINGFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


173 


From  "Springfield"  by  Mason  A.  Green 


THE     PYNCHON     TABLET     IN 
WRITTLE,  ENGLAND, 

to  the  memory  of  ancestors  of  William 
Pynchon. 


Kindness  W.  F.  Adams,  Esq. 


INTERIOR  OF  THE  CHURCH  IN  WRAYSBURY, 
ENGLAND, 

where  William  Pynchon,  founder  of  Springfield,  Mas- 
sachusetts, is  buried. 


chusetts  and  to  the  country.  It  is  also  an  interesting  fact  that  the  Pynchon  family 
is  still  prominent  to-day  in  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  and  as  there  are  fourteen 
towns  in  this  country  named  for  Roxbury  and  thirteen  towns  named  for  Spring- 
field, WilUam  Pynchon  deserves  a  foremost  position  in  the  history  of  New  England. 
The  first  minister  of  the  Springfield  colony  was  Rev.  George  Moxon  who  was 
installed  as  pastor  in  1638.  The  first  parish  meeting-place  was  not  erected,  how- 
ever, until  1645,  3-nd  it  is  said  to  be  the  first  building  devoted  to  religious  worship 
in  this  State  west  of  Boston  and  its  vicinity;  it  was,  of  course,  the  beginning  of 
the  First  Church  of  Springfield,  the  present  church  building  not  being  erected 
until  18 19  when  Court  Square  was  laid  out  as  a  park.  Near  this  church,  on  State 
Street,  is  the  well-known  St.  Gaudens  statue  of  "The  Puritan"  erected  by  Chester 
W.  Chapin,  Esq.,  in  memory  of  Deacon  Samuel  Chapin,  one  of  the  founders  of 
the  city.  Deacon  Chapin  was  one  of  the  first  selectmen,  was  deacon  of  the  first 
church  and,  with  Pynchon  and  Elizur  Holyoke,  was  one  of  the  first  magistrates  of 
the  town.     In  Court  Square  is  also  a  statue  of  Miles  Morgan  of  Bristol,  England, 


SPRINGFIELD,  MASSACHUSETTS  17S 

one  of  the  pioneer  band  who  with  Pynchon  and  Chapin  settled  in  the  town  in 
1636.  It  is  interesting  to  mention  that  Miles  Morgan  married  in  Beverly,  Massa- 
chusetts; and  it  is  said  that  the  bride  and  groom  were  obliged  to  return  to 
Springfield  on  foot  carrying  with  them  muskets  and  household  articles. 

Traffic  on  the  Connecticut  River  has  been  discussed  continually  and  at  one  of 
the  Springfield  celebrations  this  poem,  written  by  Charles  H.  Barrows,  Esq.,  en- 
titled "To  the  New  Connecticut,"  was  read;  it  gives  a  very  exaggerated  idea, 
however,  of  the  possibilities  of  navigation  on  this  fine  river: — 

"Let  every  sleeper  waken 
And  all  the  waking  shout, 
Let  measures  prompt  be  taken 
To  dredge  the  harbour  out. 

Then  silent  keep,  0  doubter, 

We  all  shall  live  to  see 
A  thoroughfare  by  water 

From  Springfield  to  the  sea. 

Soon  the  white  wings  of  Commerce 

Will  at  our  port  be  found, 
And  as  one  sign  of  promise 

We  will  let  Long  Island  '  Sound.' 

We'll  keep  sperm  whales,  we  dreamers, 

In  flocks,  at  Windsor  Locks, 
When  European  steamers 

Tie  up  at  Springfield  docks." 

Springfield,  England,  is  the  eastern  suburb  of  Chehnsford.  Here  is  situated  the 
County  Gaol,  a  gloomy  building  enlarged  in  recent  years  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  "guests"  consigned  to  it,  but  once  past  this  depressing  place  Springfield  is 
pleasing  and  cheerful.  Its  long  street,  where  the  quaint  sign  of  the  "Three  Cups" 
stands  out,  gives  place  to  suburban  villas  with  their  attractive  grounds.  The 
parish  church  of  All  Saints  is  shown  on  page  171.  Goldsmith  lived  in  the  town  for 
some  time  while  writing  "The  Deserted  Village." 

Other  New  England  towns  by  the  name  of  Springfield  are  in  Maine,  New 
Hampshire  and  Vermont. 


176 


o 


STRATFORD,  CONNECTICUT 

LIVER  WENDELL  HOLMES  wrote  the  following  poem  which  was  read 
at  the  dedication  of  the  Shakespeare  Memorial  Fountain  at  Stratford-on- 
Avon  in  the  year  1887: — 

"Land  of  our  Fathers,  ocean  makes  us  two, 

But  heart  to  heart  is  true! 
Proud  is  your  towering  daughter  in  the  West, 
Yet  in  her  burning  life-blood  reign  confest 
Her  mother's  pulses  beating  in  her  breast. 
This  holy  fount,  whose  rills  from  heaven  descend, 

Its  gracious  drops  shall  lend — 
Both  foreheads  bathed  in  that  baptismal  dew, 
And  love  make  one  the  old  home  and  the  new!" 

On  this  occasion  Henry  Irving  made  the  principal  speech  and  there  was  also  read 
a  letter  from  James  Russell  Lowell,  which  expressed  his  behef  that  the  dust  that  is 
sacred  to  the  EngHshman  is  not  the  less  sacred  to  the  American.  This  memorial, 
the  gift  of  George  W.  Childs  of  Philadelphia,  during  the  jubilee  year  of  Queen 
Victoria,  was  placed  in  the  old  Rother  Market,  not  far  from  Shakespeare's  birth- 
place in  Henley  Street.  One  of  the  inscriptions  on  this  fountain  records  these  words 
of  Washington  Irving:  "Ten  thousand  blessings  on  the  bard  who  has  gilded  the 
dull  reaUties  of  Hfe  with  innocent  illusions." 

Other  places  of  interest  to  the  visitor  in  this  ancient  Warwickshire  town,  besides 
the  birthplace  and  the  fountain,  are  Anne  Hathaway 's  cottage;  New  Place,  where 
once  stood  the  house  in  which  the  dramatist  Hved  and  died;  the  Shakespeare  Memo- 
rial Theatre,  Library  and  Picture  Gallery,  where  performances  of  his  plays  are  given 
each  year  on  his  birthday — the  dramatic  season  extending  over  three  or  four  weeks; 
and  his  tomb  in  Holy  Trinity  Church,  visited  each  year  by  thousands  of  tourists. 
It  may  be  of  interest  to  mention  that  in  the  south  end  of  the  Clopton  Chapel  of  this 
church  is  a  window,  which  was  bought  with  contributions  made  by  visitors  from  the 
United  States,  and  is  hence  known  as  the  American  window.  Of  the  Americans 
who  have  been  fascinated  by  the  old  town,  we  may  mention  Washington  Irving  and 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  who  spent  much  time  hngering  "on  Avon's  banks,  whose 
streams  appear  to  wind  with  eddies  fond  round  Shakespeare's  tomb,"  to  quote 
from  a  poem  written  by  John  G.  Cooper.  This  beautiful  river  in  its  relation  to 
Shakespeare  is  also  well  described  by  Longfellow : — 

"Flow  on,  sweet  river!  like  his  verse 
Who  lies  beneath  this  sculptured  hearse; 
Nor  wait  beside  the  churchyard  wall 
For  him  who  cannot  hear  thy  call." 

Washington  Irving  has  made  famous  the  Red  Horse  Hotel  where  he  so  often  stayed 
and  where  he  wrote  his  "Sketch  Book."     There  is  also  the  Shakespeare  Hotel, 


STRATFORD,   CONNECTICUT 


177 


the  building  dating  back  to 
the  fourteenth  century.  Its 
old  sign  upon  which  appears 
Shakespeare's  portrait  and  this 
legend,  "Take  him  for  all  in 
all,  we  shall  not  look  upon 
his  like  again,"  is  now  shown 
inside  the  hotel.  Even  the 
bedrooms  are  named  after  some 
of  his  plays,  while  the  bar  was 
once,  and  probably  still  is, 
decorated  by  these  appropriate 
words,  "Measure  for  measure." 
Another  point  of  interest,  of 
course,  is  Harvard  House,  the 
early  home  of  the  mother  of 
John  Harvard,  described  in 
Part  I  under  Cambridge. 

It  is  told  on  good  authority 
that  the  great  American  show- 
man, P.  T.  Barnum  of  Bridge- 
port, Stratford's  neighboring 
city,  once  endeavored  to  pur- 
chase Shakespeare's  birthplace 
to  exhibit  at  his  circuses  in 
this  country,  while  at  another 
time  some  German  professors 
asked  permission  to  examine 
Shakespeare's  brain  to  deter- 
mine whether  its  size  was 
in  proportion  to  his  genius. 
This  last  request  was  made 
in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  poet  himself  is  said  to  have  requested  that  this  verse 
should  be  cut  on  his  tombstone : — 

"Good  frend  for  Jesus  sake  forbeare, 
To  digg  the  dust  encloased  heare: 
Bleste  be  y*^  man  y'  spares  thes  stones, 
And  curst  be  he  y*^  moves  my  bones." 

The  Connecticut  town  is  mindful  of  the  fact  that  it  is  named  for  William  Shake- 
speare's home  across  the  seas  and,  in  his  memory  and  as  a  further  recognition  of 
the  common  literature  and  heritage  of  the  two  countries,  the  donor  of  the  Stratford 


I'koto^rapked  by  Douglas  McNeill, 
Sir  atjord-on- Avon 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes -Roberison,  Esq. 


SHAKESPEARE    FOUNTAIN,    STRATFORD-ON-AVON, 
ENGLAND, 

presented  by  George  W.  Childs,  of  Philadelphia.  It  was  dedi- 
cated in  1887,  the  jubilee  year  of  Queen  Victoria,  the  principal 
speech  being  made  by  Henry  Irving.  A  letter  from  James 
Russell  Lowell  was  read  at  the  dedication,  as  well  as  a  poem 
written  especially  for  the  occasion  by  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes. 


178 


STRATFORD,   CONNECTICUT 


Photographed  by  George  B.  Brayton  From  rn  old  drawing  by  J.  Brandard,  ouned  by  J.  Murray  Forbes,  Etq. 

SHAKESPEARE'S  BIRTHPLACE,   STRATFORD-ON-AVON,  ENGLAND 


Library,  Birdseye  Blakeman,  a  native  son  of  the  New  England  Stratford,  placed  a 
Shakespeare  rose  window,  with  the  poet's  bust  in  the  center,  in  the  Library  when 
it  was  built  in  1896.  Ttds  building,  which  is  situated  near  the  old  burial  place 
that  was  set  off  in  1670,  contains  a  tablet  with  this  inscription: — 

IN    MEMORY   or 

Six  generations  of  ancestors 

residents  of  Stratford 

posterity  of 

Rev.  Adam  Blakeman 

1598-1665 

Dea.  John  Birdseye 

1616-1690 

This  ground  was  dedicated 

and  this  house  built 

by 

Birdseye  Blakeman 

1824-1894 


STRATFORD,   CONNECTICUT 


179 


a  photograph  Kindness  Miss  Frances  B.  Russell 

STRATFORD   LIBRARY,  STRATFORD,  CONNECTICUT 

The  Shakespeare  window  shown  in  another  illustration  is  the  circular  window  appearing  above. 

This  earliest  Blakeman  ancestor  was  a  graduate  of  Oxford  University  and  was  such 
a  learned  man  that  he  believed  the  English  language  was  not  a  suitable  vehicle  to 
express  a  scholar's  work,  preferring  Latin  Uke  many  others  of  his  day.  Another  of 
the  earhest  settlers  in  this  Connecticut  town  was  William  Beardsley,  who  lived  in 
the  EngKsh  Stratford  during  the  days  when  Shakespeare  was  alive;  who  probably 
when  a  boy  witnessed  the  bard's  funeral  and  who  is  said  to  have  brought  across 
the  waters  the  name  of  Stratford  for  our  town.  A  few  years  ago  his  connection 
with  Stratford-on-Avon  was  estabhshed  by  one  of  his  descendants,  Mrs.  Margaret 
Beardsley  De  Lacour,  a  native  of  the  Connecticut  Stratford,  who  found  his  record 
in  the  parish  register  there.  The  town  of  Avon  in  New  York  State  was  named 
for  the  English  river  by  descendants  of  Beardsley.  Other  well-known  names  of 
the  earliest  settlers  are  Curtiss,  Fairchild,  Hurd,  Peat,  Sherwood,  Wells  and  Wil- 
coxson.  Two  other  Englishmen  who  took  a  great  interest  in  the  New  England 
town  were  Thomas  Welles  and  his  brother  John,  who  are  ancestors  of  this  family 
now  living  in  our  Stratford.     It  may  be  of  interest  to  record  that  the  first  wife  of 


i8o 


STRATFORD,   CONNECTICUT 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  Miss  Frances  B.  Russell 


Thomas  Welles  (who  became  a 
governor  of  Connecticut)  was 
EHzabeth  Foote,  daughter  of  John 
Dening  of  England,  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  related  to 
Shakespeare.  A  further  proof  of 
this  relationship  is  the  fact  that 
Dame  Elizabeth,  wife  of  Sir  John 
Berrod  and  grand-daughter  of  the 
celebrated  poet,  requested  in  her 
will  that  £50  be  given  to  her 
cousin  Thomas  Welles. 

In  the  record  of  the  descend- 
ants of  the  widow  EHzabeth  Cur- 
tiss  who  settled  in  Stratford, 
Connecticut,  1639-40,  which  was 
compiled  by  Frederic  Haines 
Curtiss,  Chairman  and  Federal 
Reserve  Agent  of  the  Federal 
Reserve  Bank  of  Boston,  is 
found  the  following:  "John 
Curtis  of  London,  England,  had 
his  coat  of  arms  described  below,  confirmed  May  9,  1632,  just  forty- two  days 
before  Wilham  Curtis  of  Roxbury  sailed  for  New  England."  In  a  note  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Roxbury  1638-40  appears  the  name  of  John  Corteis,  but  in 
1639  John  Curtis  was  a  resident  of  Wethersfield,  Connecticut.  In  1640  John 
Curtis  left  Wethersfield  for  Cuphag  (Stratford)  and  his  name  disappears,  but 
we  find  the  widow  Elizabeth  Curtiss  and  her  two  sons  on  the  earliest  records 
of  Stratford.  The  records  of  the  College  of  Heraldry  in  London,  England, 
show  that  the  coat  of  arms  was  confirmed  to  John  Curtis  of  London,  Gent., 
son  of  William  Curtis  of  Hatton  in  the  county  of  Warwick,  Gent.,  son  of 
Eustace  Curtiss  of  Malestock — spelled  also  Makestock  and  Makestoke — in  the 
said  county,  Gent.,  son  of  William,  who  was  son  and  heir  of  John  Curtis  of 
Malestock  aforesaid,  Gent. 

The  Curtis  family  was  from  all  accounts  one  of  the  most  prominent  among  the 
first  settlers  of  Stratford  and  it  has  been  claimed  that  they  suggested  naming  the 
town  after  Stratford-on-Avon,  England.  If  this  be  true,  it  adds  another  proof 
towards  the  acceptance  of  the  pedigree  with  the  coat  of  arms,  for  Makestoke  and 
Hatton  were  but  small  hamlets  and  Stratford-on-Avon  was  the  nearest  town  of  any 
size.  That  the  name  of  Curtiss  was  well  known  in  Shakespeare's  town  is  shown 
by  the  fact  that  the  poet  used  it  for  one  of  the  characters  in  "The  Taming  of  the 


SHAKESPEARE    WINDOW    IN    THE     STRATFORD 
LIBRARY,  STRATFORD,  CONNECTICUT, 

placed  there  by  Birdseye  Blakeman,  donor  of  the  library, 
who  was  a  descendant  of  Rev.  Adam  Blakeman,  one  of 
the  earliest  settlers  in  this  New  England  town. 


STRATFORD,  CONNECTICUT  i8i 

Shrew."  Thomas  Alsop  and  Richard  Booth  are  also  supposed  to  have  been  natives 
of  Stratford-on-Avon,  and  as  the  Earl  of  Warwick  had  letters  patent  to  that  part 
of  Connecticut,  it  is  more  than  probable  that  many  of  the  early  settlers  throughout 
the  colony  were  from  Warwickshire.  The  Beardsley,  Booth  and  Curtis  families 
are  still  largely  represented  in  the  Connecticut  town,  there  being  at  least  twenty- 
five  famihes  of  the  latter  name.  Judge  Howard  J.  Curtis  of  the  Supreme  Court  of 
Connecticut,  who  is  also  the  President  of  the  Stratford  Library  Association,  is  one 
of  the  many  descendants. 

The  Art  League  in  the  nearby  city  of  Bridgeport,  once  part  of  Stratford,  Con- 
necticut, has  recognized  the  city's  former  connection  with  old  Stratford  by  build- 
ing m  Beardsley  Park  a  reproduction  of  the  Anne  Hathaway  Cottage. 

In  1896,  Rev.  N.  Ellsworth  Cornwall,  then  Rector  of  Christ  Church  in  Stratford, 
Connecticut,  visited  the  EngHsh  Stratford  and  preached  in  Holy  Trinity  Church 
where,  in  the  chancel,  lie  the  ashes  of  the  famous  poet.  On  leaving,  he  was  pre- 
sented by  the  Vicar,  Rev.  G.  Arbuthnot,  with  a  flag  of  the  Church  of  England  and 
a  tile  from  the  chancel  of  Trinity  Church  which  was  then  being  repaired;  the  tile 
has  attached  to  it  the  following  presentation:  "This  ancient  tile  was  found  under 
the  stalls  of  Stratford-on-Avon  Church  when  the  chancel  was  restored  a  few  years 
ago.  It  is  presented  to  the  Rector  of  Stratford,  Connecticut,  N.  Ellsworth  Corn- 
wall, by  the  Vicar  of  Stratford-on-Avon,  G.  Arbuthnot,  who  hopes  that  it  may  be 
preserved  as  a  sHght  mark  of  the  unity  and  concord  which  prevail  between  the 
Episcopal  Church  of  America  and  the  Church  of  England.  XII  Sunday  after 
Trinity  MDCCCXCVI." 

Christ  Church  celebrated  its  bicentennial  in  1907  and  at  that  time  the  Rev.  G. 
Arbuthnot  sent  the  following  letter  of  greeting  to  the  Rev.  N.  Ellsworth  Cornwall:— 

"The  Vicarage, 
Stratford-on-Avon, 
May  18,  1907. 

Rev.  N.  E.  Cornwall, 
Christ  Church  Rectory, 
Stratford,  Conn.,  U.S.A. 
My  dear  Rector, 

I  am  much  obliged  to  you  for  sending  me  the  paper  with  the  most  interesting  account 
of  the  proceedings  at  Stratford  in  connection  with  its  anniversary,  and  I  write  to  extend 
to  you  and  to  your  congregation  the  fraternal  greetings  of  Stratford  in  the  Old  Country. 
I  hope  we  may  some  day  have  the  pleasure  of  seeing  you  here  again,  and  when  that  takes 
place  that  you  will  spend  a  Sunday  with  us  and  occupy  my  pulpit.  It  is  indeed  pleasant 
to  think  that  the  membership  of  the  one  Catholic  Church  can  bridge  over  so  many  miles 
of  ocean. 

With  kind  regards  and  renewed  thanks  for  your  remembrance,  I  remam. 

Yours  very  truly, 

G.  Arbuthnot." 

Some  years  later,  in  April  191 1,  at  the  annual  Shakespeare  festival  in  Stratford- 
on-Avon,  Mr.  H.  Snowden  Ward,  a  well-known  lecturer  on  Shakespeare,  carried  a 


1 82  STRATFORD,  CONNECTICUT 

greeting  to  the  Shakespeare  Club  of  the  English  town  from  a  number  of  Shakespeare 
Clubs  in  America,  including  the  one  in  Cambridge,  Massachusetts,  the  Twentieth 
Century  Club  and  the  Art  Club  in  Boston,  Massachusetts,  and  the  Stratford  Library 
in  Connecticut.  At  this  meeting  Mr.  Ward  declared  that  he  represented  Strat- 
ford, Connecticut,  the  first  of  this  name  in  America.  This  New  England  town  at 
the  same  time  sent  a  wreath  to  be  placed  on  Shakespeare's  tomb  and  also  two  greet- 
ings in  verse  written  by  residents  of  our  town.  One  of  the  greetings  was  written 
by  Arthur  Powell,  a  resident  of  the  Connecticut  Stratford,  who  was  born  in  War- 
wickshire and  who  is  a  descendant  of  the  Quincy  family,  one  of  whom,  Thomas 
Quincy,  married  Judith  Shakespeare.  He,  therefore,  can  claim  relationship  with 
Shakespeare.  The  other  greeting  was  written  by  Louise  de  Forest  Shelton  and  is 
quoted  below: — 

"A  Greeting  to  Stratford-on-Avon 

FROM  Stratford,  Connecticut,  U.S.A. 

From  this  Stratford  in  New  England 

Send  we  greeting  o'er  the  sea 

To  old  Stratford-on-the-Avon 

For  this  week's  festivity. 

As  you  honour  the  great  Poet 

We  would  send  our  homage,  too, 

From  this  small  New  England  village — 

Stratford  Shakespeare  never  knew. 

But  we  treasure  on  our  bookshelves 

Shakespeare's  spirit — heart  and  thought — 

And  we  feel  a  closer  kinship 

For  the  name  the  Settlers  brought 

From  that  England  where  our  forbears 

Lived  and  loved,  before  they  came 

To  this  strange  and  unknown  country, 

Bringing  a  familiar  name. 

As  you  sing  the  Poet's  praises. 

We  in  spirit  join  the  throng — 

From  this  Stratford  of  the  New  World 

Comes  an  echo  of  your  song. 

Kinship,  friendship,  even  greater 

Is  the  tie  that  binds  us  fast — 

Proud  are  we  to  be  the  namesake 

Born  from  out  so  great  a  Past." 

There  is  also  a  Stratford  in  New  Hampshire. 


i83 


SUDBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS 

WHEN  Sudbury  celebrated  its  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary,  the 
presiding  officer  introduced  Dr.  Brooke  Herford,  an  Englishman,  then 
minister  of  the  Arlington  Street  Church,  Boston.  "I  know,"  said  the 
presiding  officer,  "one  fact  that  interests  us  to-day,  and  that  is  that  the  name  of 
our  town  of  Sudbury  was  taken  from  the  town  of  Sudbury  in  England.  Our 
settlers  were  Englishmen;  we  are  descendants  from  these  representative  men,  and 
we  are  fortunate  to-day  in  having  with  us  an  Englishman,  a  representative  Enghsh- 
man.  .  .  .  Dr.  Brooke  Herford."  Dr.  Herford  in  his  response  emphasized  this 
fact:  "I  am  here  to  answer  for  England,  as  I  have  been  chosen  for  that  purpose. 
In  the  speeches  that  have  been  made  it  seems  to  me  that  England  has  most  of  the 
glory  for  what  has  been  done,  for  it  was  carefully  emphasized  that  they  were 
Enghshmen  who  came  to  settle  this  part  of  the  country." 

To  the  rich  lands  bordering  the  Musketahquid,  now  the  Sudbury  River,  English 
settlers  came  in  1638,  having  previously  made  plans  in  Watertown  for  forming  this 
settlement.  The  land  was  purchased  from  the  Indians,  and  the  town  incorporated 
in  1639,  being  called  Sudbury  for  the  mother  town  in  England.  Of  a  splendid 
type  of  the  historic  Puritan  were  these  pioneers  in  the  region  of  Musketahquid — 
men  of  such  sterling  qualities  as  Walter  Haynes,  Peter  Noyce,  John  Blandford, 
John  Bent  and  John  Rutter,  all  of  whom  were  passengers  in  the  ship  "Confidence" 
that  sailed  from  Southampton,  England. 

To-day  the  historic  town  of  Sudbury  is  sought  by  visitors  from  many  lands, 
and  the  old  Wayside  Inn,  one  of  the  most  delightful  places  of  interest  in  the  town, 
is  made  memorable  by  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow  in  these  words:— 

"One  autumn  night,  in  Sudbury  town, 
Across  the  meadows  bare  and  brown, 
The  windows  of  the  Wayside  Inn 
Gleamed  red  with  firelight  through  the  leaves 
Of  woodbine,  hanging  from  the  eaves 
Their  crimson  curtains  rent  and  thin. 
As  ancient  is  this  hostelry 
As  any  in  the  land  may  be. 
Built  in  the  old  Colonial  day, 
When  men  lived  in  a  grander  way, 
With  ampler  hospitality; 
A  kind  of  old  Hobgoblin  Hall, 
Now  somewhat  fallen  to  decay. 
With  weather-stains  upon  the  wall, 
And  stairways  worn,  and  crazy  doors, 
And  creaking  and  uneven  floors. 
And  chimneys  huge,  and  tiled  and  tall." 

There  is  also  a  Sudbury  in  Vermont. 

Sudbury,  England,  is  in  SufTolk  County,  and  is  principally  noted  for  its  three 


1 84 


SUDBURY,  MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Charles  F.  Emeny  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

GAINSBOROUGH'S  BIRTHPLACE   IN   SUDBURY,   ENGLAND 

historic  churches.  St.  Gregory's  Church  attracts  the  most  attention  for  it  is 
reputed  that  here  reposes  the  head  of  that  unfortunate  Simon  of  Sudbury,  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  who  was  beheaded  in  138 1  by  Wat  Tyler's  mob.  He 
had  previously  rebuilt  much  of  this  church  in  which  the  head  is  so  often  viewed  by 
the  curious  and  lovers  of  the  grewsome.  His  body  is  laid  beneath  the  altar-stone 
in  Canterbury  Cathedral.  St.  Gregory's  Church  stands  on  the  site  of  an  earlier 
Saxon  church  of  wood.  A  curious  tombstone  dated  1706,  in  St.  Anne's  Chapel 
commemorating  a  certain  Thomas  Carter,  states  that  on  the  day  on  which  he 
breathed  his  last   "a  Sudbury  camel  passed  through  the  eye  of  a  needle." 

Old  Sudbury's  greatest  man  was  the  son  of  a  clothier  and  has  come  down  in 
history  as  Thomas  Gainsborough,  the  painter.  He  was  born  there  in  1727  in 
the  house  shown  above  and  there  is  also  a  statue  of  him  in  the  town.  At 
the  back  of  this  building  was  an  orchard  from  which  fruit  was  constantly  being 
stolen  and  no  one  was  able  to  catch  the  thief.  Gainsborough  early  in  Hfe  proved 
his  deftness  with  a  pencil,  by  sketching  the  man  as  he  scaled  the  fence  to  climb  a 
pear  tree.  The  young  artist  had  risen  early  to  work  in  a  summer  house  that  ad- 
joined the  orchard  and  thus  had  a  very  good  view  of  the  thief.  His  sketch  was 
so  realistic  that  every  one  recognized  it  as  a  Sudbury  man  and  ever  after  the  picture 
was  known  as  "Tom  Peartree's  Portrait."  When  the  painter  became  famous  he 
frequently  returned  to  his  native  town,  and  many  of  his  paintings  are  called  "a 
view  near  Sudbury."  In  the  Grammar  School  are  his  initials  deep  cut  beneath  a 
caricature  of  his  master,  and  his  birthplace  still  stands  in  the  town. 


SUDBURY,   MASSACHUSETTS  185 

The  name  "Sudbury"  is  of  Saxon  origin  and  comes  from  South  Burgh. 
Records  show  that  its  charter  was  granted  during  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary.  The 
town  contains  some  beautiful  examples  of  timbered  houses  with  overhanging 
upper  stories. 

TAUNTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 

"We  cannot  name  them  in  our  song, 
But  cherish  in  our  heart, 
And  in  old  Taunton's  fair  renown 
Would  bear  a  filial  part." 

(Part  of  a  poem  written  by  Mrs.  Eleanor  S.  Deane  on  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary 
of  the  settlement  of  Taunton.) 

IN  1890  Judge  Edmund  H.  Bennett,  first  Mayor  of  Taunton,  Massachusetts, 
visited  Taunton,  England,  this  being  one  of  the  first,  if  not  the  first,  of  the 
visits  of  officials  of  one  Taunton  to  the  other.  We  give  on  the  next  page  a 
reproduction  of  a  photograph  taken  at  Dunster  Castle  showing  Judge  Bermett  on 
the  steps  of  the  Castle  with  officials  of  the  English  town  by  whom  he  was  very 
hospitably  entertained.  This  picture  now  hangs  in  the  office  of  the  City  Clerk, 
Taunton,  Massachusetts. 

On  September  13,  1900,  Mayor  William  Alfred  Wrenn  of  Taunton,  England, 
visited  our  Taunton  to  convey  the  respects  of  his  borough,  and  to  do  honour 
to  the  early  settlers  of  our  town,  who  on  March  3,  1639,  settled  here,  chang- 
ing the  name  from  Cohannet  to  Taunton,  as  they  expressed  it,  "in  honour 
and  love  to  our  dear  and  native  country."  His  visit  may  have  been  made 
in  response  to  the  cable  sent  some  months  before  by  the  Aldermen  of  our 
Taunton,  which  read  as  follows: — 

"Ordered  that  in  consideration  of  the  fact  that  the  Taunton  and  Somerset  Society  of 
London,  England,  holds  its  annual  meeting  on  May  2nd,  and  that  the  Society  represents 
the  ancestry  of  many  of  the  citizens  of  Taunton  and  vicinity,  the  greetings  and  best  wishes 
of  the  Mayor  and  Board  of  Aldermen  of  Taunton,  Mass.  be  cabled  to  that  Society." 

Mayor  Wrenn  was  enthusiastically  received  and  presented  the  following  resolutions 
as  an  expression  of  good  will  from  his  native  town: — 

"The  Council  of  the  Borough  of  Taunton,  England,  take  the  opportunity  of  the  con- 
templated visit  of  their  Mayor  to  Taunton,  Mass.  U.S.A.  of  continuing  the  friendly  inter- 
communication which  has  for  some  years  past  taken  place  between  the  two  towns,  by 
sending  friendly  greetings  and  expressing  a  hope  that  continued  and  increased  prosperity 
and  happiness  is  being  bestowed  upon  the  citizens  of  Taunton,  Mass.  More  particularly 
is  the  occasion  taken  advantage  of,  to  accept  most  gratefuUy  the  kind  and  spontaneous 
expression  of  sympathy  by  the  people  of  Taunton,  Mass.  with  England  in  the  dreadful 
war  in  So.  Africa.  The  substantial  contribution  sent  by  the  people  of  Taunton,  Mass. 
in  aid  of  the  funds  collected  in  England  for  the  widows  and  children  of  soldiers  who  have 
lost  their  lives  through  the  war,  has  awakened  feelings  of  gratitude  and  affection  not  only 
in  the  town  of  Taunton,  England,  but  amongst  the  EngUsh  people." 


i86 


TAUNTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 


from  a  photograph  in  the  ofnce  of  the  City  Clerk,  Taunton,  .\f.issachusetts  Kindness  Edwin  A.  Tetlozv,  Esq. 

JUDGE  EDMUND   H.  BENNETT,  FIRST  MAYOR  OF  TAUNTON,  MASSACHUSETTS,  ON  A 
VISIT  TO  DUNSTER  CASTLE,  NEAR  TAUNTON,  SOMERSETSHIRE,  ENGLAND, 

as  the  guest  of  the  Corporation  officials  of  that  town  in  1890.     Judge  Bennett  is  the  third  figure  from  the 

left  in  the  second  row  from  the  top. 


Our  Mayor  presented  to  the  distinguished  visitor  a  beautiful  silver  loving  cup  as 
a  token  and  memento  of  his  happy  visit  to  the  city  and  a  few  days  later  our  Com- 
mon Council  addressed  the  following  Unes  to  the  mother  town: — 

"Whereas  on  September  13,  1900,  His  Worship  William  Alfred  Wrenn  of  Taunton, 
England,  visited  us  bringing  with  him  a  message  of  friendship,  fraternity,  and  good-will 
from  the  citizens  and  governing  body  of  that  city,  which  he  presented  with  eloquent  and 
instructive  words,  now  be  it  Resolved,  that  Taunton  in  New  England  through  vote  of  its 
Council  express  its  hearty  appreciation  of  the  sentiment  contained  in  the  message,  and  the 
pleasure  that  it  has  afforded  the  municipality  to  entertain  the  distinguished  messenger. 
It  would  further  convey  to  its  English  cousins  the  sincere  hope  and  desire  that  the  future 
may  witness  a  continuation  and  greater  development  of  that  far  reaching  spirit  of  fellow- 
ship which  exists  between  the  two  cities,  binding  each  year  closer  the  ties  of  international 
duty;  and  be  it  further  Resolved,  that  a  copy  of  these  resolutions  be  suitably  engrossed 
and  forwarded  to  the  Mayor  and  governing  body  of  Taunton,  England." 

All  of  this  interesting  correspondence  is  filed  in  the  City  Hall  of  our  Taunton. 


TAUNTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


187 


Our  Taunton  was  not  settled 
directly    from    Taunton    in    the 
mother   country,    but    the    early 
comers  were  from  the  southwest 
counties  of  England  near  ancient 
Taunton   and    this   led  them   to 
select  this  name  for  their  home  in 
the  western  world.     The  earliest 
record  we  have  of  new  Taunton 
is    that    Edward    Winslow    and 
Stephen  Hopkins  walked  through 
Taunton  to  Narragansett  Bay  to 
hold  an  important  meeting  with 
the  Indian  King  Massasoit.    The 
first  real  record  of  Taunton,  how- 
ever, was  in  1637,  when  Richard 
Williams  and  a  few  Puritans  from 
Dorchester     built     some    houses 
there.      We    are    told    that    the 
idea  of   erecting   a  memorial   in 
memory   of    Williams    ha3    been 
agitated    several    times    by    the 
family.     There  is  a  bridge  over 
the  Taunton  River  which  is  called 
the  "Williams  Bridge,"  but  this 
was  not  erected  as  a  memorial. 
Not  long  after  Williams  and  his 
little  band  settled  there  they  were 
followed  by  the  families  of  Dean, 
Baylies,  Tisdale,  Morton,  Cobb, 
Crocker,    Lovering,    Hall,    Pool, 
Grossman,  Williams  and  others. 
There  are  memorials  erected  near 


^giiggg 


From  a  photograph 


Kindnfss  Miss  Edith  M.  Hodgman 
and  Edwin  A.  Tetlow,  Esq. 


MONUMENT  IN  MT.  PLEASANT   CEMETERY, 
TAUNTON,  MASSACHUSETTS, 

over  the  grave  of  Elisabeth  Pool,  who  purchased  a  large 
tract  of  land  from  the  Indians  near  here,  and  who  did  much 
to  build  up  the  town  in  the  early  days.  Her  family  came 
from  Taunton,  England. 


the  home  and  on  the  grave  of  EHsabeth  Pool,  who  bought  a  large  tract  of  land  from 
the  Indians  and  became  an  active  promoter  of  local  interests.  Miss  Pool's  fam- 
ily had  long  Uved  in  Taunton,  Somerset  County,  England.  During  the  two  hun- 
dred and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  town  there  was  a  tableau  showing  her  making 
this  purchase  from  the  Indians,  and  this  scene  is  depicted  on  the  seal  of  the  city. 

There  have  been  many  other  interesting  interchanges  of  presents  and  corre- 
spondence between  the  two  places,  the  most  important  of  which  occurred  durmg 
the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  which  took  place  in  1889.     The  Mayor 


i88 


TAUNTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  by  Montague  Cooper  from  an  old  print  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

OLD   VIEW   OF   TAUNTON,  ENGLAND 

St.  James  Church  is  on  the  right  and  St.  Mary  Magdalene's  on  the  left. 

of  old  Taunton  presented  to  the  Old  Colony  Historical  Society  in  new  Taunton  a 
stone  cherub  from  St.  Mary  Magdalene's  Church,  which  is  now  in  the  rooms  of 
the  Historical  Society;  also  about  the  same  time  Edward  Lebault  of  Taunton, 
England,  gave  to  the  Society  a  piece  of  the  altar  railing  and  pulpit  ornament  which 
was  formerly  a  part  of  this  same  church.  Invitations  were  sent  to  the  Mayor, 
Aldermen  and  Councillors  of  the  English  town  to  be  present  at  this  celebration, 
and  the  following  reply  from  the  Mayor  of  Taunton  was  received: — 

"I  beg  to  thank  you  and  your  Committee  for  your  kind  feelings  towards  us,  and  to 
assure  you  that  although  we  shall  not  be  present  at  your  celebration  our  hearts  will  be 
with  you,  and  we  trust  you  will  have  a  pleasant  and  enjoyable  time.  Our  Corporation 
has  decided  to  send  you  an  address  of  congratulation  which  is  being  prepared." 

Many  letters  were  exchanged  between  residents  of  the  two  places  on  both  sides  of 
the  water,  one  of  which  describes  in  an  interesting  way  a  visit  that  James  Russell 
Lowell  made  to  the  old  town,  on  which  occasion  he  delivered  a  lecture  on  Henry 
Fielding  of  Somersetshire,  "The  Father  of  the  EngHsh  Novel." 

After  the  celebration,  the  English  Mayor  again  wrote  and  sent  an  address  from 
his  town  which  was  framed  in  a  piece  of  oak  taken  from  St.  Mary's  Tower  which 
was   torn  down  thirty  years  before.    This  interesting   souvenir  is  now  hanging 


TAUNTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


189 


in  the  Aldermanic  Chamber  in  our 
Taunton.  A  view  of  the  old  town 
was  also  shown  attached  to  this 
address,  also  a  cut  of  the  old  castle 
which  is  now  used  as  a  museum. 
The  formal  message  received  at  the 
same  time  read  as  follows: — 

"Although  unable  to  be  present  .  .  . 
we  can  assure  you  that  the  ties  of 
kindred  and  tongue  which  bind  your 
mighty  Nation  to  the  mother  country 
are  still  further  strengthened  by  the 
remembrance  that  there  exists  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Atlantic  a  city  worthy 
of  handing  down  to  posterity  the  name 
of  Taunton  which  is  endeared  to  us  by 
the  recollection  of  its  historical  past,  the 
contemplation  of  its  prosperous  present 
and  the  promise  of  a  still  brighter 
future." 

Our  Mayor  and  Council  again  replied 
and  sent  a  souvenir  of  the  cele- 
bration, together  with  an  attractive 
picture  showing  the  ''Mayflower"  in 
Plymouth  Harbour,  a  view  of  Taun- 
ton River,  a  sketch  of  Taunton 
Green  and  a  picture  of  the  City 
Hall.  The  message  shown  in  the  ac- 
companying photograph  was  framed 
from  a  timber  that  came  from   the 


Photographed  hy  Montague  Cooper 


Kindness 
Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 


MESSAGE  SENT  BY  TAUNTON,  MASSACHU- 
SETTS, TO  TAUNTON,  ENGLAND,  IN  1889, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anni- 

torn  a  timber  that  came  trom   tne     ^l^^-^X^Z^^^^^ 

Endish   ship    "  Sparrowhawk "   which       ^^ich  was  wrecked  off  Cape  Cod  m  1626.     The  hull 

was  wrecked  off  Cape  Cod  in  .6.6,     oHWyHip  '^  "««  '"  «'-™  «•• «--'-'  ^^^ 

the   hull    of   which    vessel     is    now 

one  of  the  relics  exhibited  in  Pilgrim  Hall  in  our  Plymouth.     The  message  reads 

as  follows: — 

"The  Mayor,  Aldermen,  and  Common  Council  of 
Taunton,  in  New  England 

mIyo™  Aldermen,  and  Burgesses  of  Taunton  in  old  England. 

Greetim         We  have  been  deeply  touched  by  the  reception  ^^  y^^^",  ^^"^^  ^^^^' J^^^ 

Congra'tuladon  upon  the  celebration  of  the  .50th  Anniversary  ^^  ^he  fou^^^^^^^^ 

Citv   which  happily  arrived  on  the  very  day  of  its  occurrence.     We  assure  you  tnat  we 

fullv  rlciprocate  your  kindly  sentiments,  so  pleasantly  expressed,  and  we  fondly  che  ish 

the^eZy  of^^^^^^^  ancientf  brave,  and  loyal  Borough  with  its  ^-toric  castle    tsb^^^^^^^^ 

ful  cCrch  of  St.  Mary,  and  its  charming  river  in  that  lovely  vale  of  Taunton  Dean. 


iQo  TAUNTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 

We  wonder  not  that  our  fathers  chose  our  name  'in  honour  and  love  to  their  dear  and 
native  country,'  and  we  congratulate  ourselves  that  they  brought  with  them  from  their 
own  land  those  lofty  and  sterUng  principles  of  thought  and  action  which  have  contributed 
so  much  to  our  prosperity,  and  secured  for  us  the  manifold  blessings  we  now  enjoy. 

May  we  never  bring  discredit  on  our  ancient  name,  but  rather  lead  our  English  mother 
to  ever  feel  a  just  pride  in  her  American  daughter,  and  may  the  bonds  of  love  and  amity 
between  us,  and  between  our  respective  countries  grow  stronger  till  time  shall  be  no  more. 

Given  in  our  Council  Chamber  this  eighth 
day  of  August  a.d.  1889." 

An  interesting  account  of  the  celebration  appeared  in  one  of  the  English  news- 
papers in  Taunton,  entitled  "Taunton's  American  Daughter." 

Wilfred  Marshall  of  Taunton,  England,  is  very  familiar  with  our  town,  having 
visited  it  three  or  four  times. 

That  the  citizens  of  Taunton,  England,  still  keep  up  their  interest  in  the  New 
England  city  is  evidenced  by  a  visit  made  here  in  February,  1921,  by  Thomas  I. 
Perry,  a  local  magistrate  of  the  mother  town,  who  called  upon  Mayor  Coughlin 
and  the  other  officials  at  City  Hall.  In  discussing  the  visit  to  Taunton,  Massa- 
chusetts, made  by  former  Mayor  Wrenn  of  his  town  in  1900,  he  stated  that 
the  late  Mayor's  widow  was  the  first  woman  member  of  the  town  council  of 
Taunton,  England. 

"Ich  was  bore  at  Taunton  Deane  where  should  I  be  bore  else?"  is  the  boast  of 
the  inhabitants  of  old  Taunton  and  the  nearby  towns,  which  are  situated  in  what 
is  called  "Taunton  Dean"  or  the  "Vale  of  Taunton."  The  name  Taunton  is 
derived  from  the  river  Thone,  sometimes  called  Tone,  which  flows  through  the 
town.  The  name  is  also  sometimes  said  to  have  been  derived  from  the  Gaelic 
"Taun"  meaning  "of  the  river"  and  "town,"  contracted  into  Taunton.  The 
castle  of  Taunton  built  by  the  Bishop  of  Winchester  (see  next  page)  is  the  im- 
portant object  of  interest  in  the  town.  Near  this  site  there  was  once  a  castle 
which  was  built  in  700  by  Ina,  King  of  Wessex,  who  dwelt  there.  The  present 
castle  held  out  very  gallantly  against  the  royal  forces  in  1625  and  the  following 
lines  indicate  the  joy  of  the  town  on  being  saved : — 

"The  eleventh  of  May  was  a  joyful  day. 
When  Taunton  got  relief; 
Which  turned  our  sorrows  into  joy, 
And  eased  us  of  our  grief." 

The  full  history  of  this  castle  is  one  long  record  of  romance  and  to  the  New  Eng- 
lander  who  has  read  of  the  witchcraft  and  superstition  of  his  country,  it  may  be 
interesting  to  mention  one  of  the  objects  that  is  religiously  kept  in  this  old  building. 
It  was  believed  that  if  a  pig  died,  a  witch  had  "overlooked  it,"  to  use  an  Enghsh 
expression.  After  the  pig's  death  its  heart  was  filled  with  pins,  stuck  into  it  as  in  a 
pin-cushion,  and  it  was  then  put  in  the  chimney.  As  long  as  the  heart  remained 
there,  it  was  supposed  that  no  witch  could  have  power  over  any  other  pig  belonging 


TAUNTON,   MASSACHUSETTS 


191 


PhotOfir..plied  by   Munt.gue  C      per  Jr   m  an  old  pnnt 

TAUNTON   CASTLE,  TAUNTON,  ENGLAND 

The  castle  dates  back  to  the  eighth  century,  although  it  has  been  much  renovated. 

to  that  house.  A  very  old  example  was  found  in  an  ancient  house  and  removed  to 
this  castle,  where  it  is  still  exhibited  as  a  relic  of  the  old  days. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  mention  that  Thomas  Chaucer,  the  son  of  Geoffrey 
Chaucer,  "the  father  of  Enghsh  poetry,"  was  at  one  time  constable  of  this  castle, 
which  gives  us  an  idea  of  its  antiquity. 

There  is  a  village  near  our  Taunton  called  Britarmiaville,  so  named  because  of 
the  fact  that  britannia  ware  was  first  manufactured  in  the  United  States  in  an  old 
building  now  belonging  to  the  Reed  and  Barton  Corporation.  The  village  arose 
around  this  little  shop.  The  ware  was  so  named  because  it  originated  in  Britain 
near  Sheffield.  A  number  of  Englishmen  came  over  from  England  to  work  in  this 
trade  and  their  countrymen  have  continued  to  come  up  to  the  present  time. 


192 


TOPSFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


NOT  long  ago  when  a  visitor  from  Topsfield,  Massachusetts,  visited  the 
mother  town,  the  driver  of  the  carriage,  in  reply  to  the  question  as  to  how 
the  English  Toppesfield  got  its  name,  said:  "Well,  they  must-a-caught  it 
as  it  came  along.  Come  by  a  whirlwind  perhaps."  Another  old  character  de- 
clared it  was  probable  that  it  was  so  named  on  accoimt  of  being  the  topmost  vil- 
lage in  the  shire.  The  place  undoubtedly  derived  its  name  in  Saxon  times  from 
a  chieftain  called  Toppa,  who  owned  this  territory.  At  various  times  the  town 
has  been  called  Toppesfend,  Toppesford  and  Thopefield. 

A  visitor  to  the  mother  town  from  New  England  on  looking  over  the  church 
register  at  St.  Margaret's  in  this  Essex  village  found  the  following  names,  all  well 
known  to  our  Topsfield  and  vicinity:  Allen,  Barker,  Barnes,  Clarke,  Davison, 
Hale,  Hardy,  Palmer,  Reed,  Rice,  Smith,  Wildes  and  Wilson.  In  this  church 
register  appears  the  name  of  ''Samuel  Symonds,  Gent."  and  his  wife  Dorothy,  as 
well  as  the  records  of  baptism  of  their  ten  children  born  between  the  years  1621 
and  1633.  Samuel  Symonds  afterwards  lived  in  Ipswich  in  New  England  and  was 
a  prominent  man  and  "Assistant"  or  member  of  the  Governor's  Council.  It  was 
Symonds  who  was  responsible  for  the  change  of  name  from  New  Meadows  to 
Topsfield  in  remembrance  of  the  parish  in  old  England  where  he  had  worshipped. 


From  a  photograph 


Kindness  George  Francis  Dow,  Esq. 


TOPPESFIELD,  ENGLAND, 
from  which  place  Topsfield,  Massachusetts,  received  its  name. 


TOPSFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 


193 


F^m  a  photograph  '"""  K„u!mss  G.-orse  Francis  Do:r,  Esq. 

ST.   MARGARET'S   CHURCH,   TOPPESFIELD,  ENGLAND 

Samuel  Symonds,  the  Assistant,  who  settled  in  Ipswich  in  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  and  was  instru- 
mental in  the  naming  of  Topsfield,  was  a  communicant  in  this  church  and  here  his  children  were  baptized. 
There  are  also  a  number  of  other  names  in  the  register  of  the  Enghsh  church  that  are  well  known  in  this 
New  England  town. 


Zaccheus  Gould,  another  early  settler,  wanted  the  settlement  called  Hempstead 
because  he  came  from  Hemel  Hempstead  in  England,  but  the  Court  ruled  other- 
wise. Other  early  settlers  besides  Gould  were  William  Perkins  of  London,  WilHam 
Towne,  William  Howard,  Francis  Peabody,  John  Wilde  and  Thomas  Baker. 

Topsfield,  Massachusetts,  received  its  name  in  1650,  although  it  was  settled  as 
early  as  1639;  it  was  an  offshoot  of  Agawam,  the  early  name  of  Ipswich  and  those 
chiefly  responsible  for  its  settlement  were  two  of  the  party  of  John  Winthrop,  Jr., 
who  left  Ipswich  to  come  over  to  this  new  town. 

A  well-known  minister  in  our  Topsfield  was  Rev.  Joseph  Capen  of  witchcraft 
times,  who  married  a  daughter  of  John  Appleton  of  Ipswich  and  whose  fine  old 
seventeenth  century  manse  with  overhanging  second-story  has  been  restored  and 
now  is  owned  and  occupied  by  the  local  Historical  Society.  This  attractive  New 
England  town  has  become  the  favorite  summer  resort  of  many  prominent  people. 

The  only  interchange  which  has  taken  place  between  the  daughter  and  mother 
towns  occurred  in  August,  1900,  at  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the 


194  TOPSFIELD,   MASSACHUSETTS 

incorporation  of  Topsfield.  At  this  time  a  cable  of  congratulations  from  Toppes- 
field,  England,  was  read  at  the  meeting  and  a  suitable  reply  flashed  back  to  the 
English  town,  while  the  school-children  sang  "To  thee,  O  Country." 

Mr.  George  Francis  Dow  in  his  address  at  this  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anni- 
versary relates  an  amusing  story  concerning  "Goodman"  Neland,  who  had 
built  his  house  across  the  boundary  line  between  Topsfield  and  Ipswich.  For 
years  the  constables  called  to  collect  taxes  and  always  found  him  in  the  other  part 
of.  the  house  and  therefore,  of  course,  in  the  other  town.  Finally  the  Topsfield 
constable  on  one  of  his  visits  climbed  into  the  pig-pen  and  secured  a  good  fat  pig, 
the  sale  of  which  enabled  him  to  recover  the  necessary  taxes. 

Topsfield,  Maine,  a  small  township  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  was  chris- 
tened in  honour  of  Topsfield,  Massachusetts,  by  Nehemiah  Kneeland  who  moved 
to  Maine  from  the  Massachusetts  town. 


WALTHAM,  MASSACHUSETTS 

ON  January  i6,  1888,  there  was  held  in  the  Music  Hall  in  Waltham  the 
celebration  of  the  one  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the  founding 
of  the  town,  on  which  occasion  the  residents  paid  their  homage  to  the 
spirit  of  the  past  by  flying  in  the  building  many  American  and  British  flags  draped 
together,  and  by  surmounting  one  group  of  banners  with  a  shield  bearing  the  arms 
and  motto  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  There  have  been  no  official  visits  between  the 
two  Walthams,  though  many  people  from  our  city  have  journeyed  to  Waltham 
Abbey,  from  which  our  city  derived  its  name.  Although  at  the  present  time  there 
is  little  in  the  appearance  of  the  prosperous  Massachusetts  city  that  would  recall 
the  historic  old  English  town,  it  is  probable  that  at  the  time  of  the  incorporation 
of  our  Waltham  in  1738,  there  was  some  similarity  between  the  "forest  home"  on 
the  Charles  River  and  that  on  the  river  Lea.  The  name  Waltham  is  supposed 
to  be  derived  from  the  Saxon  "Wealdham,"  meaning  a  "home  in  the  forest,"  or 
"wild,"  and  to  this  day  forests  cover  probably  more  than  half  of  the  territory  of 
the  New  England  city.  Certainly  visions  of  "Harold's  town "  with  the  Lea  winding 
in  and  out  among  the  fertile  meadows  must  have  been  in  the  minds  of  Wilham 
Brown,  Samuel  Livermore,  Daniel  Benjamin  and  other  dwellers  in  the  western 
precinct  of  Watertown,  Massachusetts,  when,  their  petition  to  have  their  precinct 
"erected  into  a  separate  and  distinct  township"  having  been  granted,  they  con- 
ferred upon  the  newly  made  town  the  name  of  Waltham.  As  one  historian  has 
suggested,  it  must  have  been  peculiarly  gratifying  to  these  early  settlers  "thus  to 
preserve  ever  present  amid  new  associations  and  surroundings  the  recollections  of 
their  old  homes  across  the  sea."  The  first  actual  settler  within  the  town  limits  is 
supposed  to  have  been  John  Page  who  in  1643  had  a  house  near  the  present  Water- 


WALTHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS  i95 

town  line;  Samuel  Bigelow  had  a  house  on  the  western  part  of  the  Great  Country 
Road  before  1686,  while  AUen  Flagg  and  Jonathan  Sanderson  built  at  Piety  Corner 
about  1689.  Waltham  has  furnished  two  Massachusetts  Governors,  Christopher 
Gore,  who  was  at  one  time  United  States  Senator  and  also  special  Minister  to  Eng- 
land, and  Nathaniel  P.  Banks. 

The  EngUsh  village  is  located  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river  Lea,  about  twelve 
miles  northeast  of  London,  in  the  county  of  Essex,  to  which  locaUty  also  belongs 
Nasing,  the  birthplace  of  the  Rev.  John  Eliot,  famous  for  his  religious  ministrations 
to  the  'Indians  and  the  early  settlers  of  New  England.  No  small  part  of  John 
Eliot's  early  work  was  among  the  Indians  in  the  vicinity  of  Watertown  and  Wal- 
tham, and  the  fact  that  Waltham  Abbey  was  near  Nasing  may  have  suggested  to 
the  elrly  settlers  this  name  for  the  American  town.  The  exact  place  where  Ehot 
preached  was  on  the  shore  of  a  large  sheet  of  water  which  was  first  called  the  "  Great 
Pond  in  the  Woods,"  and  the  Indian  tribe  to  which  he  preached  continued  on  its 
shores  until  the  year  1676. 

To  those  familiar  with  its  history,  both  authentic  and  legendary,  the  name  of 
old  Waltham  will  ever  be  tinged  with  romance.  Thither  came  Tovi  the  Proud, 
standard-bearer  to  Canute  the  Dane,  King  of  England,  early  in  the  eleventh  century, 
and  built  for  himself  in  the  forest  a  hunting  seat,  near  which  he  established  a  village 
of  "three  score  and  six  dwellers."  Here  also  he  founded,  about  1020  a.d.,  the 
Church  of  the  Holy  Cross  and  thus  it  came  about  that  the  town  was  also  called  at 
one  time  Waltham  Holy  Cross.  Later  Waltham  came  into  the  possession  of  Earl 
Harold,  who,  out  of  gratitude  for  his  wonderful  cure  by  the  "holy  cross,"  erected 
in  1059  a  monastery  upon  the  site  of  Tovi's  church.  After  Harold  was  killed  in 
1066  in  the  famous  battle  of  Hastings  he  was  buried  in  this  monastery  which, 
as  stated  below,  came  to  be  known  later  as  Waltham  Abbey.  In  1177,  Harold's 
college  was  dissolved  and  an  Augustinian  Priory  was  founded  by  Henry  II,  which 
in  1184  became  Waltham  Abbey.  The  history  of  this  edifice  is,  as  old  Thomas 
Fuller  says,  "the  history  of  the  Church  of  England."  To  this  Abbey  came,  for 
various  reasons,  many  of  the  English  royalty,  from  the  time  of  Harold,  its  founder, 
to  the  days  of  Charles  11. 

One  of  the  most  picturesque  corners  of  the  old  town  is  "Romeland,"  an  open 
square  of  quaint,  high-gabled  and  stuccoed  red  brick  houses,  while  in  another  part, 
spanning  the  Corn  Mill  stream,  is  a  remnant  of  very  early  architecture  known  as 
Harold's  Bridge.  In  Waltham  also  is  the  house  of  Master  Cressy,  in  which  Cran- 
mer,  Fox  and  Gardner  in  1533  discussed  the  question  of  the  separation  of  Henry 
.-  Vlli  from  Catherine  of  Aragon.  Here  in  the  forests  the  Stuarts  did  a  great  deal  of 
hunting  and  near  Waltham  still  can  be  seen  the  house  where  it  is  said  that  James  I, 
during  one  of  his  hunts,  using  his  sword  for  a  carving-knife,  patted  a  joint  of 
beef  and  called  it  "Sir  Loin."  Beautiful  Epping Forest,  the  playground  of  thousands 
of  Londoners  on  bank  holidays,  is  near  Waltham. 


WALTHAM,   MASSACHUSETTS  197 

There  is  one  historic  feature  in  the  old  Enghsh  town  of  Waltham  which  visi- 
tors will  always  be  interested  in,  and  that  is  old  Temple  Bar  which  for  several 
centuries  stood  at  the  west  end  of  Fleet  Street  and  was  one  of  the  entrances  into 
the  real  old  city  of  London.  In  the  year  1878  Temple  Bar  was  entirely  removed 
and  was  subsequently  rebuilt  at  the  entrance  to  Theobald's  Park,  Waltham. 
The  first  mention  of  the  Bar  is  in  1361,  and  a  curious  custom  was  from  time 
immemorial  observed  at  this  point.  Before  the  Sovereign  could  enter  the  city 
proper  his  carriage  was  halted  while  the  Lord  Mayor  presented  his  sword  of 
office  to  the  monarch,  who  after  receiving  the  sword  returned  it  to  the  Mayor, 
and  until  this  ceremony  had  been  gone  through  the  King  was  not  allowed  to 
enter  the  city.  A  huge  stone  griffin,  or  dragon,  now  occupies  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Temple  Bar. 

In  1 8 13,  the  works  of  the  Boston  INIanufacturing  Company  were  estabHshed  in 
our  Waltham,  and  not  only  for  the  manufacturing  of  cotton  goods  did  the  city 
become  noted,  but  also  for  the  watches  made  at  the  famous  Waltham  Watch 
factory,  supposed  to  be  the  largest  works  of  its  kind  in  existence.  The  Gore  and 
Lyman  estates,  the  most  attractive  probably  of  the  time,  carry  out  the  meaning  of 
the  word  Waltham,  "a  home  in  a  forest,"  on  account  of  their  beautiful  trees.  The 
Lyman  place  was  originally  granted  to  William  Paine,  being  later  purchased  by  John 
Livermore,  who  came  to  this  country  in  1634  and  who  was  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant men  of  the  town,  besides  being  the  progenitor  of  most  of  the  Livermores  in 
this  country.  The  descendants  of  John  Livermore  owned  this  place  until  1780, 
when  it  was  sold  to  Jonas  Dix.  In  1793  it  came  into  the  possession  of  Theodore 
Lyman,  whose  descendants  still  occupy  the  old  residence.  Isaac  Stearns,  a  grand- 
son of  one  of  the  early  pioneers,  and  William  Wellington  also  owned  much  land  in 
the  early  days  of  the  town.  We  read  of  many  Fourth  of  July  celebrations  held  on 
Stearns's  wood-lot  and  in  WelHngton's  Grove,  which  were  both  usually  full  of 
partridges  and  quail. 

There  is  also  a  Waltham  in  Maine  and  one  in  Vermont. 

WARWICK,  MASSACHUSETTS,  AND  WARWICK,  RHODE   ISLAND 

SAMUEL  GORTON,  who  was  born  in  Gorton,  England,  and  who  probably 
named  Portsmouth,  Rhode  Island,  was  the  founder  of  the  Rhode  Island 
Warwick  in  1642,  those  associated  with  him  being  Randall  Holden  and  John 
Greene,  both  of  Salisbury,  England,  and  Francis  Weston.  They  were  soon  driven 
out  of  their  settlement  by  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  troops,  but  after  obtain- 
ing royal  sanction  for  their  settlement  returned  to  it.  The  final  success  of  Gorton 
and  his  few  followers  against  the  overwhelming  number  of  their  enemies,  the  Mas- 
sachusetts Bay  colonists,  greatly  impressed  the  Indians,  as  described  by  Gorton  in 
these  words: — 


198  WARWICK,   MASSACHUSETTS   and  RHODE   IS^LAND 


Photographed  by  F.  Frith  &"  Co.,  Surrey,  England  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

WARWICK   CASTLE,   WAR,WICKSHIRE,   ENGLAND 

"The  Indians  called  the  English  in  their  tongue  Wattaconoges  (meaning  those 
who  wear  clothes  or  coat  men).  They  now  called  us  Gortonoges,  and  being  that 
they  had  heard  of  a  great  war  to  be  in  Old  England,  they  presently  framed  unto 
them  a  cause  of  our  deliverance,  imagining  that  there  were  two  kinds  of  people  in 
Old  England,  the  one  called  by  the  name  of  Enghshmen  and  the  other  Gortonoges; 
and  concluded  that  the  Gortonoges  were  a  mightier  people  than  the  English  .  .  . 
and  therefore  .  .  .  thought  it  not  safe  to  take  away  our  lives  because  however  few 
there  were  of  us  in  New  England  in  comparison  with  those  who  came  out  against 
us,  yet  that  great  people  in  Old  England  would  come  over  and  put  them  to  death 
if  they  should  take  away  our  lives."  This  town  was  named  for  Robert,  Earl  of 
Warwick,  Lord  High  Admiral,  rather  than  for  the  leading  town  of  Warwickshire, 
known  as  the  "Heart  of  England."  We  have,  nevertheless,  included  Warwick  on 
account  of  the  prominence  of  the  Enghsh  town  and  its  attractiveness  to  Americans 
and  Englishmen.  The  Earl  of  Warwick  was  Governor-in-Chief  of  Foreign  Plan- 
tations and  chairman  of  the  Commission  that  granted  the  charter  to  the  Rhode 
Island  town  and  affirmed  Gorton's  right  to  Shawomet.  It  was  out  of  gratitude  to 
him  that  the  old  name  of  Shawomet  was  changed  to  Warwick  in  the  year  1647. 
Thousands  of  Americans  each  year  visit  the  old  residential  seat  of  the  Earls  of 
Warwick,  Warwick  Castle,  now  leased  to  Henry  W.  Marsh,  Esq.,  of  New  York,  of 


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200  WARWICK,   MASSACHUSETTS   and  RHODE   ISLAND 

the  Harvard  Class  of  '85,  who  was  Assistant  Manager  of  the  Harvard  Surgical  Unit 
which  did  such  splendid  work  during  the  war  that  it  was  commended  in  a  letter 
written  by  King  George  V.  The  Unit  began  service  on  July  17,  1915,  at  the  22nd 
General  Hospital  in  France,  where  it  "carried  on"  till  the  end  of  the  war,  caring 
for  a  tenth  of  the  British  casualties  on  the  Western  Front.  On  its  return  to 
Boston,  the  weather-stained  Stars  and  Stripes  and  the  Union  Jack  which  had 
flown  over  the  hospital  during  the  years  of  strife  were  presented  at  a  mass  meeting 
at  the  Harvard  Club  of  Boston  to  President  Lowell,  who  turned  them  over  to  the 
Harvard  Medical  School.  The  members  of  this  Unit  were  entertained  at  the  Castle 
on  their  way  through  England  and  while  there  had  an  opportunity  to  see  the  wonder- 
ful paintings  by  Van  Dyck,  Velasquez,  Reynolds,  Rubens,  Holbein  and  others, 
also  the  peacocks  for  which  the  Castle  has  long  been  famous,  and  the  attractive 
grounds.  One  of  the  curios  of  the  Castle  is  a  huge  bowl  known  as  Guy's  Punch- 
bowl, so  named  after  the  celebrated  mythical  personage  "Guy  of  Warwick."  This 
curiosity  was  made  for  Sir  John  Talbot,  and  an  old  couplet  makes  reference  to  him 
and  his  odd  bowl  in  these  words:— 

"There's  nothing  left  of  Talbot's  fame 
But  Talbot's  Pot  and  Talbot's  Lane." 

The  English  borough  is  situated  near  the  center  of  the  shire,  on  a  hill  encircled 
by  a  long  curve  of  the  Avon  and  within  sight  of  the  Castle  grounds  where  the  well- 
known  Warwickshire  hounds  have  often  hunted  their  fox.  Nearby  is  Leamington, 
a  score  of  years  ago  one  of  the  great  fox-hunting  centers  of  England.  Henry  James 
was  very  fond  of  Warwickshire,  in  fact  it  was  a  place  to  which  the  intellectuals  of 
both  hemispheres  journeyed,  including  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Nathaniel  Hawthorne, 
who  wrote  of  Warwick  in  "Our  Old  Home,"  Thackeray,  Dickens  and  George  Eliot. 

Near  the  Castle  is  St.  Mary's  Church,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  choir  appear 
recumbent  figures  representing  the  first  Thomas  Beauchamp,  Earl  of  Warwick,  and 
his  second  wife,  who  both  died  in  1369.  This  Thomas  Beauchamp  was  one  of 
the  ancestors  of  Randall  Holden's  wife.  The  great  feature  of  this  church  is 
Beauchamp  Chapel  and  in  it  Hes  the  body  of  Richard  Beauchamp,  Earl  of  War- 
wick, who  died  in  1439,  and  Robert  Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester,  the  favorite  of 
Queen  Elizabeth.  Dudley  founded  the  Leicester  Hospital  in  Warwick.  The 
tower  of  St.  Mary's  Church  contains  a  peal  of  ten  bells  which  plays  a  tune  every 
three  hours,  but  a  different  tune  every  day  of  the  week,  which  serves  to  remind 
the  townspeople  not  only  of  the  hour  but  of  the  day.  A  mile  north  of  Warwick  on 
the  banks  of  the  Avon  is  the  famous  Guy's  Cliff,  in  far-off  ages  the  retreat  of  the 
pilgrim  Sir  Guy.  The  present  mansion  of  Guy's  Cliff,  which  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  eighteenth  century,  is  partially  hewn  out  of  soKd  rock. 

The  English  Warwick  held  a  great  pageant  during  the  week  of  July  4,  1906,  on 
the  Castle  grounds  on  the  occasion  of  the  one  thousandth  anniversary  of  Queen 


WARWICK,  MASSACHUSETTS  and  RHODE  ISLAND  201 


Photographed  by  F.  Frith  &•  Co.,  Surrey,  England  'Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robcrlson ,  Esq. 

LEICESTER  HOSPITAL,  WARWICK,    ENGLAND 

Ethelfreda's  conquest  of  Mercia.  On  that  day,  the  Stars  and  Stripes  were  dis- 
played on  the  grandstand,  and  the  namesakes  of  Warwick  in  this  country,  which 
doubtless  included  the  Warwicks  of  New  England,  were  represented  on  this  occasion. 
This  group  was  photographed,  but  unfortunately  the  plate  was  lost.  ^ 

The  Massachusetts  Warwick,  which  is  near  Worcester,  has  sometimes  been 
called  the  "Switzerland  of  America."  It  was  one  of  the  four  grants  made  by  the 
General  Court  in  1735  for  his  ''Majestie's  Province  in  the  Massachusetts  Bay." 
Samuel  Newall  and  others  signed  the  first  petition  for  the  town,  which  was  called 
the  "plantation  of  Roxbury,"  or  "Gardner's  Canada,"  so  called  because  the  pref- 
erence of  sites  was  given  to  those  who  were  descendants  of  the  officers  and  soldiers 
who  served  in  the  expedition  to  Canada  in  1690.  Warwick  was  incorporated  in 
1763  and  was  named  either  for  Warwick  or  for  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick. 


203 


WATERTOWN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

THE  family  of  Sir  Richard  Saltonstall,  who  sailed  from  Yarmouth,  England, 
in  the  ship  "Arbella,"  and  who  founded  our  Watertown,  came  from  the 
small  villages  of  Nether  and  Over  Saltonstall,  which  are  a  part  of  Halifax, 
in  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire.  Mr.  Richard  M.  Saltonstall,  who  has  edited  an 
interesting  book,  written  by  Hon.  Leverett  Saltonstall,  describing  Sir  Richard  Salton- 
stall's  ancestry  and  descendants,  a  short  time  ago  visited  the  two  \dllages  in  England 
which  are  named  for  his  family  and  when  he  arrived  there  the  people  expressed  their 
fear  that  one  of  the  family  had  come  back  to  claim  the  land.  These  two  hamlets 
(of  which  we  give  pictures,  on  this  page  and  the  next)  are  very  small  and  almost 
deserted,  yet  they  form  a  most  interesting  link  between  England  and  America. 
Back  of  these  old  towns  is  Saltonstall  Moor,  which  is  well  known  to  sportsmen. 

The  Enghsh  family  of  Saltonstall  can  be  traced  back  from  Thomas  de  Salton- 
stall to  Frederick  II,  Earl  of  Guilford,  the  first  record  we  have  beginning  with  the 
former.  In  1597,  a  Sir  Richard  Saltonstall  was  Lord  Mayor  of  London.  We  have 
included  a  cut  of  the  Church  of  St.  John  the  Baptist  in  Halifax,  where  from  the  year 


From  ^'Ancestry  &"  Descendants  of  Sir  Richard  Saltonstall,"  Riverside  Press,  1897  Kindness  R.  M.  Saltonstall,  Esq. 

NETHER   SALTONSTALL,  NEAR  HALIFAX,  ENGLAND 

Here  lived  the  Saltonstall  family  so  well  knovra  in  this  country,  and  early  settlers  in  Watertown,  Haverhill 

and  Ipswich,  Massachusetts. 


204 


WATERTOWN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


From  "Ancestry  Cs°  Descendanu  of  Sir  Rich  rd  S  It      nil     R      '  i>c  Pre<:s,  iSpy  Kindness  R.  M.  Saltan  tall,  Erg. 

THE   OLD    CHAPEL,  OVER  SALTONSTALL,  NEAR  HALIFAX,  ENGLAND 

1539  have  been  recorded  forty-four  marriages  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  baptisms 
in  the  Saltonstall  family. 

The  records  in  this  country  show  that  "Sir  Richard  Saltonstall,  Rev.  George 
Phillips,  and  a  goodly  number  of  planters  went  up  the  Charles  River  four  miles  to 
a  place  well  watered"  and  settled  their  plantation  just  below  the  place  where  Mt. 
Auburn  is  now  situated  and  very  near  the  home  of  the  late  James  Russell  Lowell. 
This  territory,  the  fourth  settlement  in  the  Colony,  was  first  called  "Sir  Richard 
Saltonstall's  Plantation,"  but  was  later  named  Watertown  by  the  Court,  either  on  ac- 
count of  its  natural  features  or,  more  probably,  from  a  place  by  the  name  of  Waterton 
in  England.  Saltonstall  was  the  first  subscriber  to  the  church  covenant  of  Water- 
town  and  he  was  also  an  original  patentee  of  Connecticut  with  Lord  Saye  and  Sele, 
Lord  Brooke  and  others.  Saltonstall  remained  in  Watertown  only  a  short  time,  but 
was  always  interested  in  the  Colony,  his  two  sons  remaining  there  after  he  had  left. 
Saltonstall  Square  in  Watertown  was  named  after  him  in  remembrance  of  all  he  did 
for  the  settlement  in  its  first  days.  President  Quincy  said  of  him  that  after  Harvard 
and  Winthrop  he  was  the  next  greatest  benefactor  of  Harvard  College.  The  Sal- 
tonstall family  had  much  to  do  with  the  Ipswich  settlement  and  for  five  generations 
lived  in  and  helped  Haverhill. 

There  is  also  a  Watertown  in  Connecticut. 


205 


T 


WEYMOUTH,   MASSACHUSETTS 

''Cohasset  for  beauty, 
Hingham  for  pride, 
If  not  for  its  herring,  ^ 
Weymouth  had  died." 

HE  chief  feature  of  interest  between  tlie  two  Weymouths  is  the  visit  of 
I      Tud^e  Louis  A.  Cook  to  old  Weymouth  in  19x4.  to  attend  the  unveihng  of 
1     he  memorial  that  was  placed  there  to  John  Endicott  of  Dorchester,  Eng- 
,     H    !nd  Sard  Clark    near  the  wharf  from  which  they  sailed,  the  former  to 
:f'     Amfr  ca  to  b  come  Governor  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony,  and  the 
at?a    mo    knolSot 

....       r^  TTT.   tVif. -npTPP  of  Amiens  was  discussed  here,   ana  wiuuu  n-s  v 

of  Kmg  George  III,  f^  P^^"  "/^  ,      „„,  „f  Nelson's  officers,  just  before  the 
the  Kmg  -'d  "1  to  Capmn  H-dy  ^^^  ^^^  ^^^^.^^^  ^^^ 

battle  of  Trafalgar.     After  mncneou  1  Endicott 

Chamberlain  and  all  the  other  guests  on  the  site  of  the  jetty  f ™m  w 

hi:  sTtrd     H^lT/r ':  h^ed  the  account  was  not  closed  and  that  bet  e 

on  this  hundredth  anniversary  of  peaceful  friendship  ™«h^  j^„„ 

national  anthems  of  the  two  countries.     The  memorial       J 


WEYMOUTH,   MASSACHUSETTS 


207 


i5r»- 


^-•w" 


S:-^_OC 


.^  "A-N  /■-VZ.    j'.-C 


^''^r     ^c:HKif:N3:ccTT 


Yhotlgr'aphed  bTEd'-cal^' H .  Sr.vard  Kindness  Ian  FoTbe7-RobeTtson,  Esq 


BRONZE   MEDALLION   PLACED   ON   THE 
MEMORIAL   IN   WEYMOUTH,  ENGLAND, 

in  honour  of  Richard  Clark  and  John  Endicott. 


placed  on  the  stone  column  which 
is  shown  in  the  accompanying 
picture,  and  the  medalhon, 
which  is  also  pictured  and  which 
is  attached  to  the  monument, 
bears  the  following  inscription: — 

In  Memory  of 
RICHARD    CLARK 

Captain  and  Pilot  of 

Weymouth,  who  in  1583 

sailed  thence  to  join 

Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert's 

Voyage  of  discovery  to 

Newfoundland,  and  of 

JOHN  ENDICOTT 

who  on  June  20,  1628, 

set  forth  from  Weymouth  in 

the  ship  "Abigail"  on  the 

expedition  which  led  to 

the  establishment  of  the 

plantation  at  Salem, 

Massachusetts. 

Erected  by  PubUc 

Subscription  1914- 

Weymouth  in  this  country  was  the  lirst  permanent  settlement  in  Boston  Har- 
bour and  is  the  second  oldest  town  in  Massachusetts  antedating  Boston  by  at  le^^ 
six  years  and,  next  to  Plymouth,  is  the  oldest  colony  m  the  State.    ^^ ^^f'° 
oto  "ferred'to  as  the  "Alma  Mater  of  BostonMor  '^e  reason  that  ^^Uhm 
Blackstone    the  first  settler  in  Boston,  came  from  Weymouth.    The  earliest  pio 
n  e  s  n  oui  Weymouth  did  not  come  from  the  town  of  the  same  name  m  England 
W  manv  did  come  here  the  year  after  the  first  settlement  of  the  town  m  X6.3  by 
RobrrGo'  es   s":  o    Sir  Fe'rdinando  Gorges.    At  this  time  our  Weymouth  was 
kno^n  a?Wessagusset.    Some  years  later  Rev.  Mr.  Hall,  who  was  born  m  Somer- 
setsli^e  sailed  from  Weymouth  for  this  country,  and  it  is  mentioned  m  old  Wey- 
r^outh  that  under  date  of  March  30,  1635,  "about  one  hundred  people  are  recorded 
Tbound  here  '■  meaning  America.    Abigail  (Smith)  Adams  was  one  of  the  origma 
"ttlers  of  ou  Weymouth  and  among  other  eariy  comers  we  can  mention  the  nam 
of  Bursley  Jeffries  and  probably  Ludden  as  having  come  over  with  Gorges.     Some 

Weymouth. 


WEYMOUTH,   MASSACHUSETTS  209 

The  town  for  which  our  Weymouth  is  named  has  often  been  called  the  English 
Naples.  It  is  situated  in  the  county  of  Dorset  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  Wey, 
from  which  it  gets  its  name,  which  was  originally  derived  from  "Waeye,"  meaning 
"  water  "  and  "mud,"  being  the  Saxon  word  for  "mouth  of  the  river."  The  town  has 
a  fine  harbour  and  has  always  been  a  commercial  port;  it  is  now  also  a  great  water- 
ing-place. Into  this  attractive  port  the  Roman  Navy  often  found  its  way  and 
years  later  two  ships  of  the  Spanish  Armada  were  brought  here  as  prizes.  The 
earliest  history  of  the  town  dates  back  to  938  a.d.  in  the  time  of  King  Athelstan, 
the  next  mention  of  it  in  history  being  in  the  Saxon  charter  of  King  Ethelred.  One 
interesting  incident  occurred  at  the  time  King  Philip  of  Spain  was  driven  into  the 
harbour  by  a  hurricane.  John  Russell,  of  Berwick  Hovse,  knew  Spanish  so 
well  that  he  was  chosen  to  act  as  interpreter  for  the  royal  party.  King  Henry  was 
informed  of  the  unexpected  arrival  of  the  Spanish  King  and  sent  him  an  invitation 
to  visit  him  in  London.  Russell  accompam'ed  the  visitor  and  made  such  a  favor- 
able impression  on  King  Philip  that  the  latter  recommended  him  especially  to  the 
English  King.  It  happened  later  that  Russell  became  a  favorite  with  King 
Henry's  son,  who  created  him  Duke  of  Bedford,  a  name  also  closely  associated 
with  our  New  Bedford. 


A 


WINCHESTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 

TEMPORARY  memorial  to  the  American  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Great 
War  has  been  placed  in  the  south  aisle  of  the  Cathedral  in  Winchester, 
England,  and  the  inscription  reads  as  follows: — 

This  window  and  these  panels  have  been  reserved  by  the  Dean  and 
Chapter  for  the  dedication  of  a  perpetual  memorial  to  be  erected  by  the 
British  Nation  to  those  GALLANT  AMERICANS  who  have  given'their 
lives  for  the  cause  of  freedom  in  the  Great  War  1914-191  . 

A  more  permanent  memorial  in  the  form  of  a  window  is  now  being  built  in  the 
south  aisle  of  the  Cathedral.  The  ancient  city  of  Winchester  is  a  fitting  place  for 
such  a  memorial  because  of  the  fact  that  one  hundred  thousand  troops  of  the 
American  Expeditionary  Forces  came  to  the  city  from  the  nearby  port  of  South- 
ampton where  they  disembarked.  It  was  at  Winchester,  too,  that  one  of  the 
largest  American  rest  camps  was  established,  and  an  added  inducement  that 
undoubtedly  appealed  to  the  British  authorities  in  the  selection  of  this  site  for  a 
memorial  was  the  fact  that  five  hundred  and  fifty-three  of  our  brave  soldiers,  who 
died  of  influenza,  lie  buried  in  the  military  cemetery  on  Morn  Hill  in  Winchester. 
A  further  appropriateness  lies  in  the  fact  that  Winchester  was  at  one  time  the 
ancient  capital  of  England  and  was  the  home  of  so  many  kings  that  it  has  often 
been  called  "Royal  Winchester."  Henry  I  here  celebrated  his  marriage  to  Matilda 
of  Scotland  and  their  son,  William,  was  born  in  this  ancient  city;  Henry  III  was 


2IO 


WINCHESTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 


^» 


my^ 


;  RESERVI3D-py  11 II-  DrAN-^-CHAn  l;1<-K)K-THE 
;  DRDICATION-OF-A  pr;Ri  fJlIM  ->\&'^R1ALT0 
: BKERECTED BN^Ti iLPlvTlSi ! NAI'IONID^ i()SE 

GMIANT  /\A\rR!C\NS 

WHOl  lAVtCiiVEN  TMEIP.-L1\  LSFORTHFCM  iSl- 
:  GF-REFI)OAVIN-THE  GREy\T-\^.'\R-19l4- 1^1 


P-Myjsi 


From  a  photograph 


Kivdness  Major  Evelyn  Wrench  and  Henry 
G.  Lord,  Esq. 


also  born  here;  Henry  IV  was 
married  here;  Henry  V  received 
here  the  Ambassador  of  Charles  of 
France;  Henry  VI  often  visited 
here;  Henry  VII  journeyed  here 
with  his  queen  in  order  that  his 
child  should  be  born  in  England's 
old  capital,  and  Henry  VIII  spent 
a  week  here  in  1522  and  entertained 
the  Emperor  Charles  V  of  Austria. 
King  Edward  III  made  Winches- 
ter one  of  his  ten  staple  towns  for 
wool  and  leather,  with  the  idea  of 
reviving  its  prestige.  Here  also 
Queen  Mary  entertained  Phihp, 
Prince  of  Spain,  previous  to  their 
marriage;  King  James  I  was  the 
last  king  to  reside  in  the  castle. 
It  was  during  the  reign  of  Henry 
III  that  the  city  as  a  governing 
center  began  to  decline  in  impor- 
tance, the  chief  reason  being  that 
the  treasury  was  transferred  to 
London.  Outside  the  west  gate  of  the  city  was  situated  the  King's  hawk-house, 
in  which  falconers  kept  the  birds  in  the  days  when  falconry  was  so  much  indulged 
in.  Winchester  was  the  home  of  Alfred  the  Great,  and  here  he  ruled  wisely  and 
well  for  eighteen  years;  it  was  here  that  he  wrote  his  Saxon  Chronicles.  It  was 
also  in  Winchester  that  the  original  Domesday  Book  was  compiled  and  here  it 
was  kept  as  long  as  the  city  was  the  capital  of  the  kingdom.  It  may  be  also 
claimed  that  Winchester  was  the  cradle  of  the  British  Empire,  for  it  was  here 
that  King  Alfred  laid  the  foundations  of  the  British  Navy.  It  is  also  interesting 
to  mention  that  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was  tried  and  imprisoned  in  Winchester  before 
his  execution  in  London. 

The  Cathedral,  of  course,  is  the  center  of  interest  to  visitors,  and  it  will  be  re- 
membered that  Emerson  thought  it  the  most  beautiful  in  England  with  the  excep- 
tion of  York  Minster.  An  attraction  in  the  city  is  the  house  where  Jane  Austen 
lived  and  died,  her  body  being  buried  in  the  Cathedral.  New  Englanders  will 
be  interested  to  know  that  the  renowned  Izaak  Walton  was  also  buried  there. 
Bishop  Lawrence  of  our  Boston  preached  officially  in  Winchester  Cathedral  in 
the  year  1920. 

Like  all  mediaeval  cities,  Winchester  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  which  was  origi- 


TEMPORARY     MEMORIAL    PLACED     IN     WIN- 
CHESTER  CATHEDRAL,   WINCHESTER, 
ENGLAND, 

to  the  memory  of  the  Americans  who  lost  their  lives  in  the 
Great  War. 


WINCHESTER,  MASSACHUSETTS 


211 

1 


From  a  photograph  Kindness  Mrs.  Mary  Fifield  King 

WINCHESTER  CATHEDRAL,  WINCHESTER,   ENGLAND, 

in  which  has  recently  been  placed  by  the  British  Nation  a  memorial  to  the  Americans  who  gave  their  lives 
in  the  Great  War.  Winchester  was  the  capital  of  England  under  Alfred  the  Great  (849  a.d.).  The  cathe- 
dral, built  in  the  eleventh  century,  is  the  chief  attraction  in  this  ancient  city. 

nally  Roman,  but  practically  nothing  of  this  remains  intact.  One  of  the  gates 
was  changed  to  its  present  aspect  by  the  Normans.  It  may  also  be  mentioned 
that  the  original  municipal  flag  of  the  English  city  was  presented  to  its  American 
namesake  in  Virginia  during  the  latter  part  of  191 9. 

Our  New  England  Winchester  has  taken  an  interest  in  the  city  of  the  same  name 
in  England  and  the  PubHc  Library  of  our  town  has  several  times  sent  reports  and 
memoranda  regarding  its  war  activities,  a  number  of  letters  in  reply  having  been 
received  describing  the  large  American  War  Camp  near  the  English  city. 

Edward  Converse,  a  staunch  old  Puritan,  who  came  over  in  Winthrop's  colony, 
was  the  first  settler  of  the  territory  now  called  Winchester,  Massachusetts,  having 
built  and  occupied  the  first  house  here  in  1640.  This  humble  dwelling  stood  on 
the  site  which  many  generations  later  was  occupied  by  the  Thompson  estate,  next 
to  the  Post-ofiice.  A  "corne  mill,"  the  first  business  establishment  in  Winchester, 
was  also  built  by  this  pioneer.  This  section  of  the  country,  considered  by  the 
dwellers  along  the  seacoast  as  a  "remote  land,"  was  at  that  time  a  wild,  unsettled 
part  of  Charlestown,  called  Waterfield,  included  in  the  original  territory  granted 
to  Charlestown  in  1633  by  the  General  Court.  After  certain  grants  by  the  General 
Court  in  1640  the  place  was  renamed  "  Charlestowne  Village."  On  October  6, 
1642,  an  act  was  passed  by  the  General  Court  incorporating  Woburn  into  a  sepa- 
rate town,  the  act  reading,  "  Charlestowne  Village  is  called  Wooburne,"  so  that 
much  of  the  present  territory  of  Winchester  was  a  part  of  Woburn  until  1850,  when 


212 


WINCHESTER,   MASSACHUSETTS 


Photographed  hy  H.  IV.  Salmon  &"  Son,  IVinchester,  England  Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 

HOUSE   IN  WINCHESTER,  ENGLAND,  WHERE  JANE  AUSTEN  LIVED   AND   DIED 

the  town  was  incorporated  under  its  present  name.  The  territory  included  in  this 
new  township  was  taken  from  Woburn,  Medford  and  West  Cambridge  (now 
Arhngton) . 

The  early  settlers  in  this  section  had  a  difhcult  time  gaining  a  foothold  in  the 
wilderness,  some  of  them  being  obliged  to  burrow  into  the  hillside  to  obtain  their 
first  shelter.  Included  within  the  limits  of  the  town  was  the  farm  of  John  Harvard, 
the  founder  of  Harvard  College. 

There  is  also  a  Winchester  in  Connecticut  and  one  in  New  Hampshire. 


WINDSOR 
MAINE,  NEW  HAMPSHIRE,  VERMONT,  MASSACHUSETTS  AND   CONNECTICUT 

WINDSOR  is  one  of  the  popular  names  for  towns  in  America  and  each  of 
the  New  England  States,  with  the  exception  of  Rhode  Island,  has  a 
place  so  called.  The  Connecticut  town  was  named  for  the  English 
Windsor  while  the  Massachusetts  town  was  named  for  this  early  settlement  in 
Connecticut,  having  been  called  Gageborough  in  honour  of  General  Gage  of  Revo- 
lutionary fame  until  the  year  1778.  The  Maine  town  was  first  called  Malta  and 
later  Gerry,  and  curiously  enough  was  named  for  the  Enghsh  town  by  a  Frenchman 


214  WINDSOR,   ME.,   N.   H.,   VT.,   MASS.   and   CONN. 

called  Anthony  Coombs,  the  reason  for  this  name,  therefore,  being  difficult  to  dis- 
cover. The  New  Hampshire  town  is  very  small,  having  also  received  its  name 
from  the  Windsor  in  Connecticut,  while  the  Vermont  town  derived  its  name  in  a 
similar  way. 

The  English  town,  from  which  all  these  places  got  their  names  either  directly 
or  indirectly,  is  a  municipal  borough  incorporated  by  Edward  IV,  situated  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  Thames.  The  ancient  name  was  Windelsora,  meaning  ''the 
winding  shore"  (or  "winding  waters  near  the  Castle").  Windsor  itseh  is  chiefly 
important  on  account  of  its  Royal  Castle  which  covers  a  tremendous  area.  It  was 
begun  by  William,  enlarged  by  his  son  Henry,  rebuilt  to  a  large  extent  by  Edward 
III  and  further  enlarged  by  many  of  the  English  monarchs  since  then.  Within 
the  Royal  Mausoleum  are  the  tombs  of  Queen  Victoria  and  Prince  Albert.  The 
place  is  usually  called  New  Windsor  to  distinguish  it  from  Old  Windsor,  which  is 
about  two  miles  away.  In  July,  1896,  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Com- 
pany of  Boston,  as  guests  of  the  late  Queen  Victoria,  were  received  very  graciously 
at  Windsor  Castle,  where  they  were  reviewed  by  the  Queen  and  a  large  coterie  of 
her  distinguished  subjects.  Nearby  is  the  well-known  Eton,  with  its  school,  situ- 
ated on  the  river  Thames. 

WOBURN,  MASSACHUSETTS 

AT  the  time  of  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  celebration  of  the 
/\  city  of  Woburn,  in  1892,  a  number  of  interchanges  of  messages  took  place 
A  \  with  the  English  Woburn  and  several  officials  of  the  latter  were  invited  to 
be  present.  During  the  exercises  Rev.  Edward  G.  Porter,  of  Lexington,  who  had 
been  a  visitor  to  the  old  Woburn,  told  of  his  trip  there,  particularly  mentioning 
Woburn  Abbey,  in  which,  however,  despite  the  name,  there  is  no  longer  any  trace 
of  a  rehgious  establishment.  It  stands  in  a  park  of  3,500  acres,  enclosed  by  a 
high  brick  wall,  twelve  miles  in  circuit,  and  the  old  fish-ponds  of  the  monks  are  now 
beautiful  sheets  of  water  enlivened  by  ducks  and  swans,  while  herds  of  deer  may  be 
seen  quietly  grazing  over  the  sloping  lawns.  The  portrait-galleries  of  this  Abbey 
are  famous  and  include  paintings  by  Titian,  Van  Dyck,  Rubens,  Rembrandt, 
Teniers,  Murillo  and  others.  Mr.  Porter  was  so  interested  in  this  fine  collection 
that,  at  his  request,  the  Duke  of  Bedford,  who  owned  Woburn  Abbey,  presented 
catalogues  of  his  collection  to  the  public  libraries  of  Woburn,  Lexington  and  Bed- 
ford, in  America.  Judge  Edward  F.  Johnson,  of  the  Massachusetts  Woburn, 
visited  the  mother  town  and  its  Abbey  in  1879.  He  was  treated  with  great  hos- 
pitaHty  by  Hon.  George  Russell,  M.P.,  and  upon  his  return  home  he  wrote  an 
account  of  his  visit  which  was  afterwards  published  in  England  and  resulted  in  a 
very  cordial  letter  from  a  member  of  the  Russell  family. 

Old  Woburn,  or  Woubourne  as  it  was  once  called,  dates  from  Saxon  times,  and 


WOBURN,   MASSACHUSETTS 


215 


From  "  Views  u)  H'oiurn,"  fi.Jier  &•  Sons,  Wohum,  England  Kindness  Judge  Edward  F.  Johnson 

WOBURN  ABBEY,  WOBURN,  ENGLAND 

The  seat  of  the  Russell  family,  which  has  taken  a  great  interest  in  Woburn,  Massachusetts. 

although  little  is  known  of  its  early  history,  it  was  chosen  for  the  site  of  an  abbey 
in  the  twelfth  century,  when  fourteen  monks  took  up  their  residence  there  and 
gave  much  attention  to  the  mill  facilities  that  were  ofifered  by  the  brooks. 
In  the  reign  of  Henry  VHI,  on  the  dissolution  of  the  monasteries,  the  Abbey 
reverted  to  the  crown.  When  this  monarch  came  to  the  throne  he  gave  the 
estate  to  John  Russell,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Bedford.  The  latter 's  successors, 
up  to  the  year  1892,  had  included  four  Earls  and  ten  Dukes.  The  famous  Woburn 
Abbey  is  now  the  seat  of  the  Duke  of  Bedford. 

Previous  to  the  introduction  of  railways,  Woburn,  Bedfordshire,  was  a  great 
center  for  stages  and  was  a  larger  and  busier  town  than  it  is  at  the  present  time. 
To-day  its  nearest  railway  station  is  known  as  Woburn  Sands,  which  is  some  three 
miles  distant  from  the  town  itself  and  about  forty  miles  from  London. 

There  are  three  places  in  England  from  which  it  was  thought  for  some  time 
that  the  Massachusetts  W^oburn  might  have  derived  its  name:  Woburn  in  Bed- 
fordshire, Woo-burn  in  Bucks  County  and  0-burn  in  Dorset,  all  three  spellings 
having  been  used  by  the  earliest  settlers  of  the  Massachusetts  town.  It  is  rather 
remarkable,  as  Mr.  Porter  says,  "that  not  one  of  the  first  sixty  towns  in  the  colony 
received  an  Indian  name,  and  only  one  or  two  were  honored  with  Scripture  names, 


2l6 


WOBURN,  MASSACHUSETTS 


From  "  Viezcs  of  JVohurn,'"  Fisher  ^  So}is,  JVohurn,  Eup_i.ind  Kiiuhi^^sj  Judge  Edward  F,  Johnson 

TOWN   HALL   AND   GEORGE   STREET,   WOBURN,   ENGLAND 

although  the  Puritan  element  was  then  so  strong."  It  is  also  an  interesting  fact 
that  no  other  town  in  America  bears  the  name  of  Woburn,  so  far  as  we  can  learn. 
There  is  no  contemporary  record  which  explains  the  naming  of  our  Woburn, 
but  it  is  now  known  definitely  that  it  derived  its  name  from  Woburn,  Bedfordshire, 
and  was  so  named  by  Captain  Edward  Johnson,  the  "father"  of  the  town,  in  honour 
of  his  friend,  Major-Gen.  Robert  Sedgwick,  who  was  born  in  the  Bedfordshire 
town.  Sedgwick  came  to  this  country  in  1635,  was  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in 
Charlestown  and  commander  for  several  years  of  the  Ancient  and  Honorable 
Artillery  Company,  of  which  both  he  and  Johnson  were  charter  members.  Sedg- 
wick was  also  at  one  time  commander  of  the  Castle.  He  was  a  neighbor  of  John- 
son's in  Charlestown,  and  in  his  famous  book  entitled  "Wonder-working  Providence 
of  Sion's  Saviour  in  New  England"  Johnson  refers  to  Sedgwick  in  eulogistic  terms, 
calling  him  "stout  and  active  in  all  feats  of  war,  nurst  up  in  Londons  Artillery 
garden,  and  furthered  with  fifteen  years  experience  in  N.  E.  exact  theory,  besides 
the  help  of  a  very  good  head-piece."  In  his  first  mention  of  Sedgwick  in  the 
Woburn  Town  Records,  Johnson  calls  him  "Noble  Captain  Sedgwick;"  and 
Sedgwick's  part  in  the  work  of  exploring  the  land  for  the  settlement  of  the  town, 
and  the  influential  position  he  held  in  deciding  upon  its  present  site,  are  also  set 
forth  by  Johnson  in  the  first  volume  of  the  Woburn  Records.  Sedgwick,  however, 
never  lived  in  Woburn  and  apparently  never  intended  to.     Johnson  was  its  first 


WOBURN,   MASSACHUSETTS  217 

town  clerk,  the  chairman  of  its  first  Board  of  Selectmen  and  the  first  deputy  from 
Woburn  to  the  General  Court,  and  his  leadership  and  influence  were  such  in  all 
matters  relating  to  the  organization  and  government  of  the  new  town  that  he  would 
naturally  have  had  the  say  as  to  its  name.  In  recognition  of  the  nativity  of  his 
distinguished  friend,  he  chose  the  name  of  Woburn;  and,  at  the  General  Court 
holden  in  Boston  September  27  (October  7,  n.s.),  1642,  it  was  ordered 
"That  Charlestowne  Village  is  called  Wooborne." 

It  may  be  interesting  to  mention  that  Charles  Goodyear,  the  inventor  of  the 
process  of  vulcanizing  India  rubber,  lived  in  our  Woburn  as  early  as  1835  in  a  house 
now  standing,  in  that  part  of  Woburn  called  Montvale;  he  was  at  that  time  poor 
and  unknown,  and  it  was  while  warming  himself  one  cold  night  in  the  village  store 
that  his  great  idea  occurred  to  him.  In  Woburn  also  was  born  Benjamin  Thomp- 
son, afterwards  made  Count  Rumford,  who  became  a  famous  philosopher  and 
scientist,  known  throughout  Europe.  John  Fiske,  the  historian,  in  his  History  of 
the  United  States,  says  that  Rumford  was  the  greatest  scientist  America  has  pro- 
duced, and  it  is  as  a  scientist  that  he  is  honoured  in  his  native  town.  In  1784,  he 
was  knighted  by  the  King  of  England,  and  in  1791  was  created  a  Count  of  the 
Holy  Roman  Empire  by  the  Elector  of  Bavaria.  He  chose  the  title  of  Rumford  in 
honour  of  Rumford,  now  Concord,  New  Hampshire,  with  which  town  his  wife's 
family  was  prominently  identified  in  the  days  of  the  early  settlement.  Count 
Rumford  was  founder,  with  a  large  endowment,  of  the  Rumford  Medal  of  the 
American  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  and  of  the  Rumford  Professorship  in 
Harvard  College.  In  an  article  pubhshed  in  the  Youth's  Companion,  August  26, 
1920,  the  late  President  Dr.  Maclaurin  of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology gives  an  interesting  account  of  some  of  Rumford 's  inventions  and  experi- 
ments— "experiments  that  set  the  scientific  world  thinking  and  working  in  the 
right  direction." 

A  statue  of  Rumford  was  erected  on  the  lawn  of  the  Woburn  Public  Library  in 
1900,  the  inscription  on  the  pedestal,  prepared  by  President  Charles  W.  Eliot  of 
Harvard  College,  reading  in  part: — 

THE    EARLIEST 

SCIENTIFIC   PHILANTHROPIST 

HE   PROVED   THAT  HEAT   IS    MOTION 

AND   HAD   A    GLIMPSE 

OF   THE    GREAT   DOCTRINE 

KNOWN    LATER   AS 

THE   CONSERVATION   OF    ENERGY 

The  house  in  which  Rumford  was  born  is  still  standing  in  North  Woburn  and 
is  owned  and  maintained  as  a  museum  of  local  antiquities  by  the  Rumford  Histori- 
cal Association,  organized  and  incorporated  in  1877  for  that  purpose. 

In  North  Woburn  there  is  a  statue  of  Loammi  Baldwin,  a  contemporary  and 


2i8  WOBURN,   MASSACHUSETTS 

lifelono-  friend  of  Rumford.  The  inscription  states  briefly  his  career,  mentioning 
also  the  fact  that  he  was  one  of  the  proprietors  and  a  principal  constructor  of  the 
Middlesex  Canal,  the  first  sheriff  of  Middlesex  County,  and  then  recording  that 
he  was 

DISSEMINATOR   OF   THE   APPLE 

IN  HONOR   OF   HIM   CALLED 

THE    BALDWIN 

^VHICH   PROCEEDED   FROM   A   TREE 

ORIGINALLY   GROWING   WILD 

ABOUT   TWO   MILES   NORTH 

OF   THIS    MONUMENT 

The  Rumford  Historical  Association  erected  a  monument  some  years  ago  near 
Chestnut  Street  (formerly  Butters  Row)  in  that  part  of  old  Woburn  now  Wilming- 
ton, Massachusetts,  to  mark  the  site  of  this  original  Baldwin  apple  tree. 

It  may  be  interesting  also  to  mention  that  ancestors  of  Presidents  Pierce,  Har- 
rison and  Cleveland  are  buried  in  the  old  cemetery  on  Park  Street  in  Woburn, 
while  North  Woburn  has  the  distinction  not  only  of  being  the  birthplace  of  Count 
Rumford  and  of  Col.  Loammi  Baldwin,  but  is  also  proud  of  the  fact  that  it  is  the 
home  of  Grover  Cleveland's  first  American  ancesto-rs. 

In  its  Library  building,  Woburn  possesses  one  of  Richardson's  masterpieces  of 
architecture  and  on  the  walls  of  the  reading-room  is  a  collection  of  views  of  Woburn 
Abbey. 

The  citizens  of  Woburn  still  take  a  great  interest  in  the  mother  town,  and  several 
of  them  have  visited  there  in  recent  years. 


YORK,  MAINE 

YORK,  Maine,  may  well  be  proud  of  the  source  from  which  she  received  her 
name,  for  that  ancient  cathedral  city  in  Yorkshire  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ouse,  with  its  quaint  and  narrow  streets,  is  most  attractive  and  appeals 
to  people  of  almost  every  taste.  One  of  the  lanes  is  called  the  Shambles  and  it 
is  so  narrow  that  neighbors  on  opposite  sides  can  shake  hands  from  the  upper  floors; 
there  is  another  street  in  the  city  called  Whipmawhopmagate,  so  named  because 
it  was  the  boundary  for  the  public  whipping  of  delinquents  at  the  cart  tail,  a  prac- 
tice used  even  on  women  at  one  time.  According  to  legendary  history,  York  was 
founded  about  looo  B.C.  by  a  Northumbrian  king  who  christened  it  "Ebauricus." 
One  thousand  years  later,  authentic  history  records  this  city  as  being  in  the  hands 
of  the  conquering  Romans,  who  called  it  "Eboracum."  Its  present  name  of 
York  is  thought  to  be  a  possible  contraction  of  the  name  "Jorvick,"  which  was 
given  to  it  during  Danish  occupancy.  With  the  second  campaign  of  Agricola  in 
79  A.D.,  the  history  of  York  is  clearly  defined  and  soon  afterwards  we  learn  that  the 


YORK,   MAINE 


221 


Emperor  Hadrian  here  com- 
pleted the  famous  chain  of  forts 
known  as  the  "  Pict  Wall,"  which 
almost  surrounds  the  city  and 
provides  a  delightful  walk. 
Examples  of  their  ancient  build- 
ings also  exist.  Constantine  the 
Great  was  proclaimed  Emperor 
in  306  by  the  Roman  Legion 
then  stationed  there.  There, 
also,  was  held  the  great  slave 
market  where  many  a  maid  and 
lad  were  sold  in  the  Roman  days 
to  be  conveyed  to  Rome. 

In  mediaeval  days,  the  place 
became  the  scene  of  struggles 
between  Britons,  Saxons  and 
Danes.  There  is  a  tradition  that 
the  famous  King  Arthur,  after 
defeating  ninety  thousand 
Saxons  on  Baden  hills,  took  up 
his  residence  in  York  and  with 
the  chivalrous  knights  and  fair 
ladies  of  his  Court  celebrated 
the  first  Christmas  festival  ever 
held  in  England.  In  these  days 
York  was  surrounded  by  deep 
forests  and  no  one  dared  leave 
the  city  without  an  armed  guard  on  account  of  the  bandits  and  robbers  who 
infested  the  outlying  regions.  In  i486,  Henry  VII  visited  York  and  the  citizens, 
to  quote  the  records  on  this  occasion,  "drank  the  city  dry."  To  Americans,  York 
will  have  another  special  interest,  for  in  the  Fulford  Cemetery  lie  many  of  our 
brave  boys,  including  some  from  our  York,  who  died  in  the  EngUsh  city  during 
the  Great  War. 

York  Minster  is  one  of  the  most  majestic  cathedrals  in  the  world  and  is  enriched 
by  innumerable  historic  associations.  After  having  passed  through  the  changes 
and  additions  of  eight  and  a  half  centuries  and  the  many  sanguinary  and  thrilling 
scenes  enacted  at  its  feet,  it  was  reconsecrated  in  1472.  The  magnificent  windows 
of  medieval  glass,  the  stone  carvings  and  tracery,  and  the  famous  bell  called  "Big 
Tom,"  which  tolls  forth  the  hours  to  the  passing  generations,  are  features  of  this 
Cathedral. 


From  a  photograph 

THE   SHAMBLES, 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes-kohertson,  Esq. 

YORK,  ENGLAND 


This  street  is  so  narrow  that  neighbors  on  opposite  sides  can 
shake  hands  from  the  upper  floors. 


Photographed  by  Joseph  Duncan  and  M.  A.  C.  Le:vis,  York,  England 

CITY   WALLS,  YORK,  ENGLAND, 
part  of  the  ancient  defences  of  the  city,  upon  which  one  can  walk  for  miles 


Kindness  Ian  Forbes-Robertson,  Esq. 


From  "  The  Beginnings  of  Colonial  Maine,"  by  Henry  S.  Burrage,  D.D.,  Historian  of 

ST.  BUDEAUX  CHURCH,  NEAR  TLYMOUTH,  ENGLAND,  IN  WHICH  IS  THE  MEMORIAL  TO 

SIR   FERDINANDO   GORGES 

Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  took  a  great  interest  in  the  early  colonization  of  New  England  and  particularly  of 
the  territory  now  included  in  Maine.  He  was  interested  in  the  voyages  of  Cantain  Waymouth  and  the 
Popham  colonists  to  Bath;  he  was  given  the  title  of  "Governor  of  New  England,"  received  a  royal  charter 
and  changed  the  name  of  the'territory  near  the  present  York,  Maine,  from  Agamenticus  to  Gorgeana.  The 
name  York  was  given  later,  in  1652. 


YORK,   MAINE  223 

In  York,  the  State  of  Maine  possesses  the  first  chartered  city  of  America,  and 
Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  its  founder,  has  been  called  "the  Father  of  American  Coloni- 
zation." Of  his  thus  honouring  the  Httle  hamlet  of  Agamenticus  at  the  base  of  the 
mountain  bearing  this  same  Indian  name,  Bancroft  says,  "She  became  a  chartered 
borough,  and  Sir  Ferdinando,  like  another  Romulus,  resolved  to  perpetuate  his 
name,  and  under  the  name  of  'Gorgeana'  the  land  around  York  became  as  good  a 
city  as  seals  and  parchment,  a  Mayor  and  Aldermen,  a  Chancery  Court,  Courtleet, 
Sargeants  and  white  rods  can  make  of  a  town  of  300  inhabitants."  Sir  Ferdinando 
opened  his  grand  and  imposing  Charter,  creating  Gorgeana  a  city  of  twenty-one 
square  miles,  by  saying,  "Whereas  his  Majesty,  King  of  England,  hath  created  me 
Absolute  Lord  of  ye  Province  of  Mayne," — then  he  proceeds  to  confer  on  his  be- 
loved city,  which  he  idealized  with  promise  of  future  glory,  a  chartered  form  of 
government,  nobly  planned,  which  covered  many  feet  of  parchment.  An  anony- 
mous poet  refers  to  the  founding  of  this  First  City  in  America  in  the  following 
lines : — 

"For  hither  came  a  knightly  train 

From  o'er  the  sea  with  gorgeous  court; 
The  mayors  gowned  in  robes  of  state, 
Held  brilliant  tourney  on  the  plain. 
And  massive  ships  within  the  port 

Discharged  their  load  of  richest  freight. 
Then  when  at  night  the  sun  went  down 

Behind  the  western  hill  and  tree, 
The  bowls  were  filled, — this  toast  they  crown, 
'Long  live  the  City  by  the  Sea!'" 

This  city  by  the  sea,  the  favored  namesake  of  Gorges  and  later  of  old  York, 
fell  heir  to  the  tragic  fortunes  of  both  its  founder  and  the  elder  city,  although  Thomas 
Gorges,  coming  here  as  Deputy  Governor  for  his  uncle  Sir  Ferdinando,  strove  most 
faithfully  to  carry  out  the  constructive  plans  of  his  relative.  The  two  Gorges  made 
most  of  their  plans  from  Bristol,  England,  although  the  memorial  to  Thomas  Gorges 
is  in  Heavitree  Church,  near  Exeter,  and  the  one  to  Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  is  in  St. 
Budeaux  Church,  near  Plymouth.  With  the  fall  of  King  Charles,  involving  the 
elder  Gorges,  a  staunch  royalist,  in  financial  ruin  and  imprisonment,. the  struggling 
city  of  Gorgeana  was  left  without  head  or  support  from  the  adverse  Cromwelhan 
rule.  Its  inhabitants  found  their  lands  and  possessions  tossed  back  and  forth  for 
the  next  forty  years,  while  they  defended  themselves,  unaided,  from  their  garrison 
houses  against  the  treacherous  Indians.  One  of  these  garrison  houses,  built  in 
1645,  is  still  standing  in  perfect  condition  just  above  the  old  swinging  bridge  on 
the  bank  of  York  River. 

In  1652,  Massachusetts  having  succeeded  for  the  time  being  in  her  claim  upon 
Maine  territory,  Gorgeana  was  reorganized  into  the  town  of  York,  as  the  shire 
town  of  Yorkshire  County.     In  1623,  Christopher  Levett,  who  was  born  in  York, 


2  24 


YORK,   MAINE 


#( 


From  "  The  Beginnings  of  Colonial  Maine"  by  Henry  S.  Burrage,  D.D.,  Historian  of  Maine 


CHURCH  AT  LONG  ASHTON,  ENGLAND,  IN  WHICH  SIR  FERDINANDO  GORGES  WAS 

BURIED 


England,  in  1576,  had  bestowed  this  same  name  of  York  on  the  territory  then 
called  by  the  curious  name  of  "Quack,"  situated  on  the  western  shores  of  Casco 
Bay,  off  Portland.  Levett  explored  the  Maine  coast,  returning  in  the  following 
year.  He  was  in  Salem  when  John  Endicott  came  there  and  welcomed  him  to  these 
shores.  He  sold  his  interests  in  Maine  and  died  on  the  homeward  voyage.  His 
father,  Percival  Levett,  was  City  Chamberlain  of  York,  England,  in  1584  and  sheriff 
in  1597-98.  The  county  jail  in  York,  built  in  1653,  is  still  standing  and  is  now 
put  to  beneficent  use  by  the  York  Historical  Society,  which  maintains  it  as  a  museum 
of  local  antiquities. 

York's  crowning  tragedy,  however,  befell  in  January,  1692,  when  a  force  of 
Indians  gathered  under  the  darkness  of  a  winter's  night  on  the  snowy  slope  of  Mt. 
Agamenticus,  overlooking  the  sleeping  town,  and  in  the  grey  of  the  morning  pounced 
upon  the  unwarned  settlement,  ruthlessly  tomahawking  family  after  family  until 
over  half  the  inhabitants  were  thus  cruelly  massacred.  The  feeble  remnant  still 
refused  to  desert  the  beloved  locality,  and  struggled  on,  later  becoming  a  prosperous 
fishing  and  farming  community. 

Rev.  Shubael  Dummer,  who  organized  the  first  Congregational  church  in  York 
in  1662,  was  a  graduate  of  Harvard  College  in  1656.  As  late  as  the  year  1769  we 
find  a  curious  regulation  among  the  church  records  that  "singing  was  permitted  to 


YORK,  MAINE  225 

the  lower  floor,  if  persons  occupying  the  designated  pews  fit  them  up  at  their  own 
expense." 

Of  recent  years,  York,  ]Maine,  has  become  one  of  the  most  fashionable  and 
attractive  summer  resorts  of  our  entire  New  England  coast. 


CROSSED  SWORDS  OF  COLONEL  WILLIAM  PRESCOTT  AND  CAPTAIN  JOHN  LINZEE 

mounted  on  a  tablet  in  the  library  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society.  Colonel  Prescott  was  a  leader 
of  the  .American  troops  at  Bunker  Hill  while  Captain  Linzee  commanded  the  British  sloop-of-war  "Falcon" 
which  acted  against  the  Americans  during  this  famous  battle.  By  a  romantic  coincidence  these  swords 
came  into  the  possession  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  through  the  will  of  William  Hickling 
Prescott,  the  celebrated  historian,  grandson  of  Colonel  Prescott,  who  married  Susan  Amory,  a  grand- 
daughter of  Captain  Linzee.  The  international  fame  of  these  weapons  has  been  recorded  by  Thackeray 
in  "The  Virginians."  The  occasion  of  the  presentation  of  the  swords  to  the  Historical  Society  brought 
forth  from  Rev.  Nathaniel  Langdon  Frothingham,  D.D.,  a  poem  entitled  "The  Crossed  Swords"  which 
for  many  years  appeared  in  American  school  books.  To  the  people  of  Massachusetts  a  further  interest 
attaches  to  the  history  of  these  swords  as  a  granddaughter  of  William  Hickling  Prescott  became  the  wife 
of  Roger  Wolcott,  late  Governor  of  this  Commonwealth. 


In  concluding  this  account  of  the  ties  which  exist  between  New  England  and 
Old  England,  Ireland  and  Scotland,  it  is,  perhaps,  fitting  to  recall,  in  view  of  recent 
world  events,  the  vision  of  Alfred  Tennyson  who,  in  1852,  expressed  what  he  hoped 
America's  part  would  be  if  England  were  ever  called  upon  to  fight  a  "tyrant's" 
power.  Little  did  he  then  know  how  his  hope  was  to  be  fulfilled  after  a  lapse  of 
sixty-five  years.     This  was  the  noble  feeling  to  which  he  then  gave  utterance: — 

"Gigantic  daughter  of  the  West, 

We  drink  to  thee  across  the  flood, 
W^e  know  thee  most,  we  love  thee  best, 

For  art  thou  not  of  English  blood? 
Should  War's  mad  blast  again  be  blown, 

Permit  not  thou  the  tyrant's  power 
To  fight  thv  mother  here  alone. 

But  let  thy  broadsides  roar  with  ours. 
Hands  all  around! 

God  the  tyrant's  cause  confound; 
To  our  great  kinsmen  in  the  West 

And  the  great  cause  of  freedom,  round  and  round." 

THE   END 


ERRATA   IN   PART   I 


Page  t8, 

Page  42, 

Page  66, 

Page  93, 

Page  94, 

Page  95' 

Page  108, 

Page  145, 

Page  194, 

Page  200, 


ine  I.     For  "first"  read  "second." 

ast  line.     For  "Whittier"  read  "Emerson." 

ine  19.     Omit  "by  Punch." 

ine  31.     For  "grandfather"  read  "father." 

ine  I.     For  "right"  read  "left." 

ine  3.     "  Francis  Rotch  "  not  "  Francis  Russell "  launched  the  first  vessel  in  Dartmouth. 

ine  4.     For  "  then  "  read  "  later." 

ine  I.     Omit  "Jr."  after  "John  Winthrop." 

ine  32.     For  "Bourne"  read  "Sandwich"  Public  Library. 

ine  I.     Read  "The  Earl  of  Sandwich,  who  died  in  1792,  derived  his  title  from  Sandwich, 
England;   .    .    .    ." 


We  have  had  a  report  from  Dorchester,  England,  that  the  Roman  pavement  mentioned  on 
page  116  was  found  in  All  Saints  Glebe  land,  at  the  rebuilding  of  certain  cottages  and  new  road- 
making,  although  the  tablet  quoted  on  page  118  gives  another  version  of  the  finding  of  this  relic. 


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